BH_SLO32

Craig from "Specialist Welders" has done the odd job for me from time to time and his work is very neat. 4 Hiley St Slacks Creek Ph. 3208 9988 Mob 0418 716 880

As a guide I have a 14", 10" and the factory AC fan operating to keep my R32 with RB25 cool. I have noticed that my temperature is slightly above the half way mark on hot days. The single 14" fan was insufficient. My previous car had 2x12" fans and the standard AC fan (from memory) and it seemed to cope ok. My bro-in-law is currently about to fit a 10" fan to his R32 as the recently installed 14" thermo and standard AC fan are not able to keep up with the demands of his motor on these hot days. With respect to the slow moving and low reading temp gauge I would suggest the RB25 sender unit has a different resistance characteristic to the sender unit used in the factory motor. I had to use the temp sender from my R32 RB20 motor to maintain correct temp readings. If you have the old motor it hopefully will be simply a means of unscrewing the RB25 unit and inserting the unit from the old motor (fingers crossed - I don't know what old motor you had). Hope this helps. Cheers,

You have been looking in the right direction. The ECU detects idle via the throttle switch which will be mechanically connected to the throttle bodies. The throttle position is manually set via a small screw (at least it is on the RB20s and Rb25s). If someone has adjusted the position of the screw it will idle high and the idle switch won't close. With the engine not running and the throttle closed it would be worth checking if the idle contacts are closed. This can be done via a continuity check or if the engine is running you can can check to see if about 10V is present at pin 54 (idle contact signal). When the accelerator is pressed the voltage at pin 54 should drop to 0V. I have worked on an R33 that held a high idle thanks to someone adjusting the throttle valve position to remedy a stalling problem. Its a place to start. Hope this helps.

From what you have described it is the exhaust temp sensor. I'm not familar with the temp senor arrangement in the R33s but the R32s have a sensor/switch which screws into the CAT. Unlike the R32s the R33s exh temp sensor is monitored by the ECU (signal wire is Pin 57 and earth for the sensor is Pin 30). If you have an aftermarket CAT its possible no provision exists for the sensor in which case it was left loose after installation of the CAT. Can you take a photo? Hope this helps Cheers

My previous R32 had an RB20 with a remapped ECU that I organised through Chiptorque. My latest R32 has an RB25 with larger injectors and turbo so I bought a plug in Haltech E11v2. Quite happy. As it runs off a MAP sensor I don't have to worry about about stalling problems associated with the AFM. Overall good idle, cold start and general running. Cheers

If it starts momentarily and then stops it I would first check for an air leak. Check intercooler pipes, pipe between airflow meter and turbo etc. Failing that check the basics, fuel and spark. Cheers

I used an RB20 flywheel on the RB25 I slotted into my car. I also used an R33 manual g/box. Cheers

You got it in one. All three fans are activated together either by the temp switch or by the Haltech as an auxiliary input (I have an RB25). The 10" fan is one I bought from Ebay. Haven't had any overheating problems thus far. Cheers

Cubes, The fan in question is similar in construction to the one in your photo (ie. metal casing for the motor and plastic fan blades etc). You will notice the bearing housing for the motor armature sits proud of the rest of the motor housing. When the radiator fell over it appears the bearing housing has sustained the full impact. Although no visible damage was evident on the outside the damage appears to have occured with the bearing. Unfortunately I found out the hard way when I kept blowing fuses due to excessive current draw. Once I turned the fan blades by hand I recognised the problem. Great work with your car btw. Cheers

A couple of words of warning. Firstly, I don't believe a 16" fan will fit in the available radiator space for an R32 so I would suggest you measure before purchasing a fan larger than 14". Secondly, it pays to handle the fans carefully when fitting as damage to the motor can occur easily if the fan is dropped by accident. This is especially true with the ebay fans due to the external motor bearing housing sitting proud of the rest of the housing. I damaged one of these ebay 14" fans when the radiator accidentally tipped over whilst fitting an additional 10" fan (the 14" had been fitted weeks earlier). I subsequently purchased a 14" Davies Craig fan which has performed flawlessly. Some food for thought. Cheers

Its the plug for the thermo fan temperature switch. The switch screws into the bottom of the radiator as shown in one of your photos. It will activate the thermo fan to assist the engine fan when the temperature reaches a preset value (about 87 degrees from memory). The male connector can be located near the top left hand side of the radiator(when looking at the engine). The plug can then be clipped into the radiator shroud. Cheers

I did this conversion myself in June last year and can highly recommend it. With the stock turbo the RB25 offers great low down punch. I wired up a 'Plug 'n' Play' loom to enable the use of the factory ECU. With a PFC and a little more boost you will have a reasonably quick streetcar. If you do choose the RB25 option though, I would recommend looking for a motor out of an R33 and not the stagea as there appears to be a little more involved in wiring up the loom to run off the stock ECU (I looked at it recently for a guy in Perth). I am about to wire up a loom for a another member of SAU who is going to put an RB25 in his cefiro and I will be taking pics of the process (I placed some less detailed pics of my loom in my members gallery). If you would like assistance with any aspect of the conversion feel free to drop me an email or PM. I took plenty of pics of my conversion so I can forward them to you. Hope this helps. Ben

You can buy them through any exhaust shop.

It could be a number of things but one of the most common causes is incorrect fitting of a boss kit for an aftermarket steering wheel. I assume you have already checked the power steering fluid level. There is a steering angle sensor which is actuated by the boss kit. For some reason most boss kits have the cut out for the sensor actuator in the wrong position which subsequently gives the hicas an incorrect steering angle. Hence, after driving in a straight line for a given time the Hicas thinks the car is turning for this period of time and reports it as a fault. In the past I have had to modify the boss kit to ensure that when the steering wheel is straight the hicas identifies the correct steering angle (0 degree position I believe). Hope this helps.

Broken exhaust studs seem to be a common occurance on the RB motors. In my experience it is typically the top stud on cylinders 1 and 6 than give most grief. When they break you are best to buy a stud extractor to remove them. Extracting the studs will first require drilling a small hole in the broken stud and using the extractor to remove it. It can be a challenge though with the motor in the car unless you have a small drill that you can get in the confines of the engine bay. I tried once on an RB20 in an R32 with a medium sized drill but to no avail. I have been fortunate in the recent past to have the motors out of the cars when I've extracted the studs. Obviously once the studs are removed (and providing there is no damage to the threads in the head) you simply screw in new studs. I highly recommend replacing all the studs or you run the risk of further breakages when you torque the manifold up. PS Removing studs from the head is easiest done by locking 2 nuts together on a stud. Hope this helps.

I only just purchased one through Nissan (Springwood) a week ago and got it for about $85. I got some cheap gasket with my cheap stst manifold but it started leaking so spent the money and got the genuine item from Nissan. Cheers

What car do you have, R32 or R33? The fuel pump relay is located in the passenger footwell on the R32's (behind the ECU) but in the boot (near the battery) in the R33's. Can you hear the pump prime when you first turn the key to the ON position? The fuel pump will prime for a couple of seconds and then stop. Are you sure an intercooler hose or similar hasn't come loose? A major air leak will prevent the car from starting. If the piping is ok check the power to the pump when the key is first switched to the ON position (only lasts a couple of seconds). If no power is present then check the relay. PIN18 on the ECU (R32 & R33) earths the relay coil. You will need to check the main power feed to the relay and the voltage at PIN18 when you first switch the key to the ON position. If the ECU has earthed the relay (switched the pump on) you should see 0V otherwise there should probably be battery voltage (I have to check). Hope this helps. Cheers

I have an R32 and have installed a 14" Davies Craig fan but prior to installing the 14" I had a cheap 14" and 10" fan I purchased from ebay. Unfortunately I dropped the 14" fan when installing the 10" and subsequently damaged the motor bearings. I replaced the fan with a Davies Craig 14" fan (In my experience Davies Craig fans are reliable and good performers). I have retained the 10" and the factory A/C fan. All 3 fans are operated at the same time; result = very effective. The fans were triggered via a temperature switch in the bottom of the radiator but now by the Haltech ECU which now runs the engine. I recently installed a single 14" Davies Craig fan on my Bro-in-laws R32 and it operates with the A/C fan. I managed to purchase a 14" Davies Craig Fan kit (includes bolts, relay and wiring loom) from a local Automotive A/C company (Brisbane) for $165 (inc GST). I then purchased a new temperature switch for $45 from Autobahn. The switch activates at 85 degrees and turns off at 80 degrees (Autobahn didn't have a switch in stock that would switch on at about 87 and switch off at about 83). Keep in mind the thermostat opens at about 76.6 degrees. Total price is around $210. Cheers

I also agree with rob82 comments as Matt Spry tried tuning them for my last R32 with factory ECU remap and had the same problems. Took them out. Cheers

Firstly, switch the fan on and note the temperature. If the temperature is high this will result in hot air coming through the vents. Reduce the temperature. This sets the position of the fan temperature control unit (the split of the hot air to cold air) regardless of whether the fan is on or not. I have also had the problem before due to the in-car air temperature sensor being disconnected. If someone accessed the centre panel recently to work on your stereo etc you may find the temp sensor was not reconnected following completion of the work. The temp sensor monitors the temp of the air coming out the small grille beside(?) the ash tray. Hope this helps.

Reviewing the wiring diagrams and ECU input/output signals, there are 2 wires on the ECU that interact with the A/C namely pin 46 (A/C switch signal) and pin 9 (A/C cut signal). It appears that when the A/C button is pressed the ECU detects this via pin 46 and responds by earthing the A/C relay signal wire (pin 9) which controls (in part) the operation of the A/C compressor. I say "in part" because the A/C relay signal wire first passes through a dual pressure switch before arriving at pin 9 on the ECU (ie dual pressure switch is in series with pin 9). This inevitably is to ensure that the A/C system has adequate gas pressure before allowing the compressor to switch on. I think the pressure switch is located on the A/C filter canister which resides in front of the radiator on the drivers side. Provided the system is gassed the compressor should switch on when pin 9 earths the A/C relay signal wire. Assuming the PFC controls the A/C in the same manner as the factory computer (I would be surprised if it didn't) then plugging the PFC in may help to eliminate the ECU as a possible cause of the problem. Failing this you can check the voltages at pin 46 and pin 9 before and after the A/C button is pressed and check what the ECU is doing. I hope this helps. Cheers

The easiest option is to get a mobile injector cleaning company to pay you a visit. They will flow test your injectors before cleaning them so I would assume they would be happy to flow test only at a price. I use a local guy who charges about $20 an injector to clean (Brisbane Southside) so I'm sure you could find someone local to yourself if you search the yellow pages. You could try Injectors R Us as they seem to have a good network around brisbane but are more expensive at around $25 an injector (for ultrasonic clean). Hope this helps

I'll be joining the parade but probably in my sisters R32. My other 2 sisters will also be attending in a stagea. Cheers,

Revive Paint and Panel - 23 Rowland St Slacks Creek. Ph 3208 4811 They repaired my R31 and resprayed my last R32. Recently fixed accident damage to my sisters Stagea. No complaints, quality work and good prices. Cheers