TurboTapin

Car has been running great, I've put about 300km's of break in time on it. First thing that stands out with properly sealing rings is no more noticeable crankcase smell coming out of my catch can. This may seem insignificant, but the constant smell while driving around was infuriating. It's also nice to see my oil level remain stable. Two new issues have developed that I only noticed this weekend though. There's a very noticeable driveline vibration past 100kmh. I only noticed it now as I've been babying it under 100kmh in the backroads. This comes as no surprise as I'm running a one-piece shaft, and I paid zero attention to my driveshaft angle when I put everything back in. I also have a fair bit of voltage drop on hot starts. The starter audibly is forcing. No issues on cold start though. I must not have removed all the paint under my main block ground during assembly. I'll try and take care of both those issues this week once the kids are asleep. I also received all the parts I was missing for my direct port setup. I will hopefully have pictures of that up soon. I'm hoping to get back on the dyno the week of June 30th as I'll be on vacation. I'm confident I should be able to make north of 500rwkw on pump gas and WMI. I'll go back again later this summer with E98, but I want to confirm my ethanol content sensor is working properly first. I've never seen it read anything but 11%. This makes sense for our 10% ethanol content pump gas here, but I would expect the occasional movement between fill ups.

The SS button head cap screw on the back? If so, good to know. I presumed it was there for basic assembly and nothing more.

New or used transmission? Alignment will be the same with engine running or not. If new, i'm presuming it's a clutch release bearing size issue. If used, are you certain it's a CD009/A and not an older CD008 or less? They had known synchro issues. In my opinion, these transmissions should always be purchased new, they're dirt cheap and you avoid dealing with old revisions.

And here I am purposely injecting water into my engine for the steams haha

I've also been eyeing their rear axles for my car. I purchased seat mounts from them about 7 years ago and they were hot garbage so I've been a little wary about purchasing them. With that being said, please buy them and get back to us haha.

Haha thanks! Yea I'm moving over from 2x 1000cc jets pre throttle over to 6x 190cc direct port jets and 1x 500cc pre throttle jet. Direct port comes with all the advantages you would expect, except that pre throttle does cool down IAT'S more. That's why my direct port nozzle placement is closest to the plenum as possible in the runners to allow the air more time to cool before being sucked in. I'm also putting that one 500cc pre throttle jet to help with more cooling. It's a hybrid system. There's a lot more advantages to moving over to a PWM solenoid with a constant pressure system vs my old PWM pump setup, but I'll get more into that once I'm done converting everything over. The ricer in me is excited to see SS tubing all over my manifold though!

I didn't go through every post in detail and this is probably already known but a VDO 320.021 as per the VDO site is scaled 323-18 ohms/50-150°C. Linear thermistors do exist.

Wrapped up putting the motor back in today. I have a stainless flex turbo drain pipe like you see on cummins and that funny enough PRP started selling. I generally prefer these but sadly they come with a finite amount of times they can be bent before they snap. Took well over a week for a replacement to arrive. I was able to prime the pump but I will more then likely wait until next friday to take it on its madden voyage. I also installed the nozzles for my direct port WMI setup but plugged the nozzle holders for now. I'll tube it with Swagelok SS tubing and fittings next chance I get. No rush, i'll be breaking it for a week or two anyways.

I have not found this no. I put one back on a couple days ago with no drama. I agree they are tight, but no need to remove anything.

I'm presuming those washers are only mean to be used with the Nitto gear?

Thanks for the kind words! Feel free to ask anything, anytime. Cheers.

Haha thanks! Our 4 seasons here are a great motivator to get things running for the summer season.

Hummers and Skylines... our love for unreliable money hungry vehicles is always questionable lol

Luckily no engineering/emissions here. We do whatever we want.

Salut Frederick. Belle 370z. Welcome to SAU!

I picked up my block and head last week and have been slowly assembling it since then. Pictures I took earlier this week. The rest of the auxiliaries are on now. I just have my intake manifold runners to tap for my WMI direct port setup before putting it back on. I should hopefully have the motor back in by this weekend.

I couldn't agree more. As an owner of a built high HP skyline, I'd be a hypocrite to not buy a Hummer for the reasons you listed though haha.

You can also remove the veins from the HICAS portion of your existing pump.

Absolutely! I've been in love with them since I was a kid. I remember doing a school essay on Humvee's back in grade 5 haha. I always wanted one, but didn't have the space nor the funds. With us now looking for another larger home with a larger garage, I'll have room to park it. They have also gone down considerably in price. The US army has been phasing out Humvee's, so they're flooding the market which also brings down H1 prices. It shouldn't be a problem to drive around here, I live in the suburbs. I would absolutely not buy one if I lived in a city though. They are known to be terribly unreliable. People often swap out the original 6.2/6.5L for a more reliable Duramax. H1 and Humvee's are identical, minus the fact that the H1 has a dash and seats. It sadly also makes the H1 more expensive. I've driven both and the Humvee interior, or lack thereof makes it extremely loud and unpleasant to drive. Don't get me wrong, the H1's interior is horrendous, but at least it's present. Most do a custom interior in a Humvee which I'm also more than happy to purchase.

CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) has existed since the 80's. I'm looking into buying a Hummer H1 and they generally included it.

Your friend:

Hahaha wow that was dead on! 🤣

As useful as you explaining what forgery is... But then again, I wasn't aware your inspectors were also forensic experts and inspect nameplates on each component to confirm everything is original. They must inspect roughly 3 cars a year at that rate. You're right though, my comment doesn't help you in anyway, so I'll go talk to my wall now. Cheers.

You must be fun at parties.

Touché. I had not noticed it was an NA.