TurboTapin

It's a 14pin Consult connector. You can use software like Nissan Datascan (NDS 1) to connect.

Hey! Happy to help. Nothing inherently wrong with the adapter, it's more so with Brett Collins himself. He gave me a lot of incorrect information when I was in contact with him and was extremely rude when I challenged him. He stated I could not use any aftermarket twin plate clutches except for his own, not to use the dush shield, bla bla bla and it was all BS. Collins stated to cut roughly 14mm's off the housing, I took off 15mm to make room for the dust shield. I would confirm with whatever adapter manufacturer you're using.

Yes, unfortunately that's the one. Signal was noisy to begin with; after driving once and looking back at the logs I saw pressure constantly swinging between 0-200psi, or staying at 0 randomly for a few seconds. There's a lot of good sensors that share the same look and feel, so don't presume they're all bad. I bought mine for 20$ off Amazon and I should have read the reviews prior, as it's clear they're junk. I purchased a lowdollerr motorsports sensor.

Let large companies that are making money off selling kits do the preliminary engineering for you. If they all do -10, then that is all you'll ever need.

I wasn't aware the GKTech bushings changed the placement of the subframe. What improvements did you see?

Yes, I had ordered the spherical bushings at the same time as the rest. I have high hopes for the anti squat reduction kit.

Perfect, I'll get to it this winter then at the same time as I weld on my anti squat kit.

lol already been put in temporarily 3 years ago

That's incorrect. We have 4 seasons, consisting of pre winter, winter, post winter and a small glimpse of hope!

I came into the garage to notice yet again, a couple drops of what seems to be molasses leaking from my right rear wheel well. I originally figured I ran something over and that it was harmless but this time I decided to check, as it was becoming repetitive. It's clearly leaking from the bushing. Not my picture, but this sucker right here. I've never actually seen this in all my years of driving. Our cars aren't getting any younger. I already have GKtech bushings on the shelf, but was hoping to push the work to winter. Once she's blows, is it still doing anything?

A few random issues have popped up since my last update. My WMI pressure sensor failed within about 10 minutes of it seeing liquid. It was a 20$ China special, so I'm not surprised. My name brand replacement should arrive today. My power steering assist also decided to crap out last weekend. The usual, works for about 60 seconds after starting the car then I lose it. I dusted off my old copy of NDS and connected to the HICAS ECU. Code 4 for assist solenoid.... I tested the solenoid and it's fine. I knew the day where my HICAS ecu would crap out would come, and I welcome it. It was the last HICAS part on the car that is now in the bin. I've ordered an SSR and I will control the power steering solenoid with my Haltech ecu. It will be nice to have proper speed referenced assist again after all these years.

Haha I just finished the last season of TPB: Jail last month. I'm happy they're still pumping out episodes.

We want to see pictures of the carnage!

The picture of the underside of that PCB shows either old flux that wasn't cleaned properly or some other contaminant (I.E Water). I would flush it with ISO and try again.

Haha good old Letterkenny! If you're looking for another great english canadian comedy, I strongly recommend Trailer Park Boys.

I live in a French European province, within a very metric country. We hate football here and the statue of liberty was actually built in France haha. Sadly, we're currently also feuding hard with the US due to tariffs. The US is the US. Everywhere else, is everywhere else.

I know -_- Oddly enough I went to a car show this weekend and not a single person made any mention of Nitrous... I did have to argue with a know it all that was convinced I had an RB26 head with HKS V-Cam as opposed to a regular VCT RB25 head, but what do I know. I think my HKS oil cap was throwing him off.

That seems like a lot more work than just using a second jack under a front tow hook to raise it enough to get another jack under it.

They're wonderful when only used to lift your car up an inch so a real jack fits under your front lip. Besides that, I've only ever used them on the side of the road. We call them widow makers here. Unfortunately, like I mentioned in another post, ramps are not an option for me due to generally working on my car once my kids are asleep. Cold starts, 4" exhaust and sleep rarely go well together. I honestly find using ramps a hell of a lot more work than what I'm currently doing anyways.

They are in fact just nozzles. They are there only to produce a spray pattern and limit flow. The injector itself is what I use to control flow to the 7x nozzles. My old system had no injector and only PWM the pump. This lead to a lot of inconsistencies, and poor atomization at low pressure when the pump was ramping up.

Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two. To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line. This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front. I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures. Wish me luck on the dyno!

So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's. I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close. Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat.

Even Phillips screws here are now mostly a hybrid that allow Robertson to also fit into it. They have accepted defeat haha. @GTSTBOY

Robertson was a Canadian inventor, and it absolutely reigns supreme here. 95% of our screws are Roberston. It's literally the only option you can buy off store shelves. What would it have lost out too? I believe it's also very popular in the US. My reference to imperial was pointed to both NPT and BSP.

I live in Quebec. Our license plate slogan is "Je me souviens" Translated is "We will remember" as a reminder to when England conquered us and that we must never forget what they did. Long story short, BSP is unheard of here due to being an English design. I'm surprised our nazi anti english government office the OQLF hasn't kicked in my door yet just talking about it, yet alone imperial anything.