ChrisW434

Sounds like you did it correctly then...

Nothing seems to change when hot with mine. When you did the measurements for the build, is there enough gap (end-play)in the trans tailhousing to allow for any changes with heat/flex etc?

I have an AlphaOmega 1piece tailshaft in my 34 GTT, no issues here. Granted, i havent spent much time going 140+ though yet. Still, love it

I'm not sure about what the work would cost locally yet, hence the question and request for info. I don't know if $600 is realistic here in Aust, just not keen to get the wheel sent to Singapore (or anywhere overseas for that matter). Trying to see what others have done successfully. Seems like there's few different ways to go about it, but quality work isn't cheap, i do agree. Maybe a company like the one below...?

Well that actually sounds better. I'll chase that option up, happy to pay for a quality job. Thanks for the advice!

Yeah thats i what i was thinking, prob still the best option, BYO cover and pay for install

Whoa, not so sure about that option 😄

Sounds good, thanks for the reply!

So i guess its a real delicate job to reupholster it then? Carefully remove worn-out skin then go again?

Just worth doing the cover straight up then by the looks. Cheers!

Hey! i'm considering stripping back the worn off pleather from my 34's steering wheel, until i get it reupholstered in the future. Does anyone know if its a smooth, usable finish underneath, or is it a bad idea? cheers!

Frenchies Performance Group make a neat rear main seal install tool, if you're not in a rush and want a smooth install...

Yeah nice. Cheers mate

Valid 👍🏻 What is your oil viscosity and pressure at idle at say 90deg with the Nitto?

Yeah ive heard they are good as well. Mainly trying to get more real-world info on the PRP unit, as it is so new..

Hey all, I'm chasing some feedback on the latest PRP billet crank-mount oil pump for RBs, specifically oil pressure when hot and all that. I'm tossing up between that and the Tomei. The PRP has a slightly oversize gearset apparently (which is great for increasing oil flow all things being even), but not sure how it compares to the Tomei which has a much larger gearset and three piece gears. Cheerz!

Following..👍🏻

Following

Nice ride 🤙🏻

Look closely at the picture of my gearbox (my GTT also converted from auto). I have labelled both N or R 👍🏻

Yes, sounds like switch wiring needs swapping over.

Once everything is bolted up, make sure the turbo shaft still spins freely, sometimes incorrect fitment can put tension on the housing in relation to each other and cause binding. And always pre-lube the turbo with engine oil. Pour a little oil into the top oil hole to prelube the bearing or journal, spin by hand to help this process. Also crank the engine to build oil pressure first then fire it. 👍🏻

After looking around everywhere online like most people, i ended pulling the trigger on a turbosmart 60mm gate for my 2.5 Neo. My reasoning; - circuit 'track day' car with occasional street use, mid-and-up power preferred - targeting up to 40psi boost with ATR45-SS2 (gt3582 similar), Vband in and out. -6boost single scroll manifold (looks to be difficult to mount wastegate at efficient flow angle). - running e85 most of the time - engine is built with nice parts so should be reliable with 9000rpm (soft fuel cut) redline. - i don't want boost creep at high rpm/boost levels, and with less-than-ideal angle into wastegate at manifold (due to packaging), decided on the 60mm gate hoping the Haltech elite 2000 with good tune can eliminate any 'boost droop' issues (for lack of a better term) when that big girl first opens. keen to give it a try anyway...

Yeah thanks for that. Sounds good, i'm keen to do it right and try to avoid those little mistakes so i can concentrate on the driving, and not have little things get in the way of a good time 👍🏻

Thanks heaps for all that info, exactly what i was after. Great explanations as well. one question : your ride heights of 340/350; what point are they measured from? cheers! 🙌🏻