nouveau_poor

Update on this: Was testing continuity based on the pinouts above and my multimeter was beeping normally. GTSBoy was right, the other wire 14 seems to be linked to the cars ignition. While I had the speedo out I figured I'd take the meter itself out to test the wires of the speed sensor, or at least look at its condition. Turns out, I probably found the answer to my issue since the Kakimoto speedo that the previous owner put in seems to be from a late model meter. There is no sensor that the ribbon cable connects to like it's supposed to (last photo), therefore no signal. Maybe the previous owner didnt mind the heavy steering and just wanted the increased speed reading, but I'll see to getting a proper meter. Hopefully this is the fix that finally resolves this.

Poked around a bit more in the service manual (slow day) and found this section under wire diagrams for "W-1 4WD Vehicles (RB20DET/RB26DETT equipped models)". This diagram and pinout is slightly different than the one shown in the speedometer wiring section posted previously. The one posted previously seems to correspond to the wiring diagram shown in "C-1 4WD Vehicles (RB20DET/RB26DETT equipped models)". This does explain the note about pin 15 not being in the photo, which matches the W-1 diagram below. Apparantly that circle with the squiggle in it connected to pin 13 and 14 is the vehicle speed sensor. Makes sense because you can see both of these pins connecting to circuits that trace into where the sensor is. Would it be accurate to say that one of these pins is connected to wire 53? What about the other pin connected to the VSS? If one is for wire 53, what wire is the other pin for and what does it do? I'd assume id have to check both for continuity. What is the difference between C-1 and W-1 and what does it mean? A lot of oddities today.

So I'm trying to track down the reason why my vehicle speed sensor isn't sending signal to the ECU. This all stems from my HICAS light coming on after driving for a while, and the heavier steering that comes with it. I've already ruled out or fixed the typical causes like speedometer cable issues, steering wheel alignment, and power steering fluid. I know for a fact that it works because I can test the functionality using the "simulate drive" function in the Nissan Data Scan tool So long story short, I think I've narrowed down the cause of the light: When I plug my computer into the OBD port for Nissan Data Scan use, and drive around a bit, all the readings function as they should save for one, the vehicle speed reading. It shows zero regardless of actual vehicle speed and does not move at all despite the speedometer cluster operating as it should. This leads me to believe that the speed signal is not reaching the ECU as it should. My guess is that the vehicle speed sensor in the back of the speedometer unit must be faulty. A more concerning possibility is that the speed sensor wire from the ECU to the speedometer is bad/broken. From the glance that I took of the ECU, wire 53 has not been cut/tampered with. From my understanding reading various threads, wire 53 goes into the back of the speedometer via those square plugs for the speed signal and the part of the ribbon cable/printed circuit that goes inside of the back of the speed meter assembly (early model, yellow, 1990) is the bit of cable that connects to the speed sensor. Shown in picture. Tracing the circuits that come out of this section of cable leads to the middle speedometer plug. My question is, which speedometer plug pin corresponds to wire 53 on the ECU? I'd like to test for continuity with a multimeter to verify that the wire is good before whipping the wallet out to buy and try a new speedometer cluster. Does anyone know from experience or have a different pin diagram? In the service manual, the only mention I've found of the VSS just says to check wire 53, and the pinout diagram of the speedometer cluster in the manual has no mention of the speed sensor. Shown below. Unfortunately, I can't guess based off of the green/yellow wire color on mine as the wire colors are obscured up to the plug. The picture of the back of the speedo is not of mine, and it's hard to make out which wire goes where. Just added for reference (Other note, according to the pin diagram below, there should be a wire for pin 15, but the plug in the photo shows no wire going into that slot?)

Looks like someone copied the R8s homework

Hello from a fellow American You mentioned gold coilovers, so they might be one of the HKS Hipermax IV series. Solid and quality units!

I'd agree that on a factory 32 the non-angular areas would look odd, especially the rear. But there's some kit out there with more straight edges along the ground that might be able to swing it. I wouldn't go so far as to call the R35 Nismo an abomination haha The 50th anniversary edition with that white skidmark down it's center maybe!

Hey all, I'm in the market for a driver's side glass assembly to replace my current one. It's a 1990 R32 GTR and it has the common door window scratches from the window stabilizer foam things turning to stone after decades. They're deep so they're definitely visible and are highly unlikely to buff out. I checked with Nengun and they said that every compatible glass assembly/part number is discontinued. If anyone has a RH coupe glass assembly laying around or is parting out their vehicle let me know and we can work something out. I'm in the US but would of course pay for the overseas shipping. Thanks!

So I'm pretty sure most have seen the Nismo edition R35 with the red striping that ads some flair and definition to lower areas of the car. Looks sharp in my opinion. A lot of R35 owners say that they do it with pinstripe tape if they don't want to shell out for an OEM kit. So my question is, has anybody tried or seen something similar on an R32 GTR? That is, accent striping on the front lip, side skirts, and rear bumper. My imagination says it could work nicely but then again my imagination often betrays me. Throw up some pics if you got them. Might even fiddle around in a Forza livery editor or something!

So an update as promised. I ended up going the full assembly route as i figure it's long-term insurance and I would have had to pay someone to remove the old assembly anyway and so the price difference between a repaired hose +install and a new OEM part + install was worth it to me. I took a peek under the car beforehand to see if I could remove and reinstall myself but could not for the life of me find a straightforward way to weave the bends and everything around the steering rack. Dropped it off at my usual shop for a day and got it back a bit ago. No leaks (as one would hope) and I don't think they had to remove neighboring bits to do it. Not sure what kind of witchcraft they used but it went in the same way the old one did. Ideally it should be good now for another 30 years right? Pictures of it snaking around below: It goes behind around all this stuff The switch/plug for the high pressure line Here you can see the leak flowing down the hose before it turns into hard line again 3 pipes go into the power steering rack assembly. The one replaced is the center one.

Gotcha, so the whole pipe would be removed and taken to the hydraulics shop to rework

That's some good advice about the hydraulics shop, I'll keep it on my radar. It does sound a lot less painful to just fix the rubber itself. A local shop is selling the whole pipe for a tad less than from Nissan so I was thinking that replacing it all with OEM would be good for the long run. Is the rubber hose alone removed from where it meets the hard line by the first metal plate/bracket? If so, I'm surprised that Nissan doesn't sell the hose alone if the whole pipe can be disassembled like that.

Well I'll go ahead and order the assembly if the rubber hose can't be saved. Hopefully replacement isn't too difficult and labor costs aren't too high. I don't enjoy having to top off my PS fluid all the time. I'll try to keep the thread updated when I get around to installing.

Thanks for the reply. I read somewhere else something about a crush washer deteriorating over time leading to a leak but that might not be applicable to the fitting in question. If the swap can be done without removing the engine or major parts I'll do it myself or ask my mechanic. In the meantime, has anyone had luck using power steering additives to stop small leaks like this?

Hi all, First post here but I have a 1990 R32 GTR with a small power steering leak coming from the high pressure hose leading out of the power steering pump. I had the PS fluid flushed and replaced earlier this year and this leak seems to have developed within the last few months. The car drives fine and doesn't make any strange noises but will leave a few drops on the floor after turning into a parking spot. I got under the car and identified where the leak is coming from as shown in the photo here (the dark streak on the left is the dribble of PS fluid from where the hose meets the metal fitting). I've attached another image of the part and the leak area circled in red. My question is, would it be possible to tighten the metal fitting to stop the leak and if so, how would I go about it? Second, I don't mind buying the whole high pressure PS assembly pictured and swapping it all out as a preventative measure (as I can't find the rubber hose/metal fitting alone), but would this be something that can be done just by getting under the car or would the engine/large components need to be removed first? Thanks for any insight you may have!

Hi, just wanted to ask about the speedo. Series 2 would mean that it has the blue circuit on the back correct? Thanks