StockyMcStock

god damn that's pretty phucking good. i really didn't think the .82 rear would get that sort of juice happening without lots of boost. do you have a big arse external gate or just something normal out of interest? as for pics of mine dave, i'll get some when the manifold has been faced and leak tested, then i can bolt the turbo on and take some happy snaps. still gotta get that goddam M90 drive snout shortened too, and a billet drive pulley machined up more $$$

just replace the clutch with a new plate, if it's been daily driven for 1 1/2 years i'd say it's not doing too badly.

from a few guys who have found out the hard way, the RB30 crank reportedly has major harmonic issues at 7500rpm. MAJOR issues. having said that, i'd just rev it straight through that pissy little harmonic, it'll be gone quicker than you think.

370cc or thereabouts.

shooting for 320rwkw i'd go anything above 600cc injectors. the standard ones obviously won't cut it.

wait till i post some pics with the M90 mounted on the engine as well

you certainly could low mount it, but it'd need a custom manifold. i have a GT40 1.34 rear and this is how big it is: as you can see there's not a lot of chance of putting that anywhere near a standard manifold. it would be reasonably easy to do a low-mount tubular manifold and keep it so that the returning cooler pipe still made it over the top however. the GT40 will make the power more easily (less boost) but your bottom-end power might suffer a bit. having said that, with good cams and good tuning there's no reason an RB30DET can't have brilliant off-boost response. it would build boost pretty quickly no matter what turbo is on it IMHO (within reason - GT60 GTFO) the 35/40 1.06 rear would be a brilliant match, you'd have to push it pretty hard to get 320rwkw though.

ivan tighe engineering - it's in the phone book. the turbo may be capable of producing xx amount of boost, but it simply runs out of airflow. if you want 320rwkw i'd go a GT35/40 1.06 rear or better still, a GT40 1.00 rear or so.

i'd change that turbo a long time before i changed the cams. if you want to save some money, get a set of GTR cams and have the profiles changed to suit the hydraulic followers, Tighe cams up here in QLD can do that for you faily cheaply.

i'd give you $500 for it, given the price of a new hand controller.

with results like that i'd say there are a few options: 1) your guage is stuffed 2) your cam timing is extremely out 3) your valves are not seating. at all. 4) you forgot to install piston rings. it should be up about 150 or so for most petrol engines.

yeah i think i should buy an adjustable exhaust gear, or get one made up by my lathe man. would be a good investment when i go for the power tune i think.

so did i, but only because i had easy access to two from a few RB30 blocks i had lying around when i get my manifold back off my mate, i'll bolt the plenum, turbo and manifold on and post some pics up for ya.

stupid non-OEM belt setups! what did you do wrong? i'm afraid mine will be a fair whack out too, you just can't tell with any degree of accuracy. the inlet cam appears spot on, but the exhaust cam looks a little advanced on mine, doesn't line up perfectly with the spot on the timing backing plate. might be a good idea to get an adjustable gear there i reckon.....

yeah nice work, pity i can't find it. link me.

if it's a quality core, get ARE to do it. they're at brendale. if it's a cheapo core just buy a new one, it will be cheaper they do excellent work though.

that pic you posted BHDave is surprisingly good - i like it. the other one above is not quite as good, but functional i guess. the hose which goes to the rear of the plenum is the idle air bypass hose - it is necessary! it must be referenced to the piping anywhere between the AFM and the throttle body. the other one is a PCV reference line to the intake pipe (so it only sees vacuum, never boost!) and is removable if you're fitting a catch can.

it could certainly be done, but there is a lot to think about before you start. i'd use an Eaton M90 blower, don't worry about dropping the compression. fit large duration camshafts to get the head breathing better and drop your boost levels. then there's the hard parts: mounting and driving the blower. it's all custom work, and you either do it yourself or get a workshop to do it ($$$) properly. use a cooler, it can't hurt. use a bypass valve, not a BOV. if you're serious about doing it i can explain what this is to you, but you don't sound very serious about it at the moment. it's a much bigger job than you think.

a 440cc injector flows 440 cubic centimeters of fuel (a cubic centimeter is 1ml) per minute as i understand it, at a certain pressure. so a 440cc injector produces 440ml of fuel at the rated fuel pressure, but i'm not sure if this is measured at 100% duty cycle (injector is open all the time) or at a pulsed cycle somewhere below that.

if you wanted to keep the standard inlet manifold you should have used a low-mount manifold. everything else is a compromise, doing weird tight bends with your inlet piping adds a lot of restriction, for example a 90 degree bend in your piping adds as much restriction to flow as 3 metres of straight pipe.......

everyone with an RB25 or 26..... have you seen how close the standard tensioner and idler pulley come on the twin cam RB's? it's pretty much exactly what you'd get if you used the two pre-drilled tensioner locations on the RB30 block, on either side of the welsh plug there. as far as being worried about the belt touching because it's too close together, that is pretty much a non-existent danger. if it's not enough that the OEM engine uses a timing belt setup which comes that close together without problems, consider how much the slack side of the belt (inlet cam side of the belt) would have to flop to touch the reciprocal side of the belt moving the opposite direction. a properly tensioned cam belt simply cannot move that much, even under extreme loads (giant cams on rapid RPM changes). if i had a series 2 block to start with, i would have used the two lower tensioner locations for simplicity and cost reasons. as it was i had to do what the pictures show above, which is quite a good setup as far as i can determine.

comes out at about 550 if i did my maths correctly

if you don't have the flat machined surface there you will have to do this: which is really not a big deal at all, considering you've either bought the drill bit and tap yourself already, or you're getting a machine shop to do it. the main things to get on the block are the provisions for the oil and water lines, which are a bastard to tap yourself.

i can vouch for what cubes said

what sort of strength is in those n/a R34 boxes? presumably similar to the RB20DET box i would imagine? p.s. any chance you're willing to do the wiring for an RB25/30 into VL while you're up in brisbane? was reading some of your posts on PF and saw you did this kind of stuff regularly that's all.