BH_SLO32

If the car is hunting then I would suggest a faulty O2 sensor. To check simply disconnect the O2 sensor next time the car starts hunting and see if the idle stabilises. Hope this helps. Cheers

Hunting can normally be attributed to a faulty O2 sensor. The easiest test is when the car starts to hunt disconnect the O2 sensor and see if the idle stabilises. Poor fuel economy would also suggest a possible O2 sensor fault. If the idle does not stabilise when the O2 sensor is disconnected check for an air leak. I would be surprised if it was not the O2 sensor based on the info you have supplied. Let us know how you go. Hope this helps. Cheers

ahhhhh....I love my skyline! Just need more power....

It would be worth checking that the air regulator is operating correctly. In addition to the AAC valve the air regulator is also used to bypass additional air around the throttle body when the engine is cold. Whereas the AAC is controlled via the ECU the air regulator operates independently of the ECU and is a somewhat simple device which has a 12V feed. When cold the air regulator will open and gradually close when the ambient temperature rises. It should be closed when the ambient temp gets to about 60 degs. The air regulator maybe blocked with crap or not operating at all. I have attached a photo of what it looks like. On the RB20's it is located adjacent the injectors under the throttle body and on the RB25's it sits on the underside of the intake manifold directly above the oil filter/oil cooler. Hope this helps. Cheers,

Enjoyable day; Mud thanks for organising. Good to be able to put a face to some of the names.

Haltech do a plug'n'play. I've got an E11V2 and very happy. Cheers

Hope this helps. Cheers

The water supply for the turbo runs behind the back of the head from the drivers side to the passenger side and there is a small section of hose on the drivers side. Something to look for in addition to the heater hoses. Cheers

I'll be there. Meet you at Springwood.

Found the same intermittent problem on my Bro-in-laws car and remedied the hunting by disconnecting the O2 sensor. The problem was he had already replaced the aftermarket O2 sensor with another (same) item he purchased from Autobahn for $110. Once I threw a geniune item in the problem was fixed. The aftermarket one worked fine sometimes but intermittently caused the car to hunt. There was a thread on this topic a couple of months ago probably worth having a read. In any instance a genuine item is the safest bet. Hope this helps. Cheers

My old R32 with remapped ECU (thanks to Matt Spry) and standard turbo pushing 12psi managed a 14.3 on my first run with G-Tech. Tuned for 15psi I managed a number of runs between 13.7 and 13.9 (again with G-Tech).

I run a similar setup in my cars (R31 and R32) and my sister had her car (Lancer) setup by Autobahn the same ie. Front speakers and 12" sub are run off a 4 channel amp and the rear speakers run off the head unit. If you are running a sub I wouldn't get too excited about the rear speakers. I have found some quality 6" speakers (eg Boston) give better bass than cheaper 6x9's. Either way a decent sub and appropriately sized amp will give awesome output. I haven't encountered any distortion of the rear speakers when cranked up which maybe a reflection of the strength of the output of the speakers run off the amp. Hope this helps. Cheers

I have an idea. You may be able to use the signal from the CAS (presumably its the 120 deg signal) and modify it with the Jaycar digital speedo corrector unit. I have built the circuit and would be happy to donate for trial. I'm on Brisbanes Southside as well. Cheers, Ben

I wasn't aware either until I read it in the instructions for the digital tacho which has provision for both low and high voltage inputs. Traditionally tachos are driven off the negative side of the coil and the instructions refer to this input as a "high voltage" input. I can't see how as the tacho wire should be connected to the switched side of the primary coil which typically operates between 8-12V DC. In any instance the instructions recommended using 250VAC rated wire if the coil input was used, go figure??? Anyway, if you have managed to get the tacho to work already I would suggest the signal strenght is ok. Can you please explain where you got the signal feed from the CAS? I assume you are refering to the Crank Angle Sensor (CAS). The output signal from the ECU at idle is about 1V if measuring DC voltage. The signal is actually a pulsed DC wave with a voltage of about 6V which you would see with an oscilloscope. Sorry this probably doesn't really help. Cheers,

I assume you are looking for a DC voltage at pin 7? As the output is a low voltage supply I would expect that the ECU uses a built-in circuit which uses the ignition timing as an input to generate the tacho output signal. If you are not getting an output from pin 7 then it maybe an internal fault in the ECU. The fault may have occurred if the circuit was overloaded due to incorrect wiring or possible shorting when the conversion was undertaken. If you have access to another ECU you could try it but if the wire from pin 7 is currently connected to the Silvia body loom then it would pay to disconnect this before plugging in the other ECU to prevent possible shorting in the event the conversion wiring is incorrect. Incidentally I recently purchased a digital speed correcting kit from Jaycar for about $45 which I tested on my R32 with RB25det and an adjustable digital tacho (4 or 6 cylinder selection). I was able to adjust the 6 cylinder tacho signal to give a 4 cylinder signal for driving a 4 cylinder tacho (the digital tacho in this case). Some food for thought. As with my digital tacho I would expect the Sparco tacho has provision for both a low and high voltage input? If so, make sure you have not hooked up the wire from pin 7 to the high voltage input. Hope this helps. Cheers

In case you couldn't find it. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=115185 Cheers

I posted the wiring diagram and ECU pinouts in the maintenance section about a week ago. Cheers

If it is an R33 I will almost guarantee that it is the indicator stalk. Over time the indicator contacts get worn and eventually this leads to arcing. You will probably also hear quick clicking occuring. The arcing allows a small current draw which sends the flasher unit crazy but is not enough to light up your indicators. The excessive heat created during arcing results in the surrounding plastic from melting which I believe is the smoke you eventually see. You can pull the indicator apart and clean up the contacts if its not too bad. Hope this helps. Cheers

Adrian, I have a couple of different ones but the one attached appears to be from an original manual. A little hard to read but its probably the best. Ignore my scratchings. If you have the ECU pinout it should be a little easier to use (I can supply if required). Cheers, Ben R32_RB20_26_Wiring_Diag_P1_P2.pdf

I have one with a used plug (wires cut) - $250 Cheers

I've run the RB20 sensor on my RB25 for a period with no noticeable side effects. The range of the sensor read by the RB20 and 25 ECUs is the same so I couldn't imagine there would be any real difference although I am not sure.

Advice will depend largely on what your plans are for the car and associated power and torque levels and obviously your budget. The cheapest alternative is to pick up another RB20 and drop in. I have one sitting on my back porch if interested. The RB25 conversion even with stock turbo is a nice upgrade providing a nice street car but will cost substantially more than a direct RB20 replacement. Again it depends on what you wish to achieve (drag, circuit, drift etc). Some food for thought. Cheers

You'll be amazed how many other countries operate in similar fashion. I have been to china twice and the driving is just as bad. It gets even worse in the big cities with BIG roundabouts! Incidentally zebra crossings in china don't mean the traffic will stop to let you pass. They are merely places where you a less likely to get hit when crossing the road!

Pin 45 is the ignition feed. It is supplied power via the thick black wire with red stripe in the engine bay plug near the power steering reservoir. ECU pinout and wiring diagram attached. Hope this helps. Cheers ECU_Pin_outs_for_RB26DETT.doc R32_RB20_26_Wiring_Diag_P1_P2.pdf

Does the car idle high only once warm? If so I would suggest you check the air regulator which is different from the AAC valve. The air regulator allows air to bypass the throttle when the engine is cold and slowly closes as the engine warms. Once the ambient temperature (around the regulator) reaches about 60 degs it should be completely closed. The easiest way to check would be to pinch the air regulator hoses and see if the idle changes. If the idle merely hunts then I would suggest unplugging the O2 sensor and see if the idle stabilises. Hope this helps. Cheers