Neostead2000

Yeah it's a bit weird seeing a '96 car optioned without ABS. I confirmed this by no module, no extra brake pipes, no fuses for it and the steering knuckles have not been drilled for the sensors. Cleaner engine bay I guess? I am still a bit confused about the relay situation, though. From what I understand, the relay that is meant to sit there by the ECU is called an "EGI" relay diagram number 25224C which supplies power to the ECU and keeps the pump primed with key ON. I have seen pictures of looms online, they do in fact have a single relay+connector sticking out of the loom wires just before the ECU plug however on the loom I bought it's not there, there were about 4 wires cut short so I am 99% certain it may have been that relay? If so, could I get a standard 30amp relay from the store or find an OEM one from another Nissan and wire that in? Also there seems to be 2 fuel pump relays at least based on FAST diagrams. One sits next to the brown defogger(rear) relay behind the driver side kick panel and another sitting next to the rear fuse box. I seem to be missing the front one also. I am just unclear whether somebody pulled those two relays when they took out the main engine loom or if the car never came with those? It also seems to have a TOAD security system installed which I want to remove. It seems to have a plethora of wiring going around that area, could they have removed those relays because of the system itself? Maybe it doesn't need those so they just deleted them? In any case I will be doing a fuel pump rewire which includes a separate 30 amp relay so I guess the other relays wont matter. What I need to finish is to re-pin and reorganize that medium sized white latch connector so the loom inputs I have match the car-side female plug pins. And I just did some more digging and I think I have a better idea now. There are meant to be three connections at that area next to the ECU. I found a picture of somebody's S1.5 car and it shows nests for the small, medium and big connector. I have the big one both sides, and I only have the female small side. It appears the small and medium connectors are related to the ABS system entirely. This is super weird because my car allegedly is non-abs??? Could someone have taken out the entire system AND also swapped to non-abs knuckles? Seems too much work. Here is a picture I found and labeled over.

Believe me for the past 3 weeks I've been doing nothing but wiring and I've extensively looked through the colored wiring diagram however something still doesn't add up. These two connectors are the only connectors hanging around the ECU location, and there is no relay(s) attached there either. There is one big latch-type female connector and a smaller 18 pin female plug next to it. The ECU connector itself is not in the picture because I have the engine harness off and still working on it. It itself has two male connectors, one which mates up to the bigger one in the picture with the latch, and another shorter one with 30 pins (some missing). That one does not have a female receptacle at the ECU area so I'm unsure if that's related to A/T, ABS, Attessa or whatever other system. Car is an 06.1996 R33 GTS-T 25DET Manual non-abs spec 2. It came with no gearbox or engine and no loom so I am starting to think the PO may have pulled other parts of the loom as well? Everything else seems to be there. There are a few relays in the boot, one next to the rear fuse box, one near the boot latch, another (brown) one beneath the cabin fuse box (near driver's feet). Starting to think there is a difference in connector and relay layout between spec 1 and 2?

Yup, look for a mechanical fault around the hairspring assembly, it may have failed from age and causing the needle to read higher sometimes, or if there's debris or stuck grease around it. Also UFOs do like to sight see around down undah so that's also a highly probable scenario. Don't know which part you're from but especially the coastlines around Western Australia are notorious for this. 👽

I was sold an engine wiring loom (half intact half cut) from a Gloria with an RB25DET Neo allegedly. I have spent close to two weeks trying to trace all the wiring while looking at THREE different wiring diagrams but neither matches. This loom has completely different colored wiring and I cannot match it 100% to a standard Skyline loom. Is there a database with wiring schematics for all versions of Glorias with a 25DET? The one I have does include Y34 RB25DET schematics but like I said, the wire colors are completely different on every single terminal, sensor and solenoid. I'm going insane. There are especially two 8 pin connectors (black and gray) coming off the same harness near where the ABS module is meant to be and they have both been cut. I think one powers the wipers but unsure.

What about the pre-existing fuel dampers which Nissan put, all 3 of 'em? At least on my neo there are 3, one right after the fuel pump inside the tank, one mounted on the strut tower and one on the inlet side of the fuel rail. Having rubber lines actually helps with pulsation dampening, but it is true that bigger injectors like to "pound" harder inside the line especially at certain resonances. Also I've had that same AFPR gauge behavior on my other car (which has 1000cc jets and NO fuel dampers) and it was an improperly set pressure (way too high) which caused the spring to get mega stiff and was bouncing up and down inside. P.S if your gauge has a little valve on the side, make sure to "pop" it once to reset and recalibrate it to your ambient pressure right now. Liquid filled gauges love to read off by tons if they have never been recalibrated and ambient pressures have changed.

Thanks, but it's just gold wheel paint from a spray can. I doubt it will last long but wanted to spice it up a bit. Looks the same in regular light as it does in the pictures though. As for the top hose I had to trim it some more then add a 32mm OD barbed joint which also needed trimming to about 60mm in length. Everything is assembled now and got about 7 liters of coolant in, has sat for a few days with no leaks but again have not started it yet.

Okay so just to reiterate and give some further confirmation, the radiator hoses between R33 and R34 ARE IN FACT DIFFERENT!!! The lower radiator hose has a wider inlet for the thermostat neck which means NEO engines have a smaller neck on the thermostat housing confirmed. However, I cut the wider section out entirely and the hose fit perfectly so that's a save. The bigger problem remains with the top radiator hose as Brendan suggested. The hose not only has a different angle to it (it's close to 120 degrees compared to 90 deg on the NEO), but it's also just too short. First I had to cut about 25mm from the manifold side and then I need to find a 65mm long piece of 32mm OD tube to fill up the gap. Then use a secondary hose to reach the top radiator inlet. It's not ideal and it just means one more point of failure but honestly I don't have much choice here it's not like I can order the OEM stuff and have them at my door the next day, simply impossible. In conclusion, the R33 radiator hoses that are also marketed for R34 DO NOT BOLT UP 100% and WILL NEED trimming and modification. Here are some pics for future people.

I had issue with this also the other day when I was attaching the gearbox to the motor. What did the trick was a bit of grease (not much) on the tip of the input shaft so it goes in nice into the pilot bushing, after the tranny was slightly in and making contact with the clutch plate (confirmed by rotating everything), I took a big block of wood, positioned it at the tail end and started whacking it with a big hammer. Surely enough, it started going in. Then I threaded in the 4 long bolts just a bit and kept hitting it and threading the bolts until the trans went flush with the dowel pins. Of course had to make sure the gearbox was aligned good when hitting it from the back, it was 2 of us doing it.

Buddy you're just the best!!! It took me awhile to see the arrows because I was focusing on those sexy fuel lines and filter setup 🤭 Also @GTSBoy I realize you're making a snide joke but in my case I am missing the ENTIRE section of that loom, so I don't have the alternator-starter-transmission harness to even trace wires. That's why I needed to see a visual indication of the OEM locations since I will be building that part of the loom from scratch and last thing I want is to start a fire. So just to recap, it seems the grounds on a stock 25DET 33 are as follows: 1. Engine block (near dipstick) to chassis rail. 2. Alternator to chassis rail (same point as above) 3. 2x next to the coolant temp sensors at water outlet. 4. Passenger side strut tower to exhaust manifold 5. One earth cable at the back of the motor 6. One earth cable near left headlight 7. One earth cable near right headlight It's much clearer now. Thanks guys!

The diagrams are good but visual pictures would help best. Can anybody please show pictures of where exactly the engine body earth cable is bolted to? Also it appears the alternator has one earth connected to it also, but where does the other end go to?

So is there a clear answer to this? My 33 with RB20 NEO transplant is missing the two big radiator hoses and I am confused at which ones to get. Most of the aftermarket two-hose kits list them for R33 and R34 combined, and I cannot tell from the pictures whether they will fit. Do NEOs have a smaller diameter at the thermostat neck? And is there a significant difference on the top hose curvature?

The 4 bolts on an R33 chassis at least are M10x1.25 x 30mm long. I recently had to buy those fasteners since all mine were missing. I also put a lock washer + normal washer on those for good measure.

Last update to this, I'm probably the only person who's ever going to be in this pickle since I know you guys in NZ/Aus have an abundance of the right parts, but still I had to improvise because shit is just too hard to get and overpriced. Ended up modifying the RB20 brackets and they ended up really nice, close to OEM and the motor sits good in the engine bay. It may look cocked to one side but that's because I was supporting it with my jack at the rear of the sump. I am confident once I get the transmission on and its bracket, it will line up true. I even slapped the head on it and tested my rear head breather, it has plenty of clearance from the heater hoses and bulkhead!

I believe Nissan may have also done a technical explanation/write up on their own version of this, but Toyota have the EXACT same systems on some of their equivalent motors, both the "torque valve" in the center of the Y-pipe and the "swirl valves" just before the head ports. Here are some brief infos about it, taken a re-quote from the Toyoda forums: ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ ---Theory---- Using laws of inertia, thermodynamics and physics the toyota engineers discovered that the opening and closing of the intake valves creates acoustic energy pulses that bounce around inside the intake manifold and chamber. They then developed a system, called ACIS, to control and manipulate those acoustic pulses to create a "supercharging" effect. By varying the length of the intake runners through the use of valves, the toyota engineers found a way to time the acoustic pulses so they enter the cylinders through the intake valves. This means that after an intake valve closes and creates this acoustic pulse, the pulse bounces off the intake runner and chamber and then is timed to enter at the next intake cycle so the valve is opened with a pressurized acoustic wave being forced into the cylinder. ---Application--- Toyota has many NA engines that utilize the ACIS system. (7m-ge, 2jz-ge, 2jz-fe, 1mz-fe, ect, ect) In our case, the 7mge, there is a butterfly valve (intake air control valve(IAC)) placed in the middle of our intake manifold behind the union of the Y-pipe. This valve is controlled by an ACIS actuator. The Actuator is controlled via vacuum provided by the either the throttle, VSV's or the ECM ( or all three). There is a vacuum storage tank located beneath the intake manifold and that is connected to a port near the Intake air control valve. ---Operation--- I'm not sure on the switchover throttle position for the 7mge, but the activation RPM is 4200. Before that point at WOT, the Air control valve is closed, meaning that the cylinders are getting shared air from just behind the throttle body. This means that the engine is utilizing long intake runners. Under WOT, past 4200 rpms, the air control valve is opened and the cylinders are now getting shared air from the center of the intake manifold, meaning the engine now has shortened intake runners. ( see diagram on site) On the 2JZ-FE engine, there is an activation rpm of 4,500 and a 30% throttle crossover map. meaning.... low throttle... ( less than 30%) <4500 rpm = valve open ( short runners ) >4500 rpm = valve close ( long runners ) high throttle... ( more than 30%) <4500 rpm = valve close ( long runners ) >4500 rpm = valve open (short runners ) This system ( two stage acis) essentially gives you two torque curves. The valve is timed to open on the downfall after the first peak, so the engine has potential to make equal or more power later on throught the power band. --- Modification --- Modifying the ACIS system is not recommended because it has been tuned for the specific engine. But the thought does provoke interest. If by changing the activation RPM and/or throttle %, could you tune where you want your torque to peak? I have the ACIS system on my now turbocharged 7M-GE and remarkebly it has still provided two torque curves between the designated 4200rpm. I plan to do some experimentation with ACIS during my next trip to the dyno. I will perform runs with the valve closed ( long runners), with the valve open ( short) and then multiple runs using different activation RPMS. If this system can yield more power because of its changing attributes, then it may be a desired modification for mid-power performance enthusiasts. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- My thoughts: It is very possible that the engineers decided to not use these systems on their turbocharged versions due to diminishing returns, meaning the increased airflow and airspeed from the forced induction is outweighing the benefit of these valves so they completely removed them to simplify the overall package and less airflow disturbance inside the runners. That said, it's not a clear-cut answer and we have to remember that the OEMs first and foremost prioritize cost and reliability. If they didn't, then we'd be looking at mass market cars which are pretty much F1 track cars worth millions :). Interestingly most modern engines especially from the VAG group do in fact use those same valve systems in their GDI and diesel engines, which all come turbocharged from the factory. They simply have gone more in-depth and figured out a way to make the systems be effective both under low-RPM low-load conditions as well as once the engine is fully charged. Meaning, these are not snake oil or gimmick systems they once implemented. This stuff works. The good thing in our case is that Nissan, Toyota and Mitsubishi have given us the switchover points/values for when these valves open and close, and with modern aftermarket ECUs we are more than capable of fully reconfiguring when they start to work and how. Personally I am also doing an RB20DE +T and will initially run the stock intake plenum and Y pipe. I will compare how the car performs with the systems active with stock values, deactivated completely and then configured to open/close at different RPMs and throttle positions. Simulating long intake runners increases air velocity, which in turn can increase the rate at which exhaust exits the head and flows into the turbocharger, which in turn would have an effect on spool-up.

Cheers Dyl(an?), those make sense even for my GTST. And Duncan I was unaware the GTR came with that style suspension, I'm only just getting familiar with my poverty spec 33 😳 And I just noticed OP was asking about his GTR specifically so I was in error.

Mate sorry to be a twat but I'm trying to understand what you're saying but I can't. I believe you might be mixing up the term ball joint with bushing? As the lower control arm (transverse link?) has one outer ball joint and one inner bushing. The upper control arm has 2 small bushings and 1 big bushing. The diagonal arms have two nuts and 1 big bushing. I am trying to find out all the torque specs for those components for a 33 but there does not seem to be a manual that covers this. Also the 4 main nuts holding the subframe to the chassis.

I know the engine sits tilted towards the passenger side but the oil sump itself is tilted also and it looks to be parallel to the subframe and ground. I also thought I had the brackets wrong way round so I switched them and the bolt holes did not line up at all, so that wasn't it. After further research it appears I do in fact have RB20 mounts which are paired with the rectangular Nismo rubbers (40mm high), and the RB25 mounts come in two kinds, cast aluminium or stamped steel that are paired with the big circular rubbers like in your link. None of this was really documented anywhere so hopefully this thread will shed some light for people in the future.

This just keeps getting worse and worse. I'm at my wits end with this shitbox already regretting getting a Skyline. So I finally got the R33 25det subframe shipped to me from the UK and when I test fitted it what do you know IT ALSO DOESN'T FIT!!! I'm throwing a tantrum here but rightfully so. Can someone tell me what in the world is the problem? Is the problem the fact that its a 20 block? I assumed their mounting locations and bolt holes are identical across 20/25/26? The rubber mounts themselves are not the issue as these are BMW mounts 100% identical to the Nissan square ones that came (they were torn and unusable). Regardless, the problem is the surfaces are not remotely parallel to each other so it's not the rubbers. I'm suspecting it's the metal brackets. The person I got them from said they were from an RB20DET and he assured me they would fit a 25 block also, which in turn would logically mean they would fit an R33 chassis? Unfortunately I am out of funds for this kind of crap so tomorrow I will be trying to cut these where I have marked with yellow lines and welding a new gusset. My understanding is that the oil pan's bottom naturally is parallel to the ground and to the subframe so I'm using that as a guide. I don't know how wide the gap needs to be between the oil pan and the subframe either. What a headache 😖

Thanks for the offer, but I have already found a 25det r33 front subframe from the UK and it's already on its way to me. Even still, I am slightly worried the engine mount and bracket combination might be wrong. Why did Nissan make so many different variations of parts on these damn cars?!

Slight hiatus over the summer months; in the meanwhile I was procuring the rest of the missing bits and pieces including an R33 GTT 5 speed transmission and a good ol' HX35 twin scroll turbo. Super excited for when those parts come to life! For the past 2 weeks I finally worked on the engine bay and it got the same treatment as the boot, however this time I decided to try out using a spray gun for the first time with my little 24L compressor. Now, let me preface this, I've never sprayed with a gun like this before and I've never had to mix paint. Additionally, I had bought the cheapest possible gun (Parkside LVLP from LIDL for like $15) so I guess I shouldn't have expected anything great. When I went to mix the paint, I ended up confusing the hardener and thinner ratios so the paint came out different and produced A LOT of runs (I was also spraying close to some areas, my fault...). Also, the gun had a factory defect where the spray needle was not retracting quick enough after letting go of the trigger, which made it DRIP lots of paint over my work area and over the panels. In the end it was a MESS but I got good coverage and in fact the strut tops became super smooth and glossy! I ordered factory QM1 paint so the engine bay would be color matched with the outside of the car. As for prep work, same as before. Chiseling/wire wheeling all the old seal sealer, undercoat and rusty areas. Then treating with rust converter, then epoxy primer. Then, I tried using masking tape and applying seam sealer that way. It does look a bit neater I must say. Definitely not as sloppy as from the factory! Enough writing, let the pics do the talking!

So just a little update for anyone wondering, this has been 100% confirmed S15 SR20 front subframe. The entire rest ofthe front suspension is bolt on, control arms, R33 steering rack, hubs. While I'm still looking for a GTST subframe I decided to make my own adapter brackets for the engine mounts, similar to the kit ISR sells but just the two mounts. I got the angles and distances right (the bolt hole centers on the adapter brackets need to sit 125mm FORWARD of the S15 mounting holes!) and the driver side bracket needs to be angled slightly more than the other. However even with these, I cannot mount the custom turbo oil return line I have made for the HX35. The tube bends too far out and clashes with the S15 stock mount point. For this to work, a significant portion of that point will need to be cut out just so the pipe can go through it. Definitely not something I want to do.

Wish I could help with advice but I haven't yet assembled my 20Neo. One thing I've read on the forums here especially about the Neos is a bad ground on the coolant temp sensor. During cold startup the ECU always runs in open loop until a set of parameters have been met and usually ignores the CTS. After awhile it switches to closed loop and starts following your CTS reading. However, if the ground is bad, it will be sending funky signals (if at all) and thus cause the motor to run poorly.

If I was to find a proper 33 gtst subframe would my RB20 be able to sit on it with these brackets?

Gosh darn it, it's already been hell finding the missing parts for this car, now a subframe?! Will have to modify the mounts or the subframe then but I've got no idea how I would get the motor to sit like OEM. What a mess. 😢

As I went to paint my engine bay I had to remove the entire subframe and after looking at it for a little bit I then started to compare with pictures from others and their R33s, and mine looks different to theirs! What I mean is, the two faces where the engine mounts bolt up are completely in-line with the entire frame, whereas all other R33 GTST pics I've seen have the locations sticking further outward (towards the front) and are in-line with the forward-most bolt. I am attaching a picture of my subframe (LEFT) and a random R33 GTST subframe (RIGHT). My chassis is an ECR33 factory spec 2 GTS-T RWD. Is this some sort of oddball that left the factory or has the previous owner done a subframe swap? If so, I cannot imagine how an RB20/25 would fit inside the bay with the mounts situated close to 10 centimeters back towards the bulkhead. Interestingly there is not a single thread or video talking about such differences so I am coming here for your advice.