Hardman69

Yeah, it's the super-weakness. It's not only short-sighted, but also massively mis-directed effort, achieving . . . . . . . . . . what exactly ? ? Similar story up at SpringNats last year. The turnout at DECA was PITIFUL, because so many people had been burned so hard, so relentlessly by the fuzz in the last few years. There was an official "SuperCruise" organised for the Sunday morning up & down the main street, with all traffic blocked off. I saw 3 cars and 2 trucks turn out. I saw a V.tidy SS Commo ute displayed, that got defected. . . . . . 'coz the sponsor's sticker across the top of the windscreen touched the driver's side wiper-blade. What sort of moron cop defects THAT?! Is it not TOTALLY obvious that the sticker won't be there a week later, when the show's over ? Maybe it's a lack of understanding from the policia - perhaps they just don't "get" that most cars at these events (ESPECIALLY AutoSalon) are dragged out from under their covers a few weekends a year, mainly to go on show. I s'pose it's simply easier to bust responsible enthusiasts @known events for minor technical infringements in front of some cameras, than it is do SOME ACTUAL POLICE-WORK and clamp-down on the sort of knobs that caused the Noble Park Maccas sh!tstorm . . . .

Haha - Yup, weather's like that! Last time I was up there, I rattled off a few mid->high 1:43's before lunch, when it was still low 30-degree temps. After lunch it climbed to mid/high 30's (37 max I think) and even though I drove harder, braked later, treaded closer to the edge through the turns, couldn't get below 1:44 even again. Admittedly I do tend to over-drive at every available chance, but I put in some genuinely tidy, fast laps in the afternoon . . . for no gain ! (still heller-good fun though) Oh - I've put $5 brake-ducts on at all four corners (thankyou bunnings) and that's still not enough to keep MY brakes cool on a high-30 degree day. I do brake suicidally late though - a legacy of racing Karts for a few years. (adding more ducts to the rear for this one, and water-mist cooling in the front ducts, to go with the intercooler/radiator spray)

Hey Y'all, just a heads up that I'm going with a few mates to Winton, open Friday on March 2nd. The friend with the Lotus is bringing R-compounds to the party (so naturally I got some today) and we're shooting for a 1:40 (hopefully a shade under). So if anyone's interested, holla - I've been twice before, and there's always heaps of interesting machinery (911 GT3 cup cars are AWESOME blasting past like you're standing still!!!!!), and the other folk there are all petrolheads, and GREAT to talk with. It's generally 6x20 or 25 minute sessions, with the canteen open all day, and petrol onsite. A downer is that entry has just been bumped-up to $120, and now you need either a CAMS level-2 licence, or a $50 (available onsite) AASA trackday licence. (The AASA licence is valid at Calder & Wakefield too). Oh, and I've seen a couple of Supras there before, and I know of at least 1 that's headed up this time, but NEVER any SKYLINES (other than mine) . . . . . Where's the love? ! ! REPRESENT ! ! -Nathan.

Hey everyone - I've got a set of HKS Hiper-D coilovers on my R33, and I need to know how to adjust the bump/rebound settings on the dampers. Which way is firmer / softer ? Does the inside or outside adjuster control bump? How many clicks are there? What happens If I adjust too far one way ? Thanks guys.

I got a series 2 '95 R33 GTS-T. My diff doesn't do sh!t. I think it's a viscous LSD, but it has no effect, might as well be an open diff. I'll try changing the oil and adding a friction modifier, and get back to you.

I'd say get a straight, level boot-lip to run between the quarter-panel edges and fill the visual gap.

I burned through 1/2 a tank in under 100kms through the hills on the weekend. That tank was finished on the highway and ended up 17L/100kms. Normally 13L/100km, best so far is 11L/100km driving like a saint 90% of the time. :angel: oh - Series 2 R33 widt teh cat-back N1 drainpipe

As far as I know, ALL R33 GTS-T's are M-Spec. The only difference between any of them is that some got an active diff, which is apparently quite rare. I looked at around 10 Series 2 R33's, and test-drove 4 of them. I didn't like the brake pedal in ANY of the ABS-equiped cars - they all felt soggy and pooh in general. My car (non-ABS) has a shift-kit of some kind and the gearbox feels FANTASTIC for having it, if a little notchy for some people. Apparentley they all have a flat spot in the power curve at 5,000rpm when the boost increases, and I'll be fixing that with an Apexi AVC-R boost controller and PowerFC engine computer. My HICAS warning light kept coming on, and the speedo kept dropping out too, but that seems to have been fixed by taking the instrument pod out and cleaning all the contacts. My Diff's getting a little noisy too - and it doesn't do any limiting of slip either. Oh well.... Private sale cars seem to run $17500 -> $21000 and importers/yards seems to start at $20,500 and go up from there. I love My baby :love:

DANG that's a good price Messiah ! ! Is the HandController cable long enough to mount the H.C. anywhere you want on the dash? Have you played widt teh HC interface yet? is it usable without knowing Japanese? Noice work in anycase. :headspin:

Noice, Noice. Yeah, I got me a '95 plated Series II GTS-T too. Dual airbags, no ABS. (white with GTR rear wing). I got it checked out by the guys in the FAST thread - all seems 100% legit. All the ABS R33's I drove had soggy, vague brake pedals, anyway - so I'm pretty stoked to have a non-ABS car ! ! ! I had my mod-list finalised a week after bought my new toy. Now I've chosen all my brands, specs etc except for switchable boost-control. any ideas?- just gotta sell my old car and I can order it all in from Japan - JOY ! !

Patience, Messiah-sahn. SERIOUSLY - just wait 'til you can get it on a dyno. Ping is BAD, mmmokay. Don't risk the cylinder head or the pistons coz you can't wait a couple of weeks. Ask if you can watch the tuning, ask them to explain how to tweak settings small amounts, if you find it's pinging/knocking on a freak hot day or something. Find out how much a given fuelling change affects A/F ratios at given rpm/load points etc. - so you can add or pull-out fuel if need be in the future. I'm most-likely getting a PowerFC soon too (R33 GTS-T) - can you tell me how it goes, what you paid etc.? - Did you get the handset with it?

Good stuff Nozilla. Have you noticed much of a difference in lag, spool-up time or power? I'm thinking of running hot air into passenger side of fmic, and cool air up through the plastic splash pan beneath the Alternator etc. on the driver's side. This neatly avoids having to cut steel, and gets that piping close to minimum length. Has anyone heard of it being done this way before? Oh yeah - I couldn't find how much you had to cut from the back of the front bumper - looks like a fair bit got the chop though . . . . : (

I'm a total whore for anything race style 5-spoke, and most sweet six-spokes. I'm buying these, coz they're under $1000 in Japan (where I'm getting them from): A-Tech "FinalSpeed cast" - Not a bad ripoff of the Gramlights methinks. I Also considered the Wedsports SA-90, and the Voltec Racing RGR

I drove all through the dandenongs with a coupla mates' cars yesterday, no problems. On the way to work last night it came on around a long, constant, R.H. bend in the freeway. - I think it's coz of the small amount of slack that's developed in the steering, coz I had the wheel held nearly straight to turn the corner. Series II R33 b.t.w. P.s. - Has anyone actually grown to LIKE the creepy HICAS rear-steer when pushing-on through corners? It weirds-me-out bigtime.

I've been looking all over the back of my car to try and find the big "RACE ME" sticker, but I can't find it. Maybe I'm just not looking hard enough. I've had my (white, admittedly) R33 GTS-T 2 bloody days, and I've already had a knob in a half-crashed Supra try and race me on the way to work. Gheeesh!! I just accept that the roads are full of spazoids trying to have an accident one way or the other. Road Ragers (some dudes are just NUTS!), people half asleep, half-crazed Taxi drivers, who think they're still driving in whatever 3rd world country they just emmigrated from, etc. etc. etc. etc. -you know, the usual. I guess I've got years of prejudice and abuse to look forwards to! Thankfully I've only had mates and genuinely car-savvy people talk to me about it. (so far) p.s. - It's no coincidence that the boy-racers who buy a turbo-import to street race are also the ones getting clocked at 180km/h, and wrapping themselves around hard, pointy, non-moving things. I couldn't really give a stuff about the silly pricks, except it makes it realy hard for Me to insure a Skyline, and screws up their family's life. I waited till I turned 25 to get the 'line - SCREW paying $3800 /yr insurance!!!! It also makes jap-turbo drivers an easy target for police, politicians and worst of all - the media, who have alot to answer for, the scapegoating bastards.

NiiiiCE work there fella. What happened with the thermo-fan? Did you ditch it? is it still sitting in the factory position, sandwiched between the aircon core and the intercooler? I've already got my parts list for my R33 series II GTS-T, and I've had it one day!

That IS a nice kit . . . Do you have a FULL exhaust? A proper dump pipe and big cat would have to speed-up spool times methinks. I'd say go the body kit if you get all "cosmetic" on your car though, as I personally don't think there's much difference between the rims. Have you considered something like this?

Hehehehe - SaaaaWEEEET ! ! - paint code QM1 is Nissan's "Cloud white" yeah? That's ace though, I took it for a final drive today and slapped some pineapples down on it after running its numbers at VicRoads. As soon as my loan is approved it's officially my baby. Hurrah! :hearts: :hearts: :hearts:

I'm about to put a deposit down on a Skyline, and I understand you can look up VIN's on a parts catalogue? It's an R33 GTS-T Chassis VIN number, can you check it out for me? The dude says it's a 1995 build Series 2, with twin airbags but no ABS. . . I just wanna make sure it's genuine. it's ECR33101362 Engine No. RB25146240A Thanks guys. (PM or post, all good) -It's got usual mods: HKS coilovers, Apexi N1 catback xsorszt, GTR rear wing, Pod filter, 17x8, 17x9" wheels, - Sweet eh?

Hmm, you'd think there'd be a brand or something on it. It had no writing at all on it, and looked very factory, the way it was installed, wired etc. On a side note - can anyone fault this deal: white december 95 Series 2 GTS-T HKS adjustable coil-overs simple, plain aftermarket rims (255s on the rear) 4" N-1 exhaust (cat back) cone-type Intake pod GTR copy rear wing clean, straight TIGHT feeling 5-speed 11 months rego 82,000km $20,000

Yes, I've searched the forums, and can't find an explaination, so: I've looked at a few Series 2 R33 skylines today (GTS-Ts), and noticed in the boot that all have one Grey box slung underneath the parcel shelf, about the size of a CD-head unit. I'm assuming this is the HICAS computer? BUT: One, a '97 model, had a second smaller box slung beneath it, about the size of a ciggy pack. WHAT THE ! ? ! ? ! ? !

We used to use "Lubrasol" in diffs at work. stops chattering, binding (which I think U have), and quietens them down some. Engineers have banned it though, coz they want to see how long the diffs last in their "natural form."

Hi y'all - I B A Noob to this forum so be gentle! Has anyone driven the standard LSD and the Active LSD? Is it worth hunting around for a car with the Active Diff ? (Currently scouring Melbourne for the "right" R33 GTS-T). It sounds VERY much like a Power-FC problem to me. Do you have the manual for it? perhaps you could phone a couple of jap-tuning specialists and ask the hard questions. Computers in cars tend to get narky when they're not fed the signal they're expecting, and it doesn't take much to upset the apple cart ! ! :looney:

How does the Active LSD drive? Does it hook-up pretty much like a regular viscous LSD?