StockyMcStock

bah come on, yours would be heaps quicker from the info i've seen posted?

175rwkw on 9psi isn't that bad. remember peak power is measured by the graph, and that peak power event takes place at 9psi for you.

well i feel dumber after having read all of the posts since mine. i'll stick with my idea until i hear something better.

that's interesting, because i'm just an internet mechanic and i was able to figure it out pretty easily.

just throwing ideas out there: - 20psi of exhaust back pressure at full boost in your GTR (guesstimate) - exhaust wheel dies, jams against turbine housing - exhaust back pressure spikes horribly because total exhaust flow from those 3 cylinders just took a huge dive - big back pressure = big ping, massively hot exhaust residuals left in combustion chamber on next compression stroke causes pre-ignition - 3 cylinders get blowby, ring damage etc i can't really think of another reason that the rings and pistons would be damaged if a turbo let go in a GTR. it would be very improbable that ceramic dust/chips/fragments would somehow make their way back into the combustion chamber through the exhaust runners and valves. especially for it to happen equally on all 3 cylinders.

totally true, except the supercharger doesn't make enough boost (straight away) to open the gate. it only makes 5psi on its own, with no positive inlet pressure. if i took the gate's pressure feed from the turbo-blower connecting pipe, it would likely cause plenum pressure to go up to around 16psi, which i don't want. this is because the blower multiplies the pressure, not adds. so the pressure differential stays the same at, say, 1.4x, so you might only get 5psi out of the blower with no turbo hooked up. connect the turbo and pressurise the inlet, and the final figures might be something like 7psi from the blower and 2psi in the blower-turbo connecting pipe. if i had to guess (haven't measured it yet), i would say that there is only 2-3psi of pressure in the connecting pipe at full boost. so there is certainly a *bit* left in the old GT40

yeah VCT is disabled - but the cam timing is probably out due to the fact that it's a completely non-standard cam belt setup. i basically aligned the notches as best i could by eye, which wasn't very good at all. as you can see the tensioners aren't in the "normal" place for an RB30DET, because i started with a series 1 block. i like my setup better though, the belts have less length between tension points so there's (theoretically) less flap in them. turbo's wastegate is reading boost from before the intercooler, but this doesn't really matter. not much would change if i referenced it to the plenum, or after the intercooler. it might run 1-2psi more (pressure rise equal to pressure differential across the cooler) but that's it. the real magic is happening at the 2nd wastegate which is the blower bypass. i really wish i had a dyno vid to show you guys, not because it looked cool but because of the noise it made. just insane.

nup - it's perfect just as it is. the boost isn't important, it's the airflow that it's providing. it REALLY doesn't need any more bottom-end torque that's for sure. full boost (on the street) is a little later than i was expecting, simply because it goes through the gears so quickly. there's just no time. it mashes first gear and you can destroy 2nd if you really want to . yet to drive it on a cold night it needs to have the cam timing checked to see why the power is dropping off past 5200. hopefully it's just the timing and not something else. pretty f**king happy with it at the moment that's for sure. name me any other RB30 engine with that response, power delivery and peak power on such little boost. i can't think of any.

i got my heap of junk dynoed for a bit today, just a quick check to make sure it was OK. fixed the AFR's back to 12:1 and didn't play with timing much at all. total of 1.5 hours on the dyno, 225rwkw at 9psi. graph and stuff can be seen here --> http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=104332

3ltr block ACL cast pistons, high silicone content. standard bore size, ACL race series rings. Rods – standard.. Crack tested, cryo treated, beam polished then shot peened. Bearings: Nissan mains, clevite 77 rods. R32 GTR oil pump. ARP head stud kit. R33 RB25DE head VCT disabled lightly ported exhaust side fully rebuilt, new valve guides, reseated valves etc stock cams (RB25DE) stock cam springs RB25DET 370cc injectors Cold side: JD plenum R33 RB25DE runners Relocated IAC valve to side of plenum XF throttle body Catch can Hot side: Tubular split pulse exhaust manifold 50mm HKS copy gate with merge pipes from each collector. GT40 turbo. 1.34 exhaust A/R, split pulse. 0.72 A/R compressor. 4 inch inlet. 3.5 inch dump pipe. 3 inch cat-back mandrel bent exhaust. 3 inch stainless cooler piping. Eaton M90 supercharger, custom shortened drive snout for clearance. 1.7x crank speed drive. Garrett 32mm wastegate setup as a bypass valve for the blower. 5 inch outlet pipe, necked down to 4 then 3 inch before the intercooler. Hybrid front mount cooler. R33 series 1 skyline powerFC – series 1 coils with external ignitor on firewall. Q45 AFM in the piping before the throttle body. quick preliminary tune (1.5 hours) to make sure it's all good. 225rwkw on 9psi at 5300rpm (cam timing is rooted):

i got my heap of cr@p running! it's a bit of an animal now. sounds crazy too. pictures:

dammit i wish the bastards would go the other way and do me a GT42 rear on a GT40 compressor there's just no consideration for weird engines like mine these days

i have a very thin film of oil in my pipes, it's because of the filter. don't worry about it.

it's a series 1 head if that means anything? it has like 12 big spline ridges/valleys and a half moon key - unless the key is broken somehow? i should really have a look at it but i'm lazy and the timing is right so i don't care too much. knock sensing FTW.

fark you're quick off the mark tonight! story goes that a few weeks ago i had a little oil leak from the front of the engine somewhere, took the timing cover off etc but couldn't find it. then assembled it all again and realised it was just the little blanking plate i'd made up for the extra oil drain hole leaking a bit, bolt had come loose. anyway the car seemed to lose a whole lot of power after it, so i checked the timing again and it was 10 degrees retarded. oddly, it still ran pretty well, just lost power everywhere obviously. beforehand, the CAS had been pretty much in the middle of the tracking groove, but not afterwards? my only conclusion was that i put it back in on the wrong spline somehow, even though it has a keyway which should make this impossible. anyway i re-timed it to 15 degrees and picked up about 80hp at the wheels (pants dyno) so i'm happy.

cheers gents - i'm quite happy with the way the mounts came together. i learnt a LOT about supercharger drive systems from my last effort which was a shocker to say the least. this time i have very short belt lengths and everything is extremely rigid, both of which are critical to success. i have had it running with the pipes off and it all looks top notch straight off the bat. touch wood, i won't have alignment problems. i am particularly impressed with the compound drive system, i can take all the credit for it too because it was my idea! stick welder, angle grinder and drill all the way! sounds like a big angry bee with no outlet pipe on - very noisy indeed! pumps a lot more air at idle than the little SC-14 did too. as you can see from the pics, the turbo outlet needs to do a sharp turn (bummer!) straight into the blower's inlet, which is on the rear face of the thing. the large square outlet needs to be merged into that 3 inch pipe before intercoolind and throttle body in the conventional manner. bypass gate goes on there too. issues to still be addressed include heat shielding for the manifold and blower, piping, gate setup and tuning! pity i'm broke as anything. should have a real job by the end of the year so that will help. cubes: 550cc nismo squirters here ready to go in when the time comes. more pics: concerns over the torque moment on the tensioner arm will be addressed if they become a problem with fatigue cracking etc. it's as stiff as i could imagine at the moment and i can't see it breaking anytime soon. time will tell!

check it out cubes - what do you reckon? will it work?

what an idiot. 1) put engine on TDC number 1 2) put exhaust cam in with cam gear dot lined up approximately towards where it will be when you put the rear timing cover on. torque it down. 3) do the same with inlet cam 4) fit timing belt and tension it up. how goddam hard is it? when your crank is at number 1 TDC, number 4 is there as well (i think it's number 4 anyway) so all you have to worry about is number 1 and number 4 valves hitting the pistons. visually check the lobes to see that they aren't at full extension when you install the cam. it is not a difficult concept. make him fix it.

i know a guy who is going the whipple route on his GTR engine. whether or not he gets off his ass and finishes it any time in the next 5 years is anybody's guess. the only blower to use would be the whipple 2600 or 3300 (or Opcon if you have the money) as running a centrifugal would be pretty much like running a turbo. p.s. i hope you read this tony

a simplified way of looking at it woudl be to imagine a big single turbo with an intake pipe that split into two pod filters, and merged symettrically and identically. then run a single AFM in one of the pipes. you could then theoretically run injectors twice as big and it would run okay. it would probably idle like 5hit and have terrible partial-throttle metering, but it would work with some tuning no worries.

if the car is cold your timing will be way advanced, this is normal ignition correction at idle for cold conditions. make sure it's warmed up. if you're doing it when the car is at full operating temp and still getting 35 degrees, then you're right on, it is probably something else.

for a dedicated track car, water/meth injection is a very good idea. just make sure you don't run out of the stuff halfway through a race. re-tune it with the gear set up properly, i bet you can take another 3-4 degrees of timing in the power band and run leaner mixtures without detonation. it's very useful stuff.

Nissan Infinity V8 i believe? okay so two posts and already two ideas, i bet both of them work OK though. i'll try the contact cleaner first i reckon.

So i had a good old search but couldn't find anything. I suspect that the oil from my pod filter has, over time, lightly coated the contacts/surfaces in the guts of my Q45 air flow meter, causing it to be a little more laggy and lose some top-end power by running excessively rich. Even if this is not the problem, i want to eliminate it before looking at other things as it is quite easy to do. Question is, how do i clean a Q45 AFM? Contact cleaner? Goat's milk? Any ideas would be appreciated.