linkems

car has basic bolt ons, running -7s with the normal actuator it comes with. Fitted with a blitz spec r boost controller set to 86% duty. What causes the boost curve to waver so much?

80s era turbo'd cars were mostly non intercooled but all ran low compression engines. Running any sort of boost on a high comp engine is a big ask let alone with no intercooler. Hook up a water to air intercooler, have a look on ebay there's heaps of compact units. water/meth or e85 would go down nicely with a high comp motor as well.

i'll take catch can pending more details in pm. Cheers

Hey guys need help identifying which pipe is the inlet/outlet for an r32 gtr heater system. Also hose diameter if any one knows. Cheers Pat

Was this dash 7 equipped car you refer to using stock 8psi actuators or something stronger? Cheers

Can any one explain why my boost curve is fluctuating, at a glance i'd guess some sort of fuzzy logic function however im pretty sure the blitz spec r are theoretically just an open loop controller with simple duty cycle adjustment. The car is running the standard 8psi actuators on dash 7s and the blitz boost controller set to 86. When i eventually fit bigger dumps (i have stock 32), bigger afm and retune on e85, i'd like to run more boost. Is it worth while upgrading to 14psi actuators? Cheers Pat

Do you drop the oil in the oil cooler as well, when you do your oil changes?

Did the 52mm gauge fit properly in there? i remember my 60mm gauge was a snug fit.

I wish i found these guys earlier, m12 1.25 -> 1/8 npt

about 600 i think

Read the vipec thread, there is info on the ruzic display

Bolt patterns are different but as you can see it can be made to not only fit but also look factory. Nismo is without a doubt the easiest and best option, but is NOT the only option.

Yes they will Z32 has 80mm outter diameter Oem pipe is 65mm inner diameter, but will stretch Nismo direct replacement is the easier option, but a z32 will fit and can look factory.

LOL

Hi Trent Is it still possible to setup the car to run closed loop wbO2 with a tune that incorporates the ethanol content sensor? or is this a function you need to sacrifice, considering stoich afr for e85 and e0 will be different. Cheers Pat

What's even more ironic is used to have one of the original plugin links in my 300zx and i hated the thing. As a computer it was not bad for it's age (10years ago), my problem was at the time there was only one reputable tuner in Melbourne. Their results were less then impressive, in fact when i went back to stock ecu with an off the shelf chip i gained 40rwkw and the car ran as smooth as factory. I swore to never get a link again but given there are good tuners now and it being packed with features i want it's hard to ignore .

hey mate was always curious on your progress after seeing your car at chequered when you were picking it up. I had the red gtr32 and was speaking to you a bit about your eflex setup, coming along very nicely. Does the link support direct wide band sensor direct plugin? or do you need to use a wideband controller then hookup 0-5v analog to ecu? Do you lose the factory knock sensor functionality? the link is starting to become very appealing

there is only one mean kit for the 32gtr and that is the factory one .

I don't think they make that power stock the gs rated 315 from factory pulls about 260rwkw then after tune without any other modifications 380rwkw. I'd say gt would be about 280rwkw at most. Take note that once tuned the gs/gt are identical power. exhaust, pulley, water injection

limiter bashing probably isn't the best idea for a stock motor with stock oil pump, probably best to keep the engine below 7000rpm as well

I can see how this is loading the drivetrain, the hand brake is stopping car from moving forward while the clutch is slightly slipping, so on complete engagement of clutch and release of hand brake there is reduced shock on the complete drivetrain. I can't see how this is much different to leaving the car stationary and dropping the clutch. Can someone confirm which is the proper method of loading up the drivetrain?

There are two factory sensors one is for the actual factory gauge in the dash which pretty much has a cold medium and hot. The one I'm referring to is the one connecting to the ecu. My aftermarket sensor is sitting in the upper radiator pipe and is reading a lot hotter which doesn't make sense.

Hi just curious what sort of values you guys are getting with aftermarket water temperature gauges, just fitted mine and there is a huge variance compared to the factory sensor/power fc. Could you let me know 1.what gauge have you fitted 2.where is the sensor located 3.what temperature range it reaches normal driving Cheers Pat

I was reading your build thread just the other day which is very impressive by the way , and noticed you mentioning something about using the 300zx pulley to speed up the pump. Well i used to own a z32 300zx and when fitting an underdrive crank pulley, it was a good idea to fit an overdrive waterpump pulley to keep the waterpump operating at the correct speed. If your trying to speed up your pump this might be an easy solution. Clicky

was the quater mile and powercruise done on micky thompsons?