silviaz

Ah ok thanks man, I'll take a look at the lower control arm and see where that point is. Hopefully don't find place it on the wrong thing haha.

Hey mate, what are those pivot points that you are referring to? I can't find anything about it on the net, you got any photos? Need to know so when I put jack stands on the front and rear of my r34.

Ah ok. yeah it was rapidly changing revs with the clutch I think. Only happens for an instant.

I forgot to mention if I'm operating the clutch in a weird way (like messing up the foot movement) I can hear the squeal

From memory you have an r33? Are you able to adjust the position of the alternator using the 3 bolts on it to change the alignment of the pulley between the alternator and water pump?

Hmm, never heard of that but guess I could give them a go, seems like people say whatever you put on the belt it will ruin it, like soap, wd-40, grease, etc. When you say "sheaves" are you referring to the groove part of the belt? I wonder if it's worth getting new belts entirely.

So for my r34 I had my mechanic change my fan belts and the old ones that I had (only had it for a short time) never squealed on startup, ever since I put new ones on they would squeal when it's cold and if I started the car when it's warm outside then it wouldn't sequel. I ended up taking my car back 3 times to have the fan belt adjusted and I checked the tension myself and seems correct. Goes to 90 degrees and can't go much further. I also had a new water pump installed. Do note that, when my belt got adjusted the third time, it only squealed for half a second and went away and that was fine, but now it's back in full swing going for at least 5-10 seconds then goes away. I sprayed a bit of water on it and I think it was still sounding. Sounds like it's definitely coming from the alternator belt, but all 3 have been changed. Is it possible to change the alignment on the alternator? ( don't know if it's just me or if it looks a little off From what I can tell it's just in one set position. I'm really tempted to get some SCA anti sequel spray from supercheap to shut it up for a while. I just don't want to keep revisiting my mechanic with the same problem.

Yup, it's nice to be able to press on the gas and not almost spin out every time lol.

Ah sorry, sport 5's

Michelin Pilot sports.

I got new tyres and from what I can tell so far day and night difference!

Not intentionally, but it has rained during the day and I had to drive back home and it has been pissing down a few times. The amount of times my back end started kicking out just from taking off from a traffic light is a bit scary lol.

Thanks all for the good info.

Yep that's the one I'm thinking of getting, cheers mate! Great info there.

Looks like I'll be upgrading to some proper street tyres, Yokohama or Michelin, cheers guys!

Ah ok makes sense, cheers.

I've heard good things about LSD's but are they are must in your view?

Great in wet weather you mean for sliding or as in grip well in wet weather?

Ah ok, not sure why they say semi slicks on the website, the tread pattern looks like it? But yeah even if I give it a bit too much gas (which is not much) the back end will slide. I have to very carefully work my way up to speed.

It's all 4 tyres, they are these type tyres https://valinotyres.com.au/products/greeva-08d - so from what I've gathered you recommend I change tyres to get tyres with a regular tread pattern?

Hey all, I noticed on my car in the rain when I drive and if I give it a little bit of acceleration, the back end will start to kick out. Makes it dangerous as I can't merge onto an intersection safely, and if I give it too much gas my car will probably spin out. I know being rear wheel drive does affect things but was wondering how much of a difference semi slicks make compared to regular tyres? The research I did was mixed, saying semi slicks are more for drifting but the rep for the company said they can be used for both. I've also had a wheel alignment recently, and my tyres are near new.

Ah ok, that's what I wanted to know. Thanks!

Yeah that's what I thought, I thought if all he has to do is take off the input shaft cover and replace the bearing behind it, that sounds like a pretty easy job but I'm not 100% sure as I haven't been able to find much information on the process.

Nah this mechanic is honest and for him he has a more "leave it if it's working" approach. Not always ideal because if for example I didn't replace my rear main seal and it leaked then I'd have to pay him again to pull out the box.

Yeah, problem is would have been better to do it all at once but now I have to pay to pull out the gearbox again.