StockyMcStock

first of all, try a good boost controller (even a pneumatic pressure-relief valve would do) to eliminate all wastegate creep. if you still find the lag too bad, go a size down on the exhaust housing. perhaps even two sizes down.

is the blower a Vortech? which model? V8 with centrifugal blower is always fun, no matter what car it's in.

i've seen them, they look similar to the standard ones can't see them being a whole lot better in terms of performance? anything that just adds the cylinder outlets into a single log one by one is not really going to be that great IMHO, not compared to individual runners with a collector right at the turbo. a spacer plate will definately be needed, yes.

Just wondering, has anyone pushed an RB30DET hard with a standard exhaust manifold from an RB20? I *think* i can get a GT35/40 1.06 rear on the thing without hitting the strut tower (VL bogandore) but am a bit worried that it will be horribly restrictive. Porting the heck out of it might help though, so has anyone done it and achieved good results? external gate will be going off the turbine housing. p.s. looking for a maximum of 300rwkw at the absolute most.

which manifolds were they? can you throw some pics up of them?

yeah they are locking, i wonder why there's a return spring on the RB30 tensioners, they're the same as the 25 ones i'm 99% sure? anyway i'm using two RB30 tensioners on mine and a friend's 25/30 doesn't use return springs either. p.s. where do you get new studs for them from? they have two different threads on each end :confused: which is weird, i imagine they'd have to come from nissan..... i shudder to think of the price

well that's sorted - also the front-on picture given in the guide which shows the measurements where the tensioner hole needs to be drilled are spot on cubes, i put mine there and it will tension perfectly once i've tapped the hole. did anyone use return springs on their two tensioners?

on page 8 of the guide above the pictures it sort of implies that the "thinner" belt of 25mm is not quite as good as the 30mm belt. i dunno just reads to me like it was suggesting that the 94407 is 30mm

yep i'd say the DIY guide is a bit misleading in that regard, all the RB series timing belts are 25.4mm i would suggest. a 30mm belt would NOT fit on any of the drive cogs, which are just barely the width of the belt. if the belt is enough for a 1.8L quad cam twin turbo it should be good enough for me, using standard cams and springs in addition keeps the loads down on the belt. i have an R33 DE head - i believe the cams and springs are the same as the DET, only difference is injectors.

interesting - the RB30 crankshaft drive cog for the cam belt is 25.4mm wide, the same as the RB30 timing belt and the belt i just bought from the audi. the RB25 cam gears are 30mm wide, as are the RB30. i assume this is to allow for a bit of belt movement as there is no lip to guide it on to these. are you guys using RB25 harmonic balancers and timing belt drive cogs, or are you using RB30 drive cogs? the 25 ones could be wider? with my RB30 drive cog there is no way i could get a 30mm timing belt on there, that's all.

interesting piece of trivia: the 152-tooth Dayco 94407 timing belt is the same as that used on the Audi (Passat?) 1.8 litre twin turbo engines in their newer model cars. it is, however, much more expensive to buy it from an Audi dealer, trust me! Cubes i have NFI what that 5hit means. also: the 94407 is 25mm wide, but in the DIYrb30DET guide it says that it is 30mm wide. can anyone confirm that theirs is 30mm?

through a powerglide? 97 is a fair bit nonetheless - i'd put it down to dyno differences mostly. who cares what the number is so long as it goes very very fast, very very quickly.

carefully remove the surface rust with light grade sandpaper - try and mimic the finish of the honing already there. an oil stone would be best if you can get it, just take the very surface of it off. then coat the bores with oil. lots of oil. engine assembly lube would be better, it's a bit thicker and won't fall off the surface as easily. put the sump on and tape over the top face to keep air out, it won't rust.

my bad - didn't read your post correctly. you are right about that, they are exactly the same mechanically

you sure? the coilpacks on a S1 have an external ignitor so the loom must be different......

bore number 4 has rust on it and he painted over the nice brass welch plugs, as if you would!

Cubes: free running as in if the timing belt snaps, none of the valves will hit the pistons..... lol nice essay but you can spin the crank with all pistons on by hand, but i haven't drilled the new tensioner or torqued the cams down properly yet so i'm not sure about the whole thing. cams are pretty easy to spin though, wish they were bigger

If anyone was wondering - i just assembled my 30DET and it was definately free running, which is good to know. standard R33 head (DE cams) standard nissan .047' head gasket standard RB30E pistons (ACL) zero deck height at TDC geez it looks nice when it's all together - looks like a factory engine.

jesus! or you could just lever it off with a few large screwdrivers and lots of WD-40! i've had four off and have never had a problem doing it this way.

i'll post up some dyno sheets in about 6 months when my twincharged (blower + turbo) RB25/30 is built, should be good for a laugh.

twincharge - 5psi of boost from a roots blower as soon as your foot hits the floor goes a long way to spooling a big turbo earlier.

oddly enough, i just removed an RB30 series 2 engine (having all the required oil and water galleries already tapped, just blocked with bolts) from my daily driver. it spun a bearing on number 2 and the crank will need linishing, but apart from that it's all good. i also happen to work for a freight company, so i can obtain a quote for me to ship it to the states if you would like? which city are you in? i would ship the thing for you for the cost of shipping + $50 AUD if you're interested. the only thing i need off the engine is the timing belt tensioner (for my RB30DET) but they are the same as the RB25 idlers which you have easy access to. pm me if you're interested, cheers.

maybe - yeah. can't see why not. just use a 26 head gasket.

yep that would make sense - my VCT is not going to be hooked up anyway and the car will NEVER see sustained high RPM work - street driver only. i figure after 5 seconds of > 4000 rpm the car will be going quite fast anyway.....

jesus, i just found what you're talking about on my R33 head. didn't even realise what it was! what do i do with it, must it be returned to the sump somehow or can i get away with just closing it up? :confused: