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TurboTapin

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Posts posted by TurboTapin

  1. Wrapped up the wiring for my meth injection kit last weekend. Just have running and fault feedback to wire into my ecu left. This weekend I welded on my wastegate flanges and installed my EGT's.

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    Quality control at 6boost has gone down a tad. Wastegate provisions needed some work, angle was all wrong compared to the past two manifolds I've had and the supplied studs were overly plated and required some removal to be used. 

    • Like 1
  2. Wrapped up my cold side piping and most of my meth injection kit. I just have the wiring in the trunk left to do. 

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    I also ended up receiving my 6466. Went with a twin scroll 1.0 T4. I'm not a fan of Precision not making wheel maps public, and have always been hesitant in the past to purchase from them because of it, but here I am. I am surprised of its small package though. I was expecting the compressor housing to be much larger. It's a tad smaller than the HY35 Holset I had on my RB20. 

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  3. Small update. Finished up the front brakes. Happy how the rotors fill out the wheels. I allso received my 6Boost manifold and AEM V3 WMI kit. Worked on a little more intercooler piping as well. 

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    6Boost seems to have updated their manifolds. Flange and pipe routing is different, and it's not painted with BBQ paint anymore which I appreciate. Sadly, I had ordered 3/16 EGT's and the manifold was supplied with 1/4" EGT bungs. I can still make this work, but I also noticed the EGT's I ordered are ridiculously long... so may just replace them all together. 

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    I'm on vacation this week so can hopefully wrap up the Water/Meth Kit install and weld on the wastegate flanges. 

    • Like 4
  4. Just wanted to add to two things to this post.

    Concerning the speed input, originally the R32 cluster outputs 2450Pulses at 60KM's to the ECU, Hicas CU, etc. I recalibrated my Haltech GPS speed sensor to output the same and wired it to the same wire behind the cluster. I also adjusted my ecu accordingly. I have yet to fully test this as the car is not drivable for another month or two but I'm confident it should work. 

    As for the battery light, there's no mention of also adding a resistor. A LED will not pull enough amps to excite your alternator. 

  5. Parts have been rolling in. 6Boost manifold should also arrive next week which will allow me to continue with the engine. It's a long weekend here so I'll work on my front brakes. 

    I'll be going with 350z track edition Brembo's, StopTech 12.5" rotors and Hawk HPS pads. Calipers are both remanufactured and first thing to do will be to paint them and smack a Brembo logo on them for added bling. 

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    There's a few writeup of it. I was originally planning on drilling out my hubs for the larger M14 caliper bolts but the idea of using M14/M12 Time Sert's never crossed my mind until I saw this DIY.

    R32 Skyline – Budget Brembo Brake Upgrade | GoodeZilla

     

    • Like 1
  6. 9 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

    What do you mean "converted with hemi heads"?

    Let's make a few points.

    • I'll presume you do not mean "hemi" as in "Hemi"....ie Chrysler heads. That's what a lot of people would mean when they say "hemi heads".
    • I know and totally understand that the concept of hemi heads is much wider than that. Example such as ALFA twin cams going back to the 50s spring to mind, amongst hundreds of others.
    • Are you aware that there's not really any such thing as a 4 valve hemi combustion chamber? Have you ever seen one? There isn't room to fit 4 valves in. That is is why 4 valve heads are all pentroof design (or some variation thereof).
    • 4 valves provide more valve/port area than 2 valve heads do, which is why they exist.
    • Going backwards from 4 valve pentroof, to hemi 2 valve seems.....backwards.

    Please oh please be Chrysler Hemi heads. 

    • Haha 4
  7. 22 hours ago, hattori hanzo said:

    I lost nothing going to a 1.15 and did just over 600kw on E85 so you should be fine

     

    I am actually moving to a smaller 6062 turbo shortly if you want to buy my 6466 with a .84 and 1.15 housing, it was rebuilt by precision in america in feb this year, been used about twice since.

    I am going smaller as i am doing more rallysprint style stuff these days, and can get alot more down low and 500kw from a 6062 which is what we need for rallysprint.

     

    Thanks for the info. I would buy it from you but I'm presuming you're not anywhere close to Canada and shipping would put your price into new turbo territory. 6466's are had here for 2650$CDN new to the door. Let me know, thanks. 

    • Like 1
  8. 12 hours ago, BK said:

    Technically 4.

    3 at top, one on bottom. A fresh air vent on bottom is just a hose that can connect to nothing as an atmosphere breather. Top has 3 ports - one to fuel tank vent, one post throttle (boost and vacuum) and one pre throttle (no vacuum, boost only). On RB26 this is at the AAC chamber top front nipple and throttle body cylinder 1 and 2 assembly nipple near stock fuel reg location.

    These need to be correctly connected at the canister as there is a diaphragm inbuilt to control operation.

    Always wondered how these worked as I knew they had different part# between turbo and non turbo but look identical and connect to the same areas. I'm presuming on turbo models when there's pressure from throttle body hose, it stops purging. What about non turbo models? 

    • Like 1
  9. Bringing this bad boy thread back from the dead. I'm just about to purchase a 6466 and I'm also stuck between ordering a .84 or a 1.0. 

    I was leaning towards a 1.0ar but being that I'll be running on pump gas + meth as opposed to E85, I'm worried about spool. This is on a 2.8 with VCT, 272 cams and a fair bit of porting. Goal is 600wkw on a mainline dyno.

  10. Wrapped up a lot of odd ends over the last two weeks. Installed my one-piece driveshaft, wrapped up all engine and transmission wiring, tested all IO and DBW. For whatever reason, outsider garage bumped up the throttle body adapter bolts from M6 to M8's which required drilling out my magnus adapter. I had originally purchased a Taarks adapter that I sadly destroyed trying to get it to work due to a difference in design.

    Completed my clutch hydraulics (R33 Master with Z33 slave). The slave required ever so slight material removal for it not to interfere with the transmission adapter plate. 

    Only wiring I'll have left is for the Meth injection kit. I'm waiting it out hoping Haltech updates firmware's to allow IC7 inputs to be read from an Elite ecu. I'm really trying to avoid purchasing an IO expander. One less thing to go wrong. Tomorrow I'll dump my old gas and scale my IC7 fuel level then start working on the intercooler piping. Going 3" hot, and 3"/3.5" cold. I also need to start looking for a proper BOV. The last vent to atmosphere BOV I had was on my 93 wrx 14+ years ago. I've only ran DV's since. My inner child is excited to hear Psssshhh again.  

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    • Like 7
  11. On 9/12/2022 at 10:12 PM, sachin said:

    Currently in the process off building a rb25 engine but for some reason my rb25 block doesn’t have the vct oil feed plan is to put a rb25de head on it with the vct oil port can anyone tell me or give any advice to if it can work and what do I need to doo?

     

    NEO's did not have an external VCT drain like the S1/S2's. I also recall the NEO heads having chamber differences. With that being said, I'm not confident you can bolt an S1/S2 head onto a NEO block but wait for someone who's more knowledgeable on the topic to chime in. 

  12. On 9/2/2022 at 1:58 AM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

    Looking real good bro!

    Also love it when I see DBW used, it bothers me seeing big dollar builds and owners use conventional throttles with the OEM leaky valves to control idle.

    Thanks! Yea I'm big on doing things right the first time and will also be using all the safety features available as well. (EGT's, WMI Monitoring, etc.) 

    While on the topic, I hate when people spend big dollar on builds or wire tucks but while going through their electrical, you spot wires twisted and taped instead of soldered or crimped, shielding not used or done improperly, incorrect wire gauge, wires extended so long you get excessive voltage drop, etc. 

    • Like 2
  13. I've been slowly wrapping up odd ends. Finished up the fuel lines. Using both original 5/16 lines as feed merging into an 8an soft line on both ends and added a 3/8 hardline and 6an soft as return. 

    Took my driveshaft measurements and sent those out, custom shaft should arrive soon. Also ordered another 6Boost manifold... this being my third I figured why change now. Last big purchase before starting it up should be my turbo. I'm still leaning towards a Precision 6466 but not 100% sold on it yet.

    While I wait for parts, I'm continuing the wiring. First time Haltech user and I'm really not impressed with the lack of IO testing capabilities...

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    • Like 2
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