TurboTapin

He hasn't been on in a month. I already miss his posts...

This can be milled out regardless with a long enough cutter but finding an end mill, etc. long enough is the issue. I've heard of 12" end mill cutters, and I'm presuming someone somewhere makes them longer but you may still need to hit it from both sides which makes it more of a pain for alignment. For the reason above, I only ended up enlarging my head to 10mm. My S1 RB25 passages look identical to yours. I'm presuming it was slightly off in certain castings.

Oh.. right he did say that in his original post. I should read before commenting.

All these parts can be purchased at your local Nissan dealership over here in Canada, is it not the same elsewhere?

Due to such little surface area between the input shaft and pilot bushing, it had already began chewing it up. I don't believe It would have lasted much longer then 6 months. Haha I remember the first time I started the car and pushed in my clutch pefal and said ohh that's not so bad.... Then I drove it and first heard the lovely chatter. My neighbor's must think the cars broken.

Nothing very interesting to report. I've just been street tuning and breaking it in slowly. I'd like to drive it around another 1000km's or so and do another oil change before hitting the dyno. This has given me time to fix a few issues that have come up though. 1. My intake cam was leaking oil ever so slightly. Traced it back to the cam seal, it was completely torn... I must of given it one to many wacks during install. Surprised it wasn't leaking more. 2. My VCT cam gear decided to make a god awful sound for roughly 10 minutes while driving/idling, not long after removing it to replace the above mentioned cam seal. Has not come back and VCT is still operating properly. I'll keep an eye on it. I had read this occasionally happens but I wish I could better understand exactly what causes the noise. 3. When originally popping in my pilot bushing, I noticed it was slightly looser then what I'm use to seeing. At the time I went ahead and popped the transmission on anyways. About three weeks ago, a realization came to mind of what if while installing my trans, the input shaft gripped the side of the pilot bearing a tad and drove it in further then it should be. I pondered for a week and finally after realizing I was losing sleep over it, I pulled the trans. Hold and behold, it was sitting as deep as it could in my crank. The input shaft was only making contact on roughly 4mm of the bushing and was already eating it up. I'm very happy I pulled it off... I drove in a new slightly larger pilot bushing with retaining compound to be extra safe. By the way, this probably goes without saying but the low end torque between a 2.8 and my old 20det is night and day... Having ran a supercharged 5.5L just prior, the 20det was very underwhelming under 4-5K. I know I've also mentioned it before but god damn double plate clutches sound terrible... Makes a spun bearing sound fantastic. Lucky it only sounds horrid when in low gear/low rpm.

You'll need a top mount manifold. Turbo choice will depend on what power you're chasing and stay far away from maxspeedingrods products.

I just gave it a try and it's a no go without an addition wheel sensor. The error states "Traction Control for rear wheel drive requires at least one rear wheel sensor (Or drivetrain sensor) and at least one front wheel speed sensor."

I was under the impression that Haltech does not allow the use of their GPS speed for traction control. It must be wheel speed sensors.

If you're unaccustomed to engine internals and noises, you should cease driving it and seek a local mechanic. You only seem to be assuming it's lifters based on very little information. "Marbles" does not sound good.

Aftermarket cams are sometimes marked with make or model. OEM's also have paint marks on them which I don't believe aftermarket companies do.

For the 10 seconds it takes, pop the valve cover off and take a look. If they're stock, plug it back in. If they're aftermarket and not VCT friendly. Replace them and then plug it back in. May have been unplugged for other reasons as well (Noisy VCT cam gear!?)

Oh, I misunderstood your original post. Why not just replace your original cluster with the Microtech? It will look heaps better than a Frankenstein cluster or a digital dash sitting in front of your original cluster (Hate seeing this, huge pet peeve of mine) and will be much easier to do.

If you're removing your original cluster to replace it with the microtech dash, also keep in mind that you will need to add a resister for alternator excitation and fuel low lamp. You will also need a diode for doors ajar lamp. Everything else is pretty straight forward.

I just bought green day dookie on cassette tape. Been listening to that on my Walkman plugged into aux.

I love your posts more and more. I'm actually also starting to think you're not a real person.

Most if not all manufacturers also have time intervals for oil changes. They seem to always be 6 or 12 months. I would never let oil sit 2-3 years in an engine.

Thanks! Here's the parts I used. Prices in CDN which is very close to AUD. Cheers! CD00A Transmission - 2600$ RB/CD009 Adapter - 600$ RB/CD009 Driveshaft - $600 Nissan 32mm Release bearing - 40$ Speedtek 3.33 Final Drive - 750$ CD009 Slave cylinder - 50$ Serial nine CD999 Shifter - 600$

Haha, summer all year round you say? Count me in!

Thanks, happy to help!

I had some time so I figured I'd document this, as information out there is very piecemeal and scattered. There's 2 methods of doing this conversion. First method is using an adapter flywheel with original bell housing and second is using regular RB flywheel with milled down bell housing. This will document the second method. I find there's a lot more pro's then con's with the milled bellhousing method for the following reasons. 1. You're not stuck with a specific flywheel made by only one company. You can use any regular RB flywheel. 2. You cannot purchase an off the shelf twin plate clutch due to flywheel limitations. 3. Adapter flywheels are a fair bit longer. I dislike the idea of adding weight further from the crank and main bearing. 4. Shifter sits a lot closer to original location. 5. You can avoid having to deal with dumpster fire companies like Collins Adapters. Lets start. First step, purchase a CD00A transmission from your local dealer. If memory serves me right, I paid 2600$CDN in July 2022. Remove the bits you wont need as you'll need a different shifter kit. Next we'll need to remove the bell housing to have to milled down. Remove the front cover bolts and front cover. Remove the circlip and bearing (Not pictured). Lastly, remove the hidden bolt under the shift linkage cover. This process is well documented in many Youtube videos so I won't delve more into it. Bell housing will come off with some love from a rubber mallet afterwards. Once removed, drop it off at your local machine shop to have them mill it down 15mm. Before and after picture below. The starter on an RB does not sit in the same location on the CD009 transmission so the bellhousing needs to be massaged a tad to fit. Some just notch it out completely, but I find it a hack job. I removed just enough meat for it to fit. I also recut a drain path for oil/water in the original location. Next was to reinstall the bell housing and my shifter kit. I went with the SerialNine CD999 Technical shifter. From my findings, it's the closest to sit in the factory location. Lastly for the transmission, you'll need to measure which release bearing will fit. X-Clutch (Australian Clutch Services) has a nice TSB documenting how to measure it. TSB-203.pdf I required a 32mm release bearing with an X-Clutch twin disk. Expect much longer with a single plate clutch. Here's a list of Nissan release bearing lengths and part numbers. If you require more, Collins does sell a 42mm release bearing. Part number-------------Size 30501-A3800------------12 mm 30501-N1600------------14 mm 30501-U200-------------16 mm 30501-S0200------------18 mm 30501 -B6000-----------20 mm 30501-S0160------------22 mm 30501-K0401------------24 mm 30501-K0510------------26 mm 30501-N1600------------28 mm 30501-N8400------------30 mm 30501-U8500------------32 mm With the transmission ready, I got to work on the car. Install your adapter plate of choice on the engine. I went with a Collins adapter, but knowing what I know why; I would avoid them like the plague. As the CD009 transmission is a lot bulkier, you will also need to enlarge two areas in the transmission tunnel for it to fit. First, the area where the bellhousing and adapter plate meet (Not pictured) and second, where the tunnel narrows down for the transmission mount. This took a fair bit of work with an air hammer and back and forth with the transmission in place. It's very tight but it fits. Next up, is to finally get the transmission installed. It was a must for me to have to drop my motor a tad lower by loosening the 4x subframe nuts. Be careful with this as you don't want your motor and subframe to drop to the ground. Just before fabbing a mount, you'll need to measure and adjust your transmission angle in comparison with your differential. You're looking for equal and opposite. As my diff flange sat 2 degree's up, I adjusted the motor/transmission angle to be 2 degree's down. I fabbed up a mount bracket with 2" flat bar and a GKTech RB trans rubber mount. The RB and CD009 mount holes are identical and it bolts right up. Lastly I had to trim the shifter hole a tad. The shifter sits in the original location, but still required trimming for the base. I made another plate to cover it and then covered it with sound deadening. And that should wrap it up. Now, sit back and enjoy your 6 speed that should in theory support 1000hp! One last thing I wanted to add is that the CD009 is not a great match for the 4.1-4.3 final drives you find on most skylines. I went ahead and popped in a speedtek 3.3 final drive, but I did drive it with a 4.3 for a short period of time. 1st-4th gears were useless and I'd cruise around 50kmh in 5th gear.

FiXtUrE after reading your comment.

First time I see "Rear main seal" acronymized as RMS. I had to google it... low and behold it's a Porsche thing. Learn something new every day.

Where in that image do you see plug leads? NGK, OEM or otherwise... Please circle it, I'm curious.

I second this. He's the perfect example of the Dunning–Kruger effect.