TurboTapin
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Posts posted by TurboTapin
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Here's a long story, but I'm currently having roughly the same issues. I dropped off a rear differential for some work at a local shop June 6th and I set clear expectations that I wanted it back in time to get it installed for my June 28th dyno day.
June 10th I get a call that parts will take 3-4 weeks to arrive (Side shims and pinion bearings) by a gentlemen named Alex. This is were things started going awry as the parts were available from the dealer within a week. I presumed they were trying to buy time to work on other projects but I let it go.
I call and email them everyday between June 20th-29th to get an update and finally get called back around the 30th, two days after my scheduled dyno day and I'm told that the guy who was working on my diff (Lordan) took personal time off and would be back July 6th. I'm told nobody else is aware of the diff. This is bullshit because the guy who is away did not originally start working on my diff. I ask about the other guy (Alex) and I'm told he has no idea either...
I call July 6th, 7th, but only get a call back on June 8th by Lordan who took time off. He states that the shims are back order. I ask him for the specific part number because as per Nissan EPC, all the shim thicknesses are still available. He says he'll send me the part# in an hour or two. To add insult to injury, he never sends me the part# and the next day when I call, I'm told he's gone for a week to a karting competition. Once again, I'm told nobody can help.
July 17th, Lordan calls back saying that he is waiting for the part# from Alex. I'm surprised to hear this as I was told Alex originally knew nothing about my diff but now he seems to be once again running the show...July 18th, I asked to speak to Lordan. He's away again this time climbing Mount Everest, or who knows what. Lordan is the owner of the shop and clearly needs to spend more time at said shop. The fun part is I then ask to speak to Alex... I'm told he is no longer employed by them.
Many futile calls later, I get a call back by some new guy on July 21st being told that the shims I need do not have a part number and cannot be ordered. While chuckling I ask wtf does that mean exactly... He states they have to be custom made and that they cannot help me any further. This new guy recommends I bring it to another shop which he names and states they bring their Nissan diffs there when they have issues. First off, not only is that not reassuring at all but the worst part is I know this other shop and I'm convinced they do zero work on Nissans. I hang up right away knowing this is bullshit and call the other shop. I ask them about doing work on a Skyline R200 rear diff.. he states they have never worked on nor will they ever work on Nissan diffs. Absolutely furious I call back and ask wtf is going on. He changes his story at this point and says he only gave me that shop name as an example.... best part is he then asks me when I'll come pick up my disassembled diff. I impolitely ask if he believes it's normal that I dropped off a working diff almost 2 months ago and I'm now expected to pick up a box of diff parts ? He says he'll speak to Lordan.... I'm told 2 hours later that they will make it right and they will have it done by another shop and it will be taken care of.
This ladies and gentlemen is why I do all of my own work. I'm calling tomorrow for an update. If I hear anything other then "It will be ready in a week by the other shop and here's the contact information" and the story matches after I call the other shop, I'll go in person tomorrow night and put an end to this gong show.
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On 7/22/2023 at 6:34 AM, Makaveli43 said:
Grey wire to handbrake
You're only 14 years too late. 😁
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Not much of an update. My differential has been sitting at my local shop since the beginning of June with no end in site... Dyno was supposed to be on June 28th but that has now come and gone. I dropped it off for a Nismo LSD and Speedtek 3.33 Final drive install. I should have just done it myself.
Once they took it apart, they told me up to 4 weeks lead time for the remaining parts I did not have (Pinion bearings and Shims). This seemed plausible at the time and I didn't feel like arguing... after checking with Nissan well I could of had it all within a week maybe two due to requiring the bearings to be installed before measuring and ordering shims. Now it seems the tech working on my differential is on personal leave until July 10th and they have no further information for me. I'm not thrilled to say the least...
While the car sits in the garage, I did take the opportunity to correct a few things that were bugging me.
I had originally installed my BOV very close to my methanal injection nozzles. I did not think of it at the time, but this would more then likely lead to methanal being blown off everywhere in my engine bay. I moved the BOV to the OEM GTR location so it's downstream from my nozzles.
I also changed my IAT sensor bung placement to be on more at an angle. It was filling up with methanal and not draining out as I had originally hoped. I also changed my oil and filter again. First time after first start up and this time around 450km's on the engine.
Lastly I installed a 25psi cut in/10psi cut out pressure switch into my meth feed line for added safety. I now trigger my meth correction tables with Meth Controller/Pump run = 1, Meth Controller no fault = 1 and Pressure switch = 1.
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3 hours ago, joshuaho96 said:
I could've waited months for everything to set, I just figured thread sealant didn't make sense because it wouldn't provide resistance/structure like teflon tape. Presumably I could've used thread sealant by just tightening to the same number of turns but it genuinely felt loose so I was worried it would work itself loose even if the thread sealant had set. Another person I saw working on this engine used RTV instead so clearly I was not the only person concerned about this fitting working itself loose, I just hate the idea of using something that would almost certainly make it incredibly annoying to remove in the future.
Teflon Tape will be just fine in your application. First time I hear of anyone using RTV on threads.
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6 hours ago, GTSBoy said:
You don't need an OEM document. You need the Australian Standard AS 5601, and the technical bulletins issued by Energy Safe Victoria, Building and Energy Western Australia, their equivalents in all the other states (who generally just look to ESV for guidance because ESV usually get to the correct technical outcomes before anyone else, and who are supremely technically competent as gas safety regulators).
Something to remember about gas safety. In the US there is NFPA 86, created by the NFPA of course, and policed......by......nobody. At least the Canadian standards are a bit better enforced. My company did the flames for the Vancouver winter olympics, including all the controls and pipework and burners. I know what it's like to get stuff approved in Canada. But Australia? It is like no other place in the world. AS 3814 is widely recognised, amongst people who are aware of many international gas appliance standards (ie NFPA 86, ISO 13577, EN 298, EN 746.2, the various otthers like Japan's, the GOST crap in far eastern Europe, and so on), as being the hardest to comply with because of its complexity. We have to design equipment to comply with 3814 and we have to completely and utterly prove that it meets every applicable part of the standard to a gas inspector in the state where the appliance is being commissioned. And the gas inspectors? They like to see tape and sealant on threaded pipework.
I have a question. If you are using Swagelok, why are you using tape at all? For your high pressure small pipework, why not just swage onto the tube and rely on the Swagelok fittings? I mean, it's not as if you're allowed to use tape in a conical seat fitting anyway. I would have thought that you would be using pressure indicators and transmitter and nipples on the pipework that were fully welded Swagelok.
Here in Australia, we seldom kill anyone with gas appliance explosions, despite the fact that they are looked after by just low pressure gas fitters. I can't think of one incident. The most lethal incident in Australia? In the oil and gas industry. Look up Longford. We (the rest of industry) tend to treat the oil and gas guys as a law unto themselves because they reckon they know everything, even though they have a track record of massive f**kups. It used to be that if you worked for Chevron in Western Oz, you were the big swinging dick in your social circle. Now, oil and gas is such a dirty word that no-one confesses that they still work for them. Most of that is environmental, but a large part is also the expensive failures in the industry over the last 20 years.
We are not bound to any of those appliance or fuel gas standards. We're a federal company legally bound to pipeline standards (ex: CSA Z662) which we actively take part in writting. We are at a much higher pressure, see H2S and our gas doesn't stink like mercaptan thus the risk of a leak is much higher. They are enforced by the CER in canada and the FERC in the US who do yearly site visits and all new constructions have full time inspectors. Leak detection and repair is a very heated topic. If in any of those standards it states using both tape and dope/sealant is fine or makes reference to a procedure to do so, I'd love to see it.
Our tubing generally starts and stops with a threaded fitting. Our above ground pipelines are riddled with tubing and threaded fittings for instrumentation. Underground portions have everything welded.
Tape will often be just fine, but at the end of the day if you can wait out the 24h cure, thread sealant alone is the better option.
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19 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:
You don't use thread connections on anything larger than 40-50mm and certainly not on high pressure applications, so the point is moot.
the fact remains that for pressures up to about 100kPa and small pipe sizes on distribution and appliance pipework, ANY threaded connection will be gas taped and probably with sealant as well. Almost never with sealant only.
Incorrect. Our pipelines generally see 7000+ kpa and so do all those small instrumentation lines with threaded fittings. Swagelok Swak thread sealant for example is rated to 69000kpa.
As for mixing tape and sealant, find me one oem document that recommends it? I've also heard of low pressure pipe fitters doing this but it doesn't make it right.
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47 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:
Industry standard. Almost compulsory on all natural and LP gas thread4d connections. Trusted by every gas fitter the world over.
No-one uses white tape. This is yellow, is at least double the thickness of typical good white tape. Is at least 4 tmes the thickness of cheap Bunnings tape.
That 4$ role of Teflon tape might be standard practice and do a great job in low pressure residential, commercial and industriel fuel gas connections with mercaptan present and the dangers of a leak are minimal but it is not standard in the rest of the oil and gas industry.
I work for one of the largest oil and gas pipeline companies in North America. The only teflon tape allowed on any site is swagelok tape and it's not cheap.
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On 11/2/2021 at 1:45 AM, GTSBoy said:
Win.
Sealant is not an (all purpose) replacement for thread tape. In such an application (and for gas fittings, which I assemble a lot more of than I should) I always use tape and sealant. Coolant and even fuel fittings on cars can deserve both. The thread tape is more of a mechanical thing that jams up in the threads and as you have found, can arrange for the thread to lock up at the right orientation.
The goop does what it says on the box. makes damn sure it won't seal.
Thread sealant is generally the better choice and not to be mixed with tape. Some of the rare cases sealant is not recommended is on non PTFE plastics, freons and anything to be used with food or beverage. Thread sealant is also always the better choice for gas. Unfortunately its biggest down fall is having to wait for it to cure before putting it back into service.
Another issue with Teflon tape and most gases is the wrong Teflon tape is often used... White Teflon tape belongs in your kitchen and bathroom and that's it unless using very expensive products like Swagelok whose white tape is universal.
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I run a gen2 6466 1.00ar divided T4 on my 2.8 and it spools wickedly fast. If you're aiming for 750-800whp, I think it's a great choice. If you're looking at 900whp+ I'd go 6870.
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Very nice sir! Good job. When do you plan and getting it done?
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13 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:
I highlight two words that have a tenuous and troubled relationship with each other.
They're from Cardone, a very large reputable parts manufacturer/remanufacturer in the US/Canada. I have zero concerns.
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25 minutes ago, Murray_Calavera said:
Genuine or reproduction?
Looks like used genuine is still going for 2k+
I got my genuine Brembo stamped 350z track edition calipers for 265$ a pop off Amazon. Both calipers, StopTech disks and a set of Hawk HPS pads came in around 1000$. I have heard though that when ordering from Cardone it's a mix of remanufactured Brembo's and new clones.
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They don't sell the lock barrels anymore, but they do still sell the barrel switch and wiring which is more then likely what you need. Part# 48750-D4500. 30$
If for whatever reason you need the whole kit, 3gspares.co.nz has a used set.
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PCV Valve is the one on your manifold that is capped off. Be careful repurposing the oem pcv lines. The original line between exhaust side valve cover and intake has a small orifice inside it.
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350z track edition Brembo's and disks can be had new for peanuts. That's what I run.
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This sounds like an incorrect release bearing length/travel or clutch pedal adjustment issue to me. If your transmission is still on the car, remove your slave cylinder and by hand pushing your clutch fork, how much play is there before the release bearing touches the flywheel?
If your transmission is off, better yet; ask your clutch OEM for a clutch release bearing checking guide. I can supply you one from ACS that more than likely applies to any clutch if needed.
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Is this a RWD box? If so, fill it through the shifter hole.
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42 minutes ago, defari said:
He hasn't been on in a month. I already miss his posts...
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This can be milled out regardless with a long enough cutter but finding an end mill, etc. long enough is the issue. I've heard of 12" end mill cutters, and I'm presuming someone somewhere makes them longer but you may still need to hit it from both sides which makes it more of a pain for alignment.
For the reason above, I only ended up enlarging my head to 10mm. My S1 RB25 passages look identical to yours. I'm presuming it was slightly off in certain castings.
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6 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:
He wants pretty titanium ones.
Oh.. right he did say that in his original post. I should read before commenting.
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All these parts can be purchased at your local Nissan dealership over here in Canada, is it not the same elsewhere?
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On 5/10/2023 at 9:46 PM, Duncan said:
hahaha true, they sound like the car is falling apart rattling around
how was the wear on the spiggot bush that was not engaging correctly? good choice to fix it but I'm wondering if it would have been OK....
Due to such little surface area between the input shaft and pilot bushing, it had already began chewing it up. I don't believe It would have lasted much longer then 6 months.
Haha I remember the first time I started the car and pushed in my clutch pefal and said ohh that's not so bad.... Then I drove it and first heard the lovely chatter. My neighbor's must think the cars broken.-
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Nothing very interesting to report. I've just been street tuning and breaking it in slowly. I'd like to drive it around another 1000km's or so and do another oil change before hitting the dyno. This has given me time to fix a few issues that have come up though.
1. My intake cam was leaking oil ever so slightly. Traced it back to the cam seal, it was completely torn... I must of given it one to many wacks during install. Surprised it wasn't leaking more.
2. My VCT cam gear decided to make a god awful sound for roughly 10 minutes while driving/idling, not long after removing it to replace the above mentioned cam seal. Has not come back and VCT is still operating properly. I'll keep an eye on it. I had read this occasionally happens but I wish I could better understand exactly what causes the noise.
3. When originally popping in my pilot bushing, I noticed it was slightly looser then what I'm use to seeing. At the time I went ahead and popped the transmission on anyways. About three weeks ago, a realization came to mind of what if while installing my trans, the input shaft gripped the side of the pilot bearing a tad and drove it in further then it should be. I pondered for a week and finally after realizing I was losing sleep over it, I pulled the trans. Hold and behold, it was sitting as deep as it could in my crank. The input shaft was only making contact on roughly 4mm of the bushing and was already eating it up. I'm very happy I pulled it off... I drove in a new slightly larger pilot bushing with retaining compound to be extra safe.
By the way, this probably goes without saying but the low end torque between a 2.8 and my old 20det is night and day... Having ran a supercharged 5.5L just prior, the 20det was very underwhelming under 4-5K. I know I've also mentioned it before but god damn double plate clutches sound terrible... Makes a spun bearing sound fantastic. Lucky it only sounds horrid when in low gear/low rpm.
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You'll need a top mount manifold. Turbo choice will depend on what power you're chasing and stay far away from maxspeedingrods products.
Lack of Communications from RB Oriented Shops
in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)
Posted
I brought it in for a Nismo GT LSD and Speedtek 3.33 gear install. Had it not been for the pinion shaft removal, I would have done it myself.
I was stuck at work late but I plan on visiting them tomorrow. I'm confident I'll report back tomorrow with another funny story.