TurboTapin

Absolute best bang for the buck I've ever owned. Stock they had somewhere around 550-600hp, a pulley, intake and exhaust later I was at 800. Absolute torque monster and blast to drive.

I'll bite. I no longer own any euro's, but I thought I'd share two of my favorites I owned. My 500hp B5 S4 and my 800HP E55 AMG. Yes I did attempt to drive the E55 in Canadian winters, that lasted all of a month as it was a death trap.

While going through data logs late last week, I spotted a small issue with my WMI. My WMI starts to progressively inject at 11psi of boost. I'm using a 25psi cut in pressure switch on my WMI as an added safety and if the curve is linear, I should hit that 25psi on my WMI system around 13-14psi of boost. As per my data logs, my WMI pressure switch only activates around 19psi of boost. This is causing my non WMI 4D map to trim for WMI. I'm presuming this is caused by the mechanical switch response time, injection curve not being linear or both. I ordered a 2-10psi adjustable cut in pressure switch which should correct this. If this doesn't resolve it before my dyno appointment on Friday, I'll just remove the pressure switch temporarily and more than likely replace it with a pressure transmitter afterwards. BTW Speedtek has yet to refund me.

For future reference, I believe all that Amayama does is act as a middleman between you and Nissan. Go to your local dealership, ask nicely for a parts account (I get 15% off with mine) and you'll get better pricing. Cheers,

Turbomachinery engineers. They're just mechanical engineers who generally studied in universities focused on oil and gas, aviation or that had a formula SAE competition team. We have an entire team of them in our engineering department... they geek out over data and performance testing. I worked with them a lot when we developed an anti surge system for centrifugal compressors ran by electrical motors (~20 000-50 000HP) to avoid surging on accidental power loss. They laugh when I mention automotive turbochargers.... it seems they're lightyear's behind in technology due to poor funding. If you think formula 1 spends a lot of money, a single turbine/centrifugal compressor package in my line of work including the balance of plant equipment generally ranges in the 150-250Million range depending on size.

Thanks. I adjusted my soft cut to 7600rpm and if I see I'm still making power there, I'll consider readjusting to possibly 7800rpm while on the dyno.

Finished street tuning it to 20psi with WMI. Haltech really makes it easy for you with those 4D maps. I have 17psi springs in my gates but they seem to only start cracking around 17 and taper off around 19/20psi. I was originally on 14psi springs but I'm expecting to need ~35-38psi to hit my goal and I was worried It wouldn't make it. Dyno's booked for next Friday. All I have left is to replace my el cheapo amazon special type k connectors on my EGT's. They have no strain relief and well are just all around cheap compared to what I use at work. I had the wires in one get lose and I don't want a repeat of that on the Dyno. I also want to figure out why I have 4 cylinders that are perfectly identical, one that's 30C over and another that's 30C under. I'm chocking this up to EGT position in the runners not being identical and will verify that as well. Wish me luck! Hopefully I make all the power with no bang. Question for the group, I have my rev limiter set to 8000rpm. I have a fully built head and new lifters but I stuck with hydro's. Is 8000 fair or am I being to cautious?

It's also a total deal breaker for me. I've been teaching myself to tune and so far, seem to have done a good job up to 14psi. I want to continue learning. I found another tuner that I used many years ago that did a great job, so I'm waiting on the response from 3 places. Hopefully one of them doesn't lock it up, if not I'll start looking out of province.

I might be old fashion, but I hate remote tuning/programming. I'm a PLC programmer in the oil & gas industry where we work on turbines and large compressors and as Dose stated, it's much easier to backoff or catch an issue quicker in person. My ass on site detects compressor surge or a leaned out popping fuel map from the ground shaking well before alarms pop or someone can scream on the phone to stop.

I got that timing belt wrapped up last week. Engine actually sounds much better; I'm presuming the belt may have been slightly slapping the top belt cover. Now onto my next unexpected issue... I can't find a Dyno that doesn't lock up the ecu once done. We have what seems to be 6 local tuners who do Haltech, One is an RX7 specialty shop so I'll avoid them, and so far three of the others have stated they password lock the ecu once complete, which I refuse to accept. I'm waiting on responses on the last two... I was hoping to get it done on May 17th.

Rb's have issues with bottom end starvation, not head starvation. Which either way, you probably wouldn't ever see on a dyno. Strange... What's pump gas for you? Octane rating?

I ended up looking into this and you're absolutely right. The sport models with Syncro Rev Match(SRM) have a gear position sensor.

Thank you both for confirming! Happy I caught that before the dyno. I've put ~800kms on the new engine since, just street tuning it. Luckily it didn't skip a tooth. I only had about an hour tonight to work on it after my daughter fell asleep but I just have the pulley and lower cover left to remove. 340ftlb torqued pulley bolt came off much easier then expected.. Tensioner was new and seems fine. I had originally tightened it as per manual (2 full turns on spring then tighten). I'll give that another go hopefully tomorrow night if I have the pulley off by then.

I was just doing some final checks before the dyno. While checking timing, I noticed my belt seems a tad loose. I'm probably over thinking this but what's everyone's thoughts on this? I had originally tightened it as per manual. I also noticed that with engine running, the belt between crank and intake cam shakes back and forth. Should I tighten her up a smidgen? VID_20240422_211031.mp4

As already mentioned, we need to know what was limiting you. Fuel? Knock? If I understood correctly, you have your rev limiter at 7200rpm? If so, that is very low/strange, and your tuner would have made a point to discuss it. A G35-900 will continue to make power north of that. What gas and where are you located?

1x 8mm line cannot flow 525lph, let alone two pumps worth of it. Your first pump isn't being fully utilized and your second pump isn't doing anything at all.

You got your answer when everything was OK after disconnecting your return line from the FPR. Why in the world are you running a 460, 2200CC injectors, etc. on stock 8mm lines? Keep the pump, ditch the lines. I used both 8mm lines as my feed and one of my Hicas 10mm lines as return.

Voltage read at the ECU and battery will not be identical, especially on 90's cars. If the delta is excessive (~ >0.8VDC) verify your wiring to ecu, ECCS relay and ignition switch. If your battery voltage (Measured at the battery) while running is under ~13.8VDC, verify your existing grounding, exciter circuit and alternator. Do not add any further grounding.

Confirm voltage on your battery directly with a multimeter. If you are in fact at 15.5VDC+ then your voltage regulator on your alternator is shot, which also explain the voltage flicker. Charging your battery at those voltages will also lead to eventual damage.

We don't have E85 at the pump due to our winters. It wouldn't be pretty. But most of our petrol is an E15 mix.

Gear detection can only be done by either the use of a load/position sensor which you generally will not find on H pattern manual gear boxes or calculated from the gear ratio. As we're not running sequential or auto boxes, there are no other options. What exactly did your tuner tell you not to do? Once you have speed and rpm going into your ecu, all you have left to do is input the correct gear ratios in the ecu. Once you have your speed signal going in, PM me and I'll gladly help you. This is quick to setup.

And I thought we had a lot of useless laws in Canada. Let the poor old guy live out his youth again... It has no impact on anyone except for him.

I almost prefer driving my SUV over my Skyline. I like large vehicles with comfort and gadgets, I'm getting old... Speaking of unreliable SUV's with bad warranties, Land Rover... I had a 2008 Range Rover Sport Supercharged back in the day. It had a lot of issues and one day in 2012, engine decided to make all kinds of horrendous noises. I bring it to the dealer. They tell me they believe they know what it is and that it should be covered under warranty. Here's the best part though, since they cannot confirm the issue without taking the engine a part, it will cost 20 000$ out of pocket for investigation and replacement and whatever is under warranty will be reimbursed once the job is done. I just remember laughing about their third world warranty and walking out. My first and last Range Rover. I was lucky to get full not broken engine value on a trade in at another dealer the week after. It was a quick SUV and I do miss the center console fridge that perfectly held 6 beer but what a piece of crap that thing was. Spent most of its life broken. Long story short, English cars are worst then Euros...

98RON (EU) = 93AKI (NA). We also have 94AKI in Canada which is 101.5RON. In the US. they have E85 unlike us in Canada.

I forgot to mention, gear position on the IC7 is a calculation based on engine rpm, vehicle speed and gear ratios you have setup in your ecu.