Tobz
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Posts posted by Tobz
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Did a bit more work on the car last night, got the rear upper camber arms on, super simple took maybe 10 mins tops. Thankfully that has removed the crappy eccentric washers that come stock and will give me enough adjustability to get the camber right.
also took the car around the block for the first time this year! That was an accomplishment! Just waiting on some catch can parts so I can drive it for an alignment
also worked on my front headlight, sanded it back with 600 then went over that with some 1000. Sprayed it with some clear and they look really good and should last a many many years before they start to yellow again. They are super clear now but there are some micro cracks all through it. But I’m not too worried about that. will also need to get some 2000 sandpaper on it and a cut and polish to remove the orange peel. That will need to wait a week or two for the paint to cure. That should increase the clarity significantly
Before and after shots below
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I thought I was getting close to get an alignment and start to enjoy the car again. But more jobs now!
got the car on the ground and realised the rears have way too much camber now that I got the ride height correct at 345mm on the rear and 355 on the front.
anyway ordered rear upper camber arms to correct the rear camber, also got the eccentric washer elimination kit to get the rear right.
also for some reason I decided I should also do the steering rack bushings. So that is all in the mail.
after that just have the oil catch can, gearbox shifter springs and finish cleaning up the headlights and I think it will finally be ready to go! Starting to get excited now!
after all that I still have a new GTR master cylinder and the Cusco cage to install, but they can wait for now
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Small wins this weekend.
have finally installed my gk tech steering rack spacers, inner tie rods and outer tie rods. So now have a bit more steering angle, have adjusted the tie rods to remove bump steer, and for the toe roughly right
also my new street rims arrived Friday (running wedsport SA70’s (18x9 +20) for track days and Koya SF05’s (18x9 +30) for the street. Very happy with the look, will take a proper photo once off the hoist
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Small progress, been sick for the last few weeks.
got the oil cooler all installed. Was a real hassle as the oil sandwich plate bolt blitz provided was too short, it would work if you didn’t have the pipes attached, but there was only a few threads of engagement. Took me a while to figure this out. Got a replacement saas bolt from supercheap and it worked perfect. No leaks
now the list of activities is slowly shrinking and hopefully can drive it again soon.
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Got a bit done on the car today! Tomorrow I’ve got my lemons team coming around so we can strip our n15 pulsar sss in preparation for cage installation that hopefully should arrive in the next few weeks.
on the skyline managed to get my caster rods, front upper arms and new tie rod ends on. I think suspension wise I only have the rear pineapples left. Not sure if I will need rear camber arms, only need 1degree on the rear and I’m hoping that can be done with the stock parts.
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Seats work really well, they don’t seem cheap, they are comfortable enough. I would say it lacks bolstering which can be annoying on longer trips and maybe some additional padding wouldn’t go astray. Overall I am happy, but they are a bit hard and lack bolstering
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As @GTSBoy states these are not road legal. Another reason I wanted a fairly standard looking seat in the car so as not to arouse suspicion.... I figured if it says recaro or bride or velo it’s pretty obviously aftermarket. Whereas these without branding may have a slight chance of not being picked up.
also have kept the originals just in case I ever need to go over the pits
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Well had a fun day finishing the battery relocation. Overall I’m pretty happy, just need to extend my negative cable later on as the original ground I found was not sufficient.
overall pretty happy with the R33 battery tray in the R34 boot
also the bus bar made the wiring really clean in the bonnet
for those interested I used:
8m of 0 gauge (53mm) of copper wire (was probably a meter or two too much, but I didn’t want to have too little). Used this for positive and negative and used heat shrink on the ends to identify positive and negative
Battery terminals (I used some called military spec, not sure what makes them that)
200A circuit breaker
Heavy duty 4 way bus bar
Heat shrink (14mm)
Copper cable lugs
Projecta Battery Terminal Shims
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6 minutes ago, xcess said:
How is the lateral support? Any good for track use do you think?
Better than stock, not like a real bucket seat though, heaps more support than stock, heaps less than a dedicated bucket. I think it will be good enough, especially with a harness
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Also I think getting it low requires a bottom mounted seat, side mounts add to much height
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On 23/02/2020 at 2:03 AM, ltsmatthew said:
want a good and reliable ECU that call also plug into a screen to read vehicle speed, fuel level, coolant temp, etc.
Won’t be able to get fuel level or speed without running your own sensor.
As said before the car can only show the below. Anything additional will require you to add your own sensors to the new ECU or Dash
Ign Map
Inj Map
AirFlow
Injector
Boost
Acceler.
Ign/Inj
Cranking
Wtr Temp
Rev/Idle
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I found with the seats, rails and crank Motorsport bracket, my seats are actually lower than stock now
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Just to help out, not sure if you are even still looking into this @thenixtone
i bought the autotechnica ssp67 seats
i bought the autotechnica seat rails and
these seat subframes from crank Motorsport:
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F173094681032
all bolted in with no issues at all, no drilling, just bolt it in
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If it was me i would get a haltech or even adaptronic modular ecu.
They both have can bus and means you can then run something like this https://www.powertunedigital.com/ and pop it in a R34 MFD hood
would still need oil temp, pressure and afr sensors though.
I have an adaptronic select and that has limited me a bit so i had to get a Race Technologies Dash 2 Pro (which includes logging for track work) along with the oil temp, pressure and afr sensors and will be mounting it in the GTR MFD hood.
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I believe the stock ECU, therefore the powerFC can only monitor:
Ign Map
Inj Map
AirFlow
Injector
Boost
Acceler.
Ign/Inj
Cranking
Wtr Temp
Rev/Idle
So the big ones missing would be Oil Temp and Oil pressure, i think you can add them as analogue inputs, expect that to add around $300 to the cost for good quality sensors.
Also AFR would not be shown, again i think about $80 for a half decent one? Also not sure how many, if any, analogue inputs are in the PowerFC.
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@Kinkstaah it’s the hioctane box. Fit is ok, I wouldn’t say it’s perfect but it isn’t terrible either. There is a gap but I would say its good enough to mostly isolate it from the hot air in the engine bay.
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Starting to get ready to move the battery to the boot. Bought an R33 rear battery tray, the holes in the boot are covered by two round black stickers, peel them off and there are the mounting holes for the battery tray. Battery tray needs a small notch cut out to clear a bracket. Otherwise fits perfect!
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Have done a few odds and ends this weekend!
one success is finally getting the car off the hoist for the weekend as I finally put everything back together. Will need to put it back up again though to do the front upper camber arms, caster rods and pineapples.
Got the apexi pod filter along with an enclosed cover popped in
also installed my new seats. Wanted seats without any branding on them so they aren’t immediately obvious as after market. They are autotechnica ssp67 seats which have ADR approval and fitted quite nice.
Used the autotechnica rails with the crank Motorsport seat subframe. All lined up perfect
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Also ordered some hard racing front upper camber arms and front tension rods so I can dial in the front alignment... this car is a money pit!
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Finally have the alpha omega brake kit installed! Haven’t finished the brake lines or bleeding yet, but at least they are on. Front were a super simple, the rear were shitty as they needed the hubs removed... but overall good price of kit so far!
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Still doing the brake conversion. Only been working on it after work so only get an hour or two in each night. Went to do the rear brakes with the alpha omega kit and forgot it had a hub spacer. Anyway the process to remove the rear hubs is a pain in the buy but finally got the spacers in so will finish the brakes this weekend hopefully.
also saw the rear tie rod ends we’re a mess so have installed the gktech hicas eliminator kit. Have to say build quality is really good and fitted perfectly. Those poly bushes are an absolute pain though!
also got a crappy front bar just to see what the Jsai Impul bar was like. I got it super cheap as it’s a little warped and cut in places, but it served its purpose to help me see what it looks like in real life. Will probably buy a new one in the coming weeks as this one may be a little too far gone for the finish I’m looking for
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Thanks everyone for all your help, ideas and support! I think I would have gone nuts without it
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Ok! Finally got the stupid thing off!
even after using a 2m breaker bar, no dice. I went and bought a proper 6 point 27mm socket rather than the 12 point I had. Used some WD40 specialty penetrating oil. Used my impact wrench again, no issue.
pretty sure the 6point socket was the key as it had no flex in the socket at all, compared to the 12 point which just wasn’t up to mustard
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I need to remove the hubs to add a 6mm spacer for the alpha omega brake kit, such a pain in the butt! Totally should have just got the WTAC edition that didnt need the spacer.
Anyway learning a lot. Haven’t worked on a car before with this many stubborn parts! So at least I’m learning!
N15 #555 Lemons Car
in Projects, Overhauls and Build-ups
Posted · Edited by Tobz
Hey all!
so this story goes back a few years! At a bucks party me and a 7 other friends who all owned Toyota 86’s at the time decided to buy a 1998 ST04 Toyota Celica for the 24h lemons racing. Best drunk decision ever. We bought the car next day and started the journey.
our first race was at Wakefield and we finished the race! We learnt a lot and due to poor planning only had shitty brake pads, so we learnt how to do brake changes in 7 minutes while we did driver swaps. Was an awesome race and we finished 14th (lost a bit of time due to brakes)
our next event was in Winton. Again we finished we had very minimal issues, but we developed a shifting issue and lost most gears. We finished with only 3rd gear. Turns out our shifter cables failed.
our third event was at Winton and this time we had bearing and driveshaft failures. We ended up retiring at the start of the second day.
our last event in this car was back at old faithful Wakefield park. We had driveshaft nut issues, stupid new driveshaft nuts were weak as, and just stripped and let go. We called around and managed to get some off a wrecker, we also needed to clean up the threads as they got stripped. But we fixed that, and a few other stupid small issues, including a loose seat, a wheel that overheated so bad it made the brake rotor holes oval. Anyway we finished the race and decided we wanted a faster car
Which leads me to late last year. We picked up a series 2, 2000 N15 Pulsar SSS. 180,000kms and it is in terrible condition. Perfect for lemons.
to date we havent done much, we have stripped the interior, removed the sound deadening and bought a lot of parts. Today we drained and removed the radiator and drained and removed the gearbox. We will be pulling the engine out next time we get together and here is my question.
if you were us, and you were pulling the engine out, what preventative maintenance or upgrades would you do for a car that will be doing cheap endurance racing? So far we have the following planned:
upgraded thick all aluminium radiator
oil cooler and relocation
new engine mounts
Ceramic spring Clutch
new rear main seal
new rocker cover gasket
new water pump
pads, rotors, braided lines
springs and shocks
15inch rims and tyres
wheel bearings
normal stuff like harness, seat and an AGI cage
plus the usual plugs, leads, oils and filters
will continue to post updates