jmac

Yeah 34's have the rear wiper on the left stalk like 33's. I'm voting for it engaging the nanotechnology bearings in the hyperdrive fission reactors.

I've been wondering about this one too. My theory is that it heats up the washer fluid. But that's just a theory.....

Anyone know how to adjust the R34 headlights after they've been complianced and had the HID bulbs taken out of them? I'm assuming it's a simple screw adjustment but where? Maybe these don't work once the compliance places have finished stuffing around? I've tried the obvious one sitting to the outside of the headlight moulding just before the front fender starts (clearly visible in the photos), with no effect. My low-beams are aimed too low which makes driving on a dark night a little dodgy. I'm attached some photos from above and one of the inside of the driver's side low-beam. Any help much appreciated thanks!!!

*hangs head in shame* It was before I knew better, I swear!!!!

Don't bag it out too much guys - I've been on a boostlosing cruise *cough* and the behaviour today vs what I saw on that cruise is worlds apart. The odd skid or two and people banging it off the limiter as they leave is NOTHING (not that I'm condoning it). On the aforementioned cruise I saw several GTSt's with GT-R badges on them (a heinous crime in its own right), and absolutely outrageous behaviour such as blocking all 4 lanes of the M1 and slowing traffic down to 60km/h on a busy Sunday morning so two guys could race. I saw this happen at least 4-5 times. A large group of cars also suddenly pulled over onto the shoulder of the M1 in a 100km/h zone (illegal) then when it came time to take off were just pulling out near-suicidally into the traffic. I had my girlfriend in the car and I both was concerned for our safety (more concerned than I usually am sharing the roads with the general Commodore-Hilux-truck-driving public) and embarrassed to be associated with such anti-social behaviour. I saw several members of the public abuse people on the cruise - deservedly. On arrival at the cruise destination several guys initiated an impromptu hi-fi "sound off" (my subwoofer is bigger than your ego etc.) too. There were no activities or BBQ organised so everyone stood around in the hot sun until they got bored and left. That said, there WERE some great cars there and I met a few nice people, but what we had today was fantastic in comparison. So let's focus on the positives here, we have a great club, it was an awesome day, no-one did figure-8's and showered people with gravel and dickhead driving during the cruise was kept to a minimum. /end rant!!!

Had a great day guys and thanks to all organisers. Didn't see any of the burnouts/skids in question but heard the odd rev limiter.... Anyway here are some pics, nowhere near everyone's car and you can probably tell I like 34's.... I have highres versions if anyone wants one. Cheers! [attachmen =70005:attachment][att chment=70008:attachment][attachme t=70019:attachment]

The 34 seems to have survived, bless its little black butt. Tough motors those RBs... Got the dodgy bore water flushed out of there today. No obvious damage done except for stinky burnt coolant smell everywhere still. A little disappointed with my lap times but given the temp I guess I'm pretty happy - nearly beat my PB on the Sprint track which I was happy with. And winning the Time Attack was a bonus lol.... Car seemed to be about 5 km/h down on top speed compared to the cooler weather, plus my tyres are ROOTED. The brakes held up well which I'm very happy about - doing the slotted rotors/braided lines upgrade is a worthwhile exercise, people. Thanks to AzzurrA and Col for the pics so far too.

Great day again Paul. I'm stuffed. But the car survived, despite the attempts of my crappy factory intercooler AND radiator hoses. SIDE POINT: if anyone has photos of my car shooting flames (those in the morning session will know what I mean) then please PM them or point me to where I can get 'em. That's number 13 for ya.... edit: Willo that sucks man. I'd be happy to chip in for the hitman if you find the dudes that did it, scum like that need their hands chopped off or something. >

Hey dude that was me! Just been for a cruise up/down Glorious/Nebo with the woman. Yeah I was being harassed by a dude in a white VL for a while - gave you the thumbs up though! RB20E FTW!!!! Pulled in behind that police car near the ICB however... don't need that after such a nice drive. (never been asked to "pop the bonnet sir")

Turbo: I would go for the high-flow option. There is a heap of info on here about the results people have got with these. Personally I had mine done by MTQ in Brisbane, no stuffing about with flanges etc but did need custom lines to clear a bolt. Similar to the GCG one I believe. Set me back a bit less than $2K from memory. Clutch: Can't speak for the Exedy ones. I have a Jim Berry/RaceClutch 5-puck "carbotics" clutch and it's very bitey, annoying and noisy in a traffic jam but great on the track or open road driving. Injectors: Nismo 480CCs bolted in fine but I have read the bigger Sards for the Z33 fit now too in the Neos. AFM: Z32 meter from a wreckers worked fine after we worked out the wiring! Boost control: What are you using for this? Bleed valves suck, tried one and it was ok but a bit variable and did spike. In the end I just used the boost control kit for the PowerFC and got a good result, nice flat boost curve. On the radiator issue, I was getting high temps on the track after about 5 laps but things improved heaps with a proper radiator flush (i.e. take it out of car, send it away etc) and use of Redline Wetter Water or whatever it's called. Don't know how it'll go on Tuesday in the 35 degree Ipswich heat though.... I did have some miss and traced it to one coil - did the Araldite trick and moved it from no. 6 to no.1 cylinder and no problems since - left the coil cover off. Complete reliability (TOUCH WOOD) except for a water pump that needed replacing and the usual power steering leaks.

Last track day I used a full tank plus about 30L. But I'm a leadfoot and have a few mods. SuperCrap Auto have 20L jerry cans for about $25-$30...

Hi Paul, that mate of mine Simon with the Evo can't make the afternoon so it's up for grabs!

Try GMR at Fairfield, their details are here. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=130753 John opens late, usually 10-11am and is often there until 9-10pm most weeknights. He's done most of the mechanical work on my car.

Count me, the lady, and the 34 in.

hey matt, you're more than welcome! come over and say hi.

I saw nF (minus flame-throwing side-pipe) today on Ridge St, Greenslopes, think you saw me too dude.

I say just keep the class system simple. The whole point SHOULD be just getting out there and having fun. The more you focus on classes, rules, restrictions etc the less fun the whole exercise becomes. For me the thrill is more about beating my own times, setting consistent times, experimenting with lines, braking points etc and pushing my limited abilities and my car as hard as I want whilst remaining safe doing so. I say if someone rocks up in a fully stripped race car on the back of a trailer on slicks with twin jet engines and heat-seeking stinger missiles, that's AWESOME, good luck, and can I have a passenger ride?.... but maybe don't ask to be put in with the group of Skyline guys doing dodgy stuff but having a sh1tload of fun!!!!

R34 GT-T. Bought Feb 05. Stock everything. Pedal mushy. Brake performance pretty average. March 05: upgrade to Endless EuroX front, NA-R rear pads, Endless RBF650 fluid. Pedal still mushy initially, but great bite once brakes warm. No fade at several track days. July 06: Endless pads rooted, last-minute change to Bendix Heavy Duty pads. Pedal and performance worse, pads dusty, brakes fading after 2 laps of QR. August 06: Custom master cylinder stopper brace. Pedal still initially mushy but better brake performance during a hard stop. No noticeable difference during "normal" driving. September 06: Upgrade to DBA 4000 slotted rotors front, RDA slotteds rear, QFM A1RM kevlar pads, braided lines, Motul Factory Line fluid. Pedal initial feel/bite much improved (VERY noticeably) but not as "solid" as some other cars (not Skylines). Brake performance fantastic. Can't comment on racetrack fade yet. My guess is that the braided lines + fluid bleed were responsible for fixing the pedal feel.

I've heard a couple of guys now say that the problem with the EBCs is that they're inconsistent - if you get a "good batch" they're great but the quality is very variable.

I have used Endless EuroX (the closest thing these days would be CC-X) and they were great but needed to get heat into them to work really well. Stood up to 5 laps of QR brilliantly. Bendix Heavy Dutys were crap, and dusty. A friend who does lots of hillclimbs and has held the record at Mt Cotton reckons the Ferodo 2500s are good. I'm using QFM pads at the moment. For the price (1/3 of the Endless prices I was looking at) they're good. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=136212 Got them through John at GMR Fairfield (3844 2855).

H.I.C.A.S. = Help I Can't Actually Steer! It was one of the first things I got rid of on my R34, you'd turn in and a moment later the arse would sorta feel like it "fell over". I found it very unnerving. Throwing the Sydneykid Whiteline kit in and getting rid of the HICAS was one of the best things I did. There is a thread on here about installing GTRGeoff's lock bar, and there was also an article in High Performance Imports magazine a while ago about removing the hydraulic system from R32s.

Update for everyone. Been driving on these for a week now. Dust is minimal. Better than my old Bendix Heavy Dutys, similar to old Endless EuroX. Pic attached is after 500km of city driving. The wheels were not sparkling clean to begin with - as you can see the dust is minimal. Noise - mild "grinding" noise when cold at very low speeds and pedal pressures. Otherwise no taxi-like squeal. Sometimes a bit of "groaning" as you're coming to a stop down thru 60kmh but this may be due to the rotors. Pedal feel is very good. Certainly the best I've experienced in my current car. Much easier to modulate the brakes and pedal effort is less, though it would be hard to say how much of this is due to the pads and how much is due to getting the fluid bled. My feeling is that I probably had a little air in the system before. Performance is good from cold, MUCH better than my previous Endless which definitely had a need to get some heat into them (one hard stop was enough) to work well. I haven't given these a massive thrashing on the road because I don't drive like that on the road as a rule, but with heat they only improve. Certainly haven't got them to fade, which was very easy for me to do with the Bendix HDs. I'm impressed so far, but I won't be that impressed if the pedal goes long after a lap at QR...

Never heard of this before! Care to elaborate a little? ('scuse the iggorance)

I also use some octane booster. This is possibly controversial in some quarters but for me it worked great, got rid of my knock values on the PFC entirely (never see one over about 24 now). I use Nulon Pro Strength Octane Booster at the recommended strength (one bottle/tank). You can get it at any Supercheap or Repco, about $21 a bottle. Also my car CHEWS fuel like you wouldn't believe. Last track day I did probably 90% of the sessions (missed the Sportsman sessions due to failed HICAS lock bar) and got through a full tank of fuel (65L) and almost all of the extra fuel I brought with me (40L). So I'd recommend picking up a couple of the larger 20L jerry cans, stick a little octane booster in 'em, fill em up and stick em in the back seat so you're not having to do a dash to the nearest servo with 98 octane half-way through the day. Those with factory tunes might not use QUITE so much fuel though, lol. Another good tip for getting my water temps under control was simply to send the radiator away to get reconditioned. Costs about $100. My car's only a '98 but the rad was pretty full of crap and now I only start to see the needle get past half-way on lap 5, whereas before I had to back off on lap 3 for a cool-down. I'm also using Redline Wetter Water which seemed to help too.

IMO it's a stuffup, R34 GT-T front discs are 310mm, no such thing as an R34 GTST, AFAIK (although every second ignorant moron calls them that anyway).