elohim_imanu

It's an interesting find and thanks for sharing. I also could not believe the size, when I first replaced mine. Looks like something from a Mazda Demio. Tempting to try it. But looking at the seal diameter the Z145A, which, according to Supercheap is the correct one, is 63mm and the Z115 is 70mm. I have not measured the mating face, but presume you have and their is no chance of it extruding out. I wonder if modern filters are made in such a way that there is more surface area, that is how they reduce the size. I see the K&N one is even smaller.

I am an idiot. I thought I had checked Nengun. Thanks for the reminder. You know when you have like 50 tabs open. They are much cheaper. NZD $ 2,502 for the box about there is an option for $795 shipping. Now I am seriously looking at this. The best I can find locally is a RWD converted R33 GTR gearbox for $3,000. That is what I mean by stupid prices. My next question, which I have asked of Nengun, is what other parts do I need to add it. I think it comes with a pull fork and thrust bearing. No speed sensor, clutch, slave, shifter. Looking at the pic on the site the part number 32010-AA520. https://www.nengun.com/oem/nissan/32010-aa520 It looks like I need to source the brackets and hoses etc. I am doing an auto conversion. I was looking at putting in a 20DET GB, but it seems that is only going to end in pain.

So I heeded your advise and hunted down the only new one I could find. That was at Alpha Omega Racing. R34 RB25DET Gearbox Price: $3,376.00 I have to admit that it is not a terrible price. But I was quoted $1,326 to ship to NZ. Total of $4,702. I only paid $3,000 for the car, so yeah.

Hi, Do you know what you have to do for this to work. Like do you have to disassemble the whole gearbox, to get the input shaft out and machine it?

Hi. Very interested to see how it goes. Keep us posted. cheers

Exactly. There is not much in between. R33 GTR gearboxes are cheaper, about $2k. But a lot of mucking around making them 2wd. Even a 350 2nd had box is $3k. I know this has been thrashed around here a lot, but is the 20det good for up to 300hp? They are about $1k. Like I said, don't intend to thrash it.

Yeh, like I say. >$4k is more than what I want to spend on a gearbox for this project. But thanks anyway.

Yeh, well. I am running a 25de auto, probably going to do a stock +t to it. So I don't need much in the way of gearboxes, just something reliable and can handle a bit of power and do not want to sink a bunch of cash into it. I am not your average Skyline owner who does burn outs at KFC or drifts. I enjoy working on cars (built not bought). I am a fitter and turner, so know a few things about machinery. Nav gearboxes are relatively cheap. Was just asking, from people who know, if there are some specifics around it. I may just end up just using a 20det box. I am interested where I would buy a new box for $3.5k though. I am in NZ and that is a 2nd hand price.

Careful. You are showing your snobbery. Not all of us have the budget for 3 GTRs.

I am looking at this option, as big boxes are stupid prices these days. How would I find out how much is needed to shorten the input shaft. Or more accurate details. Cheers

Has anyone had experience at converting a D22 Navara gearbox into a 25det gearbox. I understand they are both the FSR30A but need a bell housing swap. Is this all that has to happen? Cheers

I thought I would share my experience on this. My first attempt I used the typical windscreen skinning sealant. I asked around the body and auto paint shops and they said this was the closest thing. A few months later and I start to get leaking. Thinking I must have a faulty light, I extracted it. This was my method. Using two car jacks against some wood onto the middle screws and using very light pressure and gentle heat from the heat gun. Came out nicely, a little slow but next to no effort. Just keep jacking them up as the gue lets go. I discovered that it was leaking through the sealant. It actually did not bond that well and probably formed a small crack. It just pealed off the chassis. It was also sort of brittle. I found a place to buy the real deal. This stuff does not skin and is just like the OEM, also would work on the door cards plastic. It was only about $10 per tube +P&P and I used about 2/3 of a tube for both sides. I just contacted them through the website and had it in my letter box within two days. https://www.glasstools.co.nz/bostik-5414-windscreen-sealer-sealant.html Sweet as.

I have used these two. https://www.bunnings.co.nz/carbond-310ml-black-940fc-pu-adhesive-and-sealant_p0298510 https://www.mitre10.co.nz/shop/gorilla-940fc-pu-sealant-310ml-grey/p/343001

I am upgrading my diff, doing a 5 stud conversion and putting on GTST brakes and I have noticed that the 5x1 half shafts I purchased off a wrecker seem to be missing a dust cover or grease cover. Do some models not use it, or are mine just missing? Probably a good idea to have them there I would think. Or do some models have a rubber seal that is supposed to be in the knuckle/carrier. There has been something there, as it is all nice and polished. I realise there is a seal on the vertical face but not on the circumference. Left is the "new" 5x1 and right is my old 3x2 half shaft. with the said cover. Does anyone have any suggestions what I can do. Does not seem to be a part number associated with it.

I am pretty sure that is factory. The attached is the colour code. But you would want to match up the original wires, in the back of the connector.

Another question: Are you running without the squirters? You have not installed them yourself as other have? That is pretty impressive numbers.

Nice example there. I think only certain option pack Skylines have the self lighting garnish. Do your homework before you start pulling it apart.

Very helpful. Thank you Rolandas.

After reading through this entire post, which is great, I am still unclear how lower the compression ratio on a S2 REB25DE (R33). Is it just down to the pistons? If I replace the pistons with DET ones and probably rods as well, do I have the same CR as a standard DET? I realise that I will not have the oil squirters, but maybe ceramic coating the pistons will help. I think I have seen the valve springs might be a bit softer too. Please fill in the gaps, if you have first hand experience with these and KNOW the answers. With the prices of RB25DETs in NZ right now I am considering rebuilding my DE, which I know, to DET spec, as close as possible.

Good on you for resurrecting another Skyline. Looks like a big project. If you are in for the long haul, and if I were you, I would look at getting the 20det bock, pistons turbo and build it from the bottom to top. I am not too sure that is all the differences. But do your homework and calculate what it is going to cost, then double it. A good 20det screams nicely. Good luck.

According to Nissan that part is called the "rear garnish" at least on other models when it is a separate piece . Good luck.

Thanks for this thread. It has been helpful to help me fix my R33 S2. I made a video that others might find helpful.

Thanks for the informative write up. Why do you ned to change the knuckles? I thought you could swap out the hubs only. Thanks.