TurboTapin

Have two quick spark related questions for everyone. I'm in the middle of building a stroked 2.8 and shooting for around 600kw. I'm expecting to run around 35psi to get there with my gen2 6466. 1st - Will good condition splitfire coilpacks have any issues around that pressure/hp? Should I just purchase r35 coilpacks to be safe or am I wasting my money? 2nd - As for sparkplugs, I'm planning on running 8's with a .6mm gap. Will this suffice? Thanks

Looks like an older Garret unit to me. Is it also written the AR on the compressor housing? (Ex: .070ar) If so, you should find the word garret on the turbine housing somewhere. Your manifold looks like an ebay special though...

Great job, this is much easier to read. Thanks.

What exact size are people drilling out their 5x head/block oil return passages too? I've read a variety of different sizes in this thread and elsewhere and want to confirm. Already did the head at 10mm as there's a lot of material but want to confirm for the block as the walls look thinner. Thanks

Has anyone dynoed the difference between using just a top plenum/oem runner vs short runner manifold? I'd love to see a graph and the difference.

My molding was rock hard from age so I cut it in half somewhere in the center with an xacto knife, being careful not to destroy the molding fastener under. I then proceed to pull it out starting at the center working my way towards the side molding. If you look at your new molding, you'll notice that there's nothing that actually holds it into the fastener under the side moldings. Repeat with second part. If this is the first time you change a molding on your R32 or any older car, use a heat gun to soften it up as you pull it out. If you don't, it will tear often and you will need to remove the broken parts afterwards out of the molding fastener which is a pain. If you don't have a heat gun, just leave it out in the sun. I also put masking tape on the painted edge to protect it. Cheers.

I'm confirming that the top molding can be removed without removing the side moldings. Cheers.

Good evening gents, I'm currently running a 6boost t3 twin scroll manifold with dual gates on an RB20. I'm in the middle of building a stroked RB25 that I would like to make ~700whp(520wkw) with. Looking into turbo selections, I'm noticing most turbo's in that size range are either T3 open or T4 divided but rarely T3 divided. Is there a reason for this? Will I be limiting myself? I'd love to keep this manifold as it was a pain fitting up/fabing it for twin gates with AC lines and I'd rather avoid doing it all over again. Thoughts?

Everything is normal except for your timing. It should not be at 0 while you're idling. When you throttle it, does it move?

I have an R35 maf in a 4" draw through setup with straightener. It was a nightmare to tune around idle and decel and it's still not 100% perfect. If I was keeping this setup (It's coming out this winter) I would redo it. I should have went 3.5" blow through from the start. Cheers.

In the middle of building an S1 RB25 and unfortunately noticed a few of my lifters have seen better days... Looking to replace all 24. OEM's are discontinued and I can only find aftermarket solid lifter conversions which I'm not very familiar with. What are my options? Thanks.

I'm currently running around 380WHP (450bhp?) on a bone stock RB20DET block with no issues. If your numbers above are BHP, then a stock block can handle them all with ease. A PT5858 with a .58ar T4 rear housing is a strange mix that I would personally not run on anything let alone an RB20. If you're aiming for 400whp, a 5558 or 5858 will both make that power and keep it going up top with a properly sized T3 housing. I'm currently running a Holset HY35 with a twinscroll 10cm rear (~.73ar) in a true twin scroll setup. 20psi around 4100rpm. Cheers.

Thanks everyone for the quick feedback. I've searched but wanted a quick response from people knowledgeable in NEO's as I need to put an offer on it right now before it disappears. Wiring/ecu isn't an issue as it's in my line of work and I'm already familiar working with nistune. Just wanted to confirm there's nothing mechanically funky with these compared to regular S1/S2 RB25DET's that would cause me any big issues. Thanks again.

I've been looking into building an RB25 on the side for awhile and finally came across a well priced one. I have a few quick questions before I move forward as I know nothing about the neo engines. 1. What exactly is different between an S2 RB25DET and an RB25DET NEO? From what I have read, it seems superior in everyway. 2. Anything weird I should know about putting these in an R32? Is there anything vastly different between an S1/S2 RB25DET swap besides ecu/wiring? 3. This is an auto RB25DET NEO. Besides the tranny and ecu, anything else that is different due to auto? I would purchase a new R34 5 speed or CD00X 6 speed to accompany it. Thanks!

I'm pretty confident a new radiator is the resolution to this issue.

There's no need to drop the tank to verify the tank vent, hoses, roll over valve, etc. You have access through the trunk fuel pump hatch.

HCR32 roll over valve is tucked in behind the rear diff. It's in the center and can be somewhat easily seen if you're under it. NIssan still makes them and they are roughly 80$. If it's not that then it's the short ~18" hose between the tank port and the roll over valve that is blocked. Ether way, should be an easy fix. Cheers.

I'm taking my rear diff off next weekend for maintenance purposes and was wondering if I should repack my cv joints while I'm there? The engineer in me is saying that grease after 31 years must have deteriorated but the normal part of me is saying don't waist your time... Googling reveals it's a "thing" on old Porsches. Good preventive maintenance or don't waist my time? Thoughts?

As already mentioned now, you can't run nistune on an R33 RB25 ecu. Get rid of it. Hopefully you're not currently driving around like that either. Cheers.

Are you running a stock 25det ecu? A different AFM will not give you more power, well not in the sense I believe you think.

The S1 RB25DET MAF is the same as an RB20 but I don't believe the S2 is, I may be wrong though. Confirm which one you have.

It's about 2-3 ugga duggas.

Heat wrapping manifolds is known to occasionally cause this. I would only consider it on a cast manifold.

This has been resolved by rotating the stator/casing presumably to its original location. No idea why or how this would cause what was happening but it's fixed.

I took my wiper motor off this weekend to clean up the aluminum and paint the steel parts (I was clearly bored). After reinstallation, when I start my wipers they now run in reverse just a tad, hit the cowl and then move forward and wipe the windshield. If I adjust the wipers so that it does not hit the cowl, they then park too high when I turn them off. Anybody ever seen this before? Thanks