BH_SLO32

Jack, The best I can do is provide a rough pinout prepared by the guys from Quick Fit Motorsport (ph. 9476 2877) about 6yrs ago. These guys were really helpful. Ignore my scratchings. Hope it helps. Cheers, Ben

Yeah, he bought it from Asian at Slacks Creek. I have found them to have a good range of stock. Cheers

The middle photo is the air temp sensor which relays the ambient temperature to the climate control unit. It displays the ambient temperature when you press the 'AMB' button on the climate control.

Recently replaced this same unit on my dad's R32. I believe the unit is referred to as Auto Timer Unit. Nissan quoted $120 brand new but my dad picked one up second hand for about $60. I was actually going to try and sus out all the components on the ciruit board in an effort to replace them with equivalents from DickSmith but I lost interest. Would probably cost under $10 to replace. Hope this helps. Cheers, Ben

ABLE INSTRUMENTS: ph 3801 1232. They are at Loganholme. These guys are pretty good. I even used them to shorten the speedo drive cable on my R32 when I installed the RB25 gearbox.

Do a diagnostic check but it sounds like a faulty airflow meter which is going into limp home mode preventing the engine to rev. Hope this helps. Cheers

I take my cars to the dump to get weighed. The dump adjacent to the Mt Cotton driver training centre has a weigh bridge and it didn't cost me a cent. My old R32 4 door passage weighed in at 1480kg, my old R32 weighed in at 1350kg and my 4 door 1990 Aust delivered base model R31 weighed in at 1350kg also. These weights are with less than 1/2 tank of fuel and exclude my weight. I would expect a standard R32 GTR to weigh in at about 1450 - 1500kg which is consistent with info I have read over the years. Keen to see what your car weighs so let us know how it goes. Cheers

Hmmm.....I suspected this is what you meant although I have never seen this scenario before (ie ignition is presumably taking place AFTER TDC). Assuming you do not have any adjustable cam gears a quick check of the position of the intake and exhaust cams will tell you straight away whether the cam timing is out. To do this remove the top cam gear cover and turn the engine over by hand until you reach TDC on the firing stroke. The bottom pulley TDC mark should obviously align with the mark on the bottom timing belt cover and the dimple on the front of the intake and exhaust cam gears should closely align with the white marks on the backing plate (at approximately 10 oclock and 2 oclock respectively). If this all checks out ok then at least you know the cam timing is not a problem and it may suggest that the base timing has somehow been adjusted electronically. I'm not sure if it is possible to modify this when the factory ECU is reprogrammed but is certainly possible with aftermarket ECUs. I would certainly suggest you try to get to the bottom of the timing issue as this is likely to affect the overall running of the motor and may explain the idle issue. I would also suggest checking the fuel pressure again to at least eliminate it from the equation. If it is a reprogrammed ECU you would hope it is a custom chip and not something 'generic' as you may have a chip suited for a specific setup which is not suited to your engine (eg big turbo, different injectors). Hope this helps. Cheers

Can you please clarify a couple of things, namely: 1. The Crank Angle Sensor (CAS) is currently rotated fully CLOCKWISE? This would imply that the timing should be fully RETARDED. You mentioned that it is set at almost 10 degs. Does this mean it has been difficult to reduce it from 20degs, say, to 10 degs? How did you check the timing? Incorrectly inspected and you will see greater advance than what is actually present eg. 25 degs measured incorrectly can actually be 15degs. This would explain why the CAS is fully retarded and why you think you are seeing very advanced timing. For a manual Rb20det it should be about 15 degs BTDC. Easiest way to check the timing correctly is to place the induction light pickup over the 3 plug wires on number 1 cylinder coil. 2. What is meant by "the dyno showed that it was very lean.. like 0.9 all the way through". Excuse my ignorance but are you saying the O2 sensor voltage was 0.9? 3. Since upgrading the fuel system have you rechecked the fuel pressure? Cheers,

I can confirm it has no input to the ECU and to the best of my knowledge is simply a temperature switch which activates the dash warning light when things get a little hot. I don't know what the fine in Canada is for gutting or removing a cat for a road registered vehicle but in Australia the fine is substantial ($10,000 for a company I believe) and therefore it would make most people think twice about gutting it or removing it! Hope this helps, Cheers

Jerry, You will need to use the series 1 coilpacks and power transistor. The series 2 coilpacks have the transistors built into the coilpacks. You simply need to install these with the associated harness that lies underneath the central coil cover. As mentioned previously, retaining the series 1 harness will require use of most of the series 1 sensors thanks to the different plugs used between the different series eg Crank angle sensor, TPS (?), airflow meter. In summary, the series 2 ECU will operate a series 1 motor so if you are unsure about a sensor I would suggest you use the series 1. As a little comfort the Apexi PFC for the series 1 and 2 R33 RB25s are the same. Don't forget you can use the series 1 ECU if so desired. Refer also my previous post re FICD control. Hope this helps. Cheers

Kaz, The RB20 BOV isn't leaking? They should hold plenty of boost before leaking but I have seen a stock RB25 unit that had obviously had its day and start leaking under stock boost. If venting to atmosphere and running an airflow meter it will cause the car to hesitate as described and overfuel resulting in fuel being burnt in the exhaust (ie the exhaust gets hot). You should be able to hear and feel the BOV leaking. Let us know how it goes. Hope this helps. Cheers

Andyn, As others have already pointed out the R32s use an airflow meter and not MAP. The MAP sensor on the firewall adjacent to the brake booster is used for the factory boost gauge and I assume this is what you are referring too? Cheers

Depends what you are looking for but Asian generally have a good stock. Cheers

There is a good chance that the spark plugs are now fouled due to the motor turning over for an extended period without firing (the fuel injectors would be adding fuel during cranking which hasn't been burnt). I would suggest if it doesn't improve after a good drive (eg 50km) that you look elsewhere. I would also suggest checking ECU diagnostics and I wouldn't be surprised if the Crank Angle Sensor (CAS) is the source of the original problem judging by your symptons. Hope this helps. Cheers

Just out of curiosity do you use Optimax? Given your fuel hoses had cracks I suspect this is the case as you would not be the first person! Cheers

The only difference I am aware of between the pinouts of the series 1 and 2 ECUs is apparently the series 1 ECU earths the Fast Idle Compensation Device (FICD) whereas the series 2 don't. Having said this I recently modified a series 1 loom for a member to suit his cefiro and I discovered that although his loom was a series 1 it did not earth the FICD through the ECU (pin 36). Incidentally he used my series 2 ECU briefly without any problems. For your info I modified a series 2 loom to suit the Rb25 conversion into my R32 so have had the opportunity to work on both series 1 and series 2 looms. The series 2 ECU will work with a series 1 loom you should just check if the series 1 loom has a wire at pin 36. If it does you simply need to cut this wire and earth it if you are going to use the series 2 ECU and thereby retain the use of the FICD. Is there any reason for wanting to use the series 2 ECU over the series 1 given you are thinking of using the series 1 loom? Hope this helps. Cheers

You will have to undo the instrument surround with the light switch and pulling it forward or out completely (easiest solution) you can then access the 3 screws that hold the switch in place. Once you remove the switch carefully open it with a screwdriver. There are 3 thin and long contacts (from memory) which pivot like at seesaw and make contact with some copper pads. You will need to remove the long contacts and with a nail file or similar carefully clean any carbon deposit on the contacts and copper pads. Reassembly and test before putting the switch back in place. The headlight main feed passes through the switch so any reasonable resistance across the contacts will result in intermittent operation of the headlights. Hope this helps. Cheers

Sounds like the actual dash switch needs to be pulled apart and the contacts cleaned, very common problem in the R32s. The contacts gradually wear and the contact resistance increases to the point where the lights will work intermittantly. Clean the contacts carefully and you should get some renewed life out of the switch. Cheers

Jerry, I would suggest the easiest option would be to use the Series 1 harness together with relevant series 1 sensors (eg AFM, CAS, TPS etc) otherwise you will have to rewire part of the series 2 loom to ensure power feeds etc are correct. As an example, the power feed for the injectors is sourced from different locations and this would need to be considered. Incidentally the series 2 R33 ECU will run a series 1 R33 motor via a series 1 loom. Hope this helps. Cheers,

Sarumatix, The wiring for the GTR and is slightly different to the GTSts in that the temperature switch is not directly earthed but connects to pin 6 on the ECU where it is then earthed. I assume the ECU earths it straight away but am not sure. I figure the ECU probably only turns off the thermos when accelerating as per the AC control. The operation of the factory thermo on the 32 GTSTs is completely independent of the AC operation. It simply aids the factory clutch fan when temps rise. Having said that the fan is likely to turn on when the AC is switched on thanks to the extra load of the compressor. Given you have a GTR motor in your GTSt is it possible the temperature switch earth wire has been connected to pin 6 on the GTR ECU (assuming you are running the GTR ECU)? Does your AC work with and without the thermos? It should. Cheers

Gents, One option attached as requested. I have shown a relay with dual switches to suit 2 thermos with individual plugs although there is no reason why you can't use a relay with a single switch provided the relay and associated wiring is rated for the current draw of the 2 thermos. The arrangement is such that thermos will be operated by the temperature switch in the bottom of the radiator although I do recommend installing an additional toggle switch in the car in case the temp switch ever fails. The arrangement of the existing thermo fan for the radiator is a reflection of the wiring found on R32 skylines so keep this mind when looking at the diagram. The fusable link (F/L) and relay for the factory thermo (referred to as radiator fan on diagram) can be found in the fuse/relay block near the battery for R32 skylines. EDIT: This arrangement works fine for the GTST but I cannot confirm for GTRs as the ECU earths the temperature switch under conditions I am not privy to this point in time. I also recommend purchasing another temperature switch from someone like Autobahn which will switch on at around 87 degs and switch off at around 83 degrees as an example. The standard temperature switch as Cubes pointed out, typically switches on over 90 degrees (97 on my R32). The temp switch I purchased for my Bro-in-law cost around $40 from memory. Remember, the thermostats on the RB motors typically open at around 76-77 degrees so you should retain some margin over this when selecting the operating range for the temperature switch. Hope this helps Cheers DualThermoWiringR32.pdf

Predator, I have a crossmember from an RB25 manual g/box. It is the same as the RB20 manual g/box (see photos). PM if interested. Cheers

The symptoms you describe point to the O2 sensor. Next time the idle drops disconnect the O2 sensor and see if the idle stabilises. Hope this helps. Cheers

You should be able to source them from wreckers (grab them from a front cut). Cheers