TurboTapin

For these last 7 years of ownership, I've always had to use a small scissor jack under one of the front tow hooks to raise the front just enough so my low-profile jack fits under to reach my subframe jack point. I'm beginning to get annoyed of always having to do this. Are there any lower low-profile jacks that fit under the gtr lip on a dropped car?

What a time to be alive!!

I second this.

I'm a strong believer that old sports cars should be reserved as weekend cars and owned by mechanically inclined people. The risk-reward ratio is only acceptable under those conditions.

With 10% Ethanol, we're talking 2-3% fuel consumption difference. The emissions reductions and octane boost in my opinion far outweigh this almost non existent loss. My tanks sitting at 80%. Luckily that should go down fast as I'm on vacation again for the next two weeks.

It's funny how 10-15 years ago, almost all new cars being sold were "Flex Fuel" when Ethanol wasn't around. Now that we have Ethanol in everything, Flex fuel vehicles have pretty much disappeared. Great timing.

The E10 adds octane, not the other way around. Our 94AKI E10 is roughly 101RON.

I can't speak for the US, but for Canada as I mentioned above, all fuel gases contain ethanol. We have regulations for E5/E10/E15. Each province handles it differently but basically any fuel gases sold must be E10 and slowly increasing to E15 by a certain year.

Canada: 87, 89, 91 AKI everywhere. 94 AKI at all Petro Canada pumps. USA: Depending on the state they will have either 87, 89 and 93 AKI or 87, 89, 91 AKI. They also have a fair bit of E85, again dependent on the state you're in. USA Gas Fun Fact: It's outlawed to pump your own gas in the state of New Jersey.

Sadly no. They get pump E85, we don't.

Haha fair question. For two reasons. 1. Once I'm done migrating my water/methanol system over from pre-TB to direct port, I'll be hitting the dyno again. I also plan on trying Ignite E98 race fuel at the same time. I could not be bothered with emptying the tank every time, so anything between E70-E98 I'll be happy with. "Race" fuels are very expensive vs pump E85, so if I grow annoyed of paying, I may also just cross the border to fill a barrel and keep it in the garage. 2. Quebec is slowly increasing all pump fuels from E10 -> E15 by 2030. My daily fuel is 100RON + Water/Methanol and this will have an impact over the years.

Thanks everyone for the responses. Our fuel in Quebec is all E10 by law. We do not have any other options. I know in the US, E85 has a wide tolerance (~51-85%) and I had presumed E10 would also have a slight tolerance but to some peoples point... if it's regulated by law then more effort must be put in to keep it at 10%. I'm thinking I'm just going to remove my sensor, cap an end and fill it with different fuels I have in the shed for my lawn tractor, power toys, etc. They are all lower octane and from different vendors. I'm presuming if I still see no variance from 11% after that, then I can conclude the sensor is no bueno. Your sensor reads down to .1%'s? I recall mine only reading 0-100%. I'll check in my ecu tonight in case I didn't scale it properly.

Quick question for you fine folks who see more ethanol in your tanks. I installed my ethanol content sensor last year. It reads temperature fine and at the time was reading 11% which I found normal for our E10 fuel over here. Issue is, since last year, I've never once seen it read anything but 11%. I always use the same gas, from the same gas station so I was telling myself it was normal... but I'm starting to have doubts. I would have expected to see some sort of variation by now. Unfortunately, it's not as easy as just trying another pump as the 94AKI (~100RON) fuel I run is only offered by one retailer.

Be certain not to purchase your Tomei head gasket from an North American distributer. Tomei USA and Tomei JPN are not comparable. I have cheap PRP 1.5mm restrictors if you need, they're collecting dust.

Have you gotten under the car to look for anything that can rattle? I bet you it's a heat shield.

If you're really into oil, here's a youtube channel I watch a fair bit. It's literally just about motor oil haha The Motor Oil Geek - YouTube

On a cold engine, those numbers look more then fine to me.

I've also heard good things about the Mazworks. Does it center the shifter properly like milling the bell housing does? The serial 9 shifter takes some time to get use to. It's hard to blame the shifter though, by design 5 and 6 on a CD009 are very close to 3rd and forth. It's very easy to shift into 3rd instead of 5th.

I had the same issue come up on the weekend. It was a pain to push the new stopper back in!

Haha luckily we don't have emissions, inspections, or any laws against power adders here. They only thing they somewhat keep an eye out for are ridiculously loud exhausts.

I finally got around to completing my WMI SS direct port tubing. I ordered a snow performance 6 port manifold but it seems they are now owned by Nitrous Express. It has the NX logo on both sides. I'm expecting this to lead to a lot of unwanted nitrous questions 😅

Your local Nissan dealership should always be your first go to. Get your parts from the source, without the middle man. I also recommend you start an account at your dealership, I get 15% off with mine. You would be appalled with some of the mark ups I see from third party distributors (200%+)

If ever you have any other questions, reply to one of my messages so I get the notification. I only saw your message now. Cheers!

Driveline vibration is resolved. I ended up loosening all my engine mount and trans mount bolts, giving it a good shake then retightening everything and it's gone... Let's just say I was surprised that fixed it. I've been happily driving it around again but unfortunately put zero time into my direct port/constant pressure WMI setup. I'm on vacation next week, so I'll try and finalize it then. On a different note, I spent all week fuel/ignition mapping 2x 216L V16 engines. Turbo's were burning glycol and we swapped them out for larger units. We also had planned emissions testing on site, so I figured I'd be there the same week to use their instrumentation and massage any emissions issues out if needed. This was a first for me. Fuel management is similar in certain ways to automotive (i.e air density as load variable) but very different in others. It's all PLC based and AFR's are controlled by air and not fuel. They use a control valve between the turbo and air manifold to control pressure which in turn controls AFR's. Due to this, target AFR tables supplied by the OEM are in pressures and not mass which really through me off. They use air pressure vs fuel pressure tables. I also relied on an O2 concentration sensor the emissions team had in the exhaust. Ignition timing was also all over the place and we were losing a fair bit of power. They're now happily sitting at 16-40BTDC depending on load. We were making about 1600kw at 900rpm at 90% load. Engines were running a lot smoother as well.

I welcome any basic question that can help haha. Yes it has 2 unis but the driveshaft is a one piece and the unis are welded without a slip yoke at each end. What's funny is anytime I've ever had wheel vibrations it's always been in the front so I automatically assume it will lead to steering wheel shake and not chassis vibration. With that being said, I never considered looking at my rear wheel balance... I have doubts though as this wasn't an issue before I pulled the motor and trans but is still very much worth a look. I'll do that tonight after work. Thanks.