Zahos

OK so I found out what the loud clank was when reversing. I could not believe it when I discoverd it whilst washing my car... The bonnet was loose.... B/c reversing forces the front end down, the bonnet would go down, them spring back up and make the noise as it tapped the latch. So I re-adjusted the latch, and the 2 rubbers on each corner of the bonnet to the point where it was a tight fit, and noise gone....

Dont suppose you have any prices to go with those???

I am on my second set of bendix pads up front, and 1st on the rear, and I have never heard any noise come from the pad. Furthermore, for daily street driving, they perform great! On the track, I wouldn't know.... I had RB74's and they squeeled like a mofo. I don't think I installed the anti squeel shims properly though, b/c I put too much anti squeel glue on them... When I took them out after 1000km, they were cracked, I wouldn't buy them again, even though they did a VERY good job of stopping the car....

ur not suppossed to put it into first once you pull it out. There is an old thread on here somewhere. Have a search for it...

well, I just came back from the workshop, and he reckons the noise is the springs on the center vibrating. He is going to replace the clutch. It's not a major isue, just an annoyance. As for clunking in reverse, it still remains a mystery. boosted: Thanks for that info. My noise seems to come from the front, but like i said it may be resonantion from elsewhere and appear to come from the front... I'll give them a call if it desn't work out wih the workshop I have it at now. TracidTrax: I paid $800 fitted. I ave heard mainly good hings about daiken/exceedy. I thought they were also suppliers of most OEM clutches? Other than the noise, the clutch is very good. What are common problems with Daiken clutches? Jax: I thought about that, but they started happening right after I changed my clutch. Before that the only noise I heard was the old spigot bush tweeting like a bird, and the thrust bearing squeeking... Thanks for the input anyhow...

It's a single organic with a clamp load of 850kg ~ 1800lbs. It does have a sprung center. Well, if I find out anything, I'll post up here so you can fix ur problem to hopefully. How long ago did you do your clutch? Mine was done about 1 month ago.

Hey, No noise on relese / engagement. Clutch is otherwise very quite, and pedal feel is great (very light). Clutch also has a very strong bite! I was thinking that, but don't know enough about clutches to be sure. I forgot to mention that he thinks that there may be some play on the main shaft, and that b/c there is a new spigot bush, the main shaft is rubbing on the bush???? I called them and will be taking it down later, they are happy to have a look at it for me... So how can a thrust bearing that has not been installed correctly make that type of noise? I have never seen how they are installed, so I wouldn't know...

Hi All, I have a strange problem I was not able to dig up any info on... Recently I had my clutch changed to daiken exceedy Heavy duty. The thrust bearing and spigot bush were also replaced. Dunno if this makes a difference, but I was told that the spigot bush was installed under high pressure oil. Anyhow, It has developed a strange problem where once in gear, at low RPM and under load, I get a grinding noise (up until 2500 - 3000 rpm). I can only hear it in the following gears: 2nd (not very loud) 3rd (very loud) 4th (not very loud) It is very apparent when the car is cold, and less noticeable when warm. The noise is intermittent, at a low frequency, but increases as revs do. I cannot do it in neutral, and if I change gears at higher rpm, or do not put load on at low rpm I cannot hear the noise at all. The other issue is, in reverse, if say reversing up-hill and put load on the clutch, I hear a VERY loud rattling noise which appears to be coming from the front left hand corner of the car. AND, if the car is stationary, in reverse, clutch pedal in, and I VERY quickly let the pedal out to friction point and depress again, I hear a VERY loud clank or bang which appears to part of the rattling noise I hear when reversing under load. Has anyone ever had these issues before? They seem quite strange to me. I took it back to the guy that did my clutch, but the car had warmed up by the time I got there and didn’t do it at all... so he couldn't be of any help... Thanks in advance

The symptoms you describe are very common with R33's b/c of thei ageing coil packs. This issue has been covered to death, search for coil packs, misfire, hessitation OR here is a good place to start.

Hey Glenn, have a search for misfire, hessitation coil packs, this issue has been covered to death. A good place to start is here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=51046 This is the approach I took to fix the issue and mine have been running strong for months now, and all it cost me was a few dollars...

Hancook K102's Dry: 8/10 Wet: 8/10 Value for money: 9.5/10 They are down to 75% tread now and dont grip as new... but still well. Yokohama Advan Neova (They were inported from Germany) Dry: 9/10 Wet: 9/10 Value for money: (In my case: 20/10) I got these 2nd hand... 2 had 100% tread - still had the spikey bits all over, and 2 were 99.9% tread - spikey thingies were worn down to little knobs.... 225/50R16 for $90 each. Once they got below 50% tread though they slipped pretty badly....

What did that cost if you don't mind me asking.... I was exploring this alternative ages ago, but found it expensive at the time, so I was going to go for the splitfire replacements.... before I gued them... Anyhow, if it is a cheaper alternative to splitfires, then it may be the go for many others...

Here is a more permanant fix: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=51046 I did this over 9 months ago and haven't had to touch them again.... If you do it properly it is a permanent fix....

If speed camera's were actually placed in accident blackspots and hotspots, and followed the ADR + or - 10% on tollerances, then it would not bother me. But the fact that they are placed on long straight stretches of road where an accident attributed to speeding is about as probable as Steve Bracks licking my ass hole means i dont condone the current operation of these camera's. Price of fuel should be kept as low as possible me thinks!

i also had this happen the way you are describing once, and turned out to be oxidation on the coil packs. When I pulled them out, one of them was green where the coil pack makes contact with the spark plug. Cleaned them all with WD40 and car has never run smoother. Many people I've spoken to overlook this point. Cracked coils usually dont make a big difference on standard boost, but if you are getting it as low as 3000 rpm, I definately suggest looking for any oxidation.

i thought any panel beater with a jig can do that???

All depends on your driving habbits. It doesn't mean you will need to upgrade it, but just an issue of its longevity if you tend to ride the clutch a little sometimes. I wouldn't worry...

Firstly I was told my driving habbits would chew through the flywheel. I drive in traffic and up steep hills to and from work and tend to sometimes slip it a little, and that the pressure plates are made from inferior materials and can be prone to premature failure. My driving habbits are what led him to tell me to steer clear. The premature failure on the pressure plate he has seen in very few cases. On this point he was trying to discourage me from it, didn't tell me I shouldn't get it. Unless you are really unlucky, you should be fine. In terms of driving habbits, need to make sure that clutch suits your application. If it does, then I wouldn't worry about anything if I were you.

Same here, with the 850kg pressure plate. It's actually lighter than the stock clutch I had in my GTSt, and it bites really well. Cost 800 installed ($550 for clutch), and that also included replacing the spigot bush. On the dyno I got 200rwkw, but i have a feeling it is closer to 190.. For street use this clutch it great... I was going to get the extreem 9 puck ceramic cushioned clutch initially, but i was told to steer clear of it by the person installing it.

I have been insured with them for 1 year now, and their service has been excelent. I have been hit twice in the past year and both times, all i had to do was inform them of the details and they took care of the rest. I highly recomend them. And if you ever get a rude prick like that again, ask for their name again, then ask to speak to their superior. I'm sure their attitude will change in one way or another...

$800 See here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=70335

been covered plenty mate. Have a search for wreckers in the vic section, sort results by thread start date, in asceding order

I never changed one myself, so I couldn't tell you.... But like i said, the friction point is in a good position now, and pedal feel is great. So Spencer was a used car salesman?

yep. U know him?

Hey Warren, you hit the nail right on the head mate. Spencer did try to sell me brakes that I dont need, but that doesn't upset me, b/c that's just business! He was very helpful, and did take the time to eplain a fair few things for me... When I told him I was going to replace my swaybars, he asked what bushes I was going to use and if I had any rubber grease. I told him i was on my way to bursons to get some, and he gave me a small sachet and then spent another few minutes telling me how I should do it. Now that may not sound like much of a big deal, but he didn't have to do it, and I appreciate the time he spent helping me. It's the small aspects of customer service that are missing from many workshops I've been to that makes me go elsewhere sometimes. (BTW, I dont think you are bagging him, and I am not defending him, just sharing my thoughts) cheers