TurboTapin

They don't sell the lock barrels anymore, but they do still sell the barrel switch and wiring which is more then likely what you need. Part# 48750-D4500. 30$ If for whatever reason you need the whole kit, 3gspares.co.nz has a used set.

PCV Valve is the one on your manifold that is capped off. Be careful repurposing the oem pcv lines. The original line between exhaust side valve cover and intake has a small orifice inside it.

350z track edition Brembo's and disks can be had new for peanuts. That's what I run.

This sounds like an incorrect release bearing length/travel or clutch pedal adjustment issue to me. If your transmission is still on the car, remove your slave cylinder and by hand pushing your clutch fork, how much play is there before the release bearing touches the flywheel? If your transmission is off, better yet; ask your clutch OEM for a clutch release bearing checking guide. I can supply you one from ACS that more than likely applies to any clutch if needed.

Is this a RWD box? If so, fill it through the shifter hole.

He hasn't been on in a month. I already miss his posts...

This can be milled out regardless with a long enough cutter but finding an end mill, etc. long enough is the issue. I've heard of 12" end mill cutters, and I'm presuming someone somewhere makes them longer but you may still need to hit it from both sides which makes it more of a pain for alignment. For the reason above, I only ended up enlarging my head to 10mm. My S1 RB25 passages look identical to yours. I'm presuming it was slightly off in certain castings.

Oh.. right he did say that in his original post. I should read before commenting.

All these parts can be purchased at your local Nissan dealership over here in Canada, is it not the same elsewhere?

Due to such little surface area between the input shaft and pilot bushing, it had already began chewing it up. I don't believe It would have lasted much longer then 6 months. Haha I remember the first time I started the car and pushed in my clutch pefal and said ohh that's not so bad.... Then I drove it and first heard the lovely chatter. My neighbor's must think the cars broken.

Nothing very interesting to report. I've just been street tuning and breaking it in slowly. I'd like to drive it around another 1000km's or so and do another oil change before hitting the dyno. This has given me time to fix a few issues that have come up though. 1. My intake cam was leaking oil ever so slightly. Traced it back to the cam seal, it was completely torn... I must of given it one to many wacks during install. Surprised it wasn't leaking more. 2. My VCT cam gear decided to make a god awful sound for roughly 10 minutes while driving/idling, not long after removing it to replace the above mentioned cam seal. Has not come back and VCT is still operating properly. I'll keep an eye on it. I had read this occasionally happens but I wish I could better understand exactly what causes the noise. 3. When originally popping in my pilot bushing, I noticed it was slightly looser then what I'm use to seeing. At the time I went ahead and popped the transmission on anyways. About three weeks ago, a realization came to mind of what if while installing my trans, the input shaft gripped the side of the pilot bearing a tad and drove it in further then it should be. I pondered for a week and finally after realizing I was losing sleep over it, I pulled the trans. Hold and behold, it was sitting as deep as it could in my crank. The input shaft was only making contact on roughly 4mm of the bushing and was already eating it up. I'm very happy I pulled it off... I drove in a new slightly larger pilot bushing with retaining compound to be extra safe. By the way, this probably goes without saying but the low end torque between a 2.8 and my old 20det is night and day... Having ran a supercharged 5.5L just prior, the 20det was very underwhelming under 4-5K. I know I've also mentioned it before but god damn double plate clutches sound terrible... Makes a spun bearing sound fantastic. Lucky it only sounds horrid when in low gear/low rpm.

You'll need a top mount manifold. Turbo choice will depend on what power you're chasing and stay far away from maxspeedingrods products.

I just gave it a try and it's a no go without an addition wheel sensor. The error states "Traction Control for rear wheel drive requires at least one rear wheel sensor (Or drivetrain sensor) and at least one front wheel speed sensor."

I was under the impression that Haltech does not allow the use of their GPS speed for traction control. It must be wheel speed sensors.

If you're unaccustomed to engine internals and noises, you should cease driving it and seek a local mechanic. You only seem to be assuming it's lifters based on very little information. "Marbles" does not sound good.

Aftermarket cams are sometimes marked with make or model. OEM's also have paint marks on them which I don't believe aftermarket companies do.

For the 10 seconds it takes, pop the valve cover off and take a look. If they're stock, plug it back in. If they're aftermarket and not VCT friendly. Replace them and then plug it back in. May have been unplugged for other reasons as well (Noisy VCT cam gear!?)

Oh, I misunderstood your original post. Why not just replace your original cluster with the Microtech? It will look heaps better than a Frankenstein cluster or a digital dash sitting in front of your original cluster (Hate seeing this, huge pet peeve of mine) and will be much easier to do.

If you're removing your original cluster to replace it with the microtech dash, also keep in mind that you will need to add a resister for alternator excitation and fuel low lamp. You will also need a diode for doors ajar lamp. Everything else is pretty straight forward.

I just bought green day dookie on cassette tape. Been listening to that on my Walkman plugged into aux.

I love your posts more and more. I'm actually also starting to think you're not a real person.

Most if not all manufacturers also have time intervals for oil changes. They seem to always be 6 or 12 months. I would never let oil sit 2-3 years in an engine.

Thanks! Here's the parts I used. Prices in CDN which is very close to AUD. Cheers! CD00A Transmission - 2600$ RB/CD009 Adapter - 600$ RB/CD009 Driveshaft - $600 Nissan 32mm Release bearing - 40$ Speedtek 3.33 Final Drive - 750$ CD009 Slave cylinder - 50$ Serial nine CD999 Shifter - 600$

Haha, summer all year round you say? Count me in!

Thanks, happy to help!