TurboTapin

Not much of an update. My differential has been sitting at my local shop since the beginning of June with no end in site... Dyno was supposed to be on June 28th but that has now come and gone. I dropped it off for a Nismo LSD and Speedtek 3.33 Final drive install. I should have just done it myself. Once they took it apart, they told me up to 4 weeks lead time for the remaining parts I did not have (Pinion bearings and Shims). This seemed plausible at the time and I didn't feel like arguing... after checking with Nissan well I could of had it all within a week maybe two due to requiring the bearings to be installed before measuring and ordering shims. Now it seems the tech working on my differential is on personal leave until July 10th and they have no further information for me. I'm not thrilled to say the least... While the car sits in the garage, I did take the opportunity to correct a few things that were bugging me. I had originally installed my BOV very close to my methanal injection nozzles. I did not think of it at the time, but this would more then likely lead to methanal being blown off everywhere in my engine bay. I moved the BOV to the OEM GTR location so it's downstream from my nozzles. I also changed my IAT sensor bung placement to be on more at an angle. It was filling up with methanal and not draining out as I had originally hoped. I also changed my oil and filter again. First time after first start up and this time around 450km's on the engine. Lastly I installed a 25psi cut in/10psi cut out pressure switch into my meth feed line for added safety. I now trigger my meth correction tables with Meth Controller/Pump run = 1, Meth Controller no fault = 1 and Pressure switch = 1.

Teflon Tape will be just fine in your application. First time I hear of anyone using RTV on threads.

We are not bound to any of those appliance or fuel gas standards. We're a federal company legally bound to pipeline standards (ex: CSA Z662) which we actively take part in writting. We are at a much higher pressure, see H2S and our gas doesn't stink like mercaptan thus the risk of a leak is much higher. They are enforced by the CER in canada and the FERC in the US who do yearly site visits and all new constructions have full time inspectors. Leak detection and repair is a very heated topic. If in any of those standards it states using both tape and dope/sealant is fine or makes reference to a procedure to do so, I'd love to see it. Our tubing generally starts and stops with a threaded fitting. Our above ground pipelines are riddled with tubing and threaded fittings for instrumentation. Underground portions have everything welded. Tape will often be just fine, but at the end of the day if you can wait out the 24h cure, thread sealant alone is the better option.

Incorrect. Our pipelines generally see 7000+ kpa and so do all those small instrumentation lines with threaded fittings. Swagelok Swak thread sealant for example is rated to 69000kpa. As for mixing tape and sealant, find me one oem document that recommends it? I've also heard of low pressure pipe fitters doing this but it doesn't make it right.

That 4$ role of Teflon tape might be standard practice and do a great job in low pressure residential, commercial and industriel fuel gas connections with mercaptan present and the dangers of a leak are minimal but it is not standard in the rest of the oil and gas industry. I work for one of the largest oil and gas pipeline companies in North America. The only teflon tape allowed on any site is swagelok tape and it's not cheap.

Thread sealant is generally the better choice and not to be mixed with tape. Some of the rare cases sealant is not recommended is on non PTFE plastics, freons and anything to be used with food or beverage. Thread sealant is also always the better choice for gas. Unfortunately its biggest down fall is having to wait for it to cure before putting it back into service. Another issue with Teflon tape and most gases is the wrong Teflon tape is often used... White Teflon tape belongs in your kitchen and bathroom and that's it unless using very expensive products like Swagelok whose white tape is universal.

I run a gen2 6466 1.00ar divided T4 on my 2.8 and it spools wickedly fast. If you're aiming for 750-800whp, I think it's a great choice. If you're looking at 900whp+ I'd go 6870.

Very nice sir! Good job. When do you plan and getting it done?

They're from Cardone, a very large reputable parts manufacturer/remanufacturer in the US/Canada. I have zero concerns.

I got my genuine Brembo stamped 350z track edition calipers for 265$ a pop off Amazon. Both calipers, StopTech disks and a set of Hawk HPS pads came in around 1000$. I have heard though that when ordering from Cardone it's a mix of remanufactured Brembo's and new clones. Cardone 19-3858 Remanufactured Import Friction Ready (Unloaded) Brake Caliper, Tools & Equipment - Amazon Canada

They don't sell the lock barrels anymore, but they do still sell the barrel switch and wiring which is more then likely what you need. Part# 48750-D4500. 30$ If for whatever reason you need the whole kit, 3gspares.co.nz has a used set.

PCV Valve is the one on your manifold that is capped off. Be careful repurposing the oem pcv lines. The original line between exhaust side valve cover and intake has a small orifice inside it.

350z track edition Brembo's and disks can be had new for peanuts. That's what I run.

This sounds like an incorrect release bearing length/travel or clutch pedal adjustment issue to me. If your transmission is still on the car, remove your slave cylinder and by hand pushing your clutch fork, how much play is there before the release bearing touches the flywheel? If your transmission is off, better yet; ask your clutch OEM for a clutch release bearing checking guide. I can supply you one from ACS that more than likely applies to any clutch if needed.

Is this a RWD box? If so, fill it through the shifter hole.

He hasn't been on in a month. I already miss his posts...

This can be milled out regardless with a long enough cutter but finding an end mill, etc. long enough is the issue. I've heard of 12" end mill cutters, and I'm presuming someone somewhere makes them longer but you may still need to hit it from both sides which makes it more of a pain for alignment. For the reason above, I only ended up enlarging my head to 10mm. My S1 RB25 passages look identical to yours. I'm presuming it was slightly off in certain castings.

Oh.. right he did say that in his original post. I should read before commenting.

All these parts can be purchased at your local Nissan dealership over here in Canada, is it not the same elsewhere?

Due to such little surface area between the input shaft and pilot bushing, it had already began chewing it up. I don't believe It would have lasted much longer then 6 months. Haha I remember the first time I started the car and pushed in my clutch pefal and said ohh that's not so bad.... Then I drove it and first heard the lovely chatter. My neighbor's must think the cars broken.

Nothing very interesting to report. I've just been street tuning and breaking it in slowly. I'd like to drive it around another 1000km's or so and do another oil change before hitting the dyno. This has given me time to fix a few issues that have come up though. 1. My intake cam was leaking oil ever so slightly. Traced it back to the cam seal, it was completely torn... I must of given it one to many wacks during install. Surprised it wasn't leaking more. 2. My VCT cam gear decided to make a god awful sound for roughly 10 minutes while driving/idling, not long after removing it to replace the above mentioned cam seal. Has not come back and VCT is still operating properly. I'll keep an eye on it. I had read this occasionally happens but I wish I could better understand exactly what causes the noise. 3. When originally popping in my pilot bushing, I noticed it was slightly looser then what I'm use to seeing. At the time I went ahead and popped the transmission on anyways. About three weeks ago, a realization came to mind of what if while installing my trans, the input shaft gripped the side of the pilot bearing a tad and drove it in further then it should be. I pondered for a week and finally after realizing I was losing sleep over it, I pulled the trans. Hold and behold, it was sitting as deep as it could in my crank. The input shaft was only making contact on roughly 4mm of the bushing and was already eating it up. I'm very happy I pulled it off... I drove in a new slightly larger pilot bushing with retaining compound to be extra safe. By the way, this probably goes without saying but the low end torque between a 2.8 and my old 20det is night and day... Having ran a supercharged 5.5L just prior, the 20det was very underwhelming under 4-5K. I know I've also mentioned it before but god damn double plate clutches sound terrible... Makes a spun bearing sound fantastic. Lucky it only sounds horrid when in low gear/low rpm.

You'll need a top mount manifold. Turbo choice will depend on what power you're chasing and stay far away from maxspeedingrods products.

I just gave it a try and it's a no go without an addition wheel sensor. The error states "Traction Control for rear wheel drive requires at least one rear wheel sensor (Or drivetrain sensor) and at least one front wheel speed sensor."

I was under the impression that Haltech does not allow the use of their GPS speed for traction control. It must be wheel speed sensors.

If you're unaccustomed to engine internals and noises, you should cease driving it and seek a local mechanic. You only seem to be assuming it's lifters based on very little information. "Marbles" does not sound good.