jvs007

been looking around for some replacement shocks for my r34 4door n/a, tried search and stuff but im after specific bolt on replacement with brand, price and most important where to get it. dont want stiff and performance, im chasing for comfort and ride quality some one must have changed these parts and know about it.....

yep, spot on buddy ! tranny goes into limp mode which is lock in 3rd gear. most common problem is shifting solenoids. can restart engine but when she will go again is anyones guess.... 2morro, next week, month etc. i got mine changed recently, shift solenoid A and B, pressure valve thingo, oil, service ,cleared on diagnostic etc. $680. heard ppl get it done it cheaper and more. access is from the bottom, no need to pull tranny out.

hey buddy, havnt got em yet but hoping by end of this week. i'll let u kno.

anyone know wat this code means, straight from the diagnostic computer R34 gt non turbo. i gather its to do with ignition but coils or igniter or sumtin else? 'engine - p1320 IGN signal primary'

sorry i can see it now, first msg was a bit confusing...... i thought checking with the diagnostic computer did the same thing as checking for fault codes. isn't it ??? the mechanic checked with the diagnostic computer and gave results for the engine - p1320 IGN signal primary. the transmission was - shifting solenoid A. does that help ?

i had the check engine light come up on r34 GT, goes off occasionally but still there. other day the A/T light came on. did lots of searches and stuff and came up with this: saw auto tranny speciallist, put on diagnostic computa and told me the shift solenoid A reporting faulty. this confirmed wat the search results said.....gone into limp mode 3rd gear. restarted engine and fault gone, drives normal. catch is the fault can come back anytime. Got told $680 to change solenoid A and B and some other pressure thingo (apparently all comes in a kit), service gearbox and clear error and about 1 days work. While he had diagnostic out, he checked the engine, reported ignition problem. which is wat i got from search results.... coils failing. question is how do i know which coil and where to buy it??? any opinions, comments and experiences ???

got a couple of suggestions, ages ago this problem came on a thread. will try and remember... here goes... the earthing for the fuel pump is floating earth controlled by computer. pedal down, proper earth - full voltage, pedal untouched half earth- half voltage to fuel pump, thats why ppl sumtimes blip the throttle on start up. Sumthing along those lines anyway. ppl have suggest to run relay and proper 12v or (13.8v) str8 from battery to pump and by pass the ccomputer. next, theres the idler assembly on the intake manifold- firewall side, cud try carbi cleaner, also theres the aac (not sure if the same thing) which may need cleaning. do sum search and go through tutorials, there was a big thing a while ago.

hey ppl, i finally found sumtin! www.meggala.com lots of info, this is from there : Head torque settings These are the specs I used on my own last rebuild as supplied by Hytech engines Head is torqued down in 5 stages. 1. 22ftlbs 2. 72ftlbs 3. slacken off 4. 22ftlbs 5. 75ftlbs or 90o very similar to bnr#@'s attachment, wat u guyz reckon ??

thanx dude but i think from wat i've been searching, the gtr are a little bit tighter than rb20, not 100% sure though. hopefully sum1 knows the link to the manuals.

hey ppl, desperately looking for the torque settings for rb20det head OR the work shop manuals. trying search, found a link back in 2005, its dead now sum1 must know a link that works pleeeeeze i'll keep looking in the mean time jay

all parts are genuine nissan items

hey ppl, got timing belt, water pump, idler pulley, tensioner and cam seals changed on my r32 gtst, mechanic put it all in, test drive went good, on the way back heard a 'crack' type noise and then engine started coughin etc. pulled it apart found belt 1 tooth out.... how does this happen ??? i trust the guy enough when he says he checked everything, has this happen to anyone before result is loss of compression on piston 2 and 6, head comes off, finds out 2 inlet valves on 2 and 6 bent ! doh !! thanx in advance ppl

i will check on the car and get back to ya.....

to suit r34 rb25 neo non turbo jus want sum input on wat spark plugs r running in ur ride, copper/irridium, gaps, brand, part numbers, prices. have dun search and came up with the following numbers, but no comments on wat examples work better then another.... PFRSG-11 guessin its copper, 11mm gap, brand unknown BKRSEIX-11 guessin its iridium, 11mm gap, brand unknown trying to decide between new copper plugs over short intervals or irdiums for long term and brands etc etc. thanx

thats one of the things i'd like to find out about also, prolonged driving with switch on, also is there any sort of speed limit u have to follow with it on. turn ur ignition to reds and u shud see 'snow' light up in the right hand side cluster of warning lights (above engine temp gauge), regardless of the actual switch position. maybe ur globe is buggered behind there.

from what i know non turbo came out with snow mode and turbo has TCS. dont think auto or manual made a difference. snow mode turned on only works on take off, in 2nd or 3rd (not sure which one) like said above to prevent wheel spin. U shud have a 'snow' light on the dash panel. TCS monitors a bunch of inputs and works continuously. shud have 'TCS' light when turned on and 'slip' light when slip is detected and starts working. i dont think snow mode wud actually change gear ratios cauz thats like a teeth on gears. but it does sumhow manage to bog the engine down so power is cut a great deal. correct me if im wrong, im a new onwer of a r34 so im also finding out alot of new things on the car. thanx

i've been using rhino ra for while now..5years, no problems, had the rhino gt in previous car, lil problem...the brain was in the siren module which died in bout 3 years. the ra has a seperate brain unit which is good. the ra also complies with insurance companies. another thing u mite not know about is theres a new model to ra called 'rav2' (version 2 obviously). very similar features, jus put that in wifes r34. all new features are good, the only feature they dropped compared to the old model which bothered me was option of instant 2second arming. rav2 has 20 second delay. also price seems a bit high considering u can pick up the rav2 from about $140 to $200 depending on where u get and who know ie. if u know a trademans in the field...trade price !

mmmm interesting replies, makes sense though...i think so to sum it up, snow mode already assumes ur gonna break traction therefore always uses higher gears to get drive AND traction control is always monitoring levels of grip and adjusts accodingly. Howz that sound??? i suppose snow mode wud help a little bit in the wet cauz its in taller gear and harder to wheel spin but obviously traction control is the ducks guts in the wet.... im gonna try this out and see what results i get in the car...

so does that mean snow and traction control is only active during take off's. what about normal driving speeds? what if u take a corner in the wet and the tail steps out, will both/either system try and correct traction i know i can try all this out but wanna see other ppl experiences.

got r34 auto sedan, its non turbo. theres a snow switch jus near the steering column can sum1 tell me what this is as to compared with 'traction control'. on ignition i dont have 'tcs' or 'slip' or any thing like that light up. only thing ive got is 'snow'. what exactly does this do and is it same as traction control. checkd fuse aswell and there is no traction control fuse. any1 out there know about this ?? thanx

sorry to take ur time but info on VIN6U90000ER34021493 would be much appreciated. thanx jay

well, its almost d-day, been looking at 4door NA R34 and may have found 1 6/99 model r34 gt, silvery/light gray colour, usual features, 62K, 11mths rego asking 15K. pretty sure its series 1 checkd for most obvious and usual things as far as wear and tear to reflect mileage. all round pretty good and straight. unfornatelly no aero kit. gone through search for lots of info. bad points...no cd player(stock cassete deck) mite be a good thing its got jap style snow tyres..very noisy, easy to change no keyless entry, only have 1 key, will be puting alarm have looked at plenty, from $14000 to $18000, but some are ok, not so ok and crap condition (im very fussy) questions....do they all have traction control and LSD? are all the climate control section the same? have seen sum with white faced dash, what model is it? cant believe i mite get a 34, it just fits in the garage, will go nicely next to the r32 !!! opinions ???

wanting to change my front swaybar bushes(mounting bushes), got them off to discover the bar is 28mm diam. ever1 has 27mm largest, chekd whiteline,red ranger, super pro, even went to advan, no one has seen this size or knows where to get 1. the mounting bracket is also slightly different ie. has no rib style form on the outer surface of the bush to locate on the bracket. any ideas ??? please hepl ?!?

hey has any1 had problems with their door not latching and closing properly. before i cud give a gentle push on the door and it wud close but now i have to slam it hard to close, if i dont it just half latches on. its getting worse and worse ie. i have start shutting it really hard now. im think maybe a rod/arm/spring or sumtin is goin bust. i tried good old wd40 but didnt help. Another thing i notice is the anchor on the car has a plastic/rubber cover over kinda like tubing that has worn off...cud this b it? i realise its gettin old but still, there has to be sum1 out there this has happened to...... thanx jay

does it do it every single time, or sumtimes yes sumtimes no ??? maybe u gotta bleed the clutch, air cud be in your lines. U checkd the reserve,, mite be low. if reserve ok, next time try givin it a lil rev b4 u slot in gear, if it feels it goes in better ur sync mite be goin bad.