TurboTapin

That ecu will work. Just swap around the IO you need in the ecu. Look up Rb25/R32 conversion DIY's and they document which pins or I/O need swapped in the ecu.

I'm not entirely certain what your end goal is but if it's just to pop in an RB25 into an R32 using stock components, R32 and R33 loom both use the same ecu connector. Use the R32 loom and R33 ECU. You will have some minor changes to make to the ecu pinout though.

Would that not be a good candidate for a reweld/line bore?

LTFT is a useful tool, but always ask yourself why it's correcting first (I.E is it being too aggressive? is it fighting with decel?). Also more importantly, manually smooth out your fuel map afterwards as it will make it ugly and lumpy after applying.

Set your decel fuel cut to disable 1000rpm before your idle and you'll be fine with it on.

If you send me your tune, I'll take a look and let you know if anything funky stands out.

Was the car previously in a country with mandatory DRL's? Might have been a poor attempt at having them.

I've also been going back and forth on these... but seeing them on an actual car now, I think I'll get them. They look much better then I expected. What LED bulbs do these use? Easily replacable for both low/high beam? RHDJapan has them much cheaper then other sites.

If you disconnect the line going to your wastegate, you'll run spring pressure.

Get a friend to get into the trunk with a flashlight, close it and hose her down.

If you need the OEM RB20 knock sensors and knock sensor loom, let me know. I have them both laying around somewhere.

I was in the garage when I first heard of this.... then I looked at my BBS LM's and my Recaro SR3's and chuckled. My car comprises mostly of parts from defunct companies.

PM sent.

Car wont idle without the resistor in place. You can also bypass it. If you need one meanwhile, message me. Cheers.

If it has two wires, it's your fuel pump resistor and not an injector resistor pack. I have one laying around I can sell you cheap.

I've been busy doing a lot of little things on the car. I had purchased one of every ball joint, tie rod, etc. for the front to replace everything when I first purchased the car 6 or so years ago. Whatever I hadn't replaced at the time, I decided to do now even if some of the parts still looked fairly good. That came out to the right side kingpin bearings, both tie rod ends and left side lower control arm ball joint. Did another oil change and sent off a sample as well. I've been working on setting up another VSS. The Haltech GPS has been sucking away my soul. The delay is unbearable. I ended up popping off the rear stub ABS rings off some GTR stubs I had laying around and installing those on my stubs. I had to grind every other tooth off so that it met sensor specs (10mm gap between teeth). I made a small bracket that attached it to a diff bolt. I just have to wire it in this week. It was also the first time I've ever pulled off a shrink fit with only a propane torch. Slipped right on with gravity. It's thin enough to get rather toasty. As for why I haven't wired it in yet, I've been waiting for the IC7 firmware update that allows it to be used as I/O. I'm going to toss my I/O Expander and wire it into the IC7... I wanted to get it all done at the same time. Update came out, unfortunately it's rather buggy. I had to turn off I/O Expansion as I kept losing my Canbus connection on the IC7 with it on. I've never really been impressed with Haltechs firmware support as every version always breaks something, but it seems to have gotten worst over the last few months. Oh yea and still nothing from Speedtek...

There's advantages and disadvantages to both. Sourced DI's are used in automotive for reliability (You can't short signal wires) and ease of use (You have chassis GND available to you anywhere).

On PLC inputs, yes 95% of the time you're sourcing. In automotive, including Nissan's, 95% of DI's are actually sinking. OP is correct. You sink inputs to GND, thus you will have 0VDC with the switch closed.

Like myself, you know you work in industry when your car is littered with Swagelok and Wika lol.

Nice car, you'll enjoy it! I take it from that plate, you're in New Brunswick?

It's an 80$ part on Amayama. Just replace it and be done with it.

What do you mean by "Signal and power from battery to the single post" ? You should only have one 12VDC power cable from battery to stud on the starter and your start signal to the spade for a total of two wires to your starter. Your block also needs to be properly grounded.

I've used the same style crimps on 600VAC, well above 25A. When I'm writing a bill of material for a design, I base it on what it's rated for and nothing more. If I measured every neck of every terminal I used, I'd get fired and presumably sent to an insane asylum. You're over thinking it. Now this only applies if he's using a name brand terminal and not a ching chong meow ali express special. My Radium hanger uses much smaller bulk heads and ring terminals and they're cold to the touch. As for my question concerning the nylon lock nut, crimps and if the ring is properly landing on the bulkhead, what I was getting at is if the bulkhead landing area is small and the ring terminal is oversized for the stud and not making a good contact, it could cause the heat with a nylock. As for the heat, if that's in fact a nylon lock nut and the nylon liquified which is what it looks like in that picture, it took some serious heat! Something was poorly done here, perhaps loose nuts or the crimps themselves. Looking at those crimps, it looks like he didn't use "Insulated terminal" crimpers as there's no indent anywhere to be seen.

Those yellow ring terminals are usually UL rated to 48-50A, and the blue ones to 30A. 105C. I doubt that's your issue. What's oozing out of the top of that nut? Is that a nylon lock nut? Does your bulkhead fitting have enough landing for your ring terminal to make good contact on both sides? Bad contact = Heat. Also check your crimps. Once crimped, confirm it's done properly by trying to pull the wire and ring apart. It should not budge.

It was cheaper at Trust Kikaku then it was at the dealer with my 15% off. No clue how, but I won't argue. Here's the link if ever you need one. Cheers. Nissan A/C Climate Control Unit - BNR32 #663111124 – Trust Kikaku (trust-kikaku.myshopify.com)