silviaz

Yeah, problem is would have been better to do it all at once but now I have to pay to pull out the gearbox again.

I had them replaced to with oem style ones not solids, nothing to do with that.

Funny thing is I wanted that replaced but my mechanic said it's a rebuild at that stage, I wanted that replaced because from what I understand it's not deep in the gearbox.

(context, my rb25det pull type gearbox was making a grinding sound on idle and when accelerating in the lower rev range but goes away with the clutch pedal in) I got a pretty hefty bill recently which I'm not overly happy about (only because the problem is still there), my mechanic told me a while back that the grinding noise I had in my car was the spigot bearing, long story short but he pulled it out and it looked like brand new, he said that it wasn't lubricated and ended up putting in a new one that was. I didn't think much of it, until I turned on the car went for a drive and noticed the car has the EXACT same sound, nothing has changed. He said it had some noise which I have no idea what he's referring to and I told him that my gearbox was still grinding, when we went for a test drive he said it was normal. There's no way a grinding gearbox is normal. You can really hear the grinding if you're in a higher gear but your speed is low, I guess makes sense as the gearbox is working harder. That's one issue, the other issue I noticed is there is a loud rattling sound especially when I start up the car and especially as I go up my driveway. Some other things to note is that the previous owner did a dodgy clutch install and also stripped one of the threads on the flywheel bolt which my mechanic all fixed up and put a new clutch kit in, which I'm not sure if that has something to do with it. I know a bit about the history of the car, it was definitely thrashed and tracked. The car itself drives fine and doesn't crunch through the gears, there was wasn't much metal shavings on the gearbox. Do you believe my mechanic misdiagnosed my car? I'm trying to decide what next steps to take, I imagine I'll have to rebuild my gearbox eventually.

I know the gearbox needs to be removed, but was wondering if it's right behind the input shaft as the amount in labour will be alot cheaper to replace it, but will be alot more if it's buried all the way in the gearbox.

Do you know if input and out shaft bearing is behind the input shaft or it's deep in the gearbox? Wasn't able to find info on it.

That will come in the clutch kit, that's actually the main thing + clutch, I need to change because I'm getting grinding noise at idle and when accelerating at certain speeds but goes away when the clutch is in.

Yeah will be a basic exedy heavy duty clutch. Do you know if its worth replacing the input and output shaft bearing? I'm guessing they are behind the input shaft itself before the 4 bolts?

The rb25det pull type gearbox doesnt have that from what i read.

yup got that listed

Hi all, I keep finding more and more things to change when doing a clutch change but my mechanic didn't tell me there were other things that could be changed so wanted to check if I got my list right (let me know if anything is missing): Full clutch kit that comes with all the components rear main seal (might as well while its out) clutch fork input shaft oil seal Fly wheel remachined front and rear input shaft bearing (worth changing?)

I put my dampening all the way on soft, and when I compare my car to my stock Subaru I can definitely feel the difference lol. Maybe I just have cheap Tein's, anyhow am looking into options atm.

I see what you mean, valid points. I thought the mark was around $1,500 for a quality set but I'll ring MCA and go from there. Knowing me I'll probably end up going with the KYB set lol, but will ring MCA first and get more info.

Oh my bad I was looking at the wrong one, just found the one you mentioned. Cheers for that extra info.

Looks like full set is almost 4k to.

I did more research and it's gotten tricker, from what I read coilovers can't be comfortable like stock but I guess the MCA pro comfort you mentioned is similar? Will get them a call to. Quite expensive though, my budget for coilovers was $1,500

Ah ok, appreciate the info will re assess my options.

I could go coilovers, but from what I understand they don't seem to last as long as struts? I just want that comfortable ride, don't care about the performance side of things. I have the king springs already, there is a small chance I'll have to get new ones if these are too low but they should be at least 100mm. What makes you think those are bad? They seem to be at a decent price for quality. Now to hope the airbag doesn't go off lol. Will unhook the negative battery terminal and wait 15 mins.

Ah ok, will look at that to. Cheers

One thing I forgot to mention as well, my airbag isn't flush with the steering wheel it's sticking out so imagine that might have something to do with it. But will see still if I can find a wiring diagram.

I was going to get something like this https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/133127728644

I raised my car above 100mm and it's much better than what it used to be, but i think the coilovers are junk because when i go over speed bumps, feels like my whole suspension is gonna fall off lol.

The ones I'm looking for are OEM and have king springs. Will check out the wiring stuff. Cheers for the info on KYB, seems interesting.

Hey all, I was looking to get some insights on for a more comfy ride. I currently have tien coilovers but it's pretty bumpy on the road even with the dampness being all the way soft, so looking to get oem style ride quality whilst having the car roughly an inch lower so I was going to opt for stock struts + kingsprings, is this worth it or would I end up having a similar experience to coilovers? On a side note, my horn randomly goes off, even when the car is off and stationary, I went to replace the relay to see if it would fix it and same issue, as I went to put the new relay it, it immediately started going off, without even the relay been in, just metal to metal contact. Only way to shut it it off is to pressing the horn but it generally starting going off almost immediately. For context, I did have someone installed a reverse camera 3 days prior to it happening, not sure if that has anything to do with it.

Is that an issue with the car running rich or lean, or just simply because it's modded it requires more frequent maintenance?