TurboTapin

I ran one years ago in a 93 STI. They work great. Just slowly increase duty cycle until it reaches the pressure you're trying to achieve. Nobody will be able to tell you the exact duty cycle % you need for your setup for a specific boost. It will be trial and error.

AEM products are fantastic in my opinion and I have pushed to use them the last 20 years. Their fuel pumps are renowned for being indestructible (I run 2x), their ecu's have a lot more features then Haltech (Scripting, Proper IO testing, etc.) I've had zero issues with any of their products including Tru boost, widebands, WMI kits, etc. I wasn't ever aware of them being known for bad products, but if they did; it's changed.

That makes a lot of sense. Thanks.

I have no reason not to believe you, but I am curious. What hump?

Great point and I think the same.

I always presumed they shared the same carpet but I just looked in EPC and they do in fact have a different part# and price tag. Learn something new everyday.

Stock ECU or did you end up popping in that Haltech Platinum? I'm presuming the latter, if so have you set up your output, boost maps, etc.?

I reread his comment about 10x and have yet to see how it could be misconstrued as unhelpful.

Sounds like steel flexing with heat. Check your heatshield over your exhaust manifold to see if it's still bolted in properly.

The whine did end up being an issue. After driving the car again around 60-80km/h, the sound was deafening. Popped the diff back off and dropped it off at my assemblers to verify. Took them awhile to figure out why it was making noise, but they finally realized the crown wheel had pretty bad run out. After many weeks of back and forth with Speedtek, they finally agreed to ship out a replacement. That technically should have been latest yesterday, but I still don't have a tracking number... so I'll continue to poke them and wait. I need to put the car in storage no later than Nov 30th due to winter tire laws. I'm hoping I can get the parts and the diff reassembled before then. Unless a miracle happens, I also think it's fair to say I'm not getting this thing on a dyno this year. I am considering renting a trailer to haul it to a dyno in the winter months if needed though.

Pig your lines with any appropriately sized rifle/shotgun cleaning kit. As for the cooler, as mentioned, there are many companies that can clean it out if it's actually worth something. If it's a cheap ebay 150$ cooler, toss it.

Haltech had sent out a survey about a year ago. One of the questions was something along the lines of "What do you think of the name IC10 for our next display" So I also think a 10" screen is coming out next.

If you have E85 available at the pump, that would be my go to option. If you don't, like us in Canada then WMI becomes very interesting and is safe to use with proper integration and safeties setup.

Unfortunately, that it is. I'm not happy about it nor should it happen but hopefully they quickly ship out a replacement without a hassle.

My assembler finally figured out why it was making noise as he was adamant it was assembled properly. The pinion has 3 thou of runout... said he's never seen that before and wasn't impressed. He actually fell on it by accident. At this point I'm not even mad anymore... it's actually starting to get funny. Now I have to wait for Speedtek to send out a replacement and get it assembled once again. This diff sure is costing me a lot of time and money. @Dose Pipe Sutututu 40$K you wanted for that diff? That's a steal!

Precision presented their new next gen 6466 yesterday. It's now rated to 1000hp vs the gen 2's 900hp rating. It's now available with either the S or HP cover. They mention that the cover has flow enhancements and I'm wondering if they will release the enhanced HP cover for the gen2's.

Speedtek's after sales support started very strong, but fizzled out in the end. They were originally quick to answer and stated they would assist me with correcting the issue they saw in my gear tooth pattern after I sent pictures. They even mentioned sending documentation. Then it was radio silence. I was in somewhat of a hurry as my diff place stated they wouldn't work on it again without some info from Speedtek. After a few emails and attempted calls, I did manage to speak to someone on their Facebook page; 4 days later. He seemed annoyed with the questions and answered the minimum amount and then stated "It's basic diff building, anyone can do it". I figured at this point, I'll call it quits with the technical support and send the info I do have and the R32 diff assembly manual to my assembler. I'm all for giving people a chance, but I'm annoyed they didn't assemble it properly the first time and I want to spoon feed them everything they could possibly need so it's not repeated.

I have no issues with my single piece driveshaft but I did muck about with my motor mounts to get a perfect +2, -2 degree's between trans and diff. Mind you, as I'm breaking my motor in amongst other things, I have not got over 120kmh.

Lol inching closer and closer to taking you up on that offer. Speedtek got back to me and has been a great help. I showed them the gear marking compound and they said it's close but not perfect and to stop driving it. I'm going to pull it out this morning. Thanks everyone for the input. The diff saga continues ...

I figured it would have to come off again but I was trying to lie to myself about it. I'll contact the shop and drop it off before the weekend. Possibly through their front window. Fun fun...

Gear pattern, pinion depth, etc. was set. Gear had the usual yellow gear marking compound. Everything is new in the diff. I put oil in it prior to reinstall. I'm just wondering as you break in a new ring and pinion set, if the whining is normal. I've had new LSD's before but never an aftermarket ring and pinion and I don't know what to expect. I'm waiting on a response from speedtek as well.

I installed my rebuilt diff earlier today. Nismo GT 1.5 LSD and Speedtek Billet 3.3 Ring & Pinion. It whines rather bad on acceleration and is much worst above 60kmh. No noise when my foot is off the pedal. So far, I've driven it 30 minutes with a few hours cooldown in between. Will it get better as it breaks in? or are we looking at pulling the diff and bringing it back to the assembler for verification? I waited over 3 months to get my diff back, I'm not too thrilled about having to bring it back.

Haha fun times ahead! I got around to installing it this morning. I've driven it twice now for roughly 30 minutes and letting it cool a few hours in-between. The diff is whining rather loud on acceleration, no noise on decel. It gets substantially worst past 60kmh. I contacted Speedtek to see if the noise is possibly normal during break in as I've only ever ran OEM ring and pinion sets. I'm not to hopeful though. I'm presuming pinion depth issues, but I hope I'm wrong. I'll be pissed if It has to come off again...

Well it's a Christmas miracle! I finally got my differential back, 16 weeks later.... I chronicled it in another thread but long story short, first shop took it apart and it took them 2.5 months to finally inform me they have no idea wtf they're doing. Just to recap, it's a Speedtek 3.33 billet final gear and Nismo GT LSD. They brought it to another shop that I know well from way back and it took them a month and they apologized a few times and stated they had to prioritize some promod clients with blown motors. I appreciated the honesty after dealing with the other place... all they did was spew lies. While the car was out over summer, I took the opportunity to work on a few non critical items. I replaced my front tension rods as the pillow balls were just about due. I removed the entirety of my hicas system. I was running the two original 5/16" fuel lines as feed and I had added a 3/8 aluminum line for return. I went ahead and removed that aluminum line and used one of my old hicas lines going to the back. I left the other hicas line as well as a spare. Finessed my WMI system and a few other little things. I'll more then likely pop it back in tomorrow night. I'll be happy to drive it after all this time. I just need to schedule a day for an alignment and dyno session.

Confirmation of non OEM pistons and rods could easily be done by popping a sparkplug out to verify piston top and oil pan to confirm rods. You could also probably just fiddle with a borescope through your oil drain actually without even removing the pan.