saliya

They're called 'repair kit-dust' not 'cv boots' You can use universal fit boots on the round ones (from memory, front LHS inner and outer, front RHS outer, all rears). But I would use genuine - they seem to last longer. I don't have a number handy. You need a genuine boot on one of the front inners because it's a special shape. I'm pretty sure I'm looking at 'the right' empty bag, 39741-05U89 is the number on it. You can definitely get them. Call a Nissan dealer that's interested in taking your money. I think I paid about $55 delivered. Cheers, SW

Looking at mine (it sticks out about 10mm past the stock bonnet when closed, no spacers) I have no idea how you managed this. I have new Nismo mounts, proengines adapter, hi-octane sump with a few mm of clearance at the bottom. It looks like this so far: * prepreg/autoclave carbon $1350 * custom glass $880 (ADR-compliant, raised to fit with or without vents) + painting - neither of these 2 have followed-up regarding a sale. * glass/carbon layer bonnet approx $750 but I couldn't find one that didn't foul on the timing cover. * bulge $750 graft + cost of bulge (from someone who would guarantee no cracking) + painting * hilux/similar glass scoop $120 + painting + fitting * plastic stick-on scoop $30-$50 * homemade carbon scoop ~$100 + time. The ADR-compliant glass bonnet works out cheaper than grafting a glass bulge onto the original bonnet. I'm sure someone could do the grafting cheaper; but I want a no-crack-at-the-join guarantee. In the interim I have a carbon scoop on there. Fortunately it looks just like one of the stick-on ones I'm still looking for a final solution. Cheers, SW

Hey, http://web.archive.org/web/20050308220108/...om/r33specs.htm says "HKS 58mm external GT-Pro spec wastegates (x2)" There's also door #3 at 0:35 http://www.streetfire.net/video/nissan-gtr...ini_1581854.htm Cheers, SW

... and then it's not a stock car anymore. Sure, if the manufacturer offers (for example) different tyre options test it with the best of them. If you're going to permit nonstandard modification to the stock platform, why stop at tyres? Cheers, SW

Oops. Or 'upwards'. Basically, anything it touches while rolling toward the windscreen it needs to touch at half its height or less. Cheers, SW

Hi, The ball test refers to the concept of an imaginary 165mm ball that can roll from the front of the bonnet to the windscreen without being moved 'backwards' (toward the front of the car). In real terms what this means is that you cannot have a vertical step up of more than 82.5mm - half that imaginary ball, because if the step were greater then it would intersect with the upper half of the ball and it could not roll up the step without moving the centre 'backwards'. Cheers, SW

Hi, Zebra: In NSW, the RTA determines the rules for vehicle modifications (at least, where you want to register them/drive them on the public roads). According to their technical division, an engineering signatory is allowed to approve a carbon bonnet. The signatory I've spoken to is quite happy to approve a carbon bonnet. With that piece of paper, it is not illegal. Titan: Those don't look all that bad to me; all I _really_ care about is the clearance and that I don't really want any extra paths for water/crap to come in. I wouldn't mind vents if they didn't do that. Cheers, SW

So I see there are still a few people on here that have had problems with closing the bonnet on a 2630 in an R32 GTR. Even with the supports relieved and 20mm of rear-raising the timing cover still fouls on the skin of the standard bonnet. I don't particularly want to drop or rotate the whole engine if I can avoid it. I spoke with 'my' engineer and he said no problem to add a carbon bonnet to my ever-growing list provided: * it uses the original latching and hinges * it does not violate the 'other' rules e.g. 11m forward visibility and the 165mm ball test My dream bonnet is basically an exact replica of the stock bonnet with the centre part raised just a little higher so that I had timing cover clearance (10mm would be fine; 20mm great). I'd prefer something without vents as I don't really want water in there. Anyone else interested in something like this? Ideally I'd like to get 4 other members interested. Cheers, SW

No, but it should be fairly straightforward to find out. Ring insurer for quote, answer 'yes' to the bad driving history question, voila. You may or may not wish to use your real name/address. Cheers, Saliya

... so you're advocating paying $700 plus whatever machining is worth for a couple of housings? OP: You don't want to do this. Buy a complete new turbo from a place with a warranty; if the budget doesn't stretch save for a little longer. Or find someone on this forum selling a used turbo that's willing to have it professionally inspected (at your cost). Cheers, Saliya

Same hi-octane extension, but DIY. You _so_ don't want to weld an aluminium sump if you don't have experience. If not because of the welds; then just because the driveshafts /diff run through the sump. Get it a couple of mm wrong and it all goes to hell; repeatedly. IMHO, even if you do have experience Leon's TIGging will blow most people out of the water anyway. Take a look at the welds. The baffling prevents most pickup issues; the larger capacity gives you more of a thermal sink. Cheers, SW

I wouldn't do this - if you swap the bellhousing odds are the seal on the rear end of the first sandwich plate will get cracked; meaning that the box will leak from there. To fix _that_ will need the box to be pulled down and resealed from the back to the front. J'z is on the money; swap the relevant bits, drill/tap the blank bosses, and use the slave cylinder that's currently on the car. You shouldn't need to undo any bolts that you can see in your big picture Cheers, SW

Hi folks, I too am chasing a street-drivable gearbox to hold reasonable power at reasonable cost. PAR apparently make such gearsets: a similar-to-OS-Giken-1-3 set is about $4.2k a dog engagement set about $5.3k (RRPs according to PAR website) However, there seem to be lots of threads saying 'stay away from PAR' on SAU. PAR moved factories to Malaysia in 2008. They claim to have radically improved quality control since the move. They are also offering a 12-month warranty on their gearsets now. Has anyone here run a gearset made by PAR since 2008? if you don't want to post directly PM and I will summarize without your info. Hopefully people can contribute useful information without falling foul of the political correctness rule. Leave out the bits that are inapplicable. If you want to tell me to run something else or about pricing, I'm all ears (but do it via PM, not in this thread). If you're not personally running the gearset please don't post in the thread Your car: kW: 2WD/4WD: Cut: Straight/helical/combination (please list): Engagement: Synchro/dog/combination (please list): Year of manufacture: Who assembled/adjusted it: Year of installation: Who installed it: Kms on box: Type of kms (traffic, highway, track, other): Are you still using it: If you're not still using it, when did you stop: why did you stop: If you stopped using it due to failure, Was a warranty claim made (and if so, was it honoured): Your summary of the product (if you have nothing good to say, leave this blank): Cheers, Saliya

Hey, I think those loops are to allow movement as the manifolds expand/contract (the pipes are quite stiff). I replaced mine with braided lines (no looping) when I went to a big single; no problems thus far. Cheers, Saliya

Sigh. The quoted possible penalty isn't ridiculous (that is, I mean it's possible to be hit with that number). From 'Crimes (Sentencing Procedure) Act 1999 No 92' ( http://www.legislation.nsw.gov.au/viewtop/...1999+FIRST+0+N/ ): and/or 'Crimes Act 1914' as amended in 2007: ( http://www.comlaw.gov.au/ComLaw/Legislatio...A25734400097315 ) 1 penalty unit = $110 From 'Protection of the Environment Operations (Clean Air) Regulation 2010' ( http://www.legislation.nsw.gov.au/fragview...+2010+whole+0+N ): For not using a "required anti-pollution device" (e.g. a catalytic converter): Maximum penalty: 400 penalty units (in the case of a corporation) or 200 penalty units (in the case of an individual). So the maximum penalty for not having a catalytic converter is now $22k for an individual. And that's not including any other offences a person might get done for at the same time. For example, because there is no cat 'Excessive Air Impurities' probably also applies - another 200-penalty-unit-maximum fine. Sure, the numbers are very large - maybe even 'ridiculous'. I personally believe it's very unlikely that an individual car driver would get hit with the full penalty units for a first offence. But that's not to say it cannot / will not happen. Cheers, Saliya

1 power run @350rwkw before the dyno overheated. I intend to visit another dyno with a slightly-different setup sometime soon (same cat / similar exhaust). Will remeasure and repost. Cheers, SW

+1 Too-loud exhaust? Caution, possibly defect + fix-by-date, bill $100-$500 depending on what needs to be done. No cat? Probably defect + possible $11k fine + fix-by-date, bill $100-500 + $fine... Cheers, SW

Less cells = less surface area for catalyzing = bigger holes. More flow at the expense of less effective catalyzing. At some point the conversion will stop being legal. I have a metalcat cat (6" body, no idea what the in/outlets are supposed to be but probably 3.5"). I would guess it's 200cell as I don't think they had 100cell then. For what it's worth it's been under the car for a few years, been through many track days and a couple of intercooler-pipe-blew-off fireballs that destroyed the car's glasspacked mufflers. I recently pulled it off the car and while a little black, it seems to be in perfect working order. Can't ask for more than that. Cheers, Saliya

+1 for a self-contained solution. I currently use NRMA CarCom; I am 'fairly unhappy' with the unit (sometimes it simply stops working, I need to test it once per week); 'getting happier' with the service; but the monitoring costs are IMHO outrageous ($350 p.a.). I don't believe anyone offering a free monitoring service intends to do it indefinitely (or should be asked to). I think the best option is GPS + GSM/3G + battery backup + message-requiring-response; there are a few units on the market; but I want to move away from the third party involvement. If I were to double the costs of all the required hardware @ RRP and add some money for a software licence I would expect it to cost about $A300 - this is what I'd pay for a brand new unit with warranty that simply required a SIM to operate. Say $450 installed. Am I dreaming? Can / will an installer do that job for $A150 per unit? I imagine it would take a couple of hours to do properly. I would strongly recommend using one of those 365-day prepaid SIMs with auto-top-up. The data charges levied for excess on those 'low-monthly-usage' plans are usually horrendous (haven't looked at that specific Exetel; but $100/GB is not uncommon). It would only take a small software bug to initiate massive charges on such a plan. Cheers, Saliya

Up to you (the buyer) whether it's worth it. It's _very_ unlikely that the car's done 111k kms, given it's age and price. An engineered car (check; people have been known to make less-significant stuff up) means that a registered signatory has signed off on all the modifications. Make sure that it's really engineered (i.e. the cert lists all the changes and that the cert was signed by a registered signatory. Call them to check). One question that's worth asking is 'how many registerable 300kw cars can you buy for $18k?'. I would guess 'not many'. Good luck with your decision. Cheers, SW

I think you mean Area / Radius ratio Cheers, SW

+1 for having a really good look before you start it up. Cheers, SW

They all do that. It's dumb because it makes customers mad; but it's free money for them if a customer just pays up. I got jack of it with GIO last year and rang them. Told them that I did not want to do the ring around to get the price I wanted; and that if they forced me to do the ring around I would not be coming back any time soon. Turns out coverage was available, and for the exact same price as the previous year (yeah, I know, it should probably have been slightly less). Go figure. Cheers, SW

... and there's no axial load component with straight cut; there is with helical (unless you get double-helical; which is unlikely). Cheers, Saliya

I used a serck speed core in the driver's side (deleted BOVs). $300 or so. Thermostat + filter mount where battery used to be. $50 or so. Pirtek braided lines x 4 (2 block <> filter; 2 filter <> cooler) ended up using 4-5m of hose and 8 fittings. Allow another $300 or so. Figure out where you're going to put the core, drop in to your local Pirtek and ask. They will make the hoses to fit and charge you for what you use. Cheers, SW