TurboTapin

I started life off as an electrician before continuing my education in electrical engineering. With that being said, 9/10 times an electrician will get paid more then an engineer in Canada. Why you ask? Because everyone's an engineer now... and 80% of them don't know how a drill works or how to troubleshoot diddly squat. They all end up working in non technical fields like project management.

I'm running 350Z Track edition Brembo's with 324mm discs in front on my 32 gtst. I think the calipers were 250$ a pop new. See my link below for info. R32 Skyline – Budget Brembo Brake Upgrade – GoodeZilla

@r32-25t @Dose Pipe Sutututu I would also second a 6466! Maybe go with the .84 rear if you're not shooting for the stars. I've comfortably driven street cars with a lot more lag.

Haha, I was trying my hardest not to create any boost pressure and keep it under 3000rpm as I'm still breaking it in... yet my blow off valve kept popping off 😄

First drive with it today. We have a winter tire law in affect until March 15th, but applied for an exemption this morning so I could drive it and start breaking it in. Car felt great and everything seemed good. Three things that really stuck out though... First, twin plate clutches are as terribly loud as everyone says. Second, a 1.01 6466 might have been a tad on the small side for a built RB28. It instantly spools. I would not be surprised if it made boost on idle. Good for most, but I was hoping to use the size to limit lower end torque. Lastly, I did not toss my 3.3 final drive and nismo diff in yet. A CD009 with the original 4.3 final drive is comedic to drive. 1st - 3rd gears are useless and get you to 30kmh. 4th and 5th are used to accelerate and 6th is for cruising past 70kmh. I've never shifted so many times in such a short period of time before.

Technically speaking, skids already accomplished. If you noticed I mentioned In my last post I drove it out of the garage under its own power but had to winch it back into the garage.... that's because of just skids and no traction with summer tires on snow in my driveway trying to get back into the garage 😄

Over the last few weeks, I finally wrapped up the remaining items to get the car started and drivable. Starting with my 4" downpipe. She was a tight fit. I hated having to cut up a brand new compressor housing, but it is what it is. Welded on an elbow onto my 6466 housing. After first startup, I had a decent sized oil leak from the front behind timing cover that I had one hell of a fun time locating. Ended up being my intake cam seal. Somehow it was not pushed in enough, but I was able to amend it by just removing the valve cover and cam cap. I was happy I didn't have to remove everything to get it resolved. I was also very pleased to see my CD0009 conversion with dual plate clutch seems to be working great. Collins had told me this would never work with a milled down bell housing as apposed to using their adapter flywheel. I refused to use their adapter flywheels, as I really disliked the idea of having a lot more weight hanging out further from the crank and with a milled bell housing, I could retain stock shifter location. Besides that I also rebuilt my starter as it began sticking for some reason. That's working well now as well. I heat cycled it twice, set timing offset and fuel pressure and changed the oil. I was happy to be able to drive the car out on its own after a year of pushing it out of the garage and winching it back in. Could not go further then the driveway though as it's still winter here. Should be able to drive it around the block in about 2-3 weeks. After I got it running, I installed my upgraded Nissan Quest alternator with a 5-0 Ignite adapter. Quest alternators supposedly pump out a bit more then LS alternators. Last items I have on the list is to install my Haltech IO expander that has been on backorder for the last three months. Hopefully that arrives soon. I needed more inputs for Meth injection. I also received my Greddy oil cooler and Nismo GT LSD. Should wrap up the oil cooler this weekend and hopefully pull the diff next week.

If ever you don't get around to getting these to work, part# VL4951-P24 for a jobber set of these lifters that can still be purchased. I bought a set for 200-300$ from Tog in Australia roughly a year ago. My engine machinist is the one who recommended them. Cheers.

Over the last month I wrapped up most of my exhaust, fuel and ignition. Went with Radium fuel rail, damper, filter, FPR and 1200CC EV14's. Built my 3.5" catback out of an assortment of parts. Injectors needed tops removed and 14mm orings to fit. Also purchased a Nissan Quest alternator to keep up with the fuel pumps and R35 coil packs. I just have my 4" downpipe left to make to be able to start it up. It should start next weekend. I still have a fair bit of work left but it will be nice to hear it running again, it's been a long year.

For years now I've wondered what the purpose of the 4x center phillips screws is on an R32 GTR wing, and never got around to asking. Today is the day. What purpose do they serve? Screws on the actual wing and not the mounting bolts. Thanks.

Word of advice. If you're a younger gent, don't try to speed up the process by buying cheap ching chong meow ebay parts. Try and find the best bang for the buck and if it takes time, it takes time. RB20's have creeped up in price a fair bit but would also be a cheaper option then an RB25. They are fine for 300-400whp. Cheers.

Can't go wrong with OEM/Nismo parts. No noticable NVH.

Finally got around to filling my tank. My scaling ended up as 0.05V full, 1.10V empty.

We have roll over valves near the fuel tank above the diff. The 5/16 vent line goes to it before continuing to the engine bay. They are a normally open, and close when upside down.

I was trying to be polite but clearly you must of used your engineering degree to go into project management or something else non technical or you made that up because you have no idea what you're going on about. All fuel tanks are vented. Every single tank on every single car that has ever existed. Not including most tanks in general that hold liquids. That vent is required to equalize with outside pressure. For thermal expansion, so your fuel pump doesn't pull vacuum, so you can pump in gas at a gas station, etc. Cheers.

Your statement is incorrect. Your vent needs to well vent, so gas can come out the other end. You absolutely do not want to hinder that in anyway. Unfortunately with venting comes fuel vapours... Try and pour gas out of a jerry can with the vent closed. Same result.

I understand what you're saying, but by design whether you have a ball or flapper check valve, road dirt will never close it... Unless your check valve is normally closed in the direction vapour comes out which I would never do as that vapour should free flow out without restriction. Just remove it. It serves no purpose and might be causing more harm then good.

Check valve won't do anything to help against dirt unfortunately, you would require some sort of pressure for it to close. What is the second valve you mentioned? Evap purge valve?

I'm running an IC7 and Realdash. I had actually worked with Jani at Realdash to get it to work with some oem nissan ecu's over consult 2 years ago before his house unfortunately burnt down. We have not spoken since. I made the move over to Haltech but hopefully he incorporated the changes into a public release as it was 95% complete and working great.

Yea agreed, it's an orifice that drops the positive pressure or vacuum way down. In my case with a DBW throttle body, it's a different story as I don't have this nipple. As originally mentioned, I could tig a nipple onto my intercooler piping pre throttle with an appropriately sized orifice.

I have not seen a check valve on the "Signal VC" line anywhere on an R32/33. The positive pressure just pushes down on the diaphragm, closing the purge port. As for newer cars that use a purge solenoid, there's no need for the vc port as the ecu controls when to purge. We might be saying the same thing.

So I decided to test the canister and figure out exactly how it works. The top port marked "VC" that originally went to the throttle body does not react at all to pressure. It reacts to vacuum. When there's more vacuum on the VC port then there is on the purge port, it opens allowing a vacuum on the charcoal to regen the charcoal. Without this, the charcoal would become saturated from the fuel vapor going through it and into the bottom port that connects to the frame rail. With this being said, unless you pipe VC pre throttle and purge post throttle I believe your charcoal will saturate rendering the canister useless. I avoided this and the concern that the canister would not handle 35+PSI and decided to remove it and pipe the tank vent into the frame rail. In theory as you said with differential it would also open, but you require vacuum on the purge line to suck in fuel vapor so that rules out any situation outside of vacuum.

Nice car! Welcome to SAU.

It's funny you say that because we never had a 25-year import ban in Canada. Skylines and GTI-R's used to litter the streets... they were sold for peanuts as they were known as Japan's throw aways. We would laugh when we saw them as we presumed the owner was a poor high school student... times sure have changed. Here we are 15-20 years later and now that American's can buy them, we decided they're "Cool" now and worth 10x what we use to pay lol.

Thanks a lot! appreciate the kind words. I'm a big believer in buy once, cry once. I built enough cars with ebay parts in my youth to know the ramifications haha. Yea i'm always open to meet!