BH_SLO32

PPL, Last weekend I did an RB25 conversion in my Dads R32 skyline (was my previous car). The RB20DET motor is now up for sale. It has 166,xxx kms on the clock and is still in excellent running order. Included: coilpacks, platinum plugs, injectors, power transistor, intake and exhaust manifolds etc (refer photos). The cam covers were professionally painted. Not included: wiring loom, turbo, engine mounts, RB20 temperature sender (has an RB25 sender). Price: $250 neg I want this thing gone to make room for my next project

Count me in. PM sent

Any photos of the head yet? Cheers

You have mail. Cheers, Ben

I'm interested in the RB25 head. Do you have any photos. Are you in Brisbane? Thanks Ben

Gary, I would like to buy the following if still available 1. Front and Rear Bilstein shocks and Whiteline springs 2. Bump stops and dust covers to suit. This car is predominantly street driven but I enjoy tacking it to the drag strip every so often. Will this setup be ok for the strip or am I better off replacing the springs/shocks for periods where I plan to drag race. The car currently runs an Rb25 with GT35R but will soon be replaced with a built RB30 so I will be looking for good launches at the strip. Sorry, tried to PM but your inbox must be full. Will make full payment on Monday if the stock is still available. Thanks for your time. Best regards, Ben

I ended up modifying the boss kit by grinding off the 2 small spots of weld that held the backing ring in place and rotated it to where it needed to be and spot welded it back in place. Problem solved.

I know alot of guys like to use the RB20 wiring loom but personally I prefer to use the RB25 loom and computer. I put a series 2 RB25 motor in my R32 back in June last year and took the RB25 loom and Rb20 loom and made a 'Plug'n'play' loom ie used the R32 plugs that plug into the R32 body loom and wired them into the Rb25 loom. Refer my gallery for photos. In January this year I did a loom for another member who had a cefiro and dropped a series 1 RB25 into it. Its not too difficult if you are good with a soldering iron and at least have a basic understanding of electrics. I had intentions to prepare a basic wiring procedure for the swap as it is so popular but I just haven't had the time. I am happy to give guidance if you wish to give it a go. PS the series 1 and series 2 looms are slightly different. Hope this helps. Cheers Ben

MR032

I have for sale the bottom end of an RB25DE motor which came from an R32 skyline. The motor is in very good condition with an estimated 100,000kms on the clock. It recently had a new timing belt and water pump installed and has been well serviced judging by the condition of the oil and surface of the rotating assembly and lack of surface rust in ANY of the water galleries both in the head and the block. The inclusions are as follows: 1. Block 2. Rotating assembly (eg Crank, rods and pistons still assembled (untouched)) 3. Sump Does NOT include oil pump, tensioner, idler, crank gear or dip stick. Price: $100

When was the last time you changed your fuel filter? With respect to the timing it is easy to get a false reading (out by approx 10 degs) if the timing light is hooked up incorrectly. Try placing the induction pickup over all 3 wires on number 1 coil pack. Hope this helps Cheers

What fuel pump does it have? The bosch o44 pump in my previous 32 did not hold the pressure in the supply line once it was switched off. I could literally watch the fuel pressure drop when the engine was switched off. As a result the brief priming period offered by the ECU was not sufficient to build up system pressure resulting in multiple cranks to get the engine started. This is a good place to start looking. Cheers

From what you have said it sounds like the battery is on its last legs. The ECU needs a minimum of about 9.5V to get things started. I would suggest the voltage is dropping below this when cranking. Is the battery serviceable ie can you top up the liquid level in each cell or is it a sealed unit? The easiest solution is to use a mates battery that you know has good charge. Hope this helps Cheers

Some comments regarding this discussion. My sister was "defected" by an officer last year in her R32 skyline which prompted me to investigate the issue of complience with ADRs and Qld Law. Unless the officer is an approved inspector he/she can only issue you an infringement notice if they reasonably suspect your car does not comply with ADRs and the modification guide. With respect to the issue of pod filters I rang the Modification group and they advised that there is no rule regarding the use of pod filters although they stated that should you install one it should be equivalent to at least the original filter. They used a K&N filter as an example of an acceptable filter. Furthermore they stated that the car must continue to comply with the relevant ADR for emissions. No comment regarding securing the filter was stated however it is generally accepted that the installation of a pod filter or anything else for that matter, must be in accordance with good engineering practice as is the stated requirement for the installation of intercoolers. When my sister had the car inspected by QT the inspecting officer poked at her filter for a period and given it was a foam filter asked her to replace it. I understand the foam filter is considered a fire hazard (my observations only). I have a copy of all the ADRs and although I haven't done an exhaustive search I have found nothing regarding air filters as confirmed by the Modifications group. Hope this adds to the discussion. Cheers

SOLD

Sorry guys, I have someone interested in the rims but he cannot pick them up til the weekend. I will hold them until this time and after that BradGTR has first dibs. Following that they will still be up for sale. Sorry to disappoint anyone but I didn't expect this level of interest in Stagea rims! Ben

Cubes, care to enlighten us

I am led to believe that the pintle caps affect the spray pattern of the injector. If it is broken then I would suggest getting replacement items. They shouldn't cost you an arm and a leg. Cheers

Assuming you have an R33 GTSt the hard spacers I think you are talking about are located under the fuel rail bolt holes. There are 3 of them (see photo of Fuel Rail). There are recesses in the intake manfold to hold them. Hope this helps. Cheers

I have for sale a set of 4 factory Stagea rims. They currently have tyres on them but they would need to be replaced as the inside edges are worn. They are 16"x7" with 40 offset. There appear to be no scuff marks at all. In good condition (just very dirty!) Will sell together for $100 or separately for $25 ea. I'm on the southside of Brisbane. Ph.0404002142

Peoples, please help me clean out my shed! I have the following parts for sale. 1. R33 series 1.5 power steering pump, GC $70 2. R33 standard exhaust manifold, GC SOLD 3. R33 engine fans x2, GC $30 ea 4. R33 cross-over pipe with Factory BOV, GC $35 5. R33 factory BOV, GC $25 6. R33 factory air box with inlet snorkel, GC $65 6. R33 series 1.5 coil packs x5, GC $50 ea 7. R32 coil packs x6, GC $50 ea I'm on the southside of brisbane. Ph. 0404002142

I have a set of R6 race fairings for sale. I used them as cheap insurance when I took my bike out for track days. I sold the bike a year ago and need to get rid of the fairings. There are a number of cracks on the LHS of the top and bottom fairings which have had some basic repairs done otherwise in good condition. $300 ONO I'm on the southside of Brisbane. Ph. 0404002142.

What testing did you do on the O2 sensor? My bro-in-law's car had an aftermarket O2 sensor which was replaced with another aftermarket sensor of the same model and the hunting continued. I thought we could rule out the sensor but when I disconnected the O2 sensor when it was hunting the idle stabilised. Re-connect the sensor and it started hunting again. Hunting would only occur very intermittently. Replaced O2 with a factory unit and hasn't missed a beat. This is the first thing the skyline manuals say to check for and then spark plugs and finally air leaks. Hope this helps.

Steve, This has been covered in a variety of threads but recently Predator did a write up in the Tutorial section http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...opic=119865&hl= I did the conversion last year and can recommend it. Please note there are some minor differences between the R33 series 1 and 2 wiring looms. Predator had a series 1 loom and I have rewired both a series 1 (for another forum member) and 2 loom (for my own car) so am aware of these differences. Hope this helps. Cheers

I'm a little confused, I assume its a new boost gauge you are installing and not a blow-off valve? If you were installing a BOV I would suggest using the factory BOV vacuum line. If you are installing a boost gauge you can either disconnect the factory boost gauge vacuum/boost feed or tee into it. If you tee into this line you should get the same reading from both gauges. If you don't then one of them is faulty. The factory vacuum/boost feed is from the back of the intake manifold on both RB20s and Rb25s. Hope this helps. Cheers