arbess

boxer mode.. it runs very rough. no power. but it will rev without limitation just very roughly. comp test, will do when i get my hands on one of those things.

ok i have pulled off the coil packs individually and checked if any cylinders arent firing. the results are that they are all firing. each cylinder responds by rev drop and sounding like a wrx. whats next dudes?

good start, thank you for your reply. i will try this this arvo.

Hey all, just before the keyboard warriors start flaming, yes I have searched. I have just gone to hell with my car. some of you might know that I have been trying to locate my stuttering problem for some time now. I have just recently cleaned my AAC unit. changed back to hks pod filters. new spark plugs. when i turned the car back on after being batery-less for about a week, the car went fine for around 10mins. The only thing that was weird in its good condition was that it was booting WAY to high, way above the stock boost, and i could hear the turbos going nutz with the spooling. after the 10mins the car turned into a wrx/boxer engine. as soon as you give it gas in any gear, it goes boxer. when it idles it idles at 1050rpm, too high. the car will rev all the way out in neutral. There is no black/blue/white smoke coming from my exhaust pipe. if someone/anyone could give me a run down of things to check, i would much appreciate this. thank you.

holy crap... where to start. um i have a manual that i can find a link for you to dl. it will give you a much better idea where pipes go on a rb26. to me it sounds like an incompatibility problem. stuff on the old neo rb25 were connected to your wiring that the rb26 can do. im no guru, but you got some big job ahead of you. there should be some dudes around here that know about compatibility between rb25 and 26. otherwise, just keep searching.

Call me tomorrow, 0437638842 ill pass you onto my boss, he's from the coast. If you call me before 5pm today, could get you onto him. Good luck.

dodgy bastards working on unsecure surfaces. good luck finding a place.

PING! yeh use a minimum of 95. gl hf

please elaborate. what happens when you do use awd? what happens when it cuts out? sounds odd

pretty sure, that lowest RON (octane) you can use is 95. Read the specs for an R33. btw octane isnt a percentage, it has another unit.

Its a little screw thing if thats what your on about, that plays with your idle. If your car is idling fine at rest then you shouldnt have to touch it. Yes AFM's can disturb your cars operation, give that a good clean or test someone elses on your car. BOV are a pain in the ass. Hard to tell if they are leaking without submitting it to some sort of pressure test, but they can lead to some severe idle problems and driving issues. One thing I am doing in cleaning my injectors and replacing the seals. that could be another venture for you. I think, not confirmed, that I have lost vacuum through my seals. I'll let everyone know if i've fixed my problem by replacing the seals.

its the link for when you want to upgrade to Vtek y0. gives your 200 bazillion trillian kW at the wheels. All nissans have it for when they need to race a honda civic with a k22 VteK forged internals lumpy cams +turbo +supercharger 22psi, 1 wheel drive egg beater. =D

v-power sucks imo but fuel choice wont be an issue. my rb26 does this same thing. i am in the process of locating the problem. sounds like you have a vacuum leak to answer the idle variation. Loss in power around the round-about could be anything, so i wont rattle on to confuse you. your lights are dimming because your alternator is slowing down and not providing the voltage/current required for the system, this is more a side affect (though could indicate low battery) ignition is supposed to be more noticable throughout the rev range, so may not be this. Though what i read a lot is the coil pack in the 33's cracking on the outside. Our cars are very sensitive to vacuum leaks, all it takes is a small hole for air to enter/escape and you get alternating idle. In summary problems vary from car to car with the same symptoms, but for me that heads towards a vacuum leak. If you find your idle at stop is pretty consistent and not too much variation (lets say plus or minus 100rpm) then it might just be a small crack in a hose or seal of some sort. good luck, i could be wrong all together

lol always love that quote from "Bench Warmers"... "Build it and the nerds will come"

hey buddy, havent seen your name in a while. try posting your question in the post i created, you should get a faster answer there, hopefully. this link is in my signature. good luck.

Ok this is leading on from my old thread Click here to read. What I would like to discuss is injector seals. There are three seals on a injector: 1: on the top [on the top tip in the fuel rail, o-ring]; 2: another on the top tip, sits inbetween the injector and fuel rail, and; 3. on the bottom that sits around the bottom tip and engine block. What I would like to find out, has anyone ever had anyone of these 3 fail on them, as in break or wear out? If so what did it do to you engine operation? For me I have a worn out number 3 seal on one of the injectors and i believe the residue build up on the o-ring is a fuel-aix mixture. My car is suffering from what seems to be hesitation. From my old thread I have gone through the regular checks: not fuel pump; not ignitor pack; not coil wire loom; not coils; not spark plugs; not earthing cables; not afm's; not wheel rolling diameter. If anyone would like to leave a comment to futher progress this issue, that would be great, it would help me and possibly others in the SAU community. Thanks

That is one hawt service you have given the R35. Thumbs up!

Additionally another thought is, this "worn" seal is on cylinder 4 corresponding to spark plug 4 in the pictures above. When you look at the condition of the plug and from all the information i have gathered, there seems to be a link with the colour and condition of the spark plug with the worn seal. hmm... more later this week.

Since my last post i have cancelled out a few things: not fuel pump; not ignitor pack; not coil wire loom; not coils; not spark plugs; not earthing cables; not afm's; not wheel rolling diameter. Other things I have done, possibly not related: changed gearbox oil; change transfer case oil; checked attessa resovior. I am currently working on the fuel injectors as I found a bad seal that had fuel mixture around the seal [This seal is the one between the engine and injector]. What I saw when I removed the rail and injectors was that out of the 6 injector seals, 5 stayed on the engine and 1 came out with the seal, which that one had the residue on the seal. If that came out nice and easy, what could happen under cylinder combustion? going to clean the injectors and then replace new seals. I want to have a look at the fuel regulator at the end of the fuel rail, but that will be after the injector clean and seal replacement.

i take back this post

What workshop is/was it? I have a funny feeling im thinking of the same one in woolloongabba.

so what do you call it? Toburu, Toyoru, Suyota?? wha wha? Not bad styling but not a fan of the boxer engine from sooobaaaroo. so theres nothing for me to attach my interests to. gd luck

That was an excellent review by Jeremy Clarkson. It gives a closer feel to reality of what my expectations are for the R35. Even with a review such as this, it would never stop me from having one, though I think it does push the want for an orginal rb26 powered GT-R, for the roughness, for the design, for the engineering that has gone into creating such a machine. Lets hope that when Nissan bring out the V-spec, V-spec II, N1... yadda yadda yadda Nismo, something traditionally found on the R32-34 is added to it, like a manual... haha

yellow r32 with drift kit. are u on here, you park in the same lot as I do (i drive a camry to work) at eight mile plains????

haha are you quoting my bad engarish? on the handling side of things, what i hear is they have more sway about them and just dont come up to the "coupe" standard.