BH_SLO32

Have you got the 260rs loom and presumably the factory r34 non turbo loom from the car?

The R32 & R33 skylines have the refrig pressure switch in series with the power supply to pin9 on the Ecu. If you press the AC button the the Ecu earths this pin and the ac compressor switches on. If the refrig pressure is low it will open circuit this power supply to the Ecu and prevent the ac compressor from switching on and damaging the compressor. in the R34’s the refrigerant pressure switch is wired independently of the power supply to pin 14 (equivalent of pin 9 on R33) the controls the ac compressor operation. The refrigerant pressure switch provides a signal to the ecu at pin57 to tell it the refrigerant pressure is ok. Without a signal the ecu won’t Switch the ac compressor on. The plugnplay looms I have done in the past for this swap have included a small power feed to pin 57 to make the ecu think the refrigerant pressure is ok. I use the 5v power from pin48 through a couple of 2.2kohm resistors to drop the voltage to approx 2.6v. The alternative to this is to install a switch in the cabin that simple earths the old pin9 to manually switch the ac compressor on.

No sorry

The following items are no longer available 1 x RB25 alternator (1 left) RB25 series 2 AFM

If interested feel free to contact me on 0404002142.

R32/33 free stuff, give away, pick up only Hi Guys, I am de-clutering the house and have some left over parts from my old R32 Gtst with RB25/30 which are available FREE but is pickup only from Wishart 4122. Clutch fan 2 x RB25 alternators (90A) starter motor RB25 series 2 AFM hydraulic lifters (stored in oil) harmonic balancer R32 GTST rear diff I do have several boxes of misc crap like radiator hoses, intercooler hard piping, silicon hoses, vacuum hoses etc but I will take these to the dump probably Sunday (18th Dec). Location is Wishart 4122.

SOLD

Price drop $12,900

Make: R32 GTST Model:93 Milage:170,000km Transmission:RB25DET 5 speed Colour:black Location:Brisbane Complied?Yes RWC supplied?Supplied on sale Currently registered?End of Feb 15 Price:$14,800 Contact: PM or mobile 0404002142 Comments / Modifications: Bought the car stock in March 2005 with 140,000km. After almost 10 years of ownership it is time to let it go as I just dont drive it much these days. With a growing family now priorities have changed and it is time for someone else to enjoy the car. Has only done 30,000km in the last 10 years. Pros ENGINE Built RB30DET Weisco forged pistons, shot-peened stock rods ARP rod bolts and head studs Cometic MLS 1.3mm head gasket (recently upgraded) RB25DET head Stock RB25 camshafts Adjustable Exhaust cam gear RB25DET Gearbox 6Boost high mount exhaust manifold GT35R with 1.06 Ex Housing Turbosmart 50mm Progate External Wastegate (plumbed back into exhaust) Plumb back BOV Greddy Intake Plenum Q45 Throttle body Walbro fuel pump 555cc Nismo injectors NPC button clutch Haltech E11v2 450rwhp on 20psi. SUSPENSION & BRAKES SAU Group Buy Suspension kit: Bilstein Shocks Whiteline springs Whiteline Camber and caster kits Whiteline front and rear sway bars R32 GTR front brakes Standard rear brakes OTHER JVC touch screen head unit 12in subwoofer Battery relocated to boot (Optima Dry cell battery) 18 x 8 Koyo wheels Brand new tyres eBoost 2 EBC FMIC 3in Exhaust Momo Steering wheel Dual Thermo Fans Central locking Mongoose M80G Alarm (installed last year) Cons The body is not perfect. It has the several dents and scratches consistent for its age. The front bar, bonnet, roof and boot lid were recently resprayed.

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As Nizmo Man stated, check your fuses. In particular I would look at the main fuses in the fuse block near the battery. It sounds like you may have blown the main 75A fuse.

I have the following R33 RB25 parts for sale : Cam covers GC ($80) Timing belt cover GC ($30) Valley cover has a few scratches but otherwise GC ($30) Factory RB25 camshafts inlet and exhaust GC ($50 each or both $90) R33 series 2 RB25 Airflow meter (AFM) GC ($50) Location: Brisbane Southside (will post interstate or overseas) Contact: PM or 0404002142 Please note prices do not include postage. Send me your postcode and I can provide an approx price for postage.

RB25 S2 into R32 Wiring Guide.xlsxOk guys, I am frequently asked about the wiring for the R33 S2 conversion so I have finally put together a BASIC wiring guide that should help the average DIY to get the engine running. Please note the guide does not address the tacho, speedo, climate control, AC, CONSULT etc. I HIGHLY recommend you do the wiring with both looms on a table where you can strip them back and remove the necessary wires and plugs from the R32 loom and integrate them into the R33 loom. I say this because the main power feeds to both looms come from completely different areas of the car (ie R33 from cabin, the R32 from the engine bay). I have prepared multile dozens of plug'n'play looms now and to do it properly it still takes me 10-12hrs. Anyway, happy soldering and I trust this helps.

I have a pair, $40+ postage.

It sounds like the painters have disconnected the dropping resistor when accessing the aerial. With it disconnected the FPCM will allow the pump to run for a short period before the ECU switches it off and if the dropping resistor is not connected the pump is open circuited. Cheers

Yes you are right, my bad, I just checked my wiring diagrams. Thanks for the correction

I found it easier to put the R33 manifold on the R34 engine. This will enable you to retain factory R33 injectors, throttle body/TPS and intake air piping. The thermostat housing on the R34 is smaller than the R33 so again I found it easier to swap the housing to retain the factory R33 water hoses. You are correct with the following: Coil pack loom plugs straight in to S2 R33 loom Chop VCT solenoid plug off Neo loom to wire into S2 R33 loom since they're different CAS power and earth wires only need to be swapped. Check with the wiring diagrams. Hope this helps.

Spot on. It is the other 8 pin plug coupled to the main 8 pin engine loom plug on the front side of the passenger strut tower. You will find one of the wires is the power feed to the injectors and the other 6 are the return from the ballast resistor. I cut the plug off the ballast resistor and add a mating plug to allow it to plug into the engine loom. This means you can mount the ballast resistor somewhere behind the passenger headlight in area which should get some air flow.

The easiest solution is to keep your R33 S1 engine harness but buy an S2 coil pack harness and add a mating plug the S1 loom to suit the S2 coil pack harness. I had to do this when I replaced the R33 S1 motor in my dads R32 with an R34 motor. It is quite straight forward if you have the wiring diagrams.

I frequently get asked if I still do conversion looms for RB motors in R32's and the simple answer is yes. I don't get as much free time these days but I still enjoy doing it when the opportunity arises. Please contact me via PM if this is of interest to you. Ben

As you said, it sounds like the Apexi computer has a fault with pin 7. I am not sure of your modifications but if the engine is close to standard I would try a stock R33 ECU. If this is not an option you could try getting the Apexi ECU repaired.

Can you confirm which loom you are using, R33 or stagea?

The power supply comes FROM the dash and ECU simply earths the supply. If you unplug the ECU and turn the ignition on you should see about 5V (from memory) at pin 7 loom side obviously. On the RB20 loom the tacho wire is red with yellow trace/stripe. Not sure if it changes colour though at the loom plug in the passenger footwell. Cheers

ECU pin 7. It is a yellow wire with blue stripe/trace if it is an R33 RB25 loom.