bigboss59400

Hello, I'm looking for Nissan consult II with or without cards Best regards

Anybody succeed to read data from the ABS module without the nissan consult II ? (because this tool is nearly impossible to get...)

Thanks for your answer however now I'm out of idea... I have performed the following tests : - continuity test between the wiring of the abs pump and the abs ECU - ring abs sensor are in good condition and have the correct number of teeth (46) - all fuses are ok - tyres are globally in same condition; is within +/- 10mm - I have electrically disconnected the abs pump to test it : * relay are ok (80 ohms and I can "hear" them when I powered them) * solenoid valves seems ok (4 ohms or 8 ohms and consummes 1.5A or 3A; it will depends if it's an inlet or outlet) * the abs motor is working My questions : - I have a front limited diff slip, is it possible that's making some trouble with the ABS ? - should I open the abs pump to check the valves ? - should I go for new tyres ? - where can I found the software to use with nissan consult to connect to the abs ECU (so that I could log some infos) Any other idea maybe ? Thanks for your time

on a r34 gtr too ? you are talking about the relay inside the abs pump I guess ? do you recall the reference/model of the relay so that I could order upfront

anyone ?

Hello, I have a full stock r34 gtr however the brakes locked. Brakes are fine (pedal feels good), I had to go over 90km h under rain to make it locked. no brake leakage and brake fluid level is ok. I'm using used (good conditions) winter tyres. abs goes on and off after ignition is switch on. I had a fault code 72 that I clear and it didnt get back.This fault code was relating to TPS (MFD show correctly the TP) I also checked the TPS signal on the abs connector and voltage is within spec (0.5 - 4v) I checked the wheel sensors from the connector of the abs module I got values (using a cheap chinese ohmeter) between -0.5k and +8k (depends at which speed I turn the wheel ) with average/rest at 1.2k during the wheel sensors signal measurements; I moved/shake the wheel sensors wires/connectors to make sure there is no short or open in the loom/connector/sensor. I'm out of idea ? can it be a relay ? fuses ? best regards

Hello, I'm looking for a r34 gtr the big halo lens of the rear left tail light. Or a damaged rear left tail light with this lens in good condition Or a undamaged rear left tail light ... Best regards

thanks for your reply 2% of what ? How did you calculate this ?:O

Thanks for your reply, well there aren't aligned due to fabrication mistake I guess because that's basically the same disks yes I know the pads aren't directly in contact. as you can see in the drawing the effort is not fully transmit (reduced to area between the red arrow) and I expect the metal plate to bend between the blue arrows or am I wrong somewhere ?

thanks for your reply Hmmm the manual is referring to the aligment pads ... they said it's not critical but isn't it optimal I guess ? because the efforts will not be on the full friction pads but on only 80% of them... I was going to use this clutch on my next upgrade (1000bhp with sequential gearbox ) I'm afraid that I will not get the same performance/durability if I was using aligned disks what do you think ? PS : I dont have any experience in such area so sorry for doubting ...

Hello, I bought a Xtrem double ceramic disk clutch for my R34 GTR however I noticed that the disks can't be aligned The manual said they must be aligned. I ask directly to Xtrem and they said it doesn't matter...I found it weird. What do you think ? Best regards

Hello, Can someone confirm that the Greddy/trust front differential oil cover can be mount when the engine is in the car ? BR

Hello, Typo mistake on the tittle; it should be F160 Can someone with some experience could answer me please ? Following the R32/R33 service manual and having all the correct tools, I got so far : 0.7Nm of pinion preload (intead of 0.8Nm) gear tooth pattern is ok backlash between 0.11mm and 0.15mm total preload of 0.9Nm instead of 1.8Nm and that's my concern...I can't get the carrier side bearing preload to the specifications I can rotate the ring hardly by hand. I also noticed that even if I don't put the LSD inside the case, and screw the part circle in green, the case is deforming of about +0.04mm ! (red arrow) if I put the LSD inside and a shim (purple circle) of 0.80 (which makes in my case 0.45mm of axial constraints), the case is deforming of about +0.15mm!! If I constraint more then I get of course a bigger preload for the carrier bearing preload but then I can't get the backlash into specifications as well as the gear pattern and I can't rotate anymore by hand and I feel some hard points... Is it normal to obeserve such deformations ? or is my carrier case damaged and/or the part in green ? Everything is new, except the carrier case, the part in green and the pinion and ring (they should be like new...) Are you able to move the ring by hand on your front diff ? Should I stick with my low preload of the carrier bearing of 0.2Nm instead of the 1Nm asked ? Thanks for your time

Hello, I'm rebuilding my R34 gtr front diff since a few weeks now however I'm doubting on some aspect and can't decided... So I'm looking for someone who has experienced in this because I have specific questions. I'm willing to pay for this Best regards

Hello, I'm rebuilding my front r34 gtr diff, I have one last question regarding the preload side bearings. I have the r32/r33 service manual procedure. Can you confirm that we must put some preloads on the side bearings ? Best regards

Hello, I'm rebuilding my front diff thanks to the r32/r33 service manual however there is no clearance mention on it... I suppose it should be between 0 and 0.05mm ? (because the adjustable shims goes with 0.05mm incremental) Basicaly the 2 tapper roller bearings clerance can be adjust with 2 shims Best regards

Hello, Is there anyone who put a R34 gtr front diff pinion into a R33/R32 sump ? The invert is possible. The reference of a R34 gtr sump is different of the R32/R33 I'm asking because it seems that the previous owner put a R32/R33 gtr entire sump on my R34 gtr ...... So I guess I must do some dremel job ? If I correctly measure I must removed 2mm where the pinion is hitting the case (see white paint on the picture). The width of the sump is 8mm so that should be fine I suppose. best regards

Hello, I was wondering if someone find an alternative reference with the same connector. The original parts are made by NTK reference KNE01A however I'm not able to find it anywhere... KN is the standard range of NTK to detect knocks between 5Khz and 15Khz. The reasons I'm looking for this are to save money and get parts quicker BR

Hello, 22740AA300 is the reference corresponding to the exhaust temperature sensor however it cost more than 300 bucks. I was wondering if someone found an alternative reference or aftermarket part ? (I guess it will required some soldering on the connector) Best regards

So I found n1 has a higher pressure but same flow rate nismo is similar to hks so I will go with stock one with Reimax or spool thanks for the help

I will not go with Tomei as it required more modifications THanks for the hint Dose pipe Anyone knows the Nismo flow rate and if it's required an oil restrictor on a standard RB26 ? Best regards

Thanks for your reply, Then remaining choice are : - new stock housing with reimax gears (or is there any other brands ?) - nismo, I suppose the flow rate is increased, can I still use it on a standard GTR ? (without oil restrictor for instance) re they ok now ? because 10 years ago there were a bad batch...

Hello, I know they are a lot of informations about rb oil pump but I still can't decided ... I don't want to put an external pump or oil restrictor or extended sump. Car will stay stock and might see some track days. Here's the option I see so far: - Tomei pump because it has a 25% increase flow rate only (Nitto is 40% and too much for my setup I guess), if using Tomei should I overfill a bit the sump ? I'm afraid of empty this one) Tomei manual say you should run it with extended sump... - N1/Nismo; I'm afraid of buying a bad batch of around 2010. 10 years later is the manufacturing ok with these parts ? - stock, N1, Nismo housing with aftermarket gears (Reimax for instance) I'm looking for the more reliable option as I don't want to destroy something or pull out the engine for a wrong choice ...so let's say budget is not a criteria Thanks for your advice

thanks for your reply ! I will try except Tomei is there any other that make some ? Tomei has 3.9 and 3.6xx if I'm not mistaken also it seems that OEM complete front diff are available ... but not cheap

Hello, I'm looking for a front pinion and ring final drive gear of a BNR34 differential Nissan part is 3810000V00 but not available anymore. Preferably new one or aftermarket ? Ratio is 3.545 Best regards