BH_SLO32

27mm

The throttle body linkage is different. The series 1 has a longer throttle cable. You may find you don't have enough adjustment with the series 1 cable to take out the slack. Probably easier to swap the thottle body over. Cheers

I'd suggest an aftermarket Davies Craig. A 14" will set you back about $170 from memory. Just make sure you buy it from an car A/C mechanic not a parts store (eg. Autobahn) otherwise you will fork out probably twice that. Cheers

Jayson, The factory fan relay has power when the key is in the "ON" position. You can simply bridge the terminals for the factory temp switch to activate the factory fan. There is a connector on the drivers side of the radiator which you could unplug and bridge the 2 wires. If you want to activate additional fans you can use these wires to trigger another relay which is dedicated to the other fans. Hope this helps. Cheers

Nothing noticable. The modulator operates in parallel with a resistor block downstream of the fuel pump. When the engine is cold the ECU activates the modulator which allows a greater current draw through the fuel pump and hence increase pump performance. Once warm it switches off directing all current through the resistor block only. In laymans terms it allows greater fuel pump performance when the engine is cold (engine usually requires more fuel). Incidentally, if you were to disconnect the resistor block (silver rectangular block with 2 wires located in the jack compartment in the boot of the R33s) you will find the engine will stall within about 30s after starting a cold engine as the fuel pump will only run when the modulator is activated. Hope that explains things. Cheers

Ross, The temp switch for the climate control is not related to your thermo fan operation as you stated. In the past when I have installed thermo fans I replace the temp switch in the radiator with a unit that switches on at about 85 degs and turns off at 83 degs. I now also install an incabin switch just in case the temp switch fails while driving (has happened with my dads R32). I am just about to experiment with a jaycar temp switch with adjustable hysterisis (adjustable "on" and "off" temp) for about $30. I will be testing it on my dads R32 which has dual 12" thermos which I have wired up with the factory thermo fan. Currently he is having issues with the temp switch (again) so this jaycar kit hopefully will offer better reliability. At $30 I don't have much to lose. Cheers

Sorry, I went through all my receipts but couldn't find it. I bought it from Import Bitz (they advertise in zoom). It is a 255l/h walbro which I was led to believe came as a package to suit an R32 skyline although I am not so sure anymore. You can buy them now for about $145 + postage. Have a talk with Kudo Motorsport (one of the traders on SAU) as they sell them. Cheers

Yep, photos attached. Sorry I didn't really get a shot of the temp switch in the car but I took a photo of a spare one I had lying around. Cheers

Ross, The auxiliary fan is not operated by the A/C system but simply the temperature switch in the bottom of the radiator. It will only kick in once the water temp gets to about 96 degs from memory. Also the water temp sensor you are talking about is not the engine temp sensor but the sensor at the back of the inlet cam cover connected to a coupling wrapped around the heater tube connected to the heater hose. It has a 2 pin connector. Cheers

Check the indicator stalk in particular where it plugs into the column. The R33s seem to be notorious for shorting the internal sliding contacts resulting in melting plastic (you will eventually see smoke) and hear the flasher ticking fast but with no actual flashing. Good place to start. Hope this helps

My last R32 I installed a bosch 044 but it required a few mods to fit and although it flows well it is noisy and doesn't hold system pressure when the engine is switched off. This means it takes longer to prime next time you go to start the car. My current R32 has a walbro pump and I love it. Much cheaper and fits in factory position with minimal mods. It also holds the system pressure better than stock. My car has an RB25 with GT35R on the side making 220rwkw with no problems. I have some photos of the install. Hope this helps

Who did the wiring? It is important to connect a number of main power feeds if the ol' girl is going to fire. Without going into too much detail you at least need the following: 1. Power to injectors, ECCS relay & Pin 58 (battery power - constant). This is supplied by the white wire with the black stripe in the engine bay plug of the RB20 loom. 2. Power to the Ign Coil relay when the key is in the "IGN" position. This is supplied by the white wire with the purple stripe in the engine bay plug of the RB20 loom. 3. Power to pin 45 when the key is in the "IGN" position. This is supplied by the black wire with the red stripe in the engine bay plug of the RB20 loom. 4. Power to pin 43 when the key is turned to the "start" position. This is one of the wires in the in-cabin plug. 5. Pin 18 is the trigger wire for the fuel pump relay. This should be enough to get you started. I would also suggest you connect power to the air regulator and O2 sensor heater element. The air regulator operates independently of the ECU and bypasses air via the throttle body when the engine is cold. It closes when the engine gets some temperature into it. Hope this helps. Cheers

Just remember that the size of the sump plug is measured by the shank diameter NOT the socket that goes on the head. All the RB sump plugs I have ever worked on have all required a 14mm socket implying that the actual plug is smaller than this ie 12mm (just confirmed with an RB30 sump plug). Hope this helps

Yes, I recently replaced the clutch fan on my RB30 (R31 skyline) with one of a few spare Rb20 and Rb25 fans in my shed. If you want one I can sell you one for $30 + postage. I should have a good one in the shed. Cheers

It will run richer than usual on idle (or when a vacuum is generated in manifold) and leaner than usual when running boost. The fuel pressure regulator is intended to maintain a set base fuel pressure relative to the pressure in the intake manifold (via the hose connection). The pressure in the manifold opens further or closes further the fuel pressure regulator depending if you have a vacuum or postive pressure (boost). The vacuum opens the regulator further resulting in a decrease in fuel rail pressure and boost closes the fuel pressure regulator more resulting in an increase in fuel rail pressure. Hope this helps Cheers

I would suggest checking your engine mounts. If the rubber mount has separated from the metal plate it could be the culprit. Hope this helps

I would suggest first checking the spade connection on the starter solenoid. Probably a loose connection. Seen this plenty of times in the past. Cheers,

Just a quick correction, the water sensor is in fact attached to the heater hoses on the firewall behind the intake camshaft cover (a 2 pin connector). It has nothing to do with the ECU water sensor at the front of the motor. The power feed for the compressor passes through the pressure switch (consider it a fuse) before connecting to the compressor. The compressor operates off a relay which is triggered by earthing pin 9 on the ECU. The ECU controls the operation of the compressor so that when under load it can switch it off. Have you verified that pin 9 reads approx 12v with the A/C off and is earthing (dropping to 0V) when the A/C button is pressed? By doing this you will be able to isolate the problem to either the power supply to the compressor or the signal coming from the climate control (via pin 46 on the ECU). On a side note have you checked the in-cabin air temp sensor (adjacent to the ashtray). If this is unplugged (required when removing the surround trim), you will only get hot air (I guess the climate control assumes it is reading very cold). Hope this helps. Cheers

Yes

Yes the motor is in good running order. I can't do a true compression test as the motor is out of the car, however I can manually turn the motor over and get some compression readings. Cheers, Ben

PPL, I have the following parts for sale: 1. GFB blow-off valve with adapter to suit R32 GTS-T (refer photo but please note that cross-over pipe is not included). GC $150 2. Used bosch 044 (approx 58,000kms) GC $140 3. Chipped RB20DET computer (to suit standard injectors, bosch 044 fuel pump and modified garrett GT28R running 20psi) GC $350 Please note the above does not include postage. Cheers Ben

Rancher, I'm on the southside of Brisbane and you are more than welcome to try the spare CAS I have on my spares shelf. I also have a stock R33 fuel pump, a bosch 044 and I think a stock R32 pump. Cheer, Ben

$65 posted to Syndey. Cheers

I received a PM from someone yesterday but only just sent a reply. If he is not interested then they are all yours. Thanks for your interest. Ben

PPL, Last weekend I did an RB25DET conversion in my Fathers R32 skyline. I purchased an R33 series 1 auto front cut with 71,xxx kms on the clock and now would like to get rid of all parts surplus to my needs. I have the following R33 series 1 turbo parts for sale: 1. Auto G/Box(I managed to crush one of the wiring loom plugs) $100 or nearest offer 2. Instrument cluster $50 3. Front brake calipers $100 4. Front brake discs $100 5. Brake booster with master cylinder $80 6. Power steering rack $80 7. Power steering pump $70 8. A/C compressor $70 9. A/C thermo fan (1 mounting lug broken) $35 10. Air box $70 11. Steering Column $40 If there is anything else in the photos that you want please enquire. Other items: 1. Used Bosch 044 fuel pump $100 2. RB20DET motor minus turbo and loom. Has 166,xxx kms but still in excellent running condition. Has professionally painted cam covers, platinum plugs, coil packs, power transistor, fuel injectors, most sensors etc. $350 3. Chipped RB20DET computer (to suit modified GT28RR turbo with stock injectors) $150 4. Standard RB20DET computer $100 5. RB20 AFM (2 off) $80 6. Set of 6 RB20DET coilpacks $200 Please note that none of the prices includes freight costs. Cheers, Ben