nouveau_poor

Think I got it sorted out today. Getting the hose off was testing my patience as it was bloated in the center, so getting the spring clips past the little nozzle "nub" area was damn near impossible. Resorted to cutting it off with a razor. Found the source of the leak, there is a tiny split on the rear of the hose that wasn't visible when still on, and matched the location of where the drips were coming from. See below. Went to the auto shop and got a length of hose for a few dollars and new screw type clamps. The old spring clamps still seemed strong and ok but why not get new hardware if I'm already at the store. Learn from my mistakes if you end up reading this thread and have the same issue. I dont know if there is a way to avoid this short of draining all your coolant beforehand, but there will be coolant in this hose and the tubes it connects to. So when you slip it off (but you'll actually cut it off) the coolant will start leaking out. I have a sizable puddle of the stuff on the garage floor that I still have to clean up. Paper towels might help to soak up a bit but if you can get a container of some sort to squeeze in that narrow space to catch it until it stops, that'd be best. Secondly, if you don't get the molded Nissan hose for 25-30ish dollars and get plain hose like I did, do not cut the plain hose to the same length as the original hose. I did that the first time and even with the slight bend/curvature due to the hose coming off the roll, it's not the same as the OEM. What this will result in, is that there will be a rather sharp bend causing the center portion of the new hose to bow out, as though it were being pinched, once it's on since the two nozzles the hose joins are rather close together as in the photos. I was afraid that this bowing was decreasing the inner diameter of that area and could lead to higher pressure so I took it off. Adding insult to injury, even after trying lubricant, the only way I could get it off was to cut it off again since the work space is so small. What you'll want to do is cut the hose to a bit shorter than the original. By doing so it'll allow both sides to connect but still allow room for the hose to "push" further along the nozzle so the sharp bend/kink doesn't occur, with plenty of room behind the nozzle nubs to clamp down on. Will be getting an alignment done in the next day or so for some suspension work I did recently and I'll have them top off the coolant I lost and bleed the system, as I'm pretty sure that there is some air in there after removing the hose. Happy Easter

So I drove out to my local gas station this evening to top up my R32 GTR and then drove back home, temp reading was normal. Somewhere along the way home I sprung a coolant leak and when I checked under the car in my garage I found a small puddle forming under the pulley/belt area at the front of the engine. One paper towel to catch the drips was enough before the leak stopped. I then started up the car again and looked, nothing new was leaking out. I then drove back to the gas station to try to recreate/diagnose the problem. There was no spill at the stall I used and it couldn't have been cleaned since it was late and nobody was working there, so it must have happened on the drive home. I looked under the car again with the engine running, and no leaks. But when I turned the engine off, the leak started again. Poking around the engine bay I'm 97% sure the leak is coming from the little bit of hose shown in the pictures, right in front of the cam cover under the plastic bracket thing that covers the angle sensor wire. Nothing unusual I could point at on the original drive home that could have caused it, so I'm thinking it must have just been on its last leg. When I drove back home, I let the car idle to cool down while watching underneath the car. As the engine cooled while idling, little drips started to come out very slowly, increasing the longer the engine was left to run. I let the engine shut off, and immediately placed some paper towels under the little hose. Checked under the car as the towel turned greenish with coolant and I didnt see any of the drips I saw before. So I'm thinking that the drips from higher up were dripping from the pulleys down onto the floor My questions: What does this hose do? I figure it's something to do with coolant flowing through it as the engine cools down, like a reroute. Once the engine cools down in the morning, can I just remove the two clamps and replace it with a length of new hose, or would that result in coolant pissing out? Is this hose anything special that I would have to buy OEM, or can I go out to the local auto shop and ask for 3 inches of hose of matching diameter? Thanks all.

Welcome, tons of good info on this forum. You're in North Carolina? Whereabouts? Used to live near Charlotte until I moved for work.

Try Yahoo Auctions, I've seen them pop up fairly regularly. Lots of good stuff.

Haven't heard of those, I'll check them out. Thanks for the tip

They're at auction at the moment for quite a bit less than GKTech, so I'm considering them. Of course if they approach the GKTech price I'd opt for those. If the -5mm doesnt give the degrees I'm after then I'd ignore them altogether, but that information is still unknown.

Hey all, Saw that Ikeya Formula offered FUCAs in 2 flavors for the R32 GTR, -5mm and -15mm. Does anyone know how much camber the -5mm arm would give? I recall reading somewhere that the -15mm arm would give ~3 degrees, which is more than I'm looking for (2 degrees). The adjustable ones from GKTech would be the obvious solution, but I might be able to get the Ikeya's for a condition and price I'd be amiss to pass up. Hence my asking. Thanks for any insight!

Must have been serious if the support couldn't be refinished/reinforced. Once you're done, you'll have a pretty unique ride if you're stateside!

Good progress, but would it not have been easier and/or cheaper to just get the Bee R kit?

A necessity. What you really need is a pair of those Nismo branded binoculars. People really out there paying for anything with a Nismo logo on it, when they can usually get them for more realistic prices from Yahoo Auctions/Mercari. But most only usually see the inflated prices on social media so they think it's actually worth that much and not just a scalper's fee lol

When my tank leaked it only leaked until about 3/4 tank. Turns out an evaporation hose on top of the tank, a breather hose attached to the filler hose, and the fuel pump o-ring had all gone bad. Replaced them all and it has been perfect. Not sure how different a GTS tank is from a GTR. If your tank is leaking all the way down to 1/4 tank then it's probably a hole somewhere down low, you might be able to see it without dropping the tank. Dropping the tank itself isn't too hard to do in your garage if you have a buddy and can be done in an afternoon. There's a post on here that gives pretty good directions with pics. Of course a garage with a fuel tank lift would be able to do it much faster. At least since so much is leaking out you don't have to worry about draining/siphoning out (as much) fuel first, but keep in mind that even at 1/4 tank, gas is heavy.

Americans really drive the prices up to ridiculous levels. There are individuals here who are already buying R34 GTRs and paying to store them, even though they can't import them for another 4 years minimum. Prices will be going through the roof with them some already getting close to the 6 figure mark. People want what they can't have, which makes them think these cars are worth the big bags of cash being asked for. Personally, I point the finger at F&F, 'influencers', and JDM fanboi types for the overhype. Same reason Supra prices are absurd with USDM examples going for 6 figures at auction, which makes other owners think their own example is inherently worth more than it really is. Same reason that over here, people will buy even non-GTR Skylines for 15-20K USD. The Skyline name just means that much to some people now. The sad truth is that in a few years, most GTRs, the 34 especially, will be unattainable to most people (myself included) without windfalls of disposable income. Those who already own these cars now are fortunate to have them!

If it's an OBD port, you could try something from here: http://www.buyobd.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=6 I use the bluetooth one and it works fine with NDS. You might be able to get it to connect to your phone or laptop that way if usb is giving you issues. Cheap, so might be worth a shot if you haven't considered already. I once tried an OBDII bluetooth dongle (might be the same as yours, it's clear blue plastic) with a 16 to 14 pin convert cable to see if it would work. It didn't, as one might expect.

Hey all, So I might just be a bit slow but wanted to check how these pedals are supposed to be installed. My R32 brake and clutch pedal are held on by a rubber portion and the accelerator by a clip. I got a set of old Nismo pedals that came with little screws/nuts but wanted to know how these are supposed to be mounted. Am I supposed to screw them on top of/into my current pedals? I don't see how they would be installed as complete replacements with the hardware that came with them. The R34 aluminum pedals on the other hand seem to be direct replacements as they look like metal versions of the regular rubber ones.

That's rough man, hope it's an easy enough swap for you. Rain guards seem to be a requirement on any vented hood

When I replaced the low pressure hose in mine there's a little electric plug towards the driver's side of the vehicle. Maybe check that it (and any other plug) wasn't somehow burnt out/damaged from when your line blew? Not sure if that alone could cripple the entire system but if everything is definitely mechanically sound then electrical would likely be the culprit.

The HKS site has manuals for a good number of exhausts but not for Skylines that I saw. The STM diagram on the product info page has pretty much all I need, but I noticed that other manuals had diagrams with extra info like torque and 'installation notes'. So I guess I'm just confused as to why some diagrams would have this info and others don't. I might just look at the Nissan service manual, otherwise I'll just tighten everything enough that I'm confident it wont fall off.

Hey all, I've recently picked up a gently used HKS Super Turbo Muffler system for my R32. Previous owner didn't have the owners manual anymore so I've looked online to see if there was a pdf copy anywhere. Installation should be pretty straightforward but I would like to be absolutely sure that I'm not missing certain steps or little details like torque specs or install tips. Does anybody with a STM have a copy or photos of their owner's manual? R33 or R34 versions might be ok too, I can't imagine they'd differ too much from the R32 procedure.

The thing with R ratings is that it varies a lot. Some cars with R ratings were only involved in a fender bender or other minor traffic accident where a body panel was repaired/replaced. While other R rated cars can be barely running. If I remember correctly, R ratings are given to cars where an insurance claim was filed. Auction inspectors are typically pretty diligent about noting rust on the sheet and typically check the common areas. However, they can miss some things with the volume of cars that go through auction. When I imported my car I consider myself fortunate that it arrived as the sheet described. However, tucked in the rear wheelwell was a spot of minor rust that wasn't marked on the sheet. I'm not sure if the inspector missed it, or it didn't pass some sort of threshold to require a "rust" note on the sheet. It wasn't to bad to fix, but the point is, the auction sheets are not 100% accurate all the time. On the flip side, sellers might not mention all the mods that they've done to the car. For example, my car came with an oil filter relocation kit, various HKS electronics, a Mine's strut bar, some aftermarket stainless piping, BeeR downpipe etc. that I had no idea about until after purchase. The seller's note area is rather small so on a heavily modified car it is to be expected that not everything will fit on the sheet, especially if the original owner sells their car to a dealer, who then puts it up for auction. Typically the more times a car changes hands before reaching the auction house the less accurate the parts list becomes. As much as I don't like to say it, buying cars from auction houses, sight unseen, based only on an auction sheet is a bit of a gamble, which can either work out in your favor or not. Hell, most listings only have 4 or so low-res photos of the car. Most brokers are able to access more/better photos through some sort of auction system but some listings literally only have a couple. Don't get me wrong, bidding on a higher grade car will usually get you a high quality vehicle, but the risk is never 0. And the risk will only increase as the grades go down. For documentation, unfortunately usually the only info you'll get is what's on the auction sheet. If you have a contact or broker in Japan, you might be able to ask them to ask the auction house about any documentation/paperwork but YMMV. For example, my vehicle's auction sheet made no mention of work/maintenance records but once the car was purchased, my broker found the owner's maintenance log with some other things in the car's glovebox during the post-purchase inspection. To be honest, I don't know if he would have been able to get his hands on that log before the car was purchased. In my case, most of the details came after the car was in my broker's possession such as various videos and tons of photos. Most brokers offer this service for free or at least included in their fee. The auction houses themselves dont do any sort of post-auction inspection. Anything they know about the car is typically listed on the sheet up front.

Assuming that you use an auction/import broker, some groups will outright refuse to bid on or import "junk" cars. The one I used to import my car stated this on their site. However, most will be fine with importing R grade cars if they are streetworthy, so maybe my memory of auction grades is fuzzy. I've heard that Grade 3 is technically the lowest auction grade before some people would consider it "un-streetworthy" which could mean anything from either the engine wont turn over to it not meeting certain safety requirements (though this is of less concern for a drift car). To my knowledge, the auction grades are mostly for interior and exterior condition like body work, rust, paint, etc. They'll point out obvious problems like certain functions not working, any obviously aftermarket parts, and include notes from the original seller. Though rare, it's possible to get a grade 3.5/4 car that looks good but doesn't run strong, and vice versa with a low grade car that's still got a sound engine. Unfortunately when this happens most people find out which they end up with once they've already bought the vehicle. I'm pretty sure there is a process where if the car differs significantly enough from what is represented on the auction sheet you can get the auction house to take it back but I don't know the details. Things like engine state/condition are not heavily assessed by auction houses so it's hard to know things like engine health or compression results. Most buyers make educated guesses based on the condition of the rest of the car, the presence of work records/lack thereof, and verified/unverified mileage. If you're lucky you can have someone knowledgeable about a particular car (like skylines or RBs) inspect a car of interest in person or more rarely, get a copy of the car's maintenance records/paperwork before you purchase. If you don't plan on using a broker, nothing's preventing you from bidding on anything, just get a good translator and read the auction sheets carefully. As for pricing, from my experience the heavily modified or damaged cars don't get too much attention and the prices don't normally get high like a grade 4 or mostly factory vehicle, since those cars usually sell so that their prices can be further inflated by the new seller, or be kept in good condition by the new owner. Those looking specifically to get beater condition cars to usually are not the one's shelling out big bucks at auction unless they know it's something really special.

Yeah I've actually got an apexi kit I've been meaning to put on since I saw that link a while back (I've seen some threads question the validity of the test but I tend to err on the side of caution). I got fresh HKS filters soon after I got the car, maybe ~800km ago, more as a placeholder for once I got the apexis on. Thanks for the input. Most of my driving is either parkways for pleasure driving or long highway miles. 90's vehicles don't exactly have the best sound deadening so the drone from the tomei would probably get real old real fast on an 8 hour trip to visit family.

Like above, you could also try Steelstick, made by the JB Weld folks. It's like play-dough and can be had at most any store with a hardware section. A another solution would be to weld a patch over the hole.

Hi all, after reading various threads and watching various YT videos I've narrowed down my exhaust choices to either the HKS Super Turbo or Tomei Expreme TI for my R32 GTR. I like the sound of both and both can support my power goals down the road. I have a slight leaning towards the HKS as I appreciate it being quieter and smoother sounding. The Tomei has a slightly larger diameter at 90mm vs 85mm, weighs about 10kg less, looks a bit prettier, costs a bit less, and is titanium. HKS lists their decibel levels and ground clearance on their spec sheet, but Tomei does not (Though they have a decibel reading for their more expensive Sports Titanium exhaust). My question is, does anybody have/know of any other Tomei decibel readings and possibly the ground clearance once installed? Any opinions on sound or knowledge from experience is welcome too. I've read a thread where someone with a Tomei said they were idling at 90db and passing 103db+ at 3k rpm even with a silenced decat pipe. That seems terribly loud and could get tedious quite quickly. It sounds great in videos, but if those decibel readings are right then I'm not sure if I'd enjoy it for long. The db are more about the comfort for me than getting onto a track, as I don't intend on doing any track days any time soon. Another thread had an owner switching from a titanium exhaust to the Super Turbo and being quite pleased. I have a fairly stock car engine wise, but HKS intakes and a Bee-R equal length downpipe as far as parts that affect sound. It's not lowered significantly, maybe an inch or so from factory on Hipermax IV coilovers with out of the box recommended settings. INB4 some folks swear by custom exhausts but in my area there aren't really any shops that do that sort of thing and the few with exhaust experience cost some BIG dollars.

You can buy the genuine 3 piece skirts through your retailer of choice (i.e Nengun). Nissan released them with some other aero bits through the heritage program fairly recently but of course they cost a pretty penny. Or, you can get some replicas, usually just the rear sideskirt portion to either replace your cracked ones or fit over your existing plain sideskirt. Rear spats I'm pretty sure your only option for genuines is get lucky and find a decent set of used ones and even then you'd likely need a small loan for the price they typically go for. Yahoo Auctions is probably the easiest place find them. Otherwise reps are your other option.

Pleased to say that my hunch was correct. I picked up a Nismo 320km speedo for a reasonable price and confirmed that it had the speed sensor in there before putting everything back together. Tested again with Nissan Data Scan and finally got a functional ECU speed reading for the first time! Drove down to my local hardware store for a few things and NO MORE HICAS LIGHT! Hope these posts help someone else down the line. To be honest, I think I'll probably get a HICAS eliminator kit down the line but for now at least I can enjoy the thought of my car with a working unit and the "spirit" of one of the GTRs main features.