bigboss59400

Is it a retoric question regaring the number of 2.8s ? To be honest, I did not fully paid attention to this detail so I have no clue... I just noticed that Nitto is doing a 2.6 crankshaft too So now it's either 2.6 crankshaft std or 2.8 crankshaft with wider bearing or ?

Thanks a lot for your reply ! And especially to @burn4005 for your feedback on your setup which is basically the power I'm chasing (Yes I will have a crank trigger ) OK then I will put a surge tank and a coolant swirl pot I will stay with JUN as they are rated to 65 compared to kelford beehive which are 105 (too high for VCAM) 120+ even with the 25 row setrab in additiion for just a few laps that's huge ! so I guess I will not drive longer than that... Interesting to know that the car needs to be fully warmed with a billet block which is quite annoying for the street aspect... So I will stay with a new standard block + prp main cap @Piggaz 2.7 piston speed is slowest than 2.8 so more "reliable" that's why My last remaining question is : nitto stroker kit 2.8 with wide bearing V2 or nitto stoker kit 2.7 V1 ? I prefer to have a 2.7 stroker but I like the idea of wider bearing... or other ? why ?

Thanks a lot I will go with nitto then - valves There aren't any lifter for 31mm circle base cam and looking into hks vcam datasheet and Jun cam specs. They still use the stock lifter so I will stay with the stock dimension lifter Regarding springs I will go with Jun (65psi and standard lift ), should be a bit harder than hks (around 55psi from the mafia ) so here are the remaining questions : - new stock 05U block + PRP brace main cap or should I go BILLET + brace ? (I don't think billet is necessary here) - nitto stroker kit 2.8 with wide bearing V2 or nitto stoker kit 2.7 V1 ? I prefer to have a 2.7 stroker but I like the idea of wider bearing...

Thanks a lot guys for your reply The goal here is to have a reliable car that will not explod at the first lap of track and not the fastest one... I know there are more performant car now in the range of price of the r34 gtr but that's not what I want. I don't want to sound rud or whatever but can we please go back to my questions please ? - Ideal oil Temp transmission part What are the ideal and max temp for gearbox, transfer case, rear and front diff ? - Valves Regarding valves, yes I saw the topic, if I'm not mistaken the mafia went with the HKS to solve the problem So I don't know if the HKS springs would be sufficient for 30psi with 8k-8.5k max rpm ? Considering HKS cam are 31mm base, should I buy TOMEI lifter and machine down 0.5 to use stock size of shims ? or can I just use bigger shims ? I'm afraid of popping shim out with bigger shims ? - Fans All right, I will go with the metal jacket then, it should be enough indeed - Exhaust The tomei was already on the car when I bought it that's why I will check next time it's dissasembled but from what I recall there aren't any restricition even in the muffler - supertec spline drive with which oil pump ? or nitto sine oil pump ? Well they are also making these spline gears for TOMEI, JUN,HKS, N1, NISMO housing But looks like NITTO is the way to go ? -Block new stock 05U block + PRP brace main cap or should I go BILLET + brace ? (I don't think billet is necessary here) nitto stroker kit 2.8 with wide bearing V2 or nitto stoker kit 2.7 V1 ? I prefer to have a 2.7 stroker but I like the idea of wider bearing... Thanks for all

Thanks a lot guys for your reply I will not quote otherwise my post will became a roman @Kinkstaah indeed but it's so much better to have an electrical valve connected to the ECU so that you can have some strategy (I put the links of the interested pictures otherwise you need to be a paid member...) https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/ecu-controlled-accusump-valve https://www.hpacademy.com/assets/forum/attachments/e3487c8da2/Accusump-GP-limit-active.jpg https://www.hpacademy.com/assets/forum/attachments/8dde21111e/AccusumpLinkG4.jpg https://www.hpacademy.com/assets/forum/attachments/65b71c39b4/AccusumpStandalone.jpg I'm keeping the hicas for the moment so no room I think for a cooler on the rear (like on the r32 gtr) I will have a big capacity cover for the rear diff What are the ideal and max temp for gearbox, transfer case, rear and front diff ? I agree with you (Joshua) regarding the location of the dry sump tank (Murray_Calavera but thanks for the tips) Additional information, I'm not planning to high reviving the engine, I'm fine with 8000 @Dose Pipe Sutututu that's the goal of my topic so no offense taken at all it's the opposite in fact - Fuel To be honest I didn't perform calculation (yet) regarding the loss of pressure in the line, that's why I put 12AN... Well I will stuck with the intake pumps (I already bought them...) for the moment as I wanted to keep the boot "clean" but if I see issue I will change plan there and put a surge tank. - Valves I think they didn't specify because they don't intend to sell them if you are not using their camshaft ? And since I will be using their camshafts I supposed that's the right thing to do ? or am I missing something ? - Fans Problem is I'm not sure I will have enough room to keep the OEM fan and shroud with the ticker rad and the AC being move forward due to the ross damper... I guess I need to see when I will be there - Exhaust I agree and the half exhaust power extrem tomei doesn't have restriction So remaining "only" the other half. - washer tank replaced by oil catch tank + washer Thanks !!! - supertec spline drive with which oil pump ? or nitto sine oil pump ? Well they are also making these spline gears for TOMEI, JUN,HKS, N1, NISMO... But looks like NITTO is the way to go ? Remaining questions : - new stock 05U block + PRP brace main cap or should I go BILLET + brace ? (I don't think billet is necessary here) - nitto stroker kit 2.8 with wide bearing V2 or nitto stoker kit 2.7 V1 ? I prefer to have a 2.7 stroker but I like the idea of wider bearing... - Considering HKS cam are 31mm base, should I buy TOMEI lifter and machine down 0.5 to use stock size of shims ? or can I just use bigger shims ? I'm afraid of popping shim out with bigger shims ? I appreciate a lot your feedback keep going

Thanks for your reply guys ! Dry sump is the BEST solution I agree however it add some complexity, integration is also harder (I don't like to have a hot oil tank in the boot or in the rear seat), pre heat is quite necessary too, I don't like to have some oil lines going under the car ... That's why I would like to stay with a wet sump but with an accusump located under the plenum (I need to check if it's fit) The accusump will be control by the ECU. I have also an idea to put an oil level sensor as close as possible to the oil pick up and log it with the ECU... What do you think with this solution ? I went with a koyorad I believe it's 50mm or so (with one big or 2 small fans) Yes I will go for the bigger oil engine rad possible with custom duct in the front passenger side wheel well. I can't find back right now but there is somewhere a post with some detailled pictures... Indeed ! That's a good point to log the temperature and see which element I should add a cooler(s), if so I will stack them in the front driver side wheel well. Dumb question; I will need a small electrical pump to circulate the oil for such elements ? What ideal and max temp should I go for front, rear diff, transfer case and gearbox ? Best regards

Hi, I need your advice for my new setup for my r34 gtr The goal is 600-700AWHP RELIABLE with E85 and standard service meaning I don't want to dissasemble something after 2000kms Mostly the car will be used on the street however I would like to do some trackdays too without compromise "Money is not really the problem", the objective is to match the best part for my objective. What do you think of the following parts to achieve my goal ? VCAM step pro hks exhaust cam 264 10.2mm hks springs OEM valves rb26 head ported with some machining for the bigger HKS cams drain oil and water at the back oil restrictor Should I buy TOMEI lifter and machine down 0.5 to use stock size of shims ? or can I just use bigger shims ? ASNU 1500CC with single feed rail 2x bosch 525 with AN12 G35-1050 TS with 6boost manifold 6x EGT texense with EGT to can from ecumaster bosh DBW + 350z gas pedal + plazman plenum AIM MXP strada Link ECU fury X new stock 05U block + PRP brace main cap or should I go BILLET + brace ? but I don't think that's necessary nitto stroker kit 2.8 with wide bearing V2 or nitto stoker kit 2.7 V1 transfer case rebuild (also swapping some plate disc by abbrasive one) gearbox rebuild + added billet central case xtrem dual clutch ceramic Quaife front diff tomei power extrem exhaust with custom downpipe to match the exhaust manifold water koyorad 1x or 2x spal fans oil engine cooler (passager side) front diff oil cooler (driver side) r35 gtr alternator with custom bracket ross performance gold serie damper with crank trigger kit washer tank replaced by oil catch tank + washer ARC intercooler M073 (if temp is too high I will switch to M079; I found a used one rather cheap...) r35 gtr ignition coils supertec spline drive with which oil pump ? or nitto sine oil pump ? oil extension sump, I have a preference for supertec but there are quite a few other options : RIPS, hi octane, leakspec... compression ratio 9.0 ? or should I go a bit lower ? Chassis is already done (r35 brake, DFV ohlins, all new bushes (superpro) ) THanks for your time !

thanks for the infos ! links are broken ?

anyone have some real data to compare between M073 and M079 ?

Anyone got any news ?

thanks for all your suggestions well it's not really for weight saying first but for the hairnesses (and maybe oil tank ) I will try my way on fiber glass or corflute

I should have been more clear,sorry Yes I meant some metal/carbon/frp sheet to cover the bodyshell Electra (UK based company ) made a few some years ago for instance

Thanks for your answers guys ! @r32-25t do you have any pictures of such installation ? Yes I saw the kit, I'm going with a R35 GTR alternator with a custom bracket, I think it will be okay Yes it's not recommended to put the tank below the pump so I will not considered this option I need to keep the ABS location free if I need to put it back for autorities... I'm still looking for answers to questions C, D1 (and D) 😛

After some digging, it looks like there is no R34 rear seat removal kit available ? Or am I missing something ?

Hi, For my next build, I would like to go to dry sump but I have a few questions : A. I would like to keep the AC, so it looks like it's possible to mount the oil pump below the alternator. B.1. I would love to find room for the oil tank in the engine bay (by removing/reallocating the fuse box) however I'm afraid of the efficiency of the oil tank as it will not be a bottle design ? 2. or in the driver side front bumper, but same as above + quite annoying when refilling oil or even checking oil level...I only saw some R35 with this location (no R32-R34) Conclusion it looks like the best area is the trunk or the rear seats which is quite annoying for a "street" car C. How can I know how many oil liters the engine needs per RPM ? I'm looking into the selection of the correct pressure of my oil pump but I don't know how to do it ? D. Goal is 600-700WHP, street and track days (no drag or launch control to save the transmissions) and since my front trans already broke (due to incorrect ratio => previous owner). I know what's involved if it brakes again D.1. Considering my application and power level, do you think I should go with a kiwi oil pan (with separate front diff case) ? or it's not likely it will brake and I'm better putting the money somewhere else. "Money is not the issue". The question is does it worth it ? Thanks for your advices !

If the 4 wheels are spinning, Do you mean the traction control will not work if I connect only 2 over the 4 wheel speed sensor even if I have LSDs ? Or do you mean I need a GPS to get the actual speed of the vehicule ? If so then yes I thought of adding a sensor like this but thanks for pointing this out again Instead of a GPS which is quite slow, I'm looking in ground speed sensor type (radar at 24Ghz) but there are not a lot of brand and looks like it's not cheap too !

Just a confirmation, since my front and rear are LSDs I can connect only one rear and one front wheel speed sensor ?

Thanks for your detailed answer ! By soft fuel cut you meant lower injector duty cycle ? My question might be stupid : why not stop the ignition for all cylinders but still opening a bit the injector to not rise the temperature too much ? I never noticed such front torque caracteristic on the MFD, I will have a look next time your thought looks very good ! thank you for the strategy !

Thanks a lot for your answers! So basically it will be for a setup around 800bhp, street use and some track days. It's not meant for racing so I don't think I will have a lot of traction control scenarios as I want to keep it as simple as possible. Less effort for max performance. So basically if the aftermarket ECU can deal with the quite high speed ABS wheel sensors (and maybe some circuitry in between to feed ECU with square wave) then it's just a matter of creating/tuning a map. This doesn't look too complicated or am I missing something ? Then finally I'm considering keeping the ATTESA system as it's taking into account much more parameter that I thought. I'm just concerned on how these 2 systems would work together : exemple, low friction on straight line full power, the rear wheels start to spin then the ATTESA will send some power to the front until the rear stop. But the aftermarket control see it too so it will reduce power ? or should it reduce power only when the front spin ? or should the aftermarket trigger only when the attesa system can't manage anymore: ie when the rear/front wheels are still spinning when the F/R torque ratio is 50/50 ? /cdn-cgi/image/format=auto,onerror=redirect,width=1920,height=1920,fit=scale-down/https://www.gtr.co.uk/attachments/1648330759137-png.272474/ It looks like there is a front torque meter, can someone point me out what is it and where it's located ?Also is 30kg.m maximum measurable value ? Thanks again for your advice

Hi, I'm currently benchmarking ECUs for my r34 gtr, I would really like to have traction control using the ABS sensors and the transfer case. So far I found syvecs and powertune (motec) which seem to have such feature. However I have some questions regarding the traction control feature. However except a r33 gtr rwd demo car from powertune, I couldn't find anyone who has done it ? Best regards

thanks for your feedback ! Well my point was for the active part of the edfc. Did you have the edfc active pro ? so that the dampers are adjust in "real time" ? (with g and speed sensor and so on ) did you make some track days with them ? Best regards

thanks for your inputs well I just mention some brands maybe I forgot one which made some product for the r34 gtr ? so it looks like only tein made a "serious" product? But I'm quite concerned due to lack of reviews edfc is from 2013 ! and no new product since then so I guess it's not popular which means it's not a good option ? so I think I'm better to go with a more classic system

Hello, I'm considering to upgrade (from stock suspension) to an active suspension system. Car will be street/track days but I would like the best setup. However it's quite hard to find review on such aftermarket product. So I'm wondering if it's worth it or if it's just a gadget ? The only brand which has made a model for a R34 gtr is tein (mono + active EDFC pro) I noticed also some other brand such as mcr-ltd, dscsport, Aragosta or tractivesuspension Any advice ? Best regards

Yeah I So to conclude compression test is between 100 and 105psi (full throttle, battery charged ) I always noticed that the high rpm didn't felt powerful So maybe it has been damaged due to the high temp or not Anyway it's fine for me at the moment I will leave it as it is Thanks for the help and suggestions !

So end of the story by setting correctly the timing belt everything Line up correctly The car is now running much better !!! I couldn't go above 800 degree on medium/hard road drive I'm so happy thanks for all