arbess

this guy used to park at uni last year quite a bit. i would have to agree with PWNED, it did have some ugly marks on the body kit from accidents.

If you have any questions about the details of how I checked for things, don't hesistate to ask. It would just be too much for me to write it here now. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Ok ok here it is, I will keep it short and sweet because it has been such a long tale that I don’t ever want to re-live. Stuttering. My car had been doing this for around a year and a half. It has been this long because I don’t drive it and I don’t really have the time to fix it, not to mention the cash it would take to send it away. At first the car would stutter when more than, let say 50% of the throttle was applied. Under this amount the car was fine with no evidence of a problem. This is what bugged me for such a long time and took me to the end of the world. I couldn’t think of what exactly it was but I knew for starters it was electrical. It all sort of happened when I filled up using Shell V-power racing +ethanol. This was NOT my problem, but it gave me the first impressions. Things that I did and recommended by other users of SAU were: - Change spark plugs [No effect] - Check coil packs [No effect] - Clean AAC Valve [No effect] - Change gear box fluid [No effect] - Change Attessa fluid [No effect] - Change fuel pump [No effect] - Change fuel filter [No effect] - Change back to stock airbox [No effect] - Re-solder AFM joints [No effect] - Re insulate Coil pack wiring loom [No effect] - Check for continuity in PTU (Igniter Module) [No effect] - Clean, professionally, fuel injectors [No effect] - Change injector seals [No effect] - Check continuity in CAS [No effect] - Re-earthed the car [No effect] - Checked turbo intake gaskets [No effect] - Changed to std gtr intercooler [No effect] - Checked vacuum pipes [No effect] - Changed battery [No effect] That’s about all I can think of at the moment. The issue contributed to consistently having a dead battery. You all ready, here the almighty answer? As I was going over it again, for something like the billionth time, I was charging the battery with all the terminals still connected and while I was refitting my new HKS filters I saw this feint glow near the bottom of the power steering reservoir, which I thought at first was just some light bouncing around. This occurred to me as very strange as there was no possible way light could be in that spot where there was no clearance to the ground. I continued to shake the power steering reservoir and the light blinked on and off as I shook it. To add, a week prior I cleaned that section of the reservoir with contact cleaner which made the stutter go increase from 50% throttle to 1% thottle, so I pretty much had a fooked up car on my hands. Continuing, I put the maths together and though I should have a look down there. I proceeded to removing the power steering reservoir. Below this reservoir is an engine loom that sticks itself to the side of the car body next to the strut. The shocking, most unbelievable thing came to sight. The loom that sits under this reservoir had somehow wedged itself between the reservoir and car body. Where they contacted created a wear point that wore out the insulation of the wire to bare copper. THIS WAS THE CULPRET! What this did it provided a short circuit to the body when the voltage increased. So I proceeded to re-insulate this section and refit everything back to normal. BAM I was off down the street and what do I get, BOOST, TURBO, AWD, GTR GTR GTR, I was the happiest kid on the block that day. After a year and a half of utter sadness for this machine it was back and better than ever. I have to say that from all the changes to brand new components the car is actually running better and with more power. So, I would like to personally thank all for their contributions to my problems and thank you for your patience with my posts. It has been long but I suppose the one thing that I have achieved is knowledge of the car I have passion for. TO SAU AND R32’s! =P -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Link to my old post that lead to this post: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...l&hl=arbess

oh and Vish, when you said the power of your yellow shotgun, was that in kW or HP?

aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaahahahha, that dude was trying to impress his boy friends back at West End. Anyways cheers to meeting your all, sorry I think the only person I didnt say hi to was Miss Nizz, my bad, im just shy =P Heres some photos, too lazy to chop out the number plates, let me know if you want them removed. Oh and thank u and nice to meet you Vish.

There are about 1,000,000 ways to answer your question, some of them are: 1: Cost - If a manufactured did what you said, they wouldnt make profit because their target market wouldnt be able to afford it. 2: Reliability - Building it to its maximum and lowering the factor of safety doesnt make a good car. As you know, cars are designed to go well over 100,000 km. Sure they can do it, but again, for how much. They are the two i can think of. Simple logical reasons you probably use everyday, but just on a large large scale.

http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html all u need

thanks dude, u had lots of input to this. look out in the next week or so for my wrap up post on my dilemma. next word is..... resovoir.

nope... =)

well done to a red r33 on kessels and main rds tonight for not paying attention to the lights. =)

+1 with this dude. not sure what your trying to say, but yes, take it to a specialist. Up here in brisbane i like being looked after by Fulcrum (suspension guru's)

+1 what the dude above me said

OMFG EVERYONE!!!!!! THE GTR IS BACK!!!! THE POWER IS AMAZING! OMFG OMFG OMFG I will write a post on my experience in the 1 year of no power. THANK YOU TO ALL those patient guys/girls that gave input to the issues, your advices were well worth it and were not looked over. A little word to tease all of you about the post i will write.... spark. WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO OOOT

saw grey r32 gtr with phaaaaaaaat rear rims and s15 stock rims on front @ eight mile plains, about 730pm. hello.

sorry mate, can't identify that one, but sure looks like you gave it hell getting it out.

yeh seems like no spark in number 4. i think it could be ignition module related as well. ah thanks for mentioning that it might not show up on the ECU codes. I havent checked the compression of number 4. how do i get one of those done, is it pricey? would they check that on a dyno as well?

yeh thanks mate, it could well be the clips but ive been over those many many times. cheers. keep em coming team!

ok. im adding more to this saga. the AFM seems to be okay after all this. check the plug wiring, checked the afm solder joints, so that part is good. Now when I start the car it is permanently in WRX mode. I re-checked the ignition loom and tested each cylinder for a rev drop. Number 4 seems to be the only one that doesnt respond to a rev drop. I pulled out the spark plugs and Number 4 seems to be fouling, full of black crap. to make sure it wasnt the coil pack, i switched coil pack number 4 with coil pack number 2 and the problem still is at cylinder 4. I checked all the wiring i could and I can only think of the ignition module. BTW: I checked the ECU light and got an all clear from the codes. what is going on boys and girls?!?!?!

My guess is that you can't read the sub-title. FYI and for any other smart ass that thinks they can post unsubstantiated claims, I have searched the SAU forum and I believe that this picture would provide better visual clarity. Thank you to the other two rational users for your comments and further contributions.

i have the excel file to this if needed.

could be your pressure caps (radiator cap). racing ones are upgraded to high pressure caps. this sets a higher benchmark for overflow (possibly what you call boiling)

Here you all go, thought I might share something I made. I have taken this directly off the manual for those who don't have one. I take no liability for any omissions that might have occurred during the creation of this. have fun.

cool didnt realise you were in brisbane. must have a show n tell when you finish.

you get a star next to your name! lol. nah thanks for your imput.. i sort of gathered that that could contribute to the problem, but didnt think it would be so easy to figure out. let hope that when i fix this problems will go away. so do you remember where you bought the plug? =)

ok i played with it again. i didnt pull the plugs out to check which one was fouling... do that tomorrow. but when i was playing with the AFM plug the car started dying and doing what it does when im on the road in gear, wrx'ing. The plug on the back AFM is damaged, as in where it used to have the plastic extension to bundle the wires with, that has disappeared because it has been hitting the power steering pump reservoir. Each time you touch this plug the car goes funny and idles like a 5 cyl car. BTW it is NOT the AFM, I have eliminated this with a working set of AFM from another R32 gtr. =)

ill check the plugs now. the rev limiter has never been touched, stock gtr. i have had the injectors cleaned only 2 weeks ago.