TurboTapin

You won't make it out of your driveway. Both your rear wheels will go in whichever direction they feel. Your Hicas rack or a lockout bar is required to keep your wheels straight.

I had quite the scare last night. I was on the highway just toying around with an Audi. Right after an extended WOT pull, I lost all power. I cruised to a stop on the side of the highway and realized I had no fuel pressure. I keyed on/off a few times and could hear both pumps priming but pressure was still non existent. When you need a towing on a highway in Quebec, it's an automatic call to the provincial police. They don't mess around, they'll gladly destroy your car to get it off the highway asap. I pulled my bumper off as quickly as I could as to not have it destroyed getting it onto the truck. I got lucky as the tow driver was a car guy. He entertained the police while I finished up popping my bumper off and sticking it in my window. As we started taking off, the police drove by the tow driver to tell him we couldn't leave with the bumper sticking out the window. He pulled off on the first exit he saw, did a u turn and got right back on the highway in the direction of home lol. With no leak insight, the only thing I could think of was a torn FPR diaphragm or a popped hose inside my fuel tank. This morning on removal of my Radium twin pump hanger, one pump hose was completely shredded and the other was on the verge of the same fate. Both hoses had swelled to double their size... I have no idea how I ended up not using submersible hose but clearly that's what happened. To make things even worst, Radium supplies submersible hose with the hanger... So either they supplied the wrong hose or I had the wrong hose laying around when I assembled it. Looking over logs, my fuel pressure dropped to 0 roughly 10 seconds after a WOT pull. I was cruising and I'm confident the motors fine. Had that happened 10 seconds earlier, I'd more then likely be pulling the motor out. New hose arrives tomorrow, I'll put it back together then.

Yea I also was under this impression from various sources, but I figured it applied only to high speed I/O. I was not expecting any impact on such a slow input. Haltech should have an official statement of limitations or comm rates for these.

I thought I would share a few fun facts about Haltech products that I've learnt with their use that they don't share on their website. Haltech GPS speed - Extremely slow to react. It's fine for puttering around but I have no idea what speed I'm driving when in WOT due to the slow response time. This was always going to be temporary as I need mechanical wheel speed for eventual torque management, but it has just been bumped up a priority or two as it's a nuisance. Haltech I/O Expander - You often hear the response time is slow due to canbus comms, but I could not find concrete evidence and Haltech makes no mention of it. We'll now I have it. I mentioned in an earlier post that I thought my WMI mechanical pressure switch was causing a delayed response from my AEM WMI Controller to my ECU. My WMI begins to operate at 11psi, but my ECU was only getting an "On" signal around 19psi. After removing the pressure switch, there was no change. Luckily I connected my WMI Controller directly to the ECU the morning of my Dyno tune and there was a large improvement. I get the "On" signal around 13-14psi now. These remote IO boxes should be marketed for only non-critical I/O.

After recently being on a dyno, It seems I'm losing out on a fair bit of power with my RPM soft cut at 7600rpm and a gen2 6466. It's a fully Ferrea built S1 RB25 head with new hydraulic lifters. Can it safely be reved higher? If so, to what? I'm thinking I can safety increase it to 7800RPM.

2.8L Stroked S1 RB25 Fully built block (Spool&CP) and head (Ferrea & Kelford 272's). Hydro lifters. Precision 6466 Gen2 1.00 T4 Divided. 2x 40mm Turbosmart open dump gates. DW 1200cc injectors 2x AEM 320LPH Pumps Haltech Elite 2500, IC7, WB1, TC8, Etc. 4" Downpipe, 3.5" Catback. 94AKI (101.5ron) Pump gas + WMI (2x 1000cc nozzles) 463rwkws @ 27psi on a mustang roller dyno.

I finally got it on the dyno today and luckily it stayed in one piece! It wasn't without its dramas though. First off, sent my power steering belt to the moon around the third pull. Scared me half to death. Tuner laughed and mentioned that often happens with RB's... I may need to look into adding the Ross power steering idler, or something a long those lines. Second issue that came up was about 2 hours in, we realized the VCT wasn't working and had to go back through the timing and knock threshold once it was fixed (I had botched setting up VCT). That waisted a good hour or so. I was surprised to see that with VCT working, we saw a ~38rwkw difference across the powerband. More then I would of expected. Without further ado, made 463rwkw@27psi. Not the numbers I originally set out after, but still more then enough to kill myself and I'm very happy. Mustang roller dyno's are known to be heart breakers compared to other dyno's. Two things that limited me, first was the hydraulic lifters/7600rpm cut. Tuner was adamant that I was losing out on a lot of power up top because of it. Second was the pump gas & WMI. He wasn't 100% comfortable tuning with WMI, and was honest about it. He stated he's more confident on E85/Race gas. I look at this as a positive as it leaves me a lot of room for improvement. All in all, very happy! I need to see what I can do about that rev limiter... I use to rev my stock RB20 to 8000rpm and now I have a fully built head that I only rev to 7600... It's bugging me. Don't mind my fantastic picture/filming skills. RB28 - Dyno (1).mp4

That wiring looks like it was done by a 12 year old with a methamphetamine addiction. Start by redoing that disaster. What you're describing has nothing to do with your FPR vac source.

Absolute best bang for the buck I've ever owned. Stock they had somewhere around 550-600hp, a pulley, intake and exhaust later I was at 800. Absolute torque monster and blast to drive.

I'll bite. I no longer own any euro's, but I thought I'd share two of my favorites I owned. My 500hp B5 S4 and my 800HP E55 AMG. Yes I did attempt to drive the E55 in Canadian winters, that lasted all of a month as it was a death trap.

While going through data logs late last week, I spotted a small issue with my WMI. My WMI starts to progressively inject at 11psi of boost. I'm using a 25psi cut in pressure switch on my WMI as an added safety and if the curve is linear, I should hit that 25psi on my WMI system around 13-14psi of boost. As per my data logs, my WMI pressure switch only activates around 19psi of boost. This is causing my non WMI 4D map to trim for WMI. I'm presuming this is caused by the mechanical switch response time, injection curve not being linear or both. I ordered a 2-10psi adjustable cut in pressure switch which should correct this. If this doesn't resolve it before my dyno appointment on Friday, I'll just remove the pressure switch temporarily and more than likely replace it with a pressure transmitter afterwards. BTW Speedtek has yet to refund me.

For future reference, I believe all that Amayama does is act as a middleman between you and Nissan. Go to your local dealership, ask nicely for a parts account (I get 15% off with mine) and you'll get better pricing. Cheers,

Turbomachinery engineers. They're just mechanical engineers who generally studied in universities focused on oil and gas, aviation or that had a formula SAE competition team. We have an entire team of them in our engineering department... they geek out over data and performance testing. I worked with them a lot when we developed an anti surge system for centrifugal compressors ran by electrical motors (~20 000-50 000HP) to avoid surging on accidental power loss. They laugh when I mention automotive turbochargers.... it seems they're lightyear's behind in technology due to poor funding. If you think formula 1 spends a lot of money, a single turbine/centrifugal compressor package in my line of work including the balance of plant equipment generally ranges in the 150-250Million range depending on size.

Thanks. I adjusted my soft cut to 7600rpm and if I see I'm still making power there, I'll consider readjusting to possibly 7800rpm while on the dyno.

Finished street tuning it to 20psi with WMI. Haltech really makes it easy for you with those 4D maps. I have 17psi springs in my gates but they seem to only start cracking around 17 and taper off around 19/20psi. I was originally on 14psi springs but I'm expecting to need ~35-38psi to hit my goal and I was worried It wouldn't make it. Dyno's booked for next Friday. All I have left is to replace my el cheapo amazon special type k connectors on my EGT's. They have no strain relief and well are just all around cheap compared to what I use at work. I had the wires in one get lose and I don't want a repeat of that on the Dyno. I also want to figure out why I have 4 cylinders that are perfectly identical, one that's 30C over and another that's 30C under. I'm chocking this up to EGT position in the runners not being identical and will verify that as well. Wish me luck! Hopefully I make all the power with no bang. Question for the group, I have my rev limiter set to 8000rpm. I have a fully built head and new lifters but I stuck with hydro's. Is 8000 fair or am I being to cautious?

It's also a total deal breaker for me. I've been teaching myself to tune and so far, seem to have done a good job up to 14psi. I want to continue learning. I found another tuner that I used many years ago that did a great job, so I'm waiting on the response from 3 places. Hopefully one of them doesn't lock it up, if not I'll start looking out of province.

I might be old fashion, but I hate remote tuning/programming. I'm a PLC programmer in the oil & gas industry where we work on turbines and large compressors and as Dose stated, it's much easier to backoff or catch an issue quicker in person. My ass on site detects compressor surge or a leaned out popping fuel map from the ground shaking well before alarms pop or someone can scream on the phone to stop.

I got that timing belt wrapped up last week. Engine actually sounds much better; I'm presuming the belt may have been slightly slapping the top belt cover. Now onto my next unexpected issue... I can't find a Dyno that doesn't lock up the ecu once done. We have what seems to be 6 local tuners who do Haltech, One is an RX7 specialty shop so I'll avoid them, and so far three of the others have stated they password lock the ecu once complete, which I refuse to accept. I'm waiting on responses on the last two... I was hoping to get it done on May 17th.

Rb's have issues with bottom end starvation, not head starvation. Which either way, you probably wouldn't ever see on a dyno. Strange... What's pump gas for you? Octane rating?

I ended up looking into this and you're absolutely right. The sport models with Syncro Rev Match(SRM) have a gear position sensor.

Thank you both for confirming! Happy I caught that before the dyno. I've put ~800kms on the new engine since, just street tuning it. Luckily it didn't skip a tooth. I only had about an hour tonight to work on it after my daughter fell asleep but I just have the pulley and lower cover left to remove. 340ftlb torqued pulley bolt came off much easier then expected.. Tensioner was new and seems fine. I had originally tightened it as per manual (2 full turns on spring then tighten). I'll give that another go hopefully tomorrow night if I have the pulley off by then.

I was just doing some final checks before the dyno. While checking timing, I noticed my belt seems a tad loose. I'm probably over thinking this but what's everyone's thoughts on this? I had originally tightened it as per manual. I also noticed that with engine running, the belt between crank and intake cam shakes back and forth. Should I tighten her up a smidgen? VID_20240422_211031.mp4

As already mentioned, we need to know what was limiting you. Fuel? Knock? If I understood correctly, you have your rev limiter at 7200rpm? If so, that is very low/strange, and your tuner would have made a point to discuss it. A G35-900 will continue to make power north of that. What gas and where are you located?

1x 8mm line cannot flow 525lph, let alone two pumps worth of it. Your first pump isn't being fully utilized and your second pump isn't doing anything at all.

You got your answer when everything was OK after disconnecting your return line from the FPR. Why in the world are you running a 460, 2200CC injectors, etc. on stock 8mm lines? Keep the pump, ditch the lines. I used both 8mm lines as my feed and one of my Hicas 10mm lines as return.