Zahos

Iridiums and platinums do not offer any better spark over copper. In fact, the copper plugs are better conductors and offer a better spark. Only think is they dont last as long, which is a good thing on a tuned high performance car, as you would want new plugs at least every 20,000Km. The Iridiums and platinums till have a copper core anyhow, but have a thin layer coating the core. They shouldn't be re-gapped b/c their tips can be easily scratched, thus turning them into $20 copper plugs as oppossed to $3 copper plugs. Try some NGK copper plugs, they will work just as well, if not better for a fraction of the price. The plug you need depends on your driving habbits.... If you drive like a grandma most of the time, NGK BCPR5E or (BCRP5E-11) If you take it on the track, or thrash it quite often, go for the same in a 6 heat range, so BCPR6E (-11) Whatever you end up getting, regap them to 0.7. Then make sure you tuner advances your timing to past the 20degree mark (as long as their is no knocking, if there is then he should retard the timing to a safe level). This should help make that power curve look a little more linear. You will never fully get rid of the problem unless you get aftermarket management, as it is an issue with your ignition timing curve on the stock ECU. Boost + stock ECU + VCT = miss at 5000 rpm! Zahos

oh.... mine was never in the way of the horn, i dont know what it was.......

Dont bother... Mine broke too, and that piece of plastic was driving me mad in there.... I just took the broken piece out... I've had no problem, not does it bother me.... I have noticed no difference either.

After about 15 mins of driving, my oil preasure drops to about 2 Bar, sometimes a little less (on idle that is), while driving it is typically around 4 Bar. I assume this type of behaviour is correct? I always let mine warm up at least 1 minute, revving it a little (2000rpm - and not continously), so oil can circulate.

3.5 on the standard boost guage is normal! 3.5 = 350 mmgH (I think) = 0.47 Bar = 6.76 psi. The boost guage measures in a different unit of measure if you haven't noticed...

thanks Lenno

I dont see why it would make a difference, auto or manual.... Anyhow, if your car is stalling at 15 Deg, then you have a problem. You may not be seeing the right thing... I borrowed a friends timing light as my one is a real cheapo! His told me 15 Deg from that wire coming off the igniter module, but with my timing light, it appeared to be bouncing all around the 20 - 30 Deg mark. So with my timing light, I put it on the wire that goes to coil #1, and it gave me the right reading. Try using that as your reference point to see if your timing light is giving you the right readings from the loop wire off the igniter module.

What I meant was the torque settings for the bolts that hold the dump pipe onto the turbo... Does any1 know know if they have any torque settings?? Surely someone must have changed their dump pipe themselves recently...

not at 10 - 11psi (0.7 - 0.8 bar) can you check your timing? When does it happen? the entire rev range, or only at a certain point?

Well most of us have had this problem, and the way I solved it was: - NGK BCPR(5/6)E plugs at 0.7 mm (better 6) - take car for 15 min drive to warm it up - Reset ECU - advance timing to 20-23 degrees (careful though this is done properly to avoid pinging) - Take car for a good thrashing (if it pings, then re-do your timing - retard it)

what kinda power figures r u looking at? A heat range of 8 seems very cold to me. Let me put it this way, I have a turbo back xorst, filter, and boost controller (set to 11psi), and I am using a heat range of 5! I was using 7, and they would foul very quickly, and within 2 weeks of installing/cleaning, the problem would return. I used 6, and it was much better, but still happened if I didnt thrash it once in a while. I am using 5 now, and initially it was much better, the car was purring like a kitten, but if I have been giving it heaps, I notice a little pinging. So a heat rating of 8, is overkill with only basic mods, and only makes your problem worse. (assuming you only have basic mods that is) And, go the coppers next time, they produce a better spark, but dont last as long. NGK BCPR6E is the best plug I've used so far (and yes I have used platinum plugs too) Do a search, I'm sure some people are really sick of me talking about spark plugs , as this has been brought up before lots of times, you will find some other useful info too. George

what plugs, heat rating, and gap?

what r u selling them for new dave?

Hi all, I'm changing my dump / front pipe on Friday, and I was wondering if any1 knew if and what the torque settings are for the dump onto the turbo? Or do I just do it as tight as possible? George

try searching these forums first... it is a common problem with R33's because of the ignition maps on the standard ECU. I seriously doubt it is one of your coil packs, as it would always happen, not just when you boost past 10psi. Only cures I know of are: - Aftermarket ECU - Piggyback ITC for ECU - Advance timing past 20 degrees (although could be dangerous)

If you kept the other pieces you chopped off, try and cut pieces from those to (almost) block the holes. If you need to use part of the bend, try using a heat gun to straighten it up. Next put it in place, and use fiber glass on the inside of the bumber so you dont see it, and bog the bits up on the visible parts with fiber glass resin. Then send it as flat as you can, then spray it. I did this for a hole in a bumper once that occured from an accident, and it came out pretty good.

Well, I just got off the phone with Peter at Hi-Tech, and I am very happy. I told them that I bought a dump and front pipe from them a while ago and that I wasn't convincd the dump pipe was of good quality. Lambros at Hi-Tech suggested that they send me a new front/dump pipe combo (1 piece, as they dont make the dump/front seperate anymore), and I send them my old item back... I have to pay for shipping my old one back to them, but I guess that is fair since I will receive a newer item, and that it has been so long since I received the original. I didnt expect them to take any action after so much time has passed, but they did. I'm glad to see some businesses still operate in a professional manner, and look after their customers. That is after all (or should be) one of the primary objectives of running a business, to ensure customer satisfaction, and provide the highest quality possible in their product! Thanks Nick (Blitz) for suggesting I contact them. I think it has been a fair outcome. George

Nick you have PM

Well I bought a front pipe and dump pipe from the group buy. The build quality on the dump was very bad. The welding was shocking, and it was not cut very well at all! As the pipe needed to be constructed from a few pieces, there were pieces that needed to be shaped, and cut correctly. The dump has a piece inside that was never cut, and hence is restrictive. I have attached a really crappy pic to give you an example... The front pipe was very well constructed on the other hand....

what state are you in?

Here's my experience with airfilters.... I bought a Rush O2 pod, which can flow more that almost all (or I think it is all) of the jap filters. The only difference I noticed was top end, it was less restrictive than the standard ryco paper filter.... I then put the factory airbox back in, and slapped in a K&N panel filter, and I have noticed no difference between it and the pod. You dont need a pod, a K&N panel is just fine. I dont personally have numbers to back me up, but if I cant feel ANY diffence, then whats the point...

Try looking at this thread as well.

Well by law, if someone in another lane is indicating, and is in front of you, you have to let them in..... I always indicate with heaps of notice, and people usually let me in. I dont like to wait for a gap, then indicate..... But when I see some mofo speeding up to not lert me in, I swerve into that lane hard (only about 1/8 th into the lane), the other person usually brakes hard, then I slowly take the lane..... This technique is effective about 80% of the time it is used... maybe more...

it's like a tap. You adjust how much air/fluid flows through it. So if you put one in place of the solenoid (which is like an electronically controlled flow control valve), you basically have a bleeder setup.

The solenoid is setup to work in the same way as a bleed valve, but under controlled conditions. The ECU decides when and how much to bleed off. You could put a flow control valve in place of the factory solenoid and it will work as a bleeder would. You wouls also pay less than half the price of a bleed valve.