JC71

all brand new unit from Tomei, fluid, bearings, etc. Tomei said they call it a 1.5 lsd because its 100 percent lock up under acceleration and 50 percent under deacceleration. as I mentioned I used their fluid, install and their break-in procedure, (alot of figure 8's) but even when driving straight, or even slowly backing out of garage for first time, (at 2 mph) then driving to and from figure 8 parking lot, each tire in the rear would sporadically grab, skip, bounce, shutter and skip, shutter back a force I could feel causing clutch to slip then grab, at any speed. shaking entire car. I removed unit, since I put stock back in and all is fine, via process of elimination, its something with the lsd unit itself. I wasn't going to beat up the entire car more or change anything else for no reason as I had a feeling something in the lsd itself was wrong as everything was fine before this alone was installed and I rechecked over everything else after first time backing out I suspected an issue. I'll probably sadly already need new tires now just from trying to drive it 5 miles and performing the figure 8 break in. but if someone has any ideas I'm all ears

the Tomei LSD fluid with lsd kit. frustrated that it was shaking the car to crap and affecting everything else negatively, I pulled the diff last night, and removed the lsd carrier, could not find anything wrong, however it seem to be 100 locked up acceleration, and deacceleration, wondering if they sent me a 2 way not a 1.5?? either way I installed the stock open carrier back in place. test drove everything smooth as butter again. no shake, shutter, random, what felt like clutch slip and grab or drive shaft play, etc. something differently wrong in side the lsd. I might bother taking it apart (if possible) to figure out what's going on inside this carrier, as bought too long ago to return. only draw back is its back to a one wheel wonder.

sold listed as a Tomei LSD 1.5 Way For 1998+ Nissan Skyline ER34 25GT RB25DE w/Open R200 https://www.ebay.com/itm/174006114594?campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms=&campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=71883f2ccc571356e0a757bc7adfdde2&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms= it went in like butter all gears, alignment, back lash etc, rotation and clearances correct, and if rolling all rotates smooth and free when coasting down road , clutch in or out over 10 mph smooth... its the binding, clunking and jerking from a stop that is most concerning, also seems like its going to tear the tires off in 10 miles of normal road driving.

Clutch is a spec brand, new clutch system,( PP, flywheel, friction disc, etc. pull type) installed 100 miles ago, with no problems.

looking for some help and maybe some insight on others experience with a new LSD. R34 GT ran and drove beautifully, but always alot of grip loss due to the open R200 rear end, so I just installed a new 1.5 LSD way into the stock open R200 for a ER34. Simple. Everything seemed right. I test drove for the first time this weekend. as I started to back out the garage the first time slowly with tires straight it sounded and felt like I had a loose or half disconnected drive shaft...that was clucking around loose and shaking entire vehicle, and making it feel like the trans clutch was spontaneously slipping then grabbing very roughly while just letting out pedal slowly. I backed it out went to pull forward with the same noise, shake and slip grab feeling with hesitation, I turned the tires to back out more and then pulled ahead some same thing but worst because of added wheel resistance (which that I expected) puzzled … pulling it back in checking everything over and finding nothing wrong, I tried it the next day. same thing, couldn’t believe how it shook everything again making a terrible noise and making it feel like the trans clutch was slipping and grabbing, but I got it out of garage into the driveway, got it straight, drove forward and then reveres a few times in a straight line everything shaking , causing what felt like clutch slip and grab every time, sounded like right behind front driver tire and I could feel it in the floor board with my feet,... worst right when beginning to let clutch pedal out to engage slightly, shuttering and sounding terrible along the way…I managed to slowly get down the road, babying it the whole way, once I was rolling (out of 1st) seemed to be better and between shifts, then clutch felt closer to normal…not slip/ grab etc., but back down to any stop, straight road or turning, same thing. Made no difference if all tires were straight or if I was turning. All other gauge read out correct. with in 2 miles as planned I reached the empty parking lot and performed the break in procedure that came with lsd, essentially to drive in a figure 8 a bunch. Did this, binding chattering, and shaking the car the whole way. I drove it back home seemed somewhat normal once I was in straight line and past 10 mph or so, and I know it will “bind” on corners and cause some tires squeal when turning especially from a stop, but when I begin to move it still causes what feels like the trans clutch to slip and jerk badly as well as shaking the entire car, and sounds terrible, that I didn’t expect. I used the fluid they supplied with LSD kit and did the breaking, planning to change fluid as they suggest after breaking, but wondering will it get smoother or less aggressive with use? maybe a 1.5 is just too aggressive for normal road driving? I have a LSD that I put in my 71 cuda when I restored it, with amazing smooth , quite yet effective results. Different style LSD but that ones a joy to drive. maybe expecting too much from this R200?

and if there is not speedo sensor from car to go there? just cap it off? (its currently using a N/A ER34 GT /S15 style diff which has the speed/abs sensor built in front section of diff)

new nissan FS5R30A rb25det neo trans for skyline er34 gtt. what is this large black "plug" in driver side of trans for?

found a company that makes a flat gauge face 3-d printed mounting base kit to eliminate the dished style gauges. if anyone else is looking to do the same https://www.dashfreaks.de/shop/flat-dials-holder-nissan-skyline-r34-gt-gtt/

okay, so I figured this out, removed needles and reinstalled after swapping the gauge face on my triple gauge for my ER34, all work and look good. I tried to do the same for the main cluster, but the main cluster gauge faces are dished, the replacement gauge face are flat, so due to the dish in the org face ,mounting backing plate (clear) and depth of the needle, the flat gauge face will not work. I notice that R34 gtr gauges are flat, appears to be different clear backing plate that aren't dished. are these available, or what have others done to install flat gauge faces?

I have done a lot of research before posting here and on gtruk forum. couldn't find anything. I have my gauges all part except the needle itself. the needle has a extremely small hole in the center, but the shaft going to the needle is extremely small and appears to have nothing to index it either. doesn't seem strong enough to simple pry or pull without damaging something. Already tried the old spoon trick on a extra triple meter I have from a gtt, but no luck. the center cap comes off easily but the hole in the meter face plate aren't big enough to get over the needle itself. figured this would be my best place to find someone who might have actually removed theirs. wonder if there is some type of small pin press tool to push the pin in while pulling the needle base off.

how does one remove the needles from the gauge cluster on a R34 GTT?

looking to find a new or used turbo relocation mount sold by SynGarage llc Skyline RB25DET Remote Top Mount turbo adaptor I am just looking for the twisted pipe (top mount relocation adaptor) with welded turbo and stock exhaust manifold flanges wastegate not wanted

a stock / option or aftermarket?

what type or kind of spoiler is this? only seen a couple of these ever, the wing section looks like a stock gt or gtt spoiler style, but one piece? and much taller...

not a date code? or a foundry code?

can someone tell me what information a block number of 330680a on a rb25det engine specifies?

I searched , but did not find what I need, I am mainly looking for where the jack fits into bracket in rear left trunk/fender bracket on a GTT and what holds it in place.

Could someone post some pictures of the factory Jack , tools, spare tire and how they were in a 1998 ER34 2 door skyline originally?

looking for a 60-63 mm / 2 1/2 diameter T pipe like attached with a BOV flange that has a 87 mm center to center spread. is there specific term used to describe this size of BOV mounting? I find some listed as GD, RS ,FV,RZ type...what do each of these type specify?

I did read it all, but been restoring and fabricating classic custom award winning vehicles for 30 years, so I don't think some wiring and a cable will be a problem. doubt a retune will be needed, not with these changes, and not necessary as essentially everything will be "stock". just changing the location of the throttle body, wont make much of a difference, engine and ecu wont know the difference, still will get air, spark, compression, fuel, and sensor readings. All will still functions the same as same size and type of components used. additionally I am in the US, so in a few years if someone around here gets experience with tuning these cars properly and or I can obtain the proper software, program, etc. and experience, then maybe someday a tune will be done, simply to optimize potential performance.

10-4, that's what I found, wanted confirmation, too many place sell stuff claiming its right and half the time its not, I order them up ,thanks

I found two used throttle bodies both claiming to be from a R33 RB25DET, I bought both, when one showed up it has a large center rod with a flat side for the center drive of the TPS. The other has a much smaller center rod with a smaller cross rod through it making a "X".....this style matches what my rb25det neo engine has, so I will be able to use this throttle body and my org wiring and reuse the sensor itself. I don't know why the other has the other version (both said TB from S2) but no matter I was glad I ordered both, as I found one that will work nicely.

I am converting my r34 gtt intake from factory cross over to a front facing intake. eliminating all excessive front mount intercooler piping and traction control etc. I have acquired a nice intake for a non neo rb25det and a r33 throttle body with the same tps as my current neo setup. I have modified ,drilled, taped/made partial reduction flat plate and gaskets, and now the throttle body is mounted to the intake and I have acquired most other parts to do this swap. my one last concern is the fuel rail and injectors. the intake is for a rb25det non neo (r33) and from what I understand that uses side feed injectors, but the neo uses top feed injectors. I have heard mixed reviews from people some saying the neo fuel rail and injectors fit fine others saying simply a large O ring is needed and others saying it cant be done. can some one clarify if the neo stock fuel rail and injectors can be installed onto this intake, and if so what is needed. (the intake looks to be a greddy style front facing intake) thanks

I believe it is a r33 throttle body form any rb25det that will work, so I ordered one of these up, we will see.

if anyone else is wondering, they rotate nicely and with care can rotate them to any orientation without issue. in doing so I was able to eliminate the cross over hose from rocker/valve cover to cover, routing around the back and opening up the space above the coil cover, making the engine look much cleaner.