BH_SLO32

Calipers and cluster sold pending payment

SOLD Pending payment

PM sent

I have the brake master cylinder but the front cut had ABS. The guards/shields from behind the front brakes are available, GC $30 Thanks

PS pump SOLD

No sorry. Didn't get the console as part of the front cut. Auxiliary electric fan GC SOLD

No, but I can throw that in for another $30

Sounds like someone has accidentally disconnected the fuel pump dropping resistor. It sits behind the left rear quarter panel (where the antenna is located). Seen it before. The dropping resistor is a silver rectangular item with a 2 pin plug. Let us know how you go. Cheers

Definitely the best option. At least this way you will get everything you need. It is the small things like brake booster vacuum line and the throttle cable (required if it is a series 1 Rb25) that can be overlooked with this conversion. If you buy a motor only you need to make sure they give you the harness running to the starter motor as it incorporates the wiring for the knock sensors and air regulator. If you want the standard RB25 loom modified to make it "plug'n'play" give me a yell. Cheers

It can be done but don't forget to cost a tune if you do use the RB20 computer. I always recommend modifying the RB25 loom to suit the application and that way you can use a power fc or similar designed for an RB25 and potentially retain the VCT and boost solenoid control if required. Cheers

This thought had crossed my mind as well. I just inherited a series 2 TRX from my sister and was thinking initially of putting in the RB20 that came out of my sisters R32 when I completed the RB25 conversion recently but thought I'd probably prefer the RB25. My intention was to purchase a front cut and use the complete dash (dash surround, instrument cluster, trim pieces etc). This would also allow you to use alot of the wiring from the front cut. Great idea. If you need someone to wire up the loom to suit I would be only too happy to assist. There are a number of suspension and brake upgrades you can use which will be sufficient for the increased weight. I am sure you are aware of the bluebird site but just in case www.910bluebird.com. It has alot of the technical articles you will need re brake and suspension upgrades. I think legally you should be able to do this but I suspect it will the largest capacity turbo motor you can use - you should probably check. Also note that the Pintara or skyline wagon fuel tank will bolt in place. But must be a wagon. As they have a surge tank and high pressure fuel pump built in, it will save on the external surge tank option if you wish to keep a factory look. Cheers

AC compressor SOLD 1 Alternator SOLD (2 others available)

I recently purchased a LOW KM R33 series 1 manual RB25DET front cut for an R32 engine conversion and have remaining parts from the front cut available for purchase. If a part you want is not listed please ask. Location: Brisbane Southside (will post interstate or overseas) Contact: PM or 0404002142 Parts list includes the following: • AC compressor GC $70 • Power Steering Pump GC $80 • Power Steering Rack GC $200 • AC condenser GC $80 • Brake Booster GC $30 • Manual Instrument Cluster GC $100 • Front Disc rotors (little wear) GC $100 • Front Brake Calipers GC $130 • Standard front shocks (2 off) GC $100 • Auxiliary electric fan GC $60 • Standard Steering Wheel GC $50 • Alternator GC $80 • Starter Motor GC $80 Please note prices do not include postage. Send me your postcode and I can provide an approx price for postage.

From memory the wiring is almost identical except that the RB25DE loom doesn't have pin 104 (FPCM activation) and boost solenoid wiring. The non turbo R32's and R33's don't use the FPCM and dropping resistor in the fuel pump control circuit rather the fuel pump is directly earthed hence the lack of pin104. Cheers

R32 or R33? What motor is coming out and what is going back in?

Correct

Thanks Mat!

I agree and have said the same thing but he won't listen. If you struggle with the basics I REALLY think it is time to pay an auto-electrican.

Sounds like you have blown the main 75A fuse in the engine bay (near the battery). These are $15 from Autobahn. Not sure what these STRI gauges you are talking about but it sounds to me like you have a short circuit in your wiring. I am a little surprised the gauges power supply doesn't come with its own inline fuse? I would highly recommend installing a fuse in the power supply. Make sure you are using a good earth and again I always recommend running the earth wire directly to ground. Don't try and find a nearby black wire which appears to be an earth wire for something else. Go directly to earth. Hope this helps. Cheers Ben

Normally open. Not sure about the amperage but from memory the Ignition coil relay receives it feed from a 20A supply and probably similiar for the ECCS. Confirm by referencing the wiring diagram. I think a 20A would be more than adequate. See if you can grab a couple of original relays from a wrecker. Cheers

Thanks Daniel, it is good to hear it all went well. I only just finished an RB25 conversion in my sisters car last weekend. Power FC goes in this weekend and she should have a grin from ear to ear!

The R33 Rb25 loom is wired quite differently to the R32 RB20 loom. The main differences include the location of the main power feeds for things like injectors, IGN coil rely, ECCS relay etc. I have prepared a BASIC guide on wiring the main power feeds previously (search my user name) but it is also important to ensure you connect the relevant ECU wires to get it started (eg. fuel pump relay Pin 18, START signal pin 43 etc). The main power feeds for the RB20 are supplied via the wires connected to the 8 pin plug near the power steering reservoir whereas the RB25 obtains the main power feeds from the plug near the ECU (ie the plug the connects to the body loom in the passenger footwell). Whenever I wire up a loom for someone, I always utilise the original RB20 plugs that mate with the main body loom (ie 3 plugs at passenger footwell and plug near the power steering reservoir) and integrate them into the RB25 loom making it essentially a plug'n'play loom. You will also need to ensure you remove the water temp sensor for the climate control (on firewall at back of inlet cam cover) and the fuel pump dropping resistor wires (silver rect plug near P/S reservoir - valid if car is originally turbo and you haven't directly earthed the fuel pump) and integrate them into your RB25 loom. I also always use the original wiper plug and wires as the RB25 has a different control of the wiper motor. If it seems too hard I offer SAU members a plug'n'play loom for $350 + postage. If you supply me both the RB25 and RB20 looms I will produce a plug'n'play loom which literally plugs straight back in and away you go. I wire up everything including tacho, A/C, VCT, boost solenoid, FICD (I add a relay to switch it on when the AC is swithed on), O2 heater, Air regulator etc. Turn around is 1 week or better. Cheers, Ben RB25_into_R32_Wiring_Guide.doc

SOLD

Bump

I have for sale a polished intake manifold that was purchased as part of an RB30DET engine but never used by myself. The bottom runners are stock R33 RB25 and the plenum is custom with individual trumpets for each cylinder (refer photos). The manifold has been modified to suit top feed injectors. I understand that it is designed to accommodate an XF throttle body. Good Condition $230 + postage.