BH_SLO32

Markimak, Depends on the car but if you are talking an RB25 (series 1 or 2) conversion in an S13 or 14 silvia or 180 then will be about $350 for the loom and if you wish to retain the S13,14 or 180 tacho you will need a digital corrector which I buy from Jaycar for about $50 or $60 (from memory). I bought one sometime ago and played around with it in my R32. Where abouts on the southside are you? I'm at springwood. Cheers

Cheers guys much appreciated!

Hi guys, I have read and heard peoples various tales about the fittment of an R32 GTR front bar to a R32 GTST. I was wondering if someone can confirm or deny the possibility. My gut feel is it wont fit (without modifications) due to the GTR having wider guards. Thanks in advance for your replies. Oh....off the topic, just thought I'd say that I finished my RB30DET conversion in my R32 GTST last weekend. It is a built motor with the same GT35R I had on the old RB25. Trying to organise a time with my cousin (Phil Laird) to get it tuned. Will let you know how it goes! Thanks again Ben

I can confirm that the RB25 item it supplied with a slotted hole for the top 6mm bolt. The RB20 and RB30 items use the same bolt pattern. I have replaced pumps on RB20s, Rb25s and Rb30s. Cheers

27mm Cheers

Can help with the wiring. I have done a few now. Excellent conversion, I even did one for my fathers R32 at the start of this year. He loves it! I have personally done 2 now and have done them over a weekend with a hand from my bro-in-laws. Cheers

Have you confirmed power is being supplied to the coils? Power is feed via the ignition coil relay (one of the green relays near the ECU) to the coil packs. Disconnect one of the coil packs and check for a 12V feed when the key is switched to the "on" position. If no feed is present you will need to check the source of the supply. The relay is feed power from the thick white wire with purple stripe. You can check the power feed easily at the connector near the power steering reservoir. Turn the key to the "on" position and you should have 12V at this wire. While you are at it, check for 12V at the white wire with black stripe (feeds ECCS relay which then feeds power to CAS, MAF etc). Once you have done this let us know how you go. Cheers

I have a good one I just pulled out of my car. I had to replace it with an R33 item to give me clearance for the Greddy plenum (RB30DET). $75 + postage Cheers Ben

From memory it was a 15 or 20A fuse that blew in my bro-in-laws car. Looks very familiar. I noticed you have a 10A and 20A in the spare fuse holders. You may be able to try a 10A if it is a 15A that blew. At least to get you going until you get the correct one. Cheers

Check the fuses under the dash. Took me ages to diagnose a similar problem on my brother-in-laws 32 and eventually found that a fuse was blown. Let us know how you go. Cheers, Ben

No, usually when the O2 sensor plays up it results in an erratic idle (hunting) but stabilises once the O2 sensor is disconnected (presumably no longer in closed loop mode). Have you inspected the plugs and are they all the same (presumably very black)? Usually fouled plugs will eventually clear themselves especially after a long run (eg down the highway).

Refer response in the same thread in "General Maintenance" Cheers

If you are using a series 1 RB25 loom the injector power supply is via a dedicated wire that terminates at a plug near the power steering reservoir (in the engine bay). There are 6 wires (from memory) and the one you are after is the grey wire. Grab a multimeter and check continuity with one of the injector plugs as this grey wire feeds 12v to each injector. If you have a series 2 loom the power feed comes from the main in-cabin plug near the ECU. Hope this helps. Cheers

Have you tried disconnecting the O2 sensor and seeing if the idle stabilises? My initial thought was fouled plugs but you mentioned they have been replaced. Cheers

Ok, lets start eliminating a few things. Firstly, lets check to see if you have power to the computer, ECCS relay, fuel injectors and ignition coil relay. These power supplies can be checked easily by simply using a multimeter and probing the wires at the connector near the power steering reservoir. The big white wire with black stripe feeds battery voltage directly to the injectors and pin 58 on the ECU and also feeds power to the ECCS relay. Note that with the battery connected you should constantly have 12V at this wire. Assuming this is ok you'll need to check the big white wire with purple stripe for battery voltage as well. This is a feed to the ignition coil relay. Check this first and then advise findings. These items will at least tell us whether some of the main power feeds are present. Let us know how you go and we can then determine the next step. With all this, I am assuming you have no fuel pump operation. If the fuel pump is working it would imply the ECU is probably getting at least power to pin 58. Cheer, Ben

When you turn the key to the "start" position, it provides 12V to the starter motor solenoid which in turn allows the starter to operate. The wire is connected to the started solenoid through a spade connector. Usually the problem you are experiencing can be attributed to a loose connection ie. the spade connector is loosely connected to the solenoid. Next time you have a problem starting make sure the connector is pushed on completely. If this doesn't fix your problem I would suggest examing the starter wire which runs from the battery to the starter (big wire usually black with yellow stripe). Examine the connections at the battery and the starter and ensure the connection is good. If you are handy with a multimeter, check the resistance in the wire. Given the problem is intermittent, I would place my money on a bad connection with the starter solenoid (the spade connection). Let us know how you go. Cheers, Ben

Hmmm.....sounds like limp home mode for a faulty AFM, won't let you rev past 2500rpm. My experience was exactly the same, happened fairly infrequently......at first. I killed mine thanks to the use of some normal silcon for a seal between the the AFM and the airfilter. The silcon was not "sensor safe". I know now better! Cheers

A common problem with the 33's is a shorting that occurs at the base of the indicator stalk due to wear. I am assuming you can hear the flasher unit clicking but probably don't actually have the indicators flashing? There are some sliding contacts at the base of the indicator stalk that wear and eventually the small amount of plastic separating the contact strips melts and a small shortcircuit results. Eventually you will see smoke from the buring plastic emitted from the base of the indicator stalk. Do a search because I directed someone else to this problem in 2005 and he took pictures of the repair process. I personally can't recall how I solved the problem and can only recall cleaning the contacts ( I did a quick fix on the side of the road). Hope this helps. Cheers

Hmmm....I have done a number of these now and I'm pretty sure you haven't taken the original boss kit out yet. The item shown in the second photo showing the 3 contacts is part of the original boss kit. This needs to be removed. Once the boss kit is on, there should be a 12V supply on the circular copper disc. This will feed power to a wire that is integral with the boss kit and the wire should have a spade connector. The spade connector should be joined to the back of the horn button and there should be another tab on the back of the horn button (from memory) that will require another wire to be connected to it which is then earthed. It has been a while since I last did one.... Hope this helps.

Is the car an auto? If it is check your radiator overflow bottle does not have oil sitting on the top. The autos pass their gearbox oil through the bottom tank of the radiator for cooling. If a leak forms inside the tank you will get oil in your water which is likely to spill out into your overflow bottle. Be very afraid!

Have you got the original RB25DE loom? I am assuming it will be the same as the R32 RB25DE and can confirm if you take some photos of the plugs near the ECU, the ones that plug into the car loom at the passenger footwell. Shouldn't take too much to sort out. Cheers, Ben

The main plug near the power steering reservoir has the main power feeds to the ECU and engine components. The white wire with a black stripe provides power to the injectors direct and also provides power to the ECCS relay and direct to ECU pin 58 (battery power supply). With the engine not running you should have battery voltage at this wire. If you don't you need to check the fusable links under the cover of the engine bay fuse holder. It will be a 25A fuse (should be one of the square units with clear cover and probably brown in colour). I think it is the one closest to the spade fuses. Hope this helps. Cheers,

You'll need to provide more information. What in particular are you looking for eg. ECCS relay, Ingnition Coil relay?

RB20DET MAF SOLD

RB20DET MAF SOLD