silviaz

Does anyone know for this, before removing the original film on the screen, should I be able just put the new film over it before removing the unit to test to see if the film I bought is correct? A bit of a stupid question but I tried it and it didn't work so I don't know if the film is incorrect or if the original film needs to be removed to see the effect.

Actually I might have figured out. Looks like there is a tab according to google images but it's hidden. Silly me.

No clips on this one like the other connector. Only that red tab that I can push slightly up.

Hey all, I went to try and fix my indicator not canceling, but I couldn't remove the clockspring cable under the column so I could twist that green thin. Anyone know how to remove this cable? I see this red tab but didn't have any luck. I was thinking of unscrewing it but wasn't sure if it would cause issues. I did notice for my indicator stalk, 2 out of 3 cables were plugged in but the last cable wouldn't fit in the stalk. I'm getting it's for fog lights. It was like this when I originally pulled it off.

I noticed, a lot of these interior panels like the a/c unit and the head unit surround, don't necessarily need to be painted as when you remove the sticky shit it looks decent lol

Anyone know alternatives to powerplus tungsten? Can't find an alternative online.

Can a jammed actuator cause black smoke on boost somehow?

Thanks @GTSBoy & @Duncan you legends! I got it back on. Moving the bolt out of the j arm which allowed me to swing it gave heaps of room to put the strut in. Unbolted the sway bar to and put it on last.

One other thing worth mentioning when I did this job I only jacked up the driver side as I was only doing work there, but from what I understand both wheels should be in the air when removing the sway bar links?

Yep it's an r34. Usually people remove struts without removing the front upper control arm (fuca is what i assume this is?) So not sure why mine wouldn't fit. I know on my other car I did a similar job and it wouldn't fit until I removes the ball joint nut even though I didn't remove it prior. The upper arm doesn't seem to be in the way (the part that's bolted to the chassis. The part that's bolted onto the j arm I'll check that out though. I was going to compress the spring and put it in with the compressor attached but not sure if it will work Haven't seen anyone do it.

One question before I make a bigger mess potentially, do I need to undo the nut on the outer ball joint?

Ok will do, I think I originally had 1 bolt off for the sway bar on when I took off the strut but will give this a ago. Thanks Duncan! My sway bar has play also when I move it around, hoping that's the source of my squeaking because I can't find anything wrong elsewhere

I don't know how this is even possible. I removed the strut to do some work (it came out fine, and keeping in mind that I didn't put things back in the same order, but did this on purpose because I was supposed to remove the strut originally instead I tried to remove other shit first which made things a head ache) but now the problem is that it won't go back in. The alignment between where the bolt hole for the strut is and the j arm where the strut slides onto is way off, about a 10cm difference or more. In order to make it fit I'd somehow need to push it up. I tried to compress it with a spring compressor and install it but the compressor was getting in the way and there was no working room. On the photo you can see the difference between the shock and the thread that it's supposed to go on. The only things I removed in total were - the top bolts for the j arm but I didn't remove the actual j arm - the 3 bolts that hold the plate for the brake lines - the sway bar link (this bolted on back fine) - the strut/shock absorber

Does anyone know when your oil drops viscosity, if it is an issue? I imagine with tuned cars they will be overfueling more compared to a stock standard car and will thin out over time.

Ah ok, reason I asked was for the sake of not having to upgrade everything if the turbo couldn't be capped.

Is it possible to get your turbo high flowed that is capable of 270kw and cap it off at 220kw for example via a boost controller?

So the clockspring is responsible for the indicators cancelling on their own? I thought that was the function of that white thing in the center (any idea what it's called?)

I have 2 year+ new oil that I've been collecting (left over oil from oil changes) fully synethic, I was gonna use as back up oil. Apparently the oil breaks down after a while, loses its properties but I haven't looked extensively into it. Otherwise would put the entire bottle in my engine.

That makes sense.

I thought that the high flowed rb25det turbos were a lot more responsive than the stock one? Would that mean better low end torque?

I don't need a rich spike. I'm still blowing black smoke after my tune when flooring it lol. I wonder if a jammed actuator has anything to do with it

Hmm that sounds pretty bad lol. So that applies for all cars right even the s15's that have the bov blocked off?

A lot of them are driven by p platers with stock ecu's lol. When does the stalling usually happen is it high speeds?

My tuner told me this as well that the reason the car will stall is because it has a AFM system, he said it I want to do it properly I need to delete that system, he said I can try it though to see how it goes. My BOV recirculates btw (can hear flutter sometimes though), how do s15's and stuff not stall and they also have the AFM system? I was considering blocking it off for ovbious reasons but was hesistant because of the above.

yep lol