TurboTapin

Yes, I mentioned it in my first that I did everything that is mentioned online (Redo dry solders, clean connector between PCB's, etc.) and unfortunately it didn't solve it. It crapped out again earlier today, so I replaced it. I'll keep the old one around to repair it at some point.

I also run a CD009. I'm currently on a 4.08 and it's not great. I originally intended to run a 3.3 but had issues, more on that later. I'd stick to anywhere between a 3.3-3.7 as found in the 350z. As for brands of ring and pinions, absolutely stay away from Speedtek. They are absolute garbage. See my build thread for more information on that. I went through two of there 3.3's and both had bad runout. They were paperweights and they have still yet to refund me. I ended up putting in a Nissan 4.08, which was better then the original 4.36 but is far from ideal. I'm going to pop a 3.5 in this winter. I'd stick Nissan. I've also heard of a company "Neat Gearboxes" that makes them. Haven't tried them, but they can't be worst then Speedtek...

Just for a good chuckle. I received the new climate control yesterday and just before starting to remove my old one, I decided to try it again... it worked and has worked since haha. I'm keeping the new one on the shelf as I know it will repeat itself again at some point.

It's just a regular Nissan part you can get from your dealer or online. Part# 28525-05U12. I just went and ordered one as I don't see any other option. Cheers.

Already done, along with confirming all the wiring to the unit checks out. It's more of a wild goose chase in hopes that someone else found a failed solder, bad component, etc. within the unit itself. I have a feeling I'll have to just order a new one.

It was pouring rain Friday night, and my windshield started fogging up. Went to turn on the defogger and to my surprise, my climate control doesn't turn on. The recirc and defogger light strangely stay lit though. I'm presuming it's dead, but has anyone had this before and resolved it? Looking this up online, I found a few mentions of bad solders on the connector between the two PCB's or the connector itself being dirty. I resoldered the connector on both ends and cleaned it but it's still not powering up. No other dry solders that I could see or any components that were toast. I found a few used ones at ridiculous prices (600-800$ CAD). A new one is 790$ shipped to my door. So as mentioned, before I order a new one, has anyone seen this and fixed it?

After a quick revisit, I'm now at 478rwkws @ 27psi on a mustang roller dyno.

That's unfortunately not an option due to the short length I need (~50mm). I've always ran submersible rubber hose without any issues. It is also what is in there from factory. Thanks for the tip though! I was back on the dyno again today to play with VCT rpm and knock thresholds. In the end, the best gains were with keeping VCT on until redline. I gained 15rwkw at the top end. I'm now sitting at 478rwkw @27psi on a mustang dyno. For science and not for bragging rights (I'm full of shit), next time I'm bored, I'll visit one of the many mainline hub dynos around me to do a pull. I'm confident it would be 500+rwkw on a hub dyno. Tuner once again mentioned I'm leaving a lot of power on the table due to my rev limit/hydro lifters. I may or may not entertain going solids at some point in the not so distant future. I also don't really need any more power for the street... it's already more then enough to kill myself. VID_20240627_151737.mp4

I have HSD Dualtechs and would not recommend them. I always planned on replacing them and I've been more so bothered by their excessive stiffness recently. Their time is limited. On another note, I will have a fantastic set of HSD Dualtechs for sale soon 😂

Your response is extremely similar to what someone on the Haltech tuning tips Facebook page answered me. I take it you're also on there haha. Dyno is booked for June 27th and that's exactly what I'll be doing. I also realized I never setup a pulse width adder table so I went and did that last night. Made a fair bit of fueling difference in low load areas. I sorted out my power steering belt woes. It was an alignment issue and it has now survived multiple instances of abuse that would have killed it prior. I also changed my fuel pump hose. The hose I replaced looks nothing like the legit gates hose I received. Real hose is actually 5/16" and is labelled properly. Amazon refunded me but has been giving me grief about my nasty review I'm trying to leave... I keep having to modify it for acceptance. I want to make sure the point gets across to others. Last issue I want to deal with soon is the slight vibration I get in my steering wheel with my GKTech Spacers in front. My annoyance has grown and I'm at a point where I want it resolved. I've tried everything I can come up with like clean spacers thoroughly, tighten in star pattern, retorque, have wheels rebalanced 4-5x with a variety of machines (2x with a Hunter elite). I've also taken the spacers off and remounted multiple times just in case. I'm starting to think my GKtech spacers are at fault. I'll pop a wheel off and toss a dial indicator on tomorrow to verify runout and parallelism.

I never cared for twins but whenever these conversations came up, I always presumed the higher number represented a larger turbo. Learn something new everyday.

Windshield wiper motor.

It should work without the car running. Confirm you see roughly the same resistance from the level wires at the back of the cluster. If they're good, your cluster is fubar. If not, start tracing that wire back.

First time I ever have issues with Amazon, but my wife often tells me to keep an eye out for fakes. It finally got me. I wrapped up the conversation with Gates. The gentlemen I was talking to seemed to hate his job but the response time on their technical support is outstanding. He stated that the hose is marked with some variation of "SAE J30R10" but that if you only purchase a 1 foot length like I did, it is possible to get a cut between markings and have a blank hose. To no ones surprise, he stated the swelling and "gummyness" isn't normal and to replace/buy from somewhere else (He mentioned NAPA). I'll toss a small end of the new one in gas for a few days before pulling the hanger out again, just to be safe. Hose should arrive Monday. For those running multiple pump in tank hangers, you know the joys of getting them out and back in. I'm surprised I haven't destroyed my level float yet. Lastly once I wrap all of this up, I'm planning on hitting the dyno again in 2 weeks while I'm on vacation. I realized recently that my VCT is set to turn off at 5000RPM. I'm surprised it wasn't increased while I was on the dyno last. I'm expecting I can increase it to ~6500RPM, if not more. Should hopefully get another 15-20kw out of it. I also want him to revisit my knock thresholds. I'm occasionally getting false knock around 3000rpm.

Gates is saying the same thing. They think I have the right bag with the wrong hose in it... I bought it off amazon, I'm thinking someone pulled a good old swapparoo and returned normal hose. Well looks like she's coming back out... Not very lucky with this hose lol.

Anyone here a submersible fuel hose expert? I pulled my hanger out again for unrelated issues and noticed the hose I popped on last week has already swollen. This is Gates 27093 submersible hose. I've waiting on a response from Gates, but this surely can't be normal? This is on pump gas, not E85. Is swelling a tad possibly normal? I've also been fighting with my power steering belt.... I've now tossed one and killed two. I just realigned my pulleys again, hoping this time it stays on. It doesn't like high rpm.

I just wrote to the author... What a tool. She also has a 2.5/5 rating on rate my professor. Julie Aitken Schermer - DAN Management - Western University (uwo.ca)

You won't make it out of your driveway. Both your rear wheels will go in whichever direction they feel. Your Hicas rack or a lockout bar is required to keep your wheels straight.

I had quite the scare last night. I was on the highway just toying around with an Audi. Right after an extended WOT pull, I lost all power. I cruised to a stop on the side of the highway and realized I had no fuel pressure. I keyed on/off a few times and could hear both pumps priming but pressure was still non existent. When you need a towing on a highway in Quebec, it's an automatic call to the provincial police. They don't mess around, they'll gladly destroy your car to get it off the highway asap. I pulled my bumper off as quickly as I could as to not have it destroyed getting it onto the truck. I got lucky as the tow driver was a car guy. He entertained the police while I finished up popping my bumper off and sticking it in my window. As we started taking off, the police drove by the tow driver to tell him we couldn't leave with the bumper sticking out the window. He pulled off on the first exit he saw, did a u turn and got right back on the highway in the direction of home lol. With no leak insight, the only thing I could think of was a torn FPR diaphragm or a popped hose inside my fuel tank. This morning on removal of my Radium twin pump hanger, one pump hose was completely shredded and the other was on the verge of the same fate. Both hoses had swelled to double their size... I have no idea how I ended up not using submersible hose but clearly that's what happened. To make things even worst, Radium supplies submersible hose with the hanger... So either they supplied the wrong hose or I had the wrong hose laying around when I assembled it. Looking over logs, my fuel pressure dropped to 0 roughly 10 seconds after a WOT pull. I was cruising and I'm confident the motors fine. Had that happened 10 seconds earlier, I'd more then likely be pulling the motor out. New hose arrives tomorrow, I'll put it back together then.

Yea I also was under this impression from various sources, but I figured it applied only to high speed I/O. I was not expecting any impact on such a slow input. Haltech should have an official statement of limitations or comm rates for these.

I thought I would share a few fun facts about Haltech products that I've learnt with their use that they don't share on their website. Haltech GPS speed - Extremely slow to react. It's fine for puttering around but I have no idea what speed I'm driving when in WOT due to the slow response time. This was always going to be temporary as I need mechanical wheel speed for eventual torque management, but it has just been bumped up a priority or two as it's a nuisance. Haltech I/O Expander - You often hear the response time is slow due to canbus comms, but I could not find concrete evidence and Haltech makes no mention of it. We'll now I have it. I mentioned in an earlier post that I thought my WMI mechanical pressure switch was causing a delayed response from my AEM WMI Controller to my ECU. My WMI begins to operate at 11psi, but my ECU was only getting an "On" signal around 19psi. After removing the pressure switch, there was no change. Luckily I connected my WMI Controller directly to the ECU the morning of my Dyno tune and there was a large improvement. I get the "On" signal around 13-14psi now. These remote IO boxes should be marketed for only non-critical I/O.

After recently being on a dyno, It seems I'm losing out on a fair bit of power with my RPM soft cut at 7600rpm and a gen2 6466. It's a fully Ferrea built S1 RB25 head with new hydraulic lifters. Can it safely be reved higher? If so, to what? I'm thinking I can safety increase it to 7800RPM.

2.8L Stroked S1 RB25 Fully built block (Spool&CP) and head (Ferrea & Kelford 272's). Hydro lifters. Precision 6466 Gen2 1.00 T4 Divided. 2x 40mm Turbosmart open dump gates. DW 1200cc injectors 2x AEM 320LPH Pumps Haltech Elite 2500, IC7, WB1, TC8, Etc. 4" Downpipe, 3.5" Catback. 94AKI (101.5ron) Pump gas + WMI (2x 1000cc nozzles) 463rwkws @ 27psi on a mustang roller dyno.

I finally got it on the dyno today and luckily it stayed in one piece! It wasn't without its dramas though. First off, sent my power steering belt to the moon around the third pull. Scared me half to death. Tuner laughed and mentioned that often happens with RB's... I may need to look into adding the Ross power steering idler, or something a long those lines. Second issue that came up was about 2 hours in, we realized the VCT wasn't working and had to go back through the timing and knock threshold once it was fixed (I had botched setting up VCT). That waisted a good hour or so. I was surprised to see that with VCT working, we saw a ~38rwkw difference across the powerband. More then I would of expected. Without further ado, made 463rwkw@27psi. Not the numbers I originally set out after, but still more then enough to kill myself and I'm very happy. Mustang roller dyno's are known to be heart breakers compared to other dyno's. Two things that limited me, first was the hydraulic lifters/7600rpm cut. Tuner was adamant that I was losing out on a lot of power up top because of it. Second was the pump gas & WMI. He wasn't 100% comfortable tuning with WMI, and was honest about it. He stated he's more confident on E85/Race gas. I look at this as a positive as it leaves me a lot of room for improvement. All in all, very happy! I need to see what I can do about that rev limiter... I use to rev my stock RB20 to 8000rpm and now I have a fully built head that I only rev to 7600... It's bugging me. Don't mind my fantastic picture/filming skills. RB28 - Dyno (1).mp4

That wiring looks like it was done by a 12 year old with a methamphetamine addiction. Start by redoing that disaster. What you're describing has nothing to do with your FPR vac source.