TurboTapin

He hasn't been back since he posted this back in March. It's probably best you call or message him as per his post.

Wrapped up a lot of odd ends over the last two weeks. Installed my one-piece driveshaft, wrapped up all engine and transmission wiring, tested all IO and DBW. For whatever reason, outsider garage bumped up the throttle body adapter bolts from M6 to M8's which required drilling out my magnus adapter. I had originally purchased a Taarks adapter that I sadly destroyed trying to get it to work due to a difference in design. Completed my clutch hydraulics (R33 Master with Z33 slave). The slave required ever so slight material removal for it not to interfere with the transmission adapter plate. Only wiring I'll have left is for the Meth injection kit. I'm waiting it out hoping Haltech updates firmware's to allow IC7 inputs to be read from an Elite ecu. I'm really trying to avoid purchasing an IO expander. One less thing to go wrong. Tomorrow I'll dump my old gas and scale my IC7 fuel level then start working on the intercooler piping. Going 3" hot, and 3"/3.5" cold. I also need to start looking for a proper BOV. The last vent to atmosphere BOV I had was on my 93 wrx 14+ years ago. I've only ran DV's since. My inner child is excited to hear Psssshhh again.

I've noticed two bugs since the update. Let me know if you need specific software versions. Cheers. 1. The rank icons are much larger than the profile icons on the left side of all posts. This is with Microsoft Edge on Windows 11. 2. Using Microsoft Edge in Android 11, the login button on top right corner has disappeared.

NEO's did not have an external VCT drain like the S1/S2's. I also recall the NEO heads having chamber differences. With that being said, I'm not confident you can bolt an S1/S2 head onto a NEO block but wait for someone who's more knowledgeable on the topic to chime in.

Also wanted to chime in that this is not normal. ECU is reliable to read voltage but there's roughly a .4-.5v difference from battery voltage and ecu voltage.

Thanks! Yea I'm big on doing things right the first time and will also be using all the safety features available as well. (EGT's, WMI Monitoring, etc.) While on the topic, I hate when people spend big dollar on builds or wire tucks but while going through their electrical, you spot wires twisted and taped instead of soldered or crimped, shielding not used or done improperly, incorrect wire gauge, wires extended so long you get excessive voltage drop, etc.

I've been slowly wrapping up odd ends. Finished up the fuel lines. Using both original 5/16 lines as feed merging into an 8an soft line on both ends and added a 3/8 hardline and 6an soft as return. Took my driveshaft measurements and sent those out, custom shaft should arrive soon. Also ordered another 6Boost manifold... this being my third I figured why change now. Last big purchase before starting it up should be my turbo. I'm still leaning towards a Precision 6466 but not 100% sold on it yet. While I wait for parts, I'm continuing the wiring. First time Haltech user and I'm really not impressed with the lack of IO testing capabilities...

Yes it's a GTR.

It's snake oil.

Just to add to this, the RB25 S1/S2 power steering pulley is 3 rib where as the RB20, RB26 & Neo have a 4 rib. This link mentions it and and the offset GTSBoy mentionned. https://www.facebook.com/RossPerformanceParts/photos/a.1384131785198180/2713886952222650/?type=3

I'm confirming this. If my memory is correct, I believe it was somewhere around 240ftlb's.

Today I tried to install my Greddy intake manifold but the R32 clutch master was in the way which I somewhat expected. Purchased the shorter R33 master which should arrive tomorrow. Meanwhile I finished up the hard tubing for my VCT and rear oil drain. Here's the pictures of the CD009/Serial Nine shifter placement I forgot to post. With new sheet metal plate that is bolted in using 4 original bolts. With Insulation mat With original boot.

I ran an RB20 with stock head gasket and bolts at 20PSI/273rwkw for two years. Was still running great when I pulled it out at the beginning of this summer.

Finally wrapped up the CD009 install. What a bitch it was getting that in, they are rather large and heavy. In hindsight, it's a somewhat easy job once you you've done it before. Spent more time measuring and confirming things then actually installing it as I was nervous getting it to work with my twin disc as Collins said it couldn't be done. I'll probably create a DIY with more details on here once I have time as I could not find much if anything about the installation process, correct release bearing, etc. when milling down the bell housing as apposed to using the longer flywheel. All I can say is an air hammer is your friend when it comes to making room. I made a mount bracket and used my GK Tech RB trans mount. To my surprise, the holes line up perfectly. The CD999 shifter sits in the original location but I did need to cut out some of the tunnel to have it fit due to its design. I'll post photos of that tomorrow. I had to drop my engine a bit to get the correct driveshaft angle (-2Deg at trans, +2deg at differential. It's great shifting a modern transmission though and that extra gear will be great.

I noticed the Nismo engine mounts had the OEM part number in the rubber but I presumed this was due to Nissan using the same mold for both but with a harder rubber for the Nismo. I didn't see the need in creating two identical molds. You gents think they are in fact identical parts ? It did cross my mind as a possibility...

Lol always the exhaust side. I wrapped mine with gold reflective tape to see if it gives it a few extra years.

I'm just wrapping up a CD009 install on an R32 and wanted to drop the front of my engine a tad to get a better driveshaft angle. I thought I'd chime in on this post with conclusive info as I have both new OEM and Nismo R32 mounts. 11220-02U03 vs 11220-RS585. I'm confirming without a doubt that they are both the exact same height and both have the same "Squish" when installed. I ended up notching my engine mounts like the RB30 guys do. The height difference people see must just be the difference between settled old mounts and new fresh mounts. Cheers.

Do not spray anything at the two points marked. You'll more then likely have a bearing under the black cap in your photo and at the other end of that shaft. Also take a look at your brushes, they may need cleaning/replacement. The brushes will be at each end of those two wires you see in your top picture.

Simple trick to finding a water ingress location...get in and have someone hose it down while you follow any streams back to their source.

Sadly I have yet to receive my 32mm release bearing carrier and my trans installation has been stalled due to it. Waiting for parts has been increasingly annoying but it's the world we live in now... I've been seeing 40+ week lead times for parts at work for things I use to pick up same day off the shelf. I figured to speed things up I'd get my 42mm Collins carrier machined down... it ended on a bad yet funny note. Brought my carrier to my local machinist. 30 minutes later he calls stating "Things have gone terribly wrong and to come by" I laughed as this is a simple 10min lathe job. I arrive and my carrier has transformed into three pieces. It seems Collins uses a 24mm carrier and press fits on another 18mm spacer onto it. The way it's done, neither my machinist or I caught onto it. We both presumed it was one piece. He basically blew through the pressed on part turning it into 2 pieces and third being the original 24mm carrier. He felt bad, I just laughed and told him it's fine... He offered to make another press on adapter but by that point I figured I should just wait for my 32mm carrier to arrive and called it a day. I did install my serial nine shifter and was very pleased. At the price these things cost I was expecting perfection and they delivered. Easy installation and shifts fantastically for such a short linkage. I went with the serial nine as it's the only one I believe that will fit in the original shifter hole without any cutting.

Sell your GT2860's and HKS turbos. Purchase two stock turbos and stock ecu and call it a day then.

So far I've been eyeing the speedtek 3.33 final drive that seems to be perfect for my application (High HP, R200 & CD009) but have not looked into it in detail yet. I'm planning on working on the rear end (Anti squat, diff, axles, etc.) once the engine bay and all rewiring is wrapped up.

I'm in Canada as well and have RB25 S1 cams I can let go for 120$ if you need. PM me if ever you need them. Cheers.

Just waiting on my serial nine shifter to arrive but I mock installed the CD009 and it seems to fit great. I'll write a DIY once I'm done. With my XClutch twin disk, I required a 32mm bearing carrier as opposed to the 42mm one Collins supplies. Fun facts, I'll give the transmission a shake test once it's back in but so far I see no need to massage the trans tunnel... it fits. Tight but fits. If you use the adapter flywheel as apposed to milling the bellhousing I have a feeling it wouldn't fit as easily though. The Collins adapter plate worked better then I thought it would but their after sales support is absolute garbage and I refuse to ever purchase another one of their products.

I'm using the slave cylinder originally meant for the CD009. Can't remember the part#, was like 90$. Nissan bearings are all the same from what I can tell, so you can use an RB or Z33. What changes is the bearing carrier aka sleeve. If you have a milled bellhousing as opposed to using the adapter flywheel, you'll need a longer carrier. Bearing and carrier sit further in the CD009 thus requiring a longer one. If you remove exactly 14mm from your bell housing, and plan on using a single plate, Collins sells a 42mm carrier that should work. I have one if ever you need it. With a twin plate due to it being thicker I required a 32mm. Nissan part# 30501-U8584. I plan on making a DIY on here once I'm done as I couldn't find a single one for RB's. I'm just waiting on my serial nine shifter to arrive to toss everything back in. For now, go see my build thread; I've posted some info there. Cheers.