TurboTapin

I'm confirming that is correct. If the air regulator (Aka cold start valve) is not powered when your pump is on then it's possible your pump was rewired at some point incorrectly. Look for any evidence of this. The air regulator 12VDC wire splices into your fuel pump 12VDC wire between the fuel pump relay and FPCM on the right vertical inner fender wall of your trunk about a foot away from the rear right taillight.

As already mentioned, do not under any circumstance purchase a cheap ching chong meow turbo off of ebay. You will regret it.

Not sure if it has been mentioned as an option yet, but I'm running a 10cm twin scroll HY35W and I make 273rwkw @ 20psi and start spooling around 3100rpm. It's probably actually more as my clutch fan died on the dyno and we were letting it cool between pulls. It's still pulling at 7800rpm. Another plus is these turbos new from Holset go for about 600$CDN. Cheers.

Yes those are the correct bulbs and placement for pre 91 headlights.

1990 R32 gtst Stock internals 6boost twin scroll t3 manifold dual turbosmart 40mm gates Holset HY35/10cm twinscroll turbine @ 20PSI R35 maf/4" intake Splitfire Coilpacks (Rewired S2 with no external igniter) DeatschWerks 550CC Injectors AEM 320 Pump (FPCM Removed, OEM Relay Rewired) FFP Cast Manifold 3.5" Downpipe to 3" Catback Nistune 94 AKI Pump gas 366WHP/273WKW and 301WTQ on a mustang dyno on a very hot day with a dead clutch fan. We we're letting it cool down between pulls near the end and I'm confident due to this it actually makes a bit more.