TurboTapin

I also originally had my CD009 paired up with a 4.36, but the constant shifting from 1-4 gear within the first 60km's got old fast. I switched it out for a 3.3. I've actually only put 50km's on that diff as it had issues and is back at my diff assembler but it feels much nicer.

If you run a 6spd CD009 or an R34 box you should. Only good time to do so though.

I run one of your R32 350Z Pedal/Bosch 82mm kits. I'm very happy with the kit and more so now with the revised pedal adapter plate. I'd definitely recommend it.

Check your timing and do a boost leak test.

That's not entirely true.... I've owned three Atoto head units and one of them has worked well 😆

Although they do seem to work, I personally would never trust epoxies on a block. I would constantly be concerned every drive is my last. Although cast iron is a pain in the rear to weld, it's very doable and this small part looks like a perfect candidate. I would also put more faith in brazing it vs a 2 part epoxy as well which will still require a lot of pre heat and post slow cool but would be easier to do.

I hate to disappoint, but my 272 9.30 lift Kelford cams idle butter smooth. I doubt your 260 Poncams will lump, unless idle control gets funny. I also watched the street syndicate video a few days ago that was posted here and he does a decent job of explaining how to set up rotational idle. You should be set.

Does Motive have a cap for R32's? I ask as my motive bleeder has been in a cabinet collecting dust for the last 5-6 years as I couldn't find one back then.

Nice car! Welcome.

I presumed most Americans imported their skylines from Canada since we've had them around for decades. We have a plethora of JDM shops in Montreal that export to the US. Just food for thought. I'm constantly selling parts to Americans on FB groups as it seems you guys cannot buy OEM JDM parts direct from the dealer, which I still have a hard time believing.

I run a 6boost twin gate manifold with a 4" downpipe and retained AC. I went with 2x 45's as well but it hugs the firewall a lot more then what you have pictured. I'm roughly 10mm from the rubber air conditioning drain but with heat wrap on the downpipe, it's fine.

Have you verified your driveshaft uni angle? With my single piece driveshaft on an R32, angle between trans and diff was far from ideal. I had to drop the engine a bit (Slotted out engine mounts) to get proper angle of -2/+2 between the two.

I received the replacement gear and pinion from Speedtek. My diff assembler is currently working on it. I've been having an intrusive thought of replacing my gen2 6466 with a Next Gen 6670. They're sales pitch is it's rated for 1100hp and spools like a gen2 6466. The car will be sitting in the garage until spring anyways... I'm not 100% sold on the idea yet but leaning towards it. Even if it does spool a little later, I would welcome it for torque management as my current gen2 6466 spools much faster then originally anticipated. Anyone looking for a well priced gen2 6466 with ~500km's at low boost ? 😅

First time I've ever heard an Emanage refered to as an EMU. I should have read the title. I thought we were talking about an Ecumaster EMU, which are great. I agree, they're garbage.

Since when are EMU's considered no bueno? What's wrong with them?

After a quick google search, they sell many tow bars for them, but the maximum towing capacity is 1000lb's. Just shy of 500kg. More than likely be just fine.

I ran one years ago in a 93 STI. They work great. Just slowly increase duty cycle until it reaches the pressure you're trying to achieve. Nobody will be able to tell you the exact duty cycle % you need for your setup for a specific boost. It will be trial and error.

AEM products are fantastic in my opinion and I have pushed to use them the last 20 years. Their fuel pumps are renowned for being indestructible (I run 2x), their ecu's have a lot more features then Haltech (Scripting, Proper IO testing, etc.) I've had zero issues with any of their products including Tru boost, widebands, WMI kits, etc. I wasn't ever aware of them being known for bad products, but if they did; it's changed.

That makes a lot of sense. Thanks.

I have no reason not to believe you, but I am curious. What hump?

Great point and I think the same.

I always presumed they shared the same carpet but I just looked in EPC and they do in fact have a different part# and price tag. Learn something new everyday.

Stock ECU or did you end up popping in that Haltech Platinum? I'm presuming the latter, if so have you set up your output, boost maps, etc.?

I reread his comment about 10x and have yet to see how it could be misconstrued as unhelpful.

Sounds like steel flexing with heat. Check your heatshield over your exhaust manifold to see if it's still bolted in properly.