bigboss59400

After some digging, it looks like there is no R34 rear seat removal kit available ? Or am I missing something ?

Hi, For my next build, I would like to go to dry sump but I have a few questions : A. I would like to keep the AC, so it looks like it's possible to mount the oil pump below the alternator. B.1. I would love to find room for the oil tank in the engine bay (by removing/reallocating the fuse box) however I'm afraid of the efficiency of the oil tank as it will not be a bottle design ? 2. or in the driver side front bumper, but same as above + quite annoying when refilling oil or even checking oil level...I only saw some R35 with this location (no R32-R34) Conclusion it looks like the best area is the trunk or the rear seats which is quite annoying for a "street" car C. How can I know how many oil liters the engine needs per RPM ? I'm looking into the selection of the correct pressure of my oil pump but I don't know how to do it ? D. Goal is 600-700WHP, street and track days (no drag or launch control to save the transmissions) and since my front trans already broke (due to incorrect ratio => previous owner). I know what's involved if it brakes again D.1. Considering my application and power level, do you think I should go with a kiwi oil pan (with separate front diff case) ? or it's not likely it will brake and I'm better putting the money somewhere else. "Money is not the issue". The question is does it worth it ? Thanks for your advices !

If the 4 wheels are spinning, Do you mean the traction control will not work if I connect only 2 over the 4 wheel speed sensor even if I have LSDs ? Or do you mean I need a GPS to get the actual speed of the vehicule ? If so then yes I thought of adding a sensor like this but thanks for pointing this out again Instead of a GPS which is quite slow, I'm looking in ground speed sensor type (radar at 24Ghz) but there are not a lot of brand and looks like it's not cheap too !

Just a confirmation, since my front and rear are LSDs I can connect only one rear and one front wheel speed sensor ?

Thanks for your detailed answer ! By soft fuel cut you meant lower injector duty cycle ? My question might be stupid : why not stop the ignition for all cylinders but still opening a bit the injector to not rise the temperature too much ? I never noticed such front torque caracteristic on the MFD, I will have a look next time your thought looks very good ! thank you for the strategy !

Thanks a lot for your answers! So basically it will be for a setup around 800bhp, street use and some track days. It's not meant for racing so I don't think I will have a lot of traction control scenarios as I want to keep it as simple as possible. Less effort for max performance. So basically if the aftermarket ECU can deal with the quite high speed ABS wheel sensors (and maybe some circuitry in between to feed ECU with square wave) then it's just a matter of creating/tuning a map. This doesn't look too complicated or am I missing something ? Then finally I'm considering keeping the ATTESA system as it's taking into account much more parameter that I thought. I'm just concerned on how these 2 systems would work together : exemple, low friction on straight line full power, the rear wheels start to spin then the ATTESA will send some power to the front until the rear stop. But the aftermarket control see it too so it will reduce power ? or should it reduce power only when the front spin ? or should the aftermarket trigger only when the attesa system can't manage anymore: ie when the rear/front wheels are still spinning when the F/R torque ratio is 50/50 ? /cdn-cgi/image/format=auto,onerror=redirect,width=1920,height=1920,fit=scale-down/https://www.gtr.co.uk/attachments/1648330759137-png.272474/ It looks like there is a front torque meter, can someone point me out what is it and where it's located ?Also is 30kg.m maximum measurable value ? Thanks again for your advice

Hi, I'm currently benchmarking ECUs for my r34 gtr, I would really like to have traction control using the ABS sensors and the transfer case. So far I found syvecs and powertune (motec) which seem to have such feature. However I have some questions regarding the traction control feature. However except a r33 gtr rwd demo car from powertune, I couldn't find anyone who has done it ? Best regards

thanks for your feedback ! Well my point was for the active part of the edfc. Did you have the edfc active pro ? so that the dampers are adjust in "real time" ? (with g and speed sensor and so on ) did you make some track days with them ? Best regards

thanks for your inputs well I just mention some brands maybe I forgot one which made some product for the r34 gtr ? so it looks like only tein made a "serious" product? But I'm quite concerned due to lack of reviews edfc is from 2013 ! and no new product since then so I guess it's not popular which means it's not a good option ? so I think I'm better to go with a more classic system

Hello, I'm considering to upgrade (from stock suspension) to an active suspension system. Car will be street/track days but I would like the best setup. However it's quite hard to find review on such aftermarket product. So I'm wondering if it's worth it or if it's just a gadget ? The only brand which has made a model for a R34 gtr is tein (mono + active EDFC pro) I noticed also some other brand such as mcr-ltd, dscsport, Aragosta or tractivesuspension Any advice ? Best regards

Yeah I So to conclude compression test is between 100 and 105psi (full throttle, battery charged ) I always noticed that the high rpm didn't felt powerful So maybe it has been damaged due to the high temp or not Anyway it's fine for me at the moment I will leave it as it is Thanks for the help and suggestions !

So end of the story by setting correctly the timing belt everything Line up correctly The car is now running much better !!! I couldn't go above 800 degree on medium/hard road drive I'm so happy thanks for all

Thanks for all your input guys It looks like the exhaust cam timing is wrong ...(1 teeth off ) However when putting the engine at its top dead center the admission cam is 0.5 teeth off and so the exhaust cam is 1.5 teeth off Does it means that the timing belt pressure is wrong which explains the 0.5 teeth difference? Thanks for your time

what do you mean by that? thanks for your reply

So I try to set the ignition to 15,20 or 25 doesn't make any difference.. I have 2.6 bar at iddling on the fuel pressure line (taken after the fuel filter) I have 3.0 bar when removing the vacum hose or during the next 5secs I put the ignition on The fuel pressure is between 3.0 and 3.5 bars under WOT The fuel pressure is droping slowly continuously a bit after I switch off the car According to the service manual, these values are ok meaning pressure regulator and fuel pumps are ok I don't know what to do/test... The car is fully stock, seems to be in good health (no suspect sounds or lack of power ) Any suggestions ?

Hello, I'm selling my nismo r34 gtr cluster in excellent condition Color is black without original box Price 2900 USD Location: France but I can ship worldwilde Best regards

Thanks for your reply So for you it's not related to the fuel pump and fuel regulator What temps should I see on the highway idling at 3k in 6th gear ? So maybe the CAS is wrongly set, I will remove some advance to see thanks

Hello, During highway around 3000rpm I'm at around 840 in sixth gear. During a WOT second gear to 4th gear I'm at 960 and I stopped at this point... (MFD starts to warn me) Engine iddling I'm at about 550 I didn't pay attention in the past to this as I was solving others issues... The car is fully stock, everything seems to work good It looks like the engine is running too much lean ? Should I make some log data for the AFR ? I suspected the fuel regulator and the fuel pump to be 22 years old....Is it probably the issue ? THanks for your inputs

the only reliable solution will be to spy the bus while using the nissan consult ... good luck to put your hands on a Nissan consult

Lol no Let me explain, my several anti-thefts are bouncing in my trunk.... So a cargo net would block them somehow That's why I was wondering if someone already adapt something

Anyone fitted a cargo net for a r34 gtr ?

Hello, I'm looking into a rear final drive pinion and crown for a r34 gtr 38100-00A60 or a complete diff Ratio is 3.545 (39:11) Best regards

There is an option also to keep the air con. If so where are they putting the external pump ?

thanks for your reply guys ! Any picture available ?

Is there anyone who install a dry sump pump reservoir in the engine bay ? Removing the windscreen tank should be the way to go I guess ? custom tank I suppose ? Thanks for your answers