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Everything posted by TurboTapin

  1. I searched and could not seem to find much. Is anyone running a GKTech's R32 weld in anti squat reduction kit? I was curios to know what people thought of the placement and steel gauge? Thanks. S13 240sx/R32 Skyline subframe anti-squat reduction weld in kit (gktech.com)
  2. That is the thermoswitch connector that controls the ac(overheat) fan, not the fan motor itself. The jumper is there so the fan runs constantly. Do not put it back. What's the condition of your rad, shroud and rad fan? This may have been done to test your ac fan or alleviate overheating issues but that's a seperate issue.
  3. Have not seen many electrical tools mentioned so here are two I like. I'll see what else I can come up with. 1. Connecter depinning tools. I often see people stabbing away with a flat screwdriver only to crack and destroy their old connectors. 2. Cable tie gun. This will tighten and cut cable ties in one shot. Very practical and quick when you have 100's to do.
  4. There's a few things on that fuse with the highest load being the AC condenser fan. Take a look at the electrical drawings.
  5. Was back in the garage today. Started off with the installation of my Nitto head drain. Installation is pretty straight forward. Knocked the welch plug out. Drilled 13/64 and tapped M6x1. Cleaned it out thoroughly afterwards. As per the instructions, I put oil resistant gasket maker on the drain and thread sealant on the bolts and tightened it up. Lastly my driveway is on a slant so I cannot push cars up into the garage. I installed a winch in the garage to pull in any cars that can't move under their own power (engineless, etc.) or that are equipped with summer tires in the winter. Skyline got stuck in the driveway last winter when I pulled it out to do an oil change on my daily driver... When it came time to drive it back in, tires would just spin on the ice/snow. Had to wait 2 days, and get two of my neighbors to help push it in. I don't want this happening again... I had to weld up a bracket and punch in 4x studs into the cement but came out great. I'll be using my lawn tractor battery as it serves no purpose in the winter.
  6. Agreed. With so many options of what it could be (Washer fluid, blinker fluid, tinniest meth injection kit, etc.) it would have been great to be able to trace it one foot further to its destination but unfortunately OP's trunk must not open.
  7. Little update, finished my external fuel pump harness. I'll label it tomorrow.
  8. Project has been stalled due to ARP fasteners being on global backorder. Was lucky to find main studs in the UK and head studs in Australia. I'll be dropping off my block at the machinist after the holidays. Received a few other things as well. Worked on my radium fuel pump hanger this morning. I was originally running one AEM 340LPH, I'll be reusing that one and running a staged second. Hanger can accommodate three pumps but I do not have a need for the third. Pulled my oem hanger and removed the fuel level and low level sensors off. Sensors installed on new hanger. Finishing up the internal wiring. Hanger setup complete. Was pleased with the quality and ease of setting this up. Getting it back in wasn't pleasant though... Very tight fit. Anger gets shit done. I put the original hoses back on temporarily just to get it in and out of the garage if needed but I will be running new hard lines soon with flexible 8an ends. Slowly working on the exterior wiring now... I forgot to bring my wire labeler home from work.
  9. I've heard of this practice before and it is an excellent idea but instead I've always just pulled the plugs and injector fuse and cranked until I see pressure prior to first start. So far this has always worked for me on new builds or motors that have sat for a long time. Thanks for the heads up though Duncan! Cheers.
  10. See this thread. It explains it perfectly. Exhaust Mainfold | Skyline Owners Forum Picture of RB25 elbow gasket on RB20 turbo elbow for comparison. Both the size and flange are different. As @GTSBoy has already mentioned though, it can be made to fit. I would just open up the flange with a die grinder and drill out the bolt holes so they match up.
  11. Forgot to mention, I did measure crank nose to inner gear clearance. I did find it a tad loose but the old one had the same clearance and the service manual does not mention a need to verify this. .46mm total clearance or .23mm each side. Double checked it with feeler gauge.
  12. Got around to finishing my oil pump. Started by comparing the old and new gear set for "Science" and peace of mind. Old and new inner gear I.D. Nearly identical. Old and new outer gear O.D. Nearly identical. Old and new outer gear thickness. Identical. Old and new inner gear stub O.D. Nearly identical. Both OEM and PRP gear sizes were basically identical. Moving on, I verified tolerances as per service manual. Measurement #1 - Outer gear to housing clearance. .152mm was a go, .203mm was a no go. It's within specs. Skipped measurement #2 as it's a new gear set. Measurement #3 & #4. .152mm was a no go. I did not have anything thinner but I see a small gap so will assume this is within spec. I was happy with the measurements and moved on with assembly. Measurement #5 is not pictured. Cleaned bolts thoroughly for proper Loctite adhesion, oiled gears and housing and knocked out the old seal. I then assembled the pump without Loctite to verify fit. The gears did not bind on anything and turned freely. Lastly I assembled with Loctite and torqued to spec. I added an extra 2nm for peace of mind. I mark each screw with a paint marker after I've torqued it. This is also useful in the future to verify if any of the fasteners have backed out. Pumps now ready to party!
  13. Correct, they are not the same. An RB20 compressor outlet does not bolt onto an RB25 turbo.
  14. Had a bit of time so I worked on my valve covers. Wanted to plug the pcv valve hole and paint them. I started with disassembly. Next up was cutting out a piece of aluminum to block the port and welding. I had a few beers but it came out alright. Lastly tossed a couple coats of gold on them. Should match my PRP CAS bracket pretty well. I also received my PRP RB25/RB26 billet oil pump gears today. Took the time tonight to clean out my old pump so it's ready for verification/installation tomorrow.
  15. RB20 and RB25 turbo inlets are not interchangeable. I've never heard of someone modifying one to fit but everything is possible.
  16. Perfect, understood! Thanks. I unfortunately just found out most if not all ARP products are on national backorder. My main studs and most likely my head studs as well will only arrive in February. I just spam emailed every company between Canada and Australia to see if anyone has them in stock. If not, I'm probably going to order my diff now so I can continue working on something while I wait.
  17. I used these in my older H3C R32 lights and they fit perfectly with zero modifications. They also look fantastic with no glare. Highly recommend them. H3 LED CONVERSION KIT | HIDNation.com
  18. First I hear about the front geometry issues I'll definitely have some questions for you when the time comes. As for drivetrain and rear, the plan is a CD00A, beefier shaft and axles and a 1.5 diff. So far I'm presuming the R200 housing and stubs will suffice but I need to look into it more. Thoughts?
  19. They sell both 81mm and 77mm diameter gears for regular or n1 pumps. My pump doesn't have many km's but I'll verifiy clearances prior. I think I'm going to try the 81mm gears in my RB25 pump.
  20. I'll never drive it in the winter! I can barely drive it in my driveway with snow, let alone on public streets haha. Thanks, more updates coming soon.
  21. Hey, thanks! Happy you like it. I'll update rather often. Tend to work on it every weekend or so. Cheers.
  22. Now just waiting for my ARP main bolts to arrive so I can drop off the block at my machinist. Once machining is done I'll be able to start putting everything together. ARP bolts seem to be on backorder everywhere. I'm hoping it doesn't slow everything down too long. Meanwhile I've been keeping busy with other smaller things that need to get done. I got a wicked deal on a new still in sealed box Haltech Elite 2500 and R32 adapter harness. Guy was asking 2300$ for both, which is about 1000$ off retail. Here I was just flashing it with the new NSP firmware that came out about a week ago. I've been getting accustomed with the platform. Very different compared to nistune. Volumetric efficiency is very new to me but wow this seems simple to tune... Very happy with the purchase and all the different features. Due to my career path and love of software/electrical design the ecu and electrical is what I always geek out the most about on builds. I have a lot of other Haltech parts on the way now. I've always opted for stock ecu software in the past and never had a full blown standalone. Very exciting! Yes that's a mug my wife got me with my car on it. Love that mug lol.
  23. After accepting the fact that this build was now going to cost double, I moved forward. I could now aim for more power anyways... more power is always good. First step was to build the head. I went with all new Ferrea parts and buckets. While I was waiting for the parts, I dropped off the head at TK Race heads, a local shop to actually professionally port it. He put 6h of porting into it, it's mild but at least it's done properly and will now flow evenly. By the time he was done, the parts finally arrived and he assembled it. Head is done, short of 272 vct Kelford cams but those will be ordered at a later date. Next was the block. Engine had originally met its demise due to a ring land letting go. I never planned on reusing the pistons or rods, but also now needed a new crank since the one supplied was toast. I figured I might as well stroke it now while I'm at it. I ordered Spool I beam rods with .250 wrist pins and L19 hardware, 9:1 CP Pistons and a Spool 2.8L billet stroker crank. Received everything about two weeks ago.
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