MYGTST

most proper battery retailers should have them. in nsw i get them from battery world just lookup your yellow pages cost was about $400 but well worth it iv got 2 amps hooked imto my setup about 1300w worth and my dash lights never dim even with all headlights and tail lights on.

the timing retard happens when the ecu senses higher knock values which is at the engines peak tourque about 4500rpm-5500rpm the afm voltage may not have yet reached the fuel cut limit i noticed this went away after i put in a bigger turbo as the air charge was cooler and it didnt knock anymore at the same boost level as the standard turbo you can stop thisfrom happening by trurning your timing back a degree or two with the cas (side effect a bit less power) but much safer then detonation

im not keen on handing out cct diagrams as i spent a lot of time developing this cct and fine tuning it to be better than the brand name ones which still fuel cut every now and again. but i will make them and sell them to whomever wants on just let me know it costs me about $65 in components im asking for $80 ea for them. i think that its a reasonable price for my time ill also give wiring and setup instructions( or do it for you ) i currently have on setup in my car so if you want a demo let me know

sold

guys the best battery i have encountered are the optima yellow top batteries they shit all over the oddysey for stereo use and no cap required the dump huge amounts of current but more impatrant is theyr AH rate is more than double the nearest oddesey equivalent eg optima yellowtop CCA 950A AH 95 oddysey 1200 CCA 1200A AH 40 this basicaly means that the optima has more than double the storage capacity of the oddyssey. an amp which produces 1000w rms draws approx 170A from a 12V source the oddesey will last about 15 minuites at this rate with the car off your altenator in a skyline produces 95A and thats above 2000RPM at idle its only about 30A - 40A you do the math as to which is the better battery NOTE : the standard skyline battery is rated at 45AH

the fuel cut happens when the computer reads 4.5v or higher from the afm usualy around 1 bar on the standard turbo you can over ride thif function in 3 ways method 1 : lower your boost pros : no more fuel cut and cheap cons : lower boost ?? not an option method 2 : fuel cut defender. this unit tricks the computer into thinking the afm never rises abve a preset limit usualy between 4.3 to 4.45v (user adjustable) pros :cheap $100 -$300, easy install cons : will lean out your engine if not set up properly, limmited use will only allow up to 4 or 5 more psi dependig on your fuel system method 3 : new ecu pros: yeah baby i can do anything now cons: $$$$$$$$$$$$ currently i am usinf a fuel cut defender untill i can afford an ecu but it works well for me and i have a larger turbo than stock and am running about 14 psi(the fuel cut would come on at about 8 psi with new turbo as it moves so much more air through the afm) works well for now and i made the fcd myself if anyone wants one let me know or pm me

my mechanic said to use carby cleaner worked great on mi afm he does heaps of skylines

what event would we most like to hold in FEB 2003 a date and time will be set after results have been added up poll will close on the 12 jan 2003

sounds like AFM but before you dump it try sparing it with carby cleaner its safe and it will get any gunk of the wire the afm is a self cleaning unit but it still sometimes gets contaminated removing the mesh makes no diff its there to stop lage particles entering the afm from either side hope this helps

i know this should be in for sale section but its only relavent to NSW 2 tickets for sale $65 ea sell together(normal price $80) reason for selling : my eyes arent good enough to see from the seats seating is section 29A i was hoping to be a little closer but didnt have the money to get front of house seats so i took a risk ( BUGGER ) MARCIN EDIT : DATE 14 feb TIME 8:00 pm entertainment centre

so is it bk or maccas ?? ill be there tonight

in any serious sretu i wouldnt go past and OPTIMA yellowtop deep cycle battery 950CCA 95A regular cycle and its a 95AH cell where as the highest oddesey has to offer is a 65ah cell and the standard battery in skilines id a 45ah cell if doing a big install the ah rating is more iportant than the CCA and a high regular cycle can only help things along dont forget a 100w RMS X2 amp will draw about 300W - 400W from your battery which works out to be about 30 A im running 600w worth of amp and it draws almost 1000w from my electrical system im using and optima yellow top and i get no dimming of the lights with all healights on bottom line is the bigger the battery the better

ICQ: 25986001 MSN: NONE

anyone here tried the link plug in ecu ?? how was that on economy ?

hey akira where did you get the auto box strengthened and how much did it cost to do i need mine to shift harder and im looking into a higher stall

give me a ring 0414 837 902 where are you ? thanks martin

need one must have now now dammit NOW !!!

iv got a red R30 sedan aswell if you need i also have the complete service manual for it my lil bro drives the R30 i drive the R33 the R30 has now done over 250,000 kms on its original engine and still not blowing any smoke gotta love the L24E engine

im using iridiums they rock !!! i also got bigger turbo si i use tem rating 5 ans gap at 0.7mm no more mising or pinging

gday ive got an R33 S1 gtst auto i find that on the track the only pads i can use that dont fade are kentek metal, although the down side to these is they chew the discks a bit and they squeal a lot when the dust builds up. apparently the gtst has a lot of squeal issues with brakes. on the up side these pads stop realy well !! i have asked around for which discs are best suited to track use without breaking the budget , and have been told the standard solid items are best i have been also told on a large number of occasions to steer clear of the dba slotted or dirlled rotors if using for track because they apparently warp much easier than standard units i would be interested to see what else is available or recommended as my rotors are due for replacement in about 4 weeks im already on minimum thickness.and i would like to replace them with someting better than standard. send me an email if you want more infor on the punishment my brakes receive [email protected] glad to help Martin

about time you showed up mr rice

i am manufacturing a number of fuel cut defenders these units a modeled on the microtech unit with a couple of improvements to make them respond better than the microtech the FCD is advustable and suits any car with an AFM I will preset the adjustments to suit skyline models but they are adjustable to suit any car I give warranty with all units price $100 Martin any questions please feel free to ask

i uses kentek metal pads they squeal like a pig and are hard on rotors but i have never had them fade on me and the last set i had lasted 3 days at wakefield (150km per day on track) and 20000ks normal driving they need a little more pedal pressure but i havent had them fade yet cost about 180 - 200 a set

i use one all the time now im also beginning a manufacturing rut to make my own at a much cheaper price ill keep you posted after installing the gtr cooler the fuel cut would come on when the turbo was spooling up when running about 10 psi now it dosent cut out and i get much smoother acceleration

im selling my 3" cat replacement pipe for those who want the power or who want that little extra for race days