silviaz

Ah ok makes sense, cheers.

I've heard good things about LSD's but are they are must in your view?

Great in wet weather you mean for sliding or as in grip well in wet weather?

Ah ok, not sure why they say semi slicks on the website, the tread pattern looks like it? But yeah even if I give it a bit too much gas (which is not much) the back end will slide. I have to very carefully work my way up to speed.

It's all 4 tyres, they are these type tyres https://valinotyres.com.au/products/greeva-08d - so from what I've gathered you recommend I change tyres to get tyres with a regular tread pattern?

Hey all, I noticed on my car in the rain when I drive and if I give it a little bit of acceleration, the back end will start to kick out. Makes it dangerous as I can't merge onto an intersection safely, and if I give it too much gas my car will probably spin out. I know being rear wheel drive does affect things but was wondering how much of a difference semi slicks make compared to regular tyres? The research I did was mixed, saying semi slicks are more for drifting but the rep for the company said they can be used for both. I've also had a wheel alignment recently, and my tyres are near new.

Ah ok, that's what I wanted to know. Thanks!

Yeah that's what I thought, I thought if all he has to do is take off the input shaft cover and replace the bearing behind it, that sounds like a pretty easy job but I'm not 100% sure as I haven't been able to find much information on the process.

Nah this mechanic is honest and for him he has a more "leave it if it's working" approach. Not always ideal because if for example I didn't replace my rear main seal and it leaked then I'd have to pay him again to pull out the box.

Yeah, problem is would have been better to do it all at once but now I have to pay to pull out the gearbox again.

I had them replaced to with oem style ones not solids, nothing to do with that.

Funny thing is I wanted that replaced but my mechanic said it's a rebuild at that stage, I wanted that replaced because from what I understand it's not deep in the gearbox.

(context, my rb25det pull type gearbox was making a grinding sound on idle and when accelerating in the lower rev range but goes away with the clutch pedal in) I got a pretty hefty bill recently which I'm not overly happy about (only because the problem is still there), my mechanic told me a while back that the grinding noise I had in my car was the spigot bearing, long story short but he pulled it out and it looked like brand new, he said that it wasn't lubricated and ended up putting in a new one that was. I didn't think much of it, until I turned on the car went for a drive and noticed the car has the EXACT same sound, nothing has changed. He said it had some noise which I have no idea what he's referring to and I told him that my gearbox was still grinding, when we went for a test drive he said it was normal. There's no way a grinding gearbox is normal. You can really hear the grinding if you're in a higher gear but your speed is low, I guess makes sense as the gearbox is working harder. That's one issue, the other issue I noticed is there is a loud rattling sound especially when I start up the car and especially as I go up my driveway. Some other things to note is that the previous owner did a dodgy clutch install and also stripped one of the threads on the flywheel bolt which my mechanic all fixed up and put a new clutch kit in, which I'm not sure if that has something to do with it. I know a bit about the history of the car, it was definitely thrashed and tracked. The car itself drives fine and doesn't crunch through the gears, there was wasn't much metal shavings on the gearbox. Do you believe my mechanic misdiagnosed my car? I'm trying to decide what next steps to take, I imagine I'll have to rebuild my gearbox eventually.

I know the gearbox needs to be removed, but was wondering if it's right behind the input shaft as the amount in labour will be alot cheaper to replace it, but will be alot more if it's buried all the way in the gearbox.

Do you know if input and out shaft bearing is behind the input shaft or it's deep in the gearbox? Wasn't able to find info on it.

That will come in the clutch kit, that's actually the main thing + clutch, I need to change because I'm getting grinding noise at idle and when accelerating at certain speeds but goes away when the clutch is in.

Yeah will be a basic exedy heavy duty clutch. Do you know if its worth replacing the input and output shaft bearing? I'm guessing they are behind the input shaft itself before the 4 bolts?

The rb25det pull type gearbox doesnt have that from what i read.

yup got that listed

Hi all, I keep finding more and more things to change when doing a clutch change but my mechanic didn't tell me there were other things that could be changed so wanted to check if I got my list right (let me know if anything is missing): Full clutch kit that comes with all the components rear main seal (might as well while its out) clutch fork input shaft oil seal Fly wheel remachined front and rear input shaft bearing (worth changing?)

I put my dampening all the way on soft, and when I compare my car to my stock Subaru I can definitely feel the difference lol. Maybe I just have cheap Tein's, anyhow am looking into options atm.

I see what you mean, valid points. I thought the mark was around $1,500 for a quality set but I'll ring MCA and go from there. Knowing me I'll probably end up going with the KYB set lol, but will ring MCA first and get more info.

Oh my bad I was looking at the wrong one, just found the one you mentioned. Cheers for that extra info.

Looks like full set is almost 4k to.

I did more research and it's gotten tricker, from what I read coilovers can't be comfortable like stock but I guess the MCA pro comfort you mentioned is similar? Will get them a call to. Quite expensive though, my budget for coilovers was $1,500